Date   

Wheel Manufacturer?

Dusty
 

I purchased 3 pr. of Grandt trucks off of Ebay. One pair had 3 axels of apparently non Grandt wheel sets. They appear to have brass wheels and brass flat ended axels with a plastic insulating bushing on one wheel. The width of the wheels are .070 compared to the Grandt wheels at .080. Are these possibly NWSL wheels or were there other wheel set manufacturers? They look old.  They don't resemble the PSC wheels I'm familiar with but that doesn't mean very much. Any thoughts?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Nigel Phillips
 

If using steel screws use magnetic tip screwdrivers. If not magnetic a few swipes along a magnet generates a weak magnetic field strong enough to pick up small screws. If brass a dap of lube grease or oil on the screwdriver bit, not the screw head. Double-sided adhesive tape also works. Peels off when the screw bites.

Nigel


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 3:47 PM Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:
I just use a little beeswax on the tip of the screwdriver.

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,



--
Wayne Taylor


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Wayne
 

I just use a little beeswax on the tip of the screwdriver.


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,



--
Wayne Taylor


Re: prong holder ? screw sticker?

Russ Norris
 

For starting tiny screws (slot or phillips) I use little sticks with adhesive on the end.  I'm not sure where I originally got them, but I am inclined to think Micro Mark.  I just press the screw into the adhesive and use the combination to start the screw into the hold.  Then I use a conventional small screwdriver to finish the job.  Occasionally, I simply rub the top of the screw into the adhesive, enough to secure the screw to the screwdriver, and use it that way.  I have shaky hands and poor closeup vision, but this method usually does the job for me.

Russ


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 1:56 PM Robert Veefkind via groups.io <snookdust=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


prong holder ? screw sticker?

Robert Veefkind
 

Alas-my screw holder has gone beyond repair after some 50 years of use. It is 2 prong with a small slot in each prong. Small enough to hold 1 and 2 mm screws. I looked for similar but were larger 3 and 4 prong-way too big for my use. Any help ?      Bob V,


Re: Help with Westside K-37

waynecohen49@...
 

Thanks Mike.  I’ll save this email chain for future use.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:18 PM Mike Chamberlain <mikec6201@...> wrote:
It's fairly easy . After removing it from the loco just take a file to the side of the idler shaft and file it level to the gearbox . Then use a NWSL puller to force the shaft out .  When reassembling the box you will need some spacers to keep the new gear centred , I used 3 fiber washers on each side of the gear . To make it easier I would glue each stack of 3 together with CA . When done a small bit of JB Weld will hold the shaft in place........Mike

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:22 PM <waynecohen49@...> wrote:
In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Mike Chamberlain
 

It's fairly easy . After removing it from the loco just take a file to the side of the idler shaft and file it level to the gearbox . Then use a NWSL puller to force the shaft out .  When reassembling the box you will need some spacers to keep the new gear centred , I used 3 fiber washers on each side of the gear . To make it easier I would glue each stack of 3 together with CA . When done a small bit of JB Weld will hold the shaft in place........Mike


On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 7:22 PM <waynecohen49@...> wrote:
In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

waynecohen49@...
 

In regards to replacing the WSM K37 idler gear.   Is the gear box easy to disassemble?  Mine have been in storage for years, but I seem to remember that the gearbox is fabricated and soldered together.  Please correct me if I’m wrong - and I hope I am wrong about that.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 11:40 AM Bruce Dunlevy <bdunlevy@...> wrote:
Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: NCNG #8

LenTRaley
 

Only drawings I have seen are to be found on pages 50-51 of the Narrow Gauge & Short Gazette for July/August of 2010. 
Hope this helps.

Len Raley


Re: NCNG #8

Jeff Reynolds
 

Bill,
Do you live anywhere near Nevada City/Grass Valley CA, home of the NCNG?
You can email me direct if you want to.
jefe


Re: Help with Westside K-37

 

Dave,

The idler gear is NWSL #3056 or Walters #53-3056 in Derlin.

Bruce Dunlevy 


On Jun 30, 2021, at 11:03 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Ah yes, the Craftsman 3 Coreless Drive as fitted to the Nakamura K-28 and 36. Ironically although the Nakimi motors were Gutless rather than Coreless, they are fine runners when remotored, I have two of them. Dead easy to replace the motor with a mashima 1624, not so easy to find that motor anymore. The tubular brass housing goes straight in the bin and you're left with a 2mm. Shaft.
I have a Nakamura 37 and mention of it reminds me to dig it out and place it on Ebay here in the UK.

Mark K


Re: Help with Westside K-37

martin feldwick
 

here s a quick shot  of the top of the chassis and one of the bottom
IMG_1538.jpeg
IMG_1537.jpeg
 IMG_1541.jpeg
.looks like I better get a NWSL idler so thanks for the tip
martin


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Dale Buxton
 

Dave,
There is a Westside K-37 on Ebay right now with several good photo shots of the underside. Take a look at those photos to clarify what I write below.

There are two screws (probably 1.4mm slotted. Almost everything Nakamura made back then used slotted screws for the really small screws), that hold the rear of the cab base to the rear of the rear frame plate. The holes in the rear cab base match up with the threaded holes in the rear frame plate. 

The forward boiler screw is a bit more tricky. It's been a long, long time since I've owned one of these. But, there is a long shouldered screw that goes through a crescent shaped slot in the  pony truck and the steam chest and finally into the boiler. If I remember correctly, the sleeve is there to limit the depth of travel of this screw so that it does not bind the lateral travel of the pony truck. The sleeve also holds the boiler to the frame and the attached steam chest assembly tight to the boiler saddle. 

