Date   
Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

OK, I've updated the design incorporating the information provided by Al and the great suggestions by Rick, Dave and others.  The slides are now part of the drawers and run in grooves in the sides. Clearance is provided all around and an alternative treatment is offered to rabbet the slides into the sides of the drawers for added strength.  Knobs are up to the builder; the one I've specified will work, but I don't really like it, it's too big.  Dusty and Rick had some good ideas as alternatives.

Everything has been updated at https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet.

Let me know if there's anything else you'd like to add or change.

Bill Lugg

Re: glum days

Climax@...
 

Good thoughts Robert.  
We, those over 70, all have the same thoughts as we probably still have our first Brass locomotive among many others, or a stack of yellow boxes from FSM or other such places.  My first brass locomotive was a PFM 2-8-0 Old Time MA&PA #23-26, that I purchased at Schlickers Tobacco & Hobby Shop in Elgin Illinois.  I paid $34.95 for it in 1964 and my parents thought I had completely lost my mind.  Over the years I communicated with Don Drew at PFM and asked many questions and got may parts.  I also accumulated more and more brass locomotives.  Shortly, within a year of his passing, I visited him in Edmonds Washington and saw what was once the PFM empire, his PFM layout, the repair areas, books,and his wonderful collection of brass locomotives.  I noted the Vulcan Duplex in that I had one of them, and he said that his was actually the second run.  Seems that some former employee came in and took several pieces of brass including the first year run.  If you look at them you will see one with cab window open and the other closed.  Shortly after that Don attached "PFM Collection NO. xxx" small brass attachments to the bottom of the locomotives.  I told him about my first PFM model and he reached under the cases of brass and brought out the Nickle Plated one that was used in the catalogue.  When asked why he said Nickle photographed better,  In any case he offered it to me and I purchased it.  It sits next to my original now.  I also was able to get a Abberthy-Lougheed Climax that PFM never imported but was the sample locomotive plus the blue print for it.  
Now getting back after wandering off my original discussion.  Perhaps this virus scare is actually a blessing as it will get us back to that stack of stuff we have accumulated and never built or fixing something we have put off for so long,.  I just got done building two 4 story warehouses that are 25 inches long each (they are flats), one for me and one for a buddy in TN.  It was fun to get glue on my hands once again, and of course draw blood from a carelessly placed xacto knife. hahahhaa  In other words, this gives us an excuse to sit down and enjoy the hobby once again as the world comes to a screeching halt about us.  Enjoy your self and the hobby and mostly have fun.  Stay safe and avoid other people, use anti bacterial hands gel not only on your hands but your face if you go out in public.  Call me over cautions but I even take a shower when I come home and change clothes.  Who knows how has it, how you get it, or when.  I'm just going to be over cautions until we find out more.  I have too much to build to check out anytime soon.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: "Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io"
Sent: Mar 16, 2020 7:56 PM
To: hon3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] glum days

I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

My Kappler Lumber Yard has 1/2" wood screws centered between the sides (approximately 12.5" from the ends.

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Dusty <Dustburm@q.com>
Date: 3/16/20 3:24 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back. Not especially slick but doable.

Dusty Burman 

Re: glum days

Lee Gustafson
 

Bob,

The hobby is an escape from the real world for me and I hope for you and others. Your scratch built Silverton Northern locomotives were an inspiration to me. Enjoy your models, the skills and memories. You never know how you and the hobby have touched other lives.

Lee 


On Mar 16, 2020, at 6:56 PM, Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io <snookdust@...> wrote:


I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

rick@...
 

Got me thinking there ought to be something 'railroady' in our parts collections that can make neat drawer pulls. Maybe an old driver wheel with a spacer, or...

Rick
I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back.

glum days

Robert Veefkind
 

I missed the first convention in  St. Louis but got most every one after that until 10 years ago. It is  sad fact many of us are over 80 and children and grandchildren are not interested in our hobby. I am frustrated whether to sell my brass collection to get the most money out of it for them or say the hell with it and just enjoy what I have. The virus has a lot of us semi confined but at least I have my hobby.The only bugs in my collection are electrical.

