Date   

TTTE-Style D&RG series

rj052204@...
 

I want to make a series about the D&RG(W) in the style of Thomas & Friends. Will HOn3 be the best option for me, should I stick to a bigger scale, or should I use HOn3 and other scales hand in hand? 


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

p. f. hollingsworth
 

NWSL, almost certainly. If they fit the trucks well enough to roll, leave 'em be. I never tried to do that, so can't say.
The MDC items did, indeed, have pointy axles of a unique length, and were mostly just junk. They were about as wide as an Indy race car tire and look horrible. I have a couple of the MDC passenger trucks fitted with some wheels that are acceptable, but I cannot recall what make- Rio Grande Models from in the mid seventies maybe?


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

Dusty
 

While desperately seeking MDC Trucks to examine I discovered a set of NWSL Wheels, part # 7314-4. The axels and bushings looked spot on. While the wheels were wider and plated the profile looked very similar. The mystery wheel sets were in a pair of Grandt C & S Bettendorf that looked fairly old. I wonder if the wheel sets were some of the first NWSL replacements hence no plating or blackening. Maybe they were blackened and they are now very distressed.

Looks like NWSL wheelsets to me. Thank all you for your contributions to the resolution of this little mystery!!!

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

LARRY KLOSE
 

I have a magnet tool holder above my work bench. I keep a small screwdriver on it and its magnetized enough to hold steel screws. For non magnetic screws I use a “nut starter” I got from micro mark—not sure of the name. Besides nuts it holds smaller screw heads than the one with little wire fingers and a plunger. I use the “finger” holder for larger screws and nuts.

Larry Klose


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

John Stutz
 

Dusty

Looks like you have a couple versions of NWSL's "#7343-4  HOn3 27"/72 Shldr Axle Wheelset -Grandt Line" (#8200-6 weathered), as listed in the 8/2006 price list.  NWSL wheelsets' brass axle stock's diameter varied over the years, but I have no details on how or when.  Axle stock diameter did not affect the fit into truck frames. 

This is the only HOn3 code 72 wheelset listed, all others being code 88 (or 110?).  I suspect that NWSL were using a standard N-scale NMRA RP-25 code 72 profile tool to cut the wheels, rather than attempting to actually match Grandt's standard profile. 

John Stutz

On July 1, 2021 2:12 PM Dusty via groups.io <dustburm@...> wrote:


I purchased 3 pr. of Grandt trucks off of Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707

_._,_._,_


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

lloyd lehrer
 

MDC always used pointed axles. SG and NG.
lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 4:02 PM kevin b via groups.io <arcatruck13=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
don't take my word for it, but those look like MDC wheelsets to me.
Kevin.
Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


--
lloyd lehrer


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

kevin b
 

don't take my word for it, but those look like MDC wheelsets to me.
Kevin.

Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Re: Wheel Manufacturer?

Bill M
 

Hey Dusty

You should be able to get genuine Grandt wheelsets this summer . 

Bill


On Thu., 1 Jul. 2021 at 5:12 p.m., Dusty via groups.io
<Dustburm@...> wrote:
I purchased 3 pr. of Grandt trucks off of Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Wheel Manufacturer?

Dusty
 

I purchased 3 pr. of Grandt trucks off of Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Nigel Phillips
 

If using steel screws use magnetic tip screwdrivers. If not magnetic a few swipes along a magnet generates a weak magnetic field strong enough to pick up small screws. If brass a dap of lube grease or oil on the screwdriver bit, not the screw head. Double-sided adhesive tape also works. Peels off when the screw bites.

Nigel


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 3:47 PM Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:
I just use a little beeswax on the tip of the screwdriver.

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,



--
Wayne Taylor


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Wayne
 

I just use a little beeswax on the tip of the screwdriver.


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,



--
Wayne Taylor


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Russ Norris
 

For starting tiny screws (slot or phillips) I use little sticks with adhesive on the end.  I'm not sure where I originally got them, but I am inclined to think Micro Mark.  I just press the screw into the adhesive and use the combination to start the screw into the hold.  Then I use a conventional small screwdriver to finish the job.  Occasionally, I simply rub the top of the screw into the adhesive, enough to secure the screw to the screwdriver, and use it that way.  I have shaky hands and poor closeup vision, but this method usually does the job for me.

Russ


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 1:56 PM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


prong holder ? screw sticker?

Robert Veefkind
 

Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,


Re: Help with Westside K-37

waynecohen49@...
 

Thanks Mike.  I’ll save this email chain for future use.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:18 PM Mike Chamberlain <mikec6201@...> wrote:
It's fairly easy . After removing it from the loco just take a file to the side of the idler shaft and file it level to the gearbox . Then use a NWSL puller to force the shaft out .  When reassembling the box you will need some spacers to keep the new gear centred , I used 3 fiber washers on each side of the gear . To make it easier I would glue each stack of 3 together with CA . When done a small bit of JB Weld will hold the shaft in place........Mike

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:22 PM <waynecohen49@...> wrote:
In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Mike Chamberlain
 

It's fairly easy . After removing it from the loco just take a file to the side of the idler shaft and file it level to the gearbox . Then use a NWSL puller to force the shaft out .  When reassembling the box you will need some spacers to keep the new gear centred , I used 3 fiber washers on each side of the gear . To make it easier I would glue each stack of 3 together with CA . When done a small bit of JB Weld will hold the shaft in place........Mike


On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:22 PM <waynecohen49@...> wrote:
In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

waynecohen49@...
 

In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: NCNG #8

LenTRaley
 

Only drawings I have seen are to be found on pages 50-51 of the Narrow Gauge & Short Gazette for July/August of 2010. 
Hope this helps.

Len Raley


Re: NCNG #8

Jeff Reynolds
 

Bill,
Do you live anywhere near Nevada City/Grass Valley CA, home of the NCNG?
You can email me direct if you want to.
jefe


Re: Help with Westside K-37

 

Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

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