When I did the same thing in my house I had them add a 100A panel. I believe it is a 10 position (which could hold 10 dual breakers for a total of 20 ckt bkr’s max). Allen Farnsworth

Steve, I have my layout in a space roughly the same as yours, with a slew of LED track lights and half a dozen recessed lights (also LED) and I have the room on a standard 15 amp breaker, and have

Stephen, my layout is a little smaller(22×11.5) and I recommend three 20 amp circuits. One for overhead lighting, one for dcc and one for tools, stereo, mini fridge. If you have other intentions for

I’ve had good success using a “fiberglass eraser” to remove the weathering. It removes the weathering quickly and gets into the corners of the web. Some of my soldered rail joints are over 25

I have 200 amps at my panel. For running the layout, what other power hungry devices might I anticipate beyond my DCC system? Power hungry tools are located elsewhere. Outside of the soldering iron

Hi; How many Amp service do you have on your main panel? I would go with at least 100 amps on the sub panel and that may be cutting it short if you add other power hungry devices or tools. Plan on

I’ve laid about 60 feet of code 55 ME weathered flex and 11 prefab stub turnouts in Sn3 with leads to every length of rail (the track is sold by PBL but made by ME). It took scraping the joints

I am building out part of the unfinished basement in a new house to accommodate the Silver Creek & Mellow Gulch Railway. The room is 22ft X 17ft. Loop to loop from one 22 ft wall to the other (19 ft

I believe that means „Read the Fine Manual“ 😇😂🤣 Regards, Mark Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

Hi,Good morning Troops: I’ve built over 100 Turnouts, using the Fast Tracks Jigs and Tools. I have used both Weathered ME and Unweathered ME Rail. Either one works just fine, altho the Weathered

In my HOn3 days (now model in Sn3), I would use the weathered rail on straight and curved portions (all hand laid but not glued or soldered) and non-weathered for turnout building (soldered to pc

I forgot to mention that I also scraped off the bottom of the rail- not to difficult for a switch, but it would get tiresome for anything more extensive. I just rubbed the bottom over a sheet of

Hi Sébastien, I've tried this and gave up! Trying to work through the coating is tedious and non productive nd I've tried fluxes like Carrs Orange and dilute Phosphoric acid. So you end up scraping

I am interested in your HOn3 PFM Pagosa Junction Car. Can you send or post photos? Also, any other details about it? Any modifications other than the Blackstone trucks? Does it come with its box?..

Lloyd: I have checked out that one and it certainly looks good and at a very fair price. I was wondering if Tony had another source. I'm going to order a couple of the Western Rails units. Merry

Dusty, I just finished building a couple of #6 switches using code 55 rail and Fast Tracks tools and jigs I borrowed from my good friend, Dave Trimble. I started using Tix flux to solder the rails to

Dumb questions was the top and the bottom of the rail clean? Did you tin the bottom of the rail? Or did you tin the PC board? If yes to the 3 dumb questions then yes the weathering does prevent heat

I had a bit of code 55 weathered on hand so I decided to use it to build switches. Clean the bottom real well and solder away. Sounded great. The problem I encountered was conducting the heat from the

Like Bill said, you just need to clean off the weathering for spots you will solder to as well as on the top of the track. I’ve used this method on my HOn3 layout and was taught by David Stewart of

The little bit I've used it, I find you need to clean the weathering off where you're going to solder (joiners, ties, etc.) and the rail head for operation to be dependable.  The look of the finished