Date   

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Dave Trimble
 

Here’s pictures of RS-1 


And RS-3:


And, for completeness, RS-2


Supposedly the 2 and 3 were nearly identical and more angular than the 1. 

They built 1418 RS-3, 377 RS-2 and 469 RS-1.

Clearly the RS-3 was the most successful.

You can read about them all and their differences in Wikipedia areticals.

Dave


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Dale Buxton
 

It’s mostly a width thing with D&RGW “K’s”. However, C&S locomotives with Bear Trap Spark Arrestors have a height problem at Como. That’s why the arrestor was hinged in the middle and they folded down to the side. 

Dale B.

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 20:43 <Climax@...> wrote:

Is that becasue of height or width problems.  I have most of the MM roundhouses and extra stalls yet to build.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Nov 11, 2019 10:30 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Climax@...
 


Is that becasue of height or width problems.  I have most of the MM roundhouses and extra stalls yet to build.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Nov 11, 2019 10:30 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Dale Buxton
 

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

And very appropriate for 1950, the era I model!  To be honest, I just like the look of them -- very early steam to diesel transition.  I understand they used to smoke like a steam engine


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:53 PM Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:
Yes they are RS-1's  The hood on the cab and the square corners
-Steve Hatch


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Steve Hatch
 

Yes they are RS-1's  The hood on the cab and the square corners
-Steve Hatch


Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

Russ Norris
 

I had a similar problem with my EBT       2-8-2's where the trailing truck would short against the frame.  I used a rubber based gasket cement from my local NAPA store to insulate the inside of the frame. Some engines required a more drastic solution that involved filing down the inside of the frame to improve clearance. 


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 5:49 PM kevin b via Groups.Io <arcatruck13=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

mine, which has yet to be painted, wants to short itself out between the trailing (tender) truck and the frame/chassis.
my cure, which I am not at all happy with, but does work, is a piece of scotch tape between the two to act as an insulator.
Kevin.



A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.



Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.




LongJohn aka John Massura


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

And for that reason I believe my RS-3s are RS1s.  Thanks.


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 5:38 PM Doug Cummings <dougcummings@...> wrote:
The RS1 and RS3 are so vastly different in appearance there should be no way to get them confused, 


From: "Russ Norris" <rbnorrisjr@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:26:21 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Running DC on a DCC Layout

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

kevin b
 


mine, which has yet to be painted, wants to short itself out between the trailing (tender) truck and the frame/chassis.
my cure, which I am not at all happy with, but does work, is a piece of scotch tape between the two to act as an insulator.
Kevin.



A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.



Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.




LongJohn aka John Massura


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Doug Cummings
 

The RS1 and RS3 are so vastly different in appearance there should be no way to get them confused, 


From: "Russ Norris" <rbnorrisjr@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:26:21 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Running DC on a DCC Layout

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

arfio@...
 

John, Steve H had one for sale not long ago for a reasonable price.

Allen Farnsworth

On Nov 11, 2019, at 2:35 PM, John G Massura <jmassura@...> wrote:

A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.

Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.

LongJohn aka John Massura

<IMG_1823.jpeg>


Re: Coupler thoughts

Mark Lewis
 

🤔  

Mark Lewis

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 1:33 PM burrst54 <burr.stewart@...> wrote:
It's ironic that the 714 is easy to uncouple with a pick because it has slack inside the knuckle, the very slack that drives us crazy when the whole train lurches forward and back, Sergents are easy to uncouple with a magnetic wand (in my experience) but very difficult to couple up, and 705's solve the lurch problem by having so little room inside the knuckle that they're hard to uncouple with a pick. We seem to be going in circles...


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

jczul36
 

John, The model is painted very nice, but unfortunately, the custom brass is not the one to buy.  The custom brass looks great, but the manufacture foolishly has the front drive rigid to the superstructure.  The front drive should articulate (As on the Balboa or United models) and allow the rear tender area to always be centered between the rails (Since this is where it attaches to the rolling stock).  The way they designed this model makes the rear of the engine swing (Tender area) on curves, derailing the rolling stock coupled behind it.  I’m afraid the model you have will always have to run alone.  You should be on the look out for Balboa’s models.  They perform very well, and all they need is a can motor.
Regards,
jc

On Nov 11, 2019, at 12:35 PM, John G Massura <jmassura@...> wrote:

A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.

Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.

LongJohn aka John Massura

<IMG_1823.jpeg>


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Russ Norris
 

I have a 65' Kitwood turntable as well.  They are fun to build and they look great.  Good choice.

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 12:50 PM Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have two Kitwood 65ft turntables.  Thank you for your comments.  

