I just measured the rail head width of some Micro Engineering code 70 rail and got about 0.032” and some code 55 rail at about 0.029”. I thought the Code 55 would be less, but the old calipers

I am totally code 70 so I cant offer any gauge 55 or 40 issues. Also a mix of micro eng and peco and shin-O'hara.just make it deep enough to stay off the "plastic or spike head depending on your

Kevin I intended to recommend a PCB retainer plate and wipers on the drivers, but several corespondents have already done so. The advantage of driver wipers is that they do not

So if I cut the rail depth say .070 deep and maybe .070 from the ends do you think that would do the trick, and if so what treat do you give? Oh wait, that was a week ago! Dave

you need to mimic the flange ways on the nmra gauge. the shoulder on the ends of the gauge keep you from getting in closer to the points and thru the guard rails. I did not do make that adjustment

Lloyd, all jokes aside, wouldn't that kind of defeat the slots to keep the rails parallel and in gauge? Also, should I make the slots for code 70 or code 55? I am assuming that the width is /070 or

If you want to avoid issues with guard rails you could remove the fenders. It also allows you travel farther in towards the points from the frog end. lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097 -- lloyd lehrer

Yah same tools i have. The heads of the rail brands differ in thickness a little and the rail code also of course, so you just have to concern yourself with those details. I added 2 thousandths to my

On the rollee should I make them so the outer rail space spins freely for going around curves or just make the inner slot with a deeper cut? Maybe add a differential like a car has?

I do like your design better. I have a Sherline Lathe and a Sherline Vertical mill so it shouldn't be a problem. I hope nobody gets pissed at me for offering to do this.

Dave, grab your micrometer, measure your rail thickness, grab your nmra gauge, chuck up some brass rod and go to work.i found Steve's gauges had too much excess collar on the ends and made my ends

Ken, Great, just send me their address and I'll place an order. Mark K Oxon England.

If I had a rollee, I could turn some on my lathe on a very limited basis. Dave

I’m with Dave. Just draw the rail positions on a piece of paper, double sided tape on it, lay out the PCB ties, make and fit the crossing nose and go on from there, with a couple of track gauges and

Dale While your UP guy is I’m sure entirely correct about track standards in the US, both tracks thru the crossing must be straight, here in the UK we allow one or sometimes both tracks in the

Nope; those are from Steve as well as my standard (Lucite?) ones.

Thanks, everyone, for weighing in. A lot to think about here, but I'm sure many of these suggestions will help me accomplish the task. What a great forum! Bob Herrick

I just use the Shinohara #3 wye -- got two of 'em on my layout. If you shop around you can still occasionally find them on eBay. Russ -- Russ Norris, MMR Cape Cod,

On occasion when I need a special rail fixture, turnout, gantlet track, crossing, or what ever, I have just stripped the flex track rail out of the ties and then place it where I want it, over lap the

Did you make your own brass Rollee Holders? Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/