Bob Veefkind

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Dusty
 

I was thinking about inexpensive drawer pulls. I have used knurled nuts (6-32?) on replacement parts drawers. I was also thinking about wooden craft store beads glued to dowels or those flatter round headed screws with a tee nut on the back. Not especially slick but doable.

Dusty Burman 

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

ANSWERS AND COMMETS WITHIN YOUR TEXT.

Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage slots in the cabinet sides.    THAT IS CORRECT.     I think I like that approach better as the slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material depending upon tool availability. 

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal life again. OUR FAMILY OWNS A BAR/RESTAURANT AND I AM ONE OF THE PROFESSIONALS AT A LOCAL COUNTRY CLUB.  OUR "GREAT" GOVERNOR HAD REQUESTED,  BUT NOT MANDATED, THAT ALL BARS, NIGHTCLUBS AND PUBS BE CLOSED. HE ALSO SAID TO LIMIT DINERS TO HALF CAPACITY, IN ORDER TO SPREAD THE CUSTOMERS AT LEAST SIX FEET APART IN THE DINING ROOM.

HE ALSO SAUD THAT THOSE OVER 65 SHOULD SELF QUARANTINE AT HOME.  EASY FOR HIM TO SAY. STILL WORKING AT 72.

AL

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone




Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your
description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage
slots in the cabinet sides.  I think I like that approach better as the
slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued
as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut
with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material
depending upon tool availability.

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing
with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this
will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal
life again.

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 1:41 PM, asandrini wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in
> our bar/restaurant and at the golf course.
>
> I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The
> bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems
> to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The
> material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is
> solid with no corrugation.
>
> The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from
> poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated
> with a 1/16" veneer.
>
> The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of
> lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8"
> lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.
>
> The rear is the same as the sides.
>
> There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
> The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space
> between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the
> separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The
> bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could
> fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
> How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer
> with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has
> even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.
>
> It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass
> wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all
> the wood was stained  mahogany color.
>
> Al
>
>
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
> Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: HOn3@groups.io
> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>
> Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
> I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
> hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.
>
> A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
> and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel. I
> don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
> clearance between the drawers is a must too.
>
> I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
> the folder.
>
> Thanks for the input.
> Bill Lugg
>
>
> On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
> > Bill,
> >
> > If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
> > in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
> > What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
> > assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
> > work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
> > drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
> > you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
> > horizontally at the drawer.
> >
> > I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
> > surfaces of the slides before you install them.
> >
> > If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
> > of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
> >
> > Rick
> >> One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
> >> concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
> >> be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
> >> respect.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

Thanks, Al.

These will help a lot.  So if I understand the photos and your description correctly, the slides are actually on the drawers and engage slots in the cabinet sides.  I think I like that approach better as the slide can be placed in the center of the drawer side, pinned and glued as previously suggested and the slots in the sides can either be cut with a dado blade into the sides or built up from layers of material depending upon tool availability.

I can't imagine what you're going through right now in regard to dealing with your bar/restaurant and restaurant and golf course.  I pray this will all be over soon so we can get back to some semblance of a normal life again.

In the meantime, stay well.

Bill Lugg

On 3/16/20 1:41 PM, asandrini wrote:
Bill,

I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in our bar/restaurant and at the golf course.

I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is solid with no corrugation.

The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated with a 1/16" veneer.

The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8" lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.

The rear is the same as the sides.

There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.

It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all the wood was stained  mahogany color.

Al


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel. I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
respect.




Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

asandrini
 

Bill,

I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in our bar/restaurant and at the golf course. 

I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is solid with no corrugation.

The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated with a 1/16" veneer.

The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8" lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.

The rear is the same as the sides.

There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.