I can't remember for sure if the pony truck was spring loaded or not, But, I'm pretty sure it was. First, you have to remove the pony truck attachment screw and pull out the truck assembly and set it aside.  Now, If you haven't done so, put the boiler on the frame and loose-attach the cab mounting screws to the frame. Now, turn the model upside down and hold the sleeve over the boiler mounting hole. Next, put a coil spring down around the sleeve and then put a washer on the end of the spring centered over the end of the sleeve. The washer rides on top of the pony truck frame and keeps the coil spring from slipping through the crescent shaped slot in the pony truck frame.  Now placa and hold the pony truck in the mounting position while inserting the boiler mounting screw through the pony truck slot and then into the sleeve. Loose-fit the boiler screw and then re-attach the pony truck mounting screw. Now you can tighten up the cab and boiler screws.  It's a real pain in the @#* of an exercise. Writing this just brought back memories of how much fun this wasn't.

This was one of the last models to come from Japan with spring loaded pony and trailing trucks. If your model is completely intact. The rear truck has a whisker, torsion spring and the pony truck has a little, short, low pressure coil spring to exert down pressure and help keep it on the track. 

Dale Buxton

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 2:34 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737


Re: Help with Westside K-37

John Stutz
 

Thanks for the correction Wayne

John

On June 29, 2021 8:45 PM waynecohen49@... wrote:


IIRC, the Westside K36s had Namiki coreless motors that were undersize and often locked up due to the lubrication used.

The K37s though, came with an open frame motor.

Both models were built by Nakamura.

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 9:40 PM John Stutz < john.stutz@...> wrote:
Dave

You say you have a can motor.  If you have a cylindrical motor fitted into a tubular brass housing, this is actually the original Nakamura(sp?) coreless motor.  These motors are undersized for this engine, and were subject to their grease drying.  Thus the motors tended to stall and burn out.  Which may explain why the engine was not properly assembled when you received it. 

John Stutz
On June 29, 2021 1:33 PM Dave Trimble < dtrimble@...> wrote:


I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737



--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

waynecohen49@...
 

IIRC, the Westside K36s had Namiki coreless motors that were undersize and often locked up due to the lubrication used.

The K37s though, came with an open frame motor.

Both models were built by Nakamura.

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 9:40 PM John Stutz <john.stutz@...> wrote:
Dave

You say you have a can motor.  If you have a cylindrical motor fitted into a tubular brass housing, this is actually the original Nakamura(sp?) coreless motor.  These motors are undersized for this engine, and were subject to their grease drying.  Thus the motors tended to stall and burn out.  Which may explain why the engine was not properly assembled when you received it. 

John Stutz
On June 29, 2021 1:33 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:


I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737

--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Help with Westside K-37

John Stutz
 

Dave

You say you have a can motor.  If you have a cylindrical motor fitted into a tubular brass housing, this is actually the original Nakamura(sp?) coreless motor.  These motors are undersized for this engine, and were subject to their grease drying.  Thus the motors tended to stall and burn out.  Which may explain why the engine was not properly assembled when you received it. 

John Stutz

On June 29, 2021 1:33 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:


I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737


NCNG #8

Bill M
 

Hi everyone! I'm on the hunt for decent drawings of NCNG #8...

Anyone have anything?
Bill
Show more


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Dave Trimble
 

I’ll give it a try.

Thanks for your help

Dave

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 5:24 PM Mike Chamberlain <mikec6201@...> wrote:
OK . so it is more than just boiler to frame .  Without taking it apart again I do see that the crosshead guides have a screw that attaches them --screw head on top of guides ,  guides set on frame then the washer sets on frame just before screw goes into the frame ....HTH...Mike 

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:57 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
I have understand about the screws by the cab and the screw thru the pilot truck.

My concern is the large brass washer, the fiber washer, a 3/16” tube, and two small screws (one 1/4” and one about 0/32”). These pieces appear to hold the valve gear to the frame.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:42 PM Mike Chamberlain <mikec6201@...> wrote:
2 small slotted screws hold the back or the cab to the frame , and 1 phillips screw about 3/8th inch hold the front of the boiler .  You will have to remove the pilot truck though . Also make sure that the idler gear is plastic otherwise the brass worm and axle gear will eat it ......Mike

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:34 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737


Re: Help with Westside K-37

Mike Chamberlain
 

OK . so it is more than just boiler to frame .  Without taking it apart again I do see that the crosshead guides have a screw that attaches them --screw head on top of guides ,  guides set on frame then the washer sets on frame just before screw goes into the frame ....HTH...Mike 


On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:57 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
I have understand about the screws by the cab and the screw thru the pilot truck.

My concern is the large brass washer, the fiber washer, a 3/16” tube, and two small screws (one 1/4” and one about 0/32”). These pieces appear to hold the valve gear to the frame.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:42 PM Mike Chamberlain <mikec6201@...> wrote:
2 small slotted screws hold the back or the cab to the frame , and 1 phillips screw about 3/8th inch hold the front of the boiler .  You will have to remove the pilot truck though . Also make sure that the idler gear is plastic otherwise the brass worm and axle gear will eat it ......Mike

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 4:34 PM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
I have a Westside K-37 with a cam motor. 

Unfortunately the frame is not attached to the boiler; however, all the screws and washers are supposed to be there.

Can anyone help with how to assemble the frame to the boiler?

Thanks,
Dave Trimble
508-360-3737

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