Date   

Re: Getting brass painted

Stephen Silver
 

You are right on.  I am not planning on doing the electronics install but now, I think the approach may be to get the electronics installed and then wait until I have had a chance to refine things.  What concerns me most is the disassembly and reassembly.  Doing a video is good, know the tricks from rebuilding many auto motors.  But I can say I am not particularly handy when it comes to mechanics so even if I can deliver some decent paint results, the R&R is daunting to me.

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Wednesday, November 13, 2019, 12:05:47 PM PST, Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...> wrote:


Even simple non sound installs involve some drilling. Lights are, I suppose, the obvious example. If it's painted then you've got a real danger of chips and scratches through handling. So do the install, then take out what cannot be easily masked and paint it. Then put it all back together.
I don't know if you'vr ever watched 'Monday Morning Express'. They had a guy on there a while back who did a paint and weather job and charged $1000! My wallet o I agree with Russ about painting your own. I have painted all of my locos and stock for 20 years.
There are three secrets to painting. Preparation (cleaning, perhaps stripping) masking and using the airbrush correctly. There are plenty of how-to videos on YouTube etc but practice on scrap materials before going for the big one. Get a good double action airbrush. I use Badgers.
If it all goes wrong (and sometimes it just does) there's always laquer thinners that will strip the paint off to the raw brass in less time than it takes to write an Email like this.

The main message is with a bit of good advice and practive, painting is not that difficult.

Mark K
Oxon England.


Re: decoder hook up wire

Mark Kasprowicz
 

I use all black, that way it doesn't show. But I identify each wire by dipping the end into cheqp quick drying paint. The 99c pots from Walfphart are ideal.

Mark K
Oxon England.


Re: Getting brass painted

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Even simple non sound installs involve some drilling. Lights are, I suppose, the obvious example. If it's painted then you've got a real danger of chips and scratches through handling. So do the install, then take out what cannot be easily masked and paint it. Then put it all back together.
I don't know if you'vr ever watched 'Monday Morning Express'. They had a guy on there a while back who did a paint and weather job and charged $1000! My wallet o I agree with Russ about painting your own. I have painted all of my locos and stock for 20 years.
There are three secrets to painting. Preparation (cleaning, perhaps stripping) masking and using the airbrush correctly. There are plenty of how-to videos on YouTube etc but practice on scrap materials before going for the big one. Get a good double action airbrush. I use Badgers.
If it all goes wrong (and sometimes it just does) there's always laquer thinners that will strip the paint off to the raw brass in less time than it takes to write an Email like this.

The main message is with a bit of good advice and practive, painting is not that difficult.

Mark K
Oxon England.


Re: decoder hook up wire

Alan Kilby
 

Digitrax also sells it in a package with the different color coded wire for decoders in one package.Convenient not having to buy different colors separately and having them all.
Alan


Re: decoder hook up wire

lloyd lehrer
 

TCS sells wire;


lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097


On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 10:59 AM Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Good day fellow modelers

I've been using left over wire from the Tsunami decoders to complete the wiring of sound decoders and adding firebox leds to simulate the flickering fire. Hooking up 3 volt leds with the leftover wire is a pain in the neck with heavy # 22 over insulated wire. I would like 12 volt wire that will take a bend and not spring back. NWSL had some but it was hard stripping. Any ideas ?


--
lloyd lehrer


Re: decoder hook up wire

Russ Norris
 

I have been using high flex wire (36 AWG) from LokSound. It handles 14 volts without a problem, is easy to thread through tight spots and comes in a wide variety of colors.  Check out www.esu.eu.  Look for Accessories (Zubehor auf Deutsch).


On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 1:59 PM Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Good day fellow modelers

I've been using left over wire from the Tsunami decoders to complete the wiring of sound decoders and adding firebox leds to simulate the flickering fire. Hooking up 3 volt leds with the leftover wire is a pain in the neck with heavy # 22 over insulated wire. I would like 12 volt wire that will take a bend and not spring back. NWSL had some but it was hard stripping. Any ideas ?


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


decoder hook up wire

Robert Veefkind
 


Good day fellow modelers

I've been using left over wire from the Tsunami decoders to complete the wiring of sound decoders and adding firebox leds to simulate the flickering fire. Hooking up 3 volt leds with the leftover wire is a pain in the neck with heavy # 22 over insulated wire. I would like 12 volt wire that will take a bend and not spring back. NWSL had some but it was hard stripping. Any ideas ?


Re: CMX Products

Tranz4mr@...
 

I uploaded my step by step CMX conversion to the files section.
Enjoy!
--
Kent Schwarz
SLMI layout club
Rocky Mountain Train Show Co-Chairman
Littleton CO


New file uploaded to HOn3@groups.io

HOn3@groups.io Notification <HOn3+notification@...>
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that the following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the HOn3@groups.io group.

Uploaded By: Kent Schwarz <Tranz4mr@...>

Description:
CMX N Scale Cleaning Car conversion to CMX Hon3 Cleaning Car

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Re: CMX Products

Tranz4mr@...
 

The CMX track cleaner in N gauge is lighter than the HO model which makes it much easier to push up grades. I converted a CMX Track cleaner from N to HOn3 by switching out the N gauge micro trains trucks (with integrated couplers) to HOn3 micro trains trucks and separate couplers. The Micro Trains truck bolts right on. I had to drill the frame to mount the micro trains couplers. To get the the cleaning pad to contact the track properly I had to add a .02” styrene shim under the the fabric. My layout has many long tunnels and and steep grades and  the CMX works great.
If you are interested I wrote this up a few years ago with photos and can send it to you.

PS I’ve also converted a N gauge Trackman N-2000 (discontinued) cleaning car with good results.
  

Kent Schwarz
NMRA

NMRA


Kent Schwarz
Cell 303-718-2636


--
Kent Schwarz
SLMI layout club
Rocky Mountain Train Show Co-Chairman
Littleton CO


Re: Getting brass painted

Ric Case
 

I myself do all the install to make sure everything works before I do the paint! 
I usually run the locomotive for a week or so before and after I do the work 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Nov 13, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:


Ric, it does not.......yet.  Would you recommend a pre or post paint installation?

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Wednesday, November 13, 2019, 06:14:16 AM PST, Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:


There are quite a few modelers that are very good at this on this site! The cost varies with the complexity of the paint job! Does it already have sound and lighting!

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Nov 13, 2019, at 8:54 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


Steve Hatch

Robert Bell
 

Steve, please contact off list again.  Thanks.

Rob Bell


Re: CMX Products

Labo44
 

Hello !
Please see here: http://www.railnet.ch/documents/JES001347E.pdf
Sincerely, ~JES~


Re: Getting brass painted

Stephen Silver
 

Russ, thanks all great advice.  I'll check the latest Gazette and see what I find.  Time is not as important as the quality of the job.

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Wednesday, November 13, 2019, 06:26:44 AM PST, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:


Hi Steve.  As the owner of several unpainted brass engines (East Broad Top) I can sympathize with your reservations about painting them.  I have several fine locomotives that operate well running on my railroad, but still unpainted after more than 15 years.  However, in recent years I have tried my hand at painting some of my brass collection with relatively good results. I painted the East Broad Top's M-1 gas electric motor car and made the mistake of over thinking it.  The end result was less than ideal, but you would be amazed at what a coat of paint can do!  More recently I painted a brass PRR I1s decapod that I bought on line, and although I still have to reassemble it and install a sound decoder, the paint job came out pretty good.  Along the way I learned how to disassemble and reassemble a brass locomotive, how to use an air brush, and a lot of other skills that I didn't know I had.  So don't be afraid to try your hand at painting your brass babies.  One thing I would underscore, however, and that is to take lots of pictures as you disassemble the engine, keep careful track of all the little screws and springs, and take your time.  You will get through it. 

If you are still looking to have a professional paint job, you might check the ads in the Gazette or the HOn3 Annual.  There was an ad in the latest issue of the Gazette by a fellow in Texas who offers a professional paint job.  A couple of years ago I wrote to someone whose ad I read in a magazine and he replied that he could paint one of my engines for $200, but it would take about 6 weeks to do the job.  I decided not to go that route.  Some of the folks on this list may have first hand experience with a professional, and they could speak to that.  Best of luck in any case.





On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 8:54 AM Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Getting brass painted

Stephen Silver
 

Ric, it does not.......yet.  Would you recommend a pre or post paint installation?

S

Life is mostly attitude and timing


On Wednesday, November 13, 2019, 06:14:16 AM PST, Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:


There are quite a few modelers that are very good at this on this site! The cost varies with the complexity of the paint job! Does it already have sound and lighting!

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Nov 13, 2019, at 8:54 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


Re: Getting brass painted

Russ Norris
 

Hi Steve.  As the owner of several unpainted brass engines (East Broad Top) I can sympathize with your reservations about painting them.  I have several fine locomotives that operate well running on my railroad, but still unpainted after more than 15 years.  However, in recent years I have tried my hand at painting some of my brass collection with relatively good results. I painted the East Broad Top's M-1 gas electric motor car and made the mistake of over thinking it.  The end result was less than ideal, but you would be amazed at what a coat of paint can do!  More recently I painted a brass PRR I1s decapod that I bought on line, and although I still have to reassemble it and install a sound decoder, the paint job came out pretty good.  Along the way I learned how to disassemble and reassemble a brass locomotive, how to use an air brush, and a lot of other skills that I didn't know I had.  So don't be afraid to try your hand at painting your brass babies.  One thing I would underscore, however, and that is to take lots of pictures as you disassemble the engine, keep careful track of all the little screws and springs, and take your time.  You will get through it. 

If you are still looking to have a professional paint job, you might check the ads in the Gazette or the HOn3 Annual.  There was an ad in the latest issue of the Gazette by a fellow in Texas who offers a professional paint job.  A couple of years ago I wrote to someone whose ad I read in a magazine and he replied that he could paint one of my engines for $200, but it would take about 6 weeks to do the job.  I decided not to go that route.  Some of the folks on this list may have first hand experience with a professional, and they could speak to that.  Best of luck in any case.





On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 8:54 AM Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Getting brass painted

Ric Case
 

There are quite a few modelers that are very good at this on this site! The cost varies with the complexity of the paint job! Does it already have sound and lighting!

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Nov 13, 2019, at 8:54 AM, Stephen Silver via Groups.Io <ssilver996@...> wrote:

Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


Getting brass painted

Stephen Silver
 

Hi NG team.  I am looking at acquiring a very nice, unpainted K-37.  Runs great, Has wheels like new.  WSC.  I am not a collector and want this to run on the Silver Creek 
& Mellow Gulch Railway.  I also am not skilled/experienced enough to try and tackle this myself, so I am looking for recommendations for someone to do a pro paint job.  Anyone have a lead and what might one expect to pay for this?  BTW, I do have two brass pieces that I will be painting as my first try.  A short cent cupola caboose and a bulk head flat.  I figured those would follow a number of metal castings I am about to start.
Thanks all.
S


Re: EBT LOCO SHOP CAR SHOPS REMOVED THE ROOF TO SHOW WHERE THE TRACKS SHOULD BE!

NarrowMinded1
 

Just an FYI, based off of the HAER drawings used to produce this kit the full size kit footprint is 30" long by 18" wide..It is made to be the centerpiece of your EBT, or freelanced, layout.
--
Nathan Kline
www.broadtopmountainmodels.com


Re: CMX Products

Mike Smith
 

Thanks Russ.  I will look into it.  It sounds good.  

Mike Smith 
Tucson, AZ. 

Sent from Mike's iPhone

On Nov 12, 2019, at 11:18 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:


Mike, here is an alternative.  While I was in Sacramento, I bought an HOn3 brass track cleaner car from Centerline Products.  I actually bought it from Steve at Caboose Hobbies who had a bunch of them running in different scales during the convention.  The car itself is brass and heavy.  There is a slot for a brass cylinder, which you wrap in absorbent material and place in the slot.  The car comes with extra material for wrapping and little tiny rubber bands to hold the wrapping in place.  When I first put it on the tracks, it worked pretty well -- after running a train around the main for a while the wrapping had two black streaks from the gunk it picked up.  But I wasn't 100% satisfied.  The cloth wrapping was hard to keep wound and the rubber banks (the package only included a few) kept breaking. Plus the fact that the clunky brass car didn't quite fit in with my narrow gauge scenery!  So I made a few changes.  I got rid of the rubber bands and secured the cloth wrapper to the cylinder by putting a thin bead of super glue to hold the wrapper in place.  Then I disassembled an HOn3 reefer (Microtrains, I think)  and popped it over the brass track cleaner car.  It fits perfectly!   The car works as intended, cleans the track, and looks like a conventional reefer.  All this for about $75.  I think it's a bargain.  Google Centerline Products.  The HOn3 car doesn't appear on their website, but they carry it.  Give them a call.

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 9:48 AM Mike Smith via Groups.Io <spmike50=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Has anyone tried to convert a CMX Products N scale Brass Track Cleaning car to HOn3?     The standard gauge HO car doesn't convert.  

Thanks,

Mike Smith
Tucson, AZ  


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/