It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all the wood was stained  mahogany color.

Al


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
> Bill,
>
> If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
> in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
> What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
> assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
> work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
> drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
> you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
> horizontally at the drawer.
>
> I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
> surfaces of the slides before you install them.
>
> If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
> of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
>
> Rick
>> One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
>> concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
>> be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
>> respect.
>
>
>
>



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

Bill:
Concerning the knobs or handles, you can leave the installation of knobs/handles up to the individual. Personally I would think that a finger hole may be in order as an idea. Then the drawer would be flat on the front and not catch on anything. The wood parts would not come out the finger holes either. You could offer that with an incomplete lazar cut finger hold to keep the piece in place, and if a person doesn't want a finger hole but a knob, just move the finger hole to the back side of the drawer, not remove the lazar cut piece and the good back piece to the front to install a knob on. Just an idea, Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 16, 2020 1:52 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
respect.



Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 
Edited

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard, I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbet for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg

On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers. What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this respect.

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

rick@...
 

Bill,

If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers. What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show horizontally at the drawer.

I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom surfaces of the slides before you install them.

If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.

Rick

One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this respect.

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

Bill
I agree that the slides are the stumble point and you have drawn what I was thinking and was my concern. About the only way to prevent the "slides" from coming off is by gluing them, then drill and screw them in place from the outside. Maybe a lazar mark to line them up. Other than that it is a guess.
After looking over the cabinet drawings I tend to lean more now with the crosswise loading of the wood. Put the largest or seldom used wood toward the back.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 15, 2020 10:27 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

If you look in
https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet you'll see
an initial cut for a couple of ideas for the cabinet.  The zip file
contains a DXF file that you should be able to open in most CAD
applications.  I've included a Frank Kappler inspired "original" cabinet
that's shallow and wide, allowing the wood to be stored crosswise.  I've
also included a narrow deep cabinet that allows the wood to be stored
front to back (I read and then forgot what Dave said below about having
a square cabinet - the price of getting old - it would be easy enough to
go back and add that option as well).

Understand, I've designed these the way I would build them with the
materials, tools and skills I have in the shop.  I have no experience
with laser cutting and don't know what the capabilities and limitations
are so I'd need a primer on that before I could modify the design for
that construction method.  One thing I'm really not satisfied with are
the drawer slides.  I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break
during use.  It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet
was designed in this respect.

Anyway, this is a first stab.  All thoughts and constructive criticism
is welcome.

Bill Lugg


On 3/12/20 1:36 PM, Climax@... wrote:
Bill:
I am still as strong contender that keeping the box square allowing the dividers to be either across or lenthwise is a great idea. It allows the owner to select his desired wood display by just shifting the dividers which could be locked together as a unit, 90 degrees. The option gives the buyers the option of either way. Strip wood in thicknesses of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 scale inch thicknesses for each drawer would be great. even a drawer for sheet wood, clapboard, board & batton, scribed, could be a bottom drawer as well. I have mine if a long box on edge but flat would be just as good. The drawer if stored vertically would need to be 4 or 6 inches deep. I am not sure what the drawer handles should be, maybe something lazer cut and glued on.
DAve


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:15 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Has any progress been made with drawings of this cabinet?  If not, I
have some time and could take a stab at it from the info and photos I've
received.

Bill Lugg


On 1/25/20 9:26 PM, asandrini wrote:
Sorry, fat fingers hit the sent button and not the attach button.

Photos attached this time.
Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: asandrini <asandrini@...>
Date: 1/25/20 8:23 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io, asandrini@...
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

I have been asked to post a couple of pictures of my Kappler Lumber
Company lumber yard.

Photos attached.

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "kevin b via Groups.Io" <arcatruck13=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 1/25/20 6:01 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler



any chance you'd post a photo or two of that box?
i'd like a shot at making one as my lumber yard is in tubes and
scattered to the winds etc.


I had saved mailing tubes to store the lumber, and labeled the tubes
with the sizes. It was a mess and took up a lot of space. One day
Frank walked into my shop and presented me with 7x8x28 inch, 7 drawer
box. The drawers had dividers to hold HO scale 1x2's through 12x12's,
plus two bottom drawers to hold his siding material.

thanks.
Kevin.

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Bill Lugg
 

If you look in https://groups.io/g/HOn3/files/Stripwood%20Storage%20Cabinet you'll see an initial cut for a couple of ideas for the cabinet.  The zip file contains a DXF file that you should be able to open in most CAD applications.  I've included a Frank Kappler inspired "original" cabinet that's shallow and wide, allowing the wood to be stored crosswise.  I've also included a narrow deep cabinet that allows the wood to be stored front to back (I read and then forgot what Dave said below about having a square cabinet - the price of getting old - it would be easy enough to go back and add that option as well).

Understand, I've designed these the way I would build them with the materials, tools and skills I have in the shop.  I have no experience with laser cutting and don't know what the capabilities and limitations are so I'd need a primer on that before I could modify the design for that construction method.  One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this respect.

Anyway, this is a first stab.  All thoughts and constructive criticism is welcome.

Bill Lugg

On 3/12/20 1:36 PM, Climax@... wrote:
Bill:
I am still as strong contender that keeping the box square allowing the dividers to be either across or lenthwise is a great idea. It allows the owner to select his desired wood display by just shifting the dividers which could be locked together as a unit, 90 degrees. The option gives the buyers the option of either way. Strip wood in thicknesses of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 scale inch thicknesses for each drawer would be great. even a drawer for sheet wood, clapboard, board & batton, scribed, could be a bottom drawer as well. I have mine if a long box on edge but flat would be just as good. The drawer if stored vertically would need to be 4 or 6 inches deep. I am not sure what the drawer handles should be, maybe something lazer cut and glued on.
DAve


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Lugg <@luggw1>
Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:15 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Has any progress been made with drawings of this cabinet?  If not, I
have some time and could take a stab at it from the info and photos I've
received.

Bill Lugg


On 1/25/20 9:26 PM, asandrini wrote:
Sorry, fat fingers hit the sent button and not the attach button.

Photos attached this time.
Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: asandrini <asandrini@...>
Date: 1/25/20 8:23 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io, asandrini@...
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

I have been asked to post a couple of pictures of my Kappler Lumber
Company lumber yard.

Photos attached.

Al



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "kevin b via Groups.Io" <arcatruck13=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 1/25/20 6:01 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler



any chance you'd post a photo or two of that box?
i'd like a shot at making one as my lumber yard is in tubes and
scattered to the winds etc.


I had saved mailing tubes to store the lumber, and labeled the tubes
with the sizes. It was a mess and took up a lot of space. One day
Frank walked into my shop and presented me with 7x8x28 inch, 7 drawer
box. The drawers had dividers to hold HO scale 1x2's through 12x12's,
plus two bottom drawers to hold his siding material.

thanks.
Kevin.

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

Climax@...
 

John, you must not have much wood.  I have the cardstock tubes with metal ends that Northeastern use to ship their wood in back in the 1960's.  I have 30 of them in a box, and on the caps which I painted white, put 1/64, 1/32. 1/8, 3/32. 1/4, 5/32, 1/2, 7/32, 3/4 and 1", then I put Z, L, I, H, Door slide, Hat, car floor, car roof, Car ends, corner, roof walk, 3 dowels, brass wire, ss wire, tubes, miscellaneous.  I also have 8 of the Kappler Kare Boxes of wood, and a drawer full of North Eastern Special shapes, Plastruct styrene, and bamboo.  In addition I have stacks of card stock, sheet wood, and bundles of wood from Mt. Albert I get at the shows. 
Behind me on shelves I put between 2x4 studs in a wall I have perhaps over 300 bottles of floqui paint I still use, some still in the very old square bottles.  I do a lot of scratch building and kit modifications.  I just finished  up two warehouse flats to use against a wall.  I have no idea who made the "kits" which were incomplete but they warehouse is called, Herminson Mills and is about 25 inches long and 3 or 4 stores tall.
In my shop area I keep a lot of brass stock which I cut on my Sherline Mill and Sherline Lathe.  I also use Bandsaws, dremel table saws and sanders.  
What I am saying is that when I need a piece of stock I want to know right where it is, grab it and use it.  I don't like hunting and I feel a case with drawers laying the material flat would be great.  Pulling these vertically stored tubes out and shaking them upside down and trying to select a piece of wood or what ever with a set of pointed tweezers is a pain.  then getting the tubes back in place is another trick much less having to keep the caps on the right tubes.  I wish I had the space I could just hang the bags of wood up but I don't.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: John Stutz
Sent: Mar 14, 2020 6:12 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io, Climax@...
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

My alternative:

A couple 2"x 2"x 24" mailing boxes on end. The wood is in the original polyethylene sleeves, one sleeve per size, each stick labeled with the scale size at the top end. Multiple sizes of one thickness may be rubber banded together, which can help keep hewer 12" stock from collecting at the sleeve's bottom.

Much the same for Evergreen styrene, except the rubber banded sets of sleeves occupy about 6" width of a 10" deep shelf.

For wire, I use 12" lengths of roughly 3/4" lightweight PVC pipe, one end plugged inside about 1/2" deep. Into these go a set of seven roughly 1/4" K&S aluminum tubes, also plugged at one end and labeled for thickness.. These each take a single size of wire, or thickness of rectangular stock.. Small brass tubing and shapes go into a plane PVC tube. Brass and steel in separate tubes. The tubes go lose in a box, again horizontal on a shelf. No order in the box, but it is pretty obvious which is what.

Works for me, while using minimal shop volume.

John Stutz
On March 12, 2020 at 4:17 PM Climax@... wrote:


Vertical storage sounds good until you go to use it. Each tube must be removable to get the shorter pieces out. I use the Very very old, like 60 year old cardboard tubes with metal ends that Northeastern use to send their strip wood out in from the 1960's. I have tubes with the size on the end plus L H,Z, types of special shapes on the tube cap. It kind of helps but the tubes are still a pain when I put caps on the wrong ones. hahhaha I stored it vertically and horizontally and it was a pain either way. I believe that drawers with the wood laying flat is the best solution. Even with Northeastern long wood, it can be cut to fit. We need to think of where would it be stored, mostly on a shelf. In addition we need to keep in mind that people will probably try to stack other things on it so the outside box would need to be stout. Also if they order multiple units and try to stack them together, a form of locking them together would be a good idea such as a wiggle and wiggle tab on either end would suffice. I am taking these ideas off a list I made up to satisfy all customers.


-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>Sent: Mar 12, 2020 4:58 PM
>To: HOn3@groups.io
>Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>
>I see what you mean about getting to material in the back of the
>drawers.  The only problem with orienting in the other direction for
>long wood is the footprint of the cabinet.  Personally, I don't believe
>I'd have the space to accommodate a 26" deep cabinet.
>
>However, I believe I can come up with a design (a couple actually) that
>would satisfy both camps well enough.  Let me see what I can do.
>
>Bill
>
>
>On 3/12/20 2:42 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>> Yes, crosswise with the seemingly prefered way. My only objection to it is the wood stored in the back of the drawer would be hard to get to. That was the only reason for the option of turning it 90 degrees.
>> Maybe an optional drawer add on for the sheet wood flat or vertical storage could be an option as well.
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:38 PM
>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>
>>> No problem, I'll see what I can come up with.  As I recall we all agreed
>>> on a cabinet similar to the original with the wood stored crosswise, right?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill Lugg
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/12/20 1:28 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>>>> I'm sorry Bill, I started it and got side tracked with all the virus stuff and my Masonic Lodge duties. Besides that the NMRA Sunshine Region which I am the President of, is giving me a fit as directors are not doing the jobs they signed on to do.
>>>> I will willingly relinquish the job for now and when I get them done I will still forward them to you for your evaluation. Who knows, yours might even be better than what I was thinking anyway.
>>>> DAve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:15 PM
>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>
>>>>> Has any progress been made with drawings of this cabinet?  If not, I
>>>>> have some time and could take a stab at it from the info and photos I've
>>>>> received.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lugg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 1/25/20 9:26 PM, asandrini wrote:
>>>>>> Sorry, fat fingers hit the sent button and not the attach button.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached this time.
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: asandrini <asandrini@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 8:23 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io, asandrini@...
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have been asked to post a couple of pictures of my Kappler Lumber
>>>>>> Company lumber yard.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: "kevin b via Groups.Io" <arcatruck13@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 6:01 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> any chance you'd post a photo or two of that box?
>>>>>> i'd like a shot at making one as my lumber yard is in tubes and
>>>>>> scattered to the winds etc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I had saved mailing tubes to store the lumber, and labeled the tubes
>>>>>> with the sizes. It was a mess and took up a lot of space. One day
>>>>>> Frank walked into my shop and presented me with 7x8x28 inch, 7 drawer
>>>>>> box. The drawers had dividers to hold HO scale 1x2's through 12x12's,
>>>>>> plus two bottom drawers to hold his siding material.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> thanks.
>>>>>> Kevin.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

David Laverick
 

On Mar 14, 2020, at 5:12 PM, John Stutz <john.stutz@...> wrote:

My alternative:


A couple 2"x 2"x 24" mailing boxes on end. The wood is in the original polyethylene sleeves, one sleeve per size, each stick labeled with the scale size at the top end. Multiple sizes of one thickness may be rubber banded together, which can help keep hewer 12" stock from collecting at the sleeve's bottom.

Much the same for Evergreen styrene, except the rubber banded sets of sleeves occupy about 6" width of a 10" deep shelf.

For wire, I use 12" lengths of roughly 3/4" lightweight PVC pipe, one end plugged inside about 1/2" deep. Into these go a set of seven roughly 1/4" K&S aluminum tubes, also plugged at one end and labeled for thickness.. These each take a single size of wire, or thickness of rectangular stock.. Small brass tubing and shapes go into a plane PVC tube. Brass and steel in separate tubes. The tubes go lose in a box, again horizontal on a shelf. No order in the box, but it is pretty obvious which is what.

Works for me, while using minimal shop volume.

John Stutz
On March 12, 2020 at 4:17 PM Climax@... wrote:


Vertical storage sounds good until you go to use it. Each tube must be removable to get the shorter pieces out. I use the Very very old, like 60 year old cardboard tubes with metal ends that Northeastern use to send their strip wood out in from the 1960's. I have tubes with the size on the end plus L H,Z, types of special shapes on the tube cap. It kind of helps but the tubes are still a pain when I put caps on the wrong ones. hahhaha I stored it vertically and horizontally and it was a pain either way. I believe that drawers with the wood laying flat is the best solution. Even with Northeastern long wood, it can be cut to fit. We need to think of where would it be stored, mostly on a shelf. In addition we need to keep in mind that people will probably try to stack other things on it so the outside box would need to be stout. Also if they order multiple units and try to stack them together, a form of locking them together would be a good idea such as a wiggle and wiggle tab on either end would suffice. I am taking these ideas off a list I made up to satisfy all customers.


-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>Sent: Mar 12, 2020 4:58 PM
>To: HOn3@groups.io
>Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>
>I see what you mean about getting to material in the back of the
>drawers.  The only problem with orienting in the other direction for
>long wood is the footprint of the cabinet.  Personally, I don't believe
>I'd have the space to accommodate a 26" deep cabinet.
>
>However, I believe I can come up with a design (a couple actually) that
>would satisfy both camps well enough.  Let me see what I can do.
>
>Bill
>
>
>On 3/12/20 2:42 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>> Yes, crosswise with the seemingly prefered way. My only objection to it is the wood stored in the back of the drawer would be hard to get to. That was the only reason for the option of turning it 90 degrees.
>> Maybe an optional drawer add on for the sheet wood flat or vertical storage could be an option as well.
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:38 PM
>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>
>>> No problem, I'll see what I can come up with.  As I recall we all agreed
>>> on a cabinet similar to the original with the wood stored crosswise, right?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill Lugg
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/12/20 1:28 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>>>> I'm sorry Bill, I started it and got side tracked with all the virus stuff and my Masonic Lodge duties. Besides that the NMRA Sunshine Region which I am the President of, is giving me a fit as directors are not doing the jobs they signed on to do.
>>>> I will willingly relinquish the job for now and when I get them done I will still forward them to you for your evaluation. Who knows, yours might even be better than what I was thinking anyway.
>>>> DAve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:15 PM
>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>
>>>>> Has any progress been made with drawings of this cabinet?  If not, I
>>>>> have some time and could take a stab at it from the info and photos I've
>>>>> received.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lugg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 1/25/20 9:26 PM, asandrini wrote:
>>>>>> Sorry, fat fingers hit the sent button and not the attach button.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached this time.
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: asandrini <asandrini@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 8:23 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io, asandrini@...
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have been asked to post a couple of pictures of my Kappler Lumber
>>>>>> Company lumber yard.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: "kevin b via Groups.Io" <arcatruck13@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 6:01 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> any chance you'd post a photo or two of that box?
>>>>>> i'd like a shot at making one as my lumber yard is in tubes and
>>>>>> scattered to the winds etc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I had saved mailing tubes to store the lumber, and labeled the tubes
>>>>>> with the sizes. It was a mess and took up a lot of space. One day
>>>>>> Frank walked into my shop and presented me with 7x8x28 inch, 7 drawer
>>>>>> box. The drawers had dividers to hold HO scale 1x2's through 12x12's,
>>>>>> plus two bottom drawers to hold his siding material.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> thanks.
>>>>>> Kevin.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>


Re: Remembering Frank Kappler

John Stutz
 

My alternative:

A couple 2"x 2"x 24" mailing boxes on end. The wood is in the original polyethylene sleeves, one sleeve per size, each stick labeled with the scale size at the top end. Multiple sizes of one thickness may be rubber banded together, which can help keep hewer 12" stock from collecting at the sleeve's bottom.

Much the same for Evergreen styrene, except the rubber banded sets of sleeves occupy about 6" width of a 10" deep shelf.

For wire, I use 12" lengths of roughly 3/4" lightweight PVC pipe, one end plugged inside about 1/2" deep. Into these go a set of seven roughly 1/4" K&S aluminum tubes, also plugged at one end and labeled for thickness.. These each take a single size of wire, or thickness of rectangular stock.. Small brass tubing and shapes go into a plane PVC tube. Brass and steel in separate tubes. The tubes go lose in a box, again horizontal on a shelf. No order in the box, but it is pretty obvious which is what.

Works for me, while using minimal shop volume.

John Stutz

On March 12, 2020 at 4:17 PM Climax@... wrote:


Vertical storage sounds good until you go to use it. Each tube must be removable to get the shorter pieces out. I use the Very very old, like 60 year old cardboard tubes with metal ends that Northeastern use to send their strip wood out in from the 1960's. I have tubes with the size on the end plus L H,Z, types of special shapes on the tube cap. It kind of helps but the tubes are still a pain when I put caps on the wrong ones. hahhaha I stored it vertically and horizontally and it was a pain either way. I believe that drawers with the wood laying flat is the best solution. Even with Northeastern long wood, it can be cut to fit. We need to think of where would it be stored, mostly on a shelf. In addition we need to keep in mind that people will probably try to stack other things on it so the outside box would need to be stout. Also if they order multiple units and try to stack them together, a form of locking them together would be a good idea such as a wiggle and wiggle tab on either end would suffice. I am taking these ideas off a list I made up to satisfy all customers.


-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>Sent: Mar 12, 2020 4:58 PM
>To: HOn3@groups.io
>Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>
>I see what you mean about getting to material in the back of the
>drawers.  The only problem with orienting in the other direction for
>long wood is the footprint of the cabinet.  Personally, I don't believe
>I'd have the space to accommodate a 26" deep cabinet.
>
>However, I believe I can come up with a design (a couple actually) that
>would satisfy both camps well enough.  Let me see what I can do.
>
>Bill
>
>
>On 3/12/20 2:42 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>> Yes, crosswise with the seemingly prefered way. My only objection to it is the wood stored in the back of the drawer would be hard to get to. That was the only reason for the option of turning it 90 degrees.
>> Maybe an optional drawer add on for the sheet wood flat or vertical storage could be an option as well.
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:38 PM
>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>
>>> No problem, I'll see what I can come up with.  As I recall we all agreed
>>> on a cabinet similar to the original with the wood stored crosswise, right?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill Lugg
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/12/20 1:28 PM, Climax@... wrote:
>>>> I'm sorry Bill, I started it and got side tracked with all the virus stuff and my Masonic Lodge duties. Besides that the NMRA Sunshine Region which I am the President of, is giving me a fit as directors are not doing the jobs they signed on to do.
>>>> I will willingly relinquish the job for now and when I get them done I will still forward them to you for your evaluation. Who knows, yours might even be better than what I was thinking anyway.
>>>> DAve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
>>>>> Sent: Mar 12, 2020 3:15 PM
>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>
>>>>> Has any progress been made with drawings of this cabinet?  If not, I
>>>>> have some time and could take a stab at it from the info and photos I've
>>>>> received.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lugg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 1/25/20 9:26 PM, asandrini wrote:
>>>>>> Sorry, fat fingers hit the sent button and not the attach button.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached this time.
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: asandrini <asandrini@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 8:23 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io, asandrini@...
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have been asked to post a couple of pictures of my Kappler Lumber
>>>>>> Company lumber yard.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Photos attached.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Al
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>>> From: "kevin b via Groups.Io" <arcatruck13@...>
>>>>>> Date: 1/25/20 6:01 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>>>>> To: HOn3@groups.io
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> any chance you'd post a photo or two of that box?
>>>>>> i'd like a shot at making one as my lumber yard is in tubes and
>>>>>> scattered to the winds etc.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I had saved mailing tubes to store the lumber, and labeled the tubes
>>>>>> with the sizes. It was a mess and took up a lot of space. One day
>>>>>> Frank walked into my shop and presented me with 7x8x28 inch, 7 drawer
>>>>>> box. The drawers had dividers to hold HO scale 1x2's through 12x12's,
>>>>>> plus two bottom drawers to hold his siding material.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> thanks.
>>>>>> Kevin.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

Re: San Juan

Clifford Mestel
 

San Juan's telephone number is 303-916-1601

In a message dated 3/3/2020 8:20:54 AM Mountain Standard Time, Railroadguy1957@... writes:

I’m trying to call San Juan. Can anyone give me their number. I can’t seem to find it on their website.

Thanks

Mike “Rustler” Mackey


Re: Wanted pipe gon kits

Clifford Mestel
 

Hi Mr. Lehrer;

We at Trout Creek Engineering have some in stock for $32 plus shipping.

Clifford A. Mestel
Trout Creek Engineering

In a message dated 3/11/2020 11:36:21 AM Mountain Standard Time, lloydlehrer@... writes:

Anybody got some collecting dust or hiding in a dark corner, let me know with price.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

--
lloyd lehrer