RIc, There are, but not as far as i can see with sloped tenders. Needs to be a Baldwin or close as well. The PSC one is close enough. Hen's teeth though. Nigel

Nigel I have one that is super detailed, painted and weathered and looks as good as any brass model. It is nu,bered 12 but no lettering. It is the cast metal tender. If you are intested emial me

There are quite a few brass offerings! Ric Case EBT Modeler Hamilton Ohio 1-513-375-7694

Nigel Model Die Casting did an SP (?) 0-6-0 yard switcher with sloped-back tender. This was a 1950's model, all in die-cast zinc alloy. Kemtron offered brass piston valve

Sounds like exposure to sulfur or sulfides. Nigel

Nigel, Roundhouse (MDC) had one. Mantua may have had one. Bruce Dunlevy

I need some help here. I have been looking for an 0-6-0 yard switcher with sloped-back tender. Was such a model ever made? Nigel

by any chance, do you, or someone in your household smoke? Kevin. Thanks for your replies,, I am using ME flex, some standard gauge, some narrow

Very odd, I have 2 bundles of ME code 70 rail that has been around for quite a number of years and has not tarnished. Eric

Bizarre. I’ve never had that experience. Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

If you want to include tie plates with your hand laid track, you might want to check the Proto 87 website. Tie plates are athttp://www.proto87.com/product1907.html. I haven't used them yet, but am

Thanks for your replies,, I am using ME flex, some standard gauge, some narrow gauge, some dual gauge, some weathered most not, none of the track is glued down, all is nailed to blue foam. By

You should be using a product that is made "down-under" called "INOX". It's an electrical conductive lubricant that if used as directed creates an oxidation barrier on your ME Nickel-Silver rail. Dale

Jeff, Yes this is Telluride, with a few changes from how it really was in my 1941 time frame. I wanted to keep a small engine house for operations and fun, and had to swap a couple of switches to get

I’m not sure what you mean by tarnish. Are you having troubles with conducting electricity from rail to wheel? Jim Marlett http://flatheaddrag.com/ http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

I won’t be using Switch machines, all will be controlled with Caboose Industries Ground Throws, and Tam Valley Electrical gizmos. (KISS) I have no plans for deep scenery so the modules will be

Hi Alan, When you say tarnishing is this a yellowing? Are you referring to unlaid track or laid track? If laid did you use PVA glue? If so was the PVA low acidity? If yes to the last it's probably due

Hi all, I am having trouble with my ME rail tarnishing, the Peco rail stays clean, we live in a relatively hot part of Australia (Perth) but we don't suffer with humidity. The rail will tarnish within

I guess I'll paint the rail before I lay it. Thank you for the feedback.

I suggest that you not apply rail weathering solution to rail that is already in place. I discovered the hard way that it keeps working unless it can be completely removed. It rusts the spikes and