Date   

Re: Key crankpin size

 

I have a good stock of 5/64 brass hex bought some years ago when still available from K&S.  Anyone here needs some, just send me your address and I'll mail you a piece in a first class envelope. No cost. ........ Ed Weldon


Re: Key crankpin size

jczul36
 

Thanks for the input John,
jc

On Jun 14, 2018, at 7:53 PM, John Stutz <john.c.stutz@...> wrote:

jczul

If recent, they are probably metric, so try some of the standard metric sizes. Preferably in brass, and tried very gently.  Better yet: try matching diameter and pitch against any remaining crank pin screws.

I believe many of the older Japanese built engines used 1/16" Whitworth, which per the table on Wikipedia's British Standard Whitworth(BSW) page is 60 tpi or 1.588mm diameter x 0.432mm pitch.  Unfortunately there is nothing in the US Unified Thread Standard that matches: it is a shade larger than a #0 with a coarser thread than the UNC #1-64 or UNF #2-64.  The ISO metric standard is similar, with a 1.6mm diameter standard thread, but at much finer pitch of .35mm.

However NWSL has (had?) 1/16 BSW taps and dies, now quite expensive, and reported to be easily broken.  If you want to make your own crank pin, I would consider brass or NS for ease of cutting.  If you require steel, get the free machining Ledloy leaded steel alloy.  On second thought: best bet might be to use a stainless steel sleeve cut from hypodermic tubing for the crank pin's bearing surface, with a plain brass screw through the tube.  But this will require very thin wall tubing.

John Stutz

On 06/14/2018 05:15 PM, jczul36 via Groups.Io wrote:
Group, I was wondering if anybody knows what size the crank pin screws are on the C class engines Key did.





Re: Key crankpin size

jczul36
 

Thank you Bob!  


On Jun 15, 2018, at 4:37 AM, Robert Veefkind via Groups.Io <snookdust@...> wrote:

good morning JC     the Key models I have take the 1.4 mm screws    I have a package here from trackside specialties. They are slotted and shouldered and are similar sizes as the old Kemtron screws. Maybe they are still in business. PSC at one time had 1.4 mm side rod screws but they are moving and may not be reopen yet.   Bob Veefkind      " the screw loser"

In a message dated 6/14/2018 8:15:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, zul36@... writes:

Group, I was wondering if anybody knows what size the crank pin screws are on the C class engines Key did.  



Re: Key crankpin size

Robert Veefkind
 

good morning JC     the Key models I have take the 1.4 mm screws    I have a package here from trackside specialties. They are slotted and shouldered and are similar