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Monday, November 11, 2019, 09:25:05 AM PST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


You can get the Sargents roundhouse with more stalls if that style appeals to you. I’ve toyed with the idea of using or kit bashing a Walthers three stall roundhouse kit (https://www.walthers.com/three-stall-roundhouse-kit-14-x-14-1-4-x-4-11-16-quot-35-6-x-36-2-x-11-9cm) which can be expanded up to 36 stalls. It would hold K-36s and K-37s pretty easily, but if your railroad uses smaller locomotives, it would probably overpower them. If I went that route, I would try to reduce the height. A 65’ turntable rather than a Walthers 90’ or 110’ turntable might even get you reasonable leads out front.

On Nov 11, 2019, at 7:43 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi all.  I'll start by saying that I am starting a layout from scratch, have high intermediate modeling skills, and have a lot to do so I deem scratch building out of bounds until so much more is done.

I have a plan that has two turntables and two roundhouses.  I have acquired the Sargents kit by Banta for point B as 3 stalls is what I need.  For point A, I am looking for a minimum 5 stall kit, could fit 6. Love the CC Crow stuff, but way more than I can accommodate and a bit pricey with long long waits.  I have looked at the Model Masterpieces Como kit, that could work but I am not really that enthusiastic about it.  I like the SSI Sterling standard gauge kit but feel it would dwarf the narrow gauge gear.

Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on an HOn3 scaled kit?  Thanks. S


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

John G Massura
 

A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.

Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.

LongJohn aka John Massura


Re: Coupler thoughts

burrst54
 

It's ironic that the 714 is easy to uncouple with a pick because it has slack inside the knuckle, the very slack that drives us crazy when the whole train lurches forward and back, Sergents are easy to uncouple with a magnetic wand (in my experience) but very difficult to couple up, and 705's solve the lurch problem by having so little room inside the knuckle that they're hard to uncouple with a pick. We seem to be going in circles...


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Stephen Silver
 

I have two Kitwood 65ft turntables.  Thank you for your comments.  

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Monday, November 11, 2019, 09:25:05 AM PST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


You can get the Sargents roundhouse with more stalls if that style appeals to you. I’ve toyed with the idea of using or kit bashing a Walthers three stall roundhouse kit (https://www.walthers.com/three-stall-roundhouse-kit-14-x-14-1-4-x-4-11-16-quot-35-6-x-36-2-x-11-9cm) which can be expanded up to 36 stalls. It would hold K-36s and K-37s pretty easily, but if your railroad uses smaller locomotives, it would probably overpower them. If I went that route, I would try to reduce the height. A 65’ turntable rather than a Walthers 90’ or 110’ turntable might even get you reasonable leads out front.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Nov 11, 2019, at 7:43 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi all.  I'll start by saying that I am starting a layout from scratch, have high intermediate modeling skills, and have a lot to do so I deem scratch building out of bounds until so much more is done.

I have a plan that has two turntables and two roundhouses.  I have acquired the Sargents kit by Banta for point B as 3 stalls is what I need.  For point A, I am looking for a minimum 5 stall kit, could fit 6. Love the CC Crow stuff, but way more than I can accommodate and a bit pricey with long long waits.  I have looked at the Model Masterpieces Como kit, that could work but I am not really that enthusiastic about it.  I like the SSI Sterling standard gauge kit but feel it would dwarf the narrow gauge gear.

Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on an HOn3 scaled kit?  Thanks. S


Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Jim Marlett
 

You can get the Sargents roundhouse with more stalls if that style appeals to you. I’ve toyed with the idea of using or kit bashing a Walthers three stall roundhouse kit (https://www.walthers.com/three-stall-roundhouse-kit-14-x-14-1-4-x-4-11-16-quot-35-6-x-36-2-x-11-9cm) which can be expanded up to 36 stalls. It would hold K-36s and K-37s pretty easily, but if your railroad uses smaller locomotives, it would probably overpower them. If I went that route, I would try to reduce the height. A 65’ turntable rather than a Walthers 90’ or 110’ turntable might even get you reasonable leads out front.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Nov 11, 2019, at 7:43 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi all.  I'll start by saying that I am starting a layout from scratch, have high intermediate modeling skills, and have a lot to do so I deem scratch building out of bounds until so much more is done.

I have a plan that has two turntables and two roundhouses.  I have acquired the Sargents kit by Banta for point B as 3 stalls is what I need.  For point A, I am looking for a minimum 5 stall kit, could fit 6. Love the CC Crow stuff, but way more than I can accommodate and a bit pricey with long long waits.  I have looked at the Model Masterpieces Como kit, that could work but I am not really that enthusiastic about it.  I like the SSI Sterling standard gauge kit but feel it would dwarf the narrow gauge gear.

Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on an HOn3 scaled kit?  Thanks. S


Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/