Date   
Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

Hummmmmmmmmmm, still trying to figure out that one. I thought someone was going to do a lazar run kit and sell them. Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 17, 2020 1:43 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Remember too, they're worth what you paid for them.  :o)

Bill


On 3/17/20 11:31 AM, Climax@... wrote:
By george, I think you have it. When I can I order one and possibly two!
Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 17, 2020 12:05 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al
and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now
part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is
provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet
the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are
up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really
like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at
https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg



Re: glum days

Robert Veefkind
 



In a message dated 3/17/2020 10:15:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, ihtsbih_2014@... writes:

Bob,


Im 32, and just starting in the Hon3 hobby.  I would love to see photos of your Silverton Northern models.  My railroad is the Silverton, Lake City and Northern and you can find photos of it on Facebook under that name.  I might start a website soon.

Andrew
the layout was featured in the Gazette sept/oct  2002 and a few issues of the now defunct Light Iron Digest. Motive power will be a project if you want to be strictly prototype. The nearest I can think of is the Westside c-25 # 375 which resembles SN # 34. Some believe the c-18s can be changed to favor # 3 and # 4     lots of work. If I can find photos write to me   snookdust@... as I don't want to clog up this group with photos    thanks for your interest      Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

Remember too, they're worth what you paid for them.  :o)

Bill

On 3/17/20 11:31 AM, Climax@... wrote:
By george, I think you have it. When I can I order one and possibly two!
Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 17, 2020 12:05 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al
and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now
part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is
provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet
the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are
up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really
like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at
https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg


Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

I provide the drawings, you provide the materials and skills. ;o)

Bill

On 3/17/20 11:31 AM, Climax@... wrote:
By george, I think you have it. When I can I order one and possibly two!
Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 17, 2020 12:05 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al
and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now
part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is
provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet
the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are
up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really
like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at
https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg


Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

By george, I think you have it. When I can I order one and possibly two!
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 17, 2020 12:05 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al
and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now
part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is
provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet
the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are
up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really
like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at
https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg


Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

rick@...
 

Bill,

Like the new design.

Some thoughts:

You can probably set the drawers with only 1/16" clear below. That can deepen the drawer or shorten the sides.

Sometimes it is good to have a stop that can be flipped at the back of the drawer to keep the drawer from falling out when reaching for something in the backmost space. Flip the stop to remove the drawer and carry it to another area.

Alternate rabbets into the drawer sides can be deeper, up to 1/2 the width of the sides if you want. Pinned and glued version should be plenty strong though. Just glued is really enough. I use Titebond II for my furniture glueups.

I like Al's wood screw knobs. I'd offset each drawer pull 1" left/right so they are staggered. Maybe epoxy on a metal standard HO car wheel to the front of the screw. Another possibility is to use a 3d printer to make some custom ones.

I noticed in Al's photos that the spacers look like they are in slots at the ends so each spacer could be taken out. Allows a bit of flexibility if you want to use the drawer for sheet siding, etc.. If the design goes to a square format, a liner both directions with the slots in it allows the spacers to be oriented front/back or side/side per drawer as the modeler wishes.

Rick

Re: glum days

Andrew P
 

Bob,

Im 32, and just starting in the Hon3 hobby.  I would love to see photos of your Silverton Northern models.  My railroad is the Silverton, Lake City and Northern and you can find photos of it on Facebook under that name.  I might start a website soon.

Andrew

Re: glum days

kevin b
 

I missed the first convention in St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.
Bob Veefkind

I would like to suggest that you who have likely worked all your life and provided for your family the whole time etc.,
run your trains to your hearts content and let the folks who survive you do what they wish with their inheritance.
that is, of course, assuming you have left them, at least your spouse? financially able to continue without you.
on the other hand, if you have all the families wealth tied up in trains, then, perhaps, you should sell them.
I take it you're not going to sell your car now and walk till you die? and the lawn mower and your clothes and so on?
my 2 cents worth and the way i'm gonna do it.
thanks.
Kevin.

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg

Re: glum days

Climax@...
 

Good thoughts Robert.  
We, those over 70, all have the same thoughts as we probably still have our first Brass locomotive among many others, or a stack of yellow boxes from FSM or other such places.  My first brass locomotive was a PFM 2-8-0 Old Time MA&PA #23-26, that I purchased at Schlickers Tobacco & Hobby Shop in Elgin Illinois.  I paid $34.95 for it in 1964 and my parents thought I had completely lost my mind.  Over the years I communicated with Don Drew at PFM and asked many questions and got may parts.  I also accumulated more and more brass locomotives.  Shortly, within a year of his passing, I visited him in Edmonds Washington and saw what was once the PFM empire, his PFM layout, the repair areas, books,and his wonderful collection of brass locomotives.  I noted the Vulcan Duplex in that I had one of them, and he said that his was actually the second run.  Seems that some former employee came in and took several pieces of brass including the first year run.  If you look at them you will see one with cab window open and the other closed.  Shortly after that Don attached "PFM Collection NO. xxx" small brass attachments to the bottom of the locomotives.  I told him about my first PFM model and he reached under the cases of brass and brought out the Nickle Plated one that was used in the catalogue.  When asked why he said Nickle photographed better,  In any case he offered it to me and I purchased it.  It sits next to my original now.  I also was able to get a Abberthy-Lougheed Climax that PFM never imported but was the sample locomotive plus the blue print for it.  
Now getting back after wandering off my original discussion.  Perhaps this virus scare is actually a blessing as it will get us back to that stack of stuff we have accumulated and never built or fixing something we have put off for so long,.  I just got done building two 4 story warehouses that are 25 inches long each (they are flats), one for me and one for a buddy in TN.  It was fun to get glue on my hands once again, and of course draw blood from a carelessly placed xacto knife. hahahhaa  In other words, this gives us an excuse to sit down and enjoy the hobby once again as the world comes to a screeching halt about us.  Enjoy your self and the hobby and mostly have fun.  Stay safe and avoid other people, use anti bacterial hands gel not only on your hands but your face if you go out in public.  Call me over cautions but I even take a shower when I come home and change clothes.  Who knows how has it, how you get it, or when.  I'm just going to be over cautions until we find out more.  I have too much to build to check out anytime soon.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: "Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io"
Sent: Mar 16, 2020 7:56 PM
To: hon3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] glum days

