Bizarre. I’ve never had that experience. Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

If you want to include tie plates with your hand laid track, you might want to check the Proto 87 website. Tie plates are athttp://www.proto87.com/product1907.html. I haven't used them yet, but am

Thanks for your replies,, I am using ME flex, some standard gauge, some narrow gauge, some dual gauge, some weathered most not, none of the track is glued down, all is nailed to blue foam. By

You should be using a product that is made "down-under" called "INOX". It's an electrical conductive lubricant that if used as directed creates an oxidation barrier on your ME Nickel-Silver rail. Dale

Jeff, Yes this is Telluride, with a few changes from how it really was in my 1941 time frame. I wanted to keep a small engine house for operations and fun, and had to swap a couple of switches to get

I’m not sure what you mean by tarnish. Are you having troubles with conducting electricity from rail to wheel? Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

I won’t be using Switch machines, all will be controlled with Caboose Industries Ground Throws, and Tam Valley Electrical gizmos. (KISS) I have no plans for deep scenery so the modules will be

Hi Alan, When you say tarnishing is this a yellowing? Are you referring to unlaid track or laid track? If laid did you use PVA glue? If so was the PVA low acidity? If yes to the last it's probably due

Hi all, I am having trouble with my ME rail tarnishing, the Peco rail stays clean, we live in a relatively hot part of Australia (Perth) but we don't suffer with humidity. The rail will tarnish within

I guess I'll paint the rail before I lay it. Thank you for the feedback.

I suggest that you not apply rail weathering solution to rail that is already in place. I discovered the hard way that it keeps working unless it can be completely removed. It rusts the spikes and

I wasnt really expecting this topic to take off like it did but every post is informative for me and I appreciate the responses. For now my concern is loosing spike and tie plate detail from the flex

I agree that roller gauges are great for laying rail, but you really do need an NMRA gauge on turnouts. Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

I much prefer and use roller gauges or 3 point wherever possible,there much easier to work with especially with dual gauge turnouts. There's a few places in turnouts I use nmra gauge ,top of frog

Strange. My rollers have flange way and check rail spacing capability. Nigel

The 3 point and roller gauges which I use do not fit rails at frog where gauge is critical.I prefer roller gauges but they can't be used at frogs where the nmra gauge can.The nmra gauge has wheel

Mike C and Mike VH, Sort of peripheral to the question of hand built track, but module design and size does have an impact. I also live in a relatively small space, and have used nothing but modules

Mike VH, a suggestion from.the older guys in our module group: consider making your mm osule sections 2'x3' long instead of 4' long. It makes them easier to build and lighter to move around and

The HOn3 NMRA gauge is not available. Listed as $6 for members. $19.95 at MicroMark. Most of what it does is actually built into 3 point track gauges. The first kits I built had an included rectangle

I have nearly got things ready to start building. I now live in a retirement facility and don’t have a lot of room. I can build 8 ft down one wall and 13 ft down the other. A basic “L”