I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

My Kappler Lumber Yard has 1/2" wood screws centered between the sides (approximately 12.5" from the ends.

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Dusty <Dustburm@q.com>
Date: 3/16/20 3:24 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back. Not especially slick but doable.

Dusty Burman 

Re: glum days

Lee Gustafson
 

Bob,

The hobby is an escape from the real world for me and I hope for you and others. Your scratch built Silverton Northern locomotives were an inspiration to me. Enjoy your models, the skills and memories. You never know how you and the hobby have touched other lives.

Lee 


On Mar 16, 2020, at 6:56 PM, Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io <snookdust@...> wrote:


I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

rick@...
 

Got me thinking there ought to be something 'railroady' in our parts collections that can make neat drawer pulls. Maybe an old driver wheel with a spacer, or...

Rick
I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back.

glum days

Robert Veefkind
 

I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Dusty
 

I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back. Not especially slick but doable.

Dusty Burman 

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

ANSWERS AND COMMETS WITHIN YOUR TEXT.

Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage slots in the cabinet sides.    THAT IS CORRECT.     I think I like that approach better as the slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material depending upon tool availability. 

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal life again. OUR FAMILY OWNS A BAR/RESTAURANT AND I AM ONE OF THE PROFESSIONALS AT A LOCAL COUNTRY CLUB.  OUR "GREAT" GOVERNOR HAD REQUESTED,  BUT NOT MANDATED, THAT ALL BARS, NIGHTCLUBS AND PUBS BE CLOSED. HE ALSO SAID TO LIMIT DINERS TO HALF CAPACITY, IN ORDER TO SPREAD THE CUSTOMERS AT LEAST SIX FEET APART IN THE DINING ROOM.

HE ALSO SAUD THAT THOSE OVER 65 SHOULD SELF QUARANTINE AT HOME.  EASY FOR HIM TO SAY. STILL WORKING AT 72.

AL

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone




Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your
description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage
slots in the cabinet sides.  I think I like that approach better as the
slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued
as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut
with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material
depending upon tool availability.

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing
with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this
will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal
life again.

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 1:41 PM, asandrini wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in
> our bar/restaurant and at the golf course.
>
> I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The
> bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems
> to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The
> material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is
> solid with no corrugation.
>
> The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from
> poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated
> with a 1/16" veneer.
>
> The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of
> lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8"
> lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.
>
> The rear is the same as the sides.
>
> There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
> The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space
> between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the
> separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The
> bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could
> fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
> How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer
> with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has
> even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.
>
> It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass
> wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all
> the wood was stained  mahogany color.
>
> Al
>
>
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
> Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: HOn3@groups.io
> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>
> Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
> I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
> hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.
>
> A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
> and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel. I
> don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
> clearance between the drawers is a must too.
>
> I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
> the folder.
>
> Thanks for the input.
> Bill Lugg
>
>
> On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
> > Bill,
> >
> > If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
> > in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
> > What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
> > assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
> > work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
> > drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
> > you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
> > horizontally at the drawer.
> >
> > I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
> > surfaces of the slides before you install them.
> >
> > If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
> > of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
> >
> > Rick
> >> One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
> >> concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
> >> be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
> >> respect.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage slots in the cabinet sides.  I think I like that approach better as the slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material depending upon tool availability.

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal life again.

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg

On 3/16/20 1:41 PM, asandrini wrote:
Bill,

I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in our bar/restaurant and at the golf course.

I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is solid with no corrugation.

The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated with a 1/16" veneer.

The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8" lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.

The rear is the same as the sides.

There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.

It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all the wood was stained  mahogany color.

Al


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel. I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
respect.




Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

Bill,

I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in our bar/restaurant and at the golf course. 

I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is solid with no corrugation.

The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated with a 1/16" veneer.

The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8" lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.

The rear is the same as the sides.

There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.

It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all the wood was stained  mahogany color.

Al


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
> Bill,
>
> If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
> in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
> What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
> assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
> work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
> drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
> you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
> horizontally at the drawer.
>
> I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
> surfaces of the slides before you install them.
>
> If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
> of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
>
> Rick
>> One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
>> concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
>> be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
>> respect.
>
>
>
>



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

Bill:
Concerning the knobs or handles, you can leave the installation of knobs/handles up to the individual. Personally I would think that a finger hole may be in order as an idea. Then the drawer would be flat on the front and not catch on anything. The wood parts would not come out the finger holes either. You could offer that with an incomplete lazar cut finger hold to keep the piece in place, and if a person doesn't want a finger hole but a knob, just move the finger hole to the back side of the drawer, not remove the lazar cut piece and the good back piece to the front to install a knob on. Just an idea, Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 16, 2020 1:52 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
respect.



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 
Edited

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard, I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbet for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg

On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers. What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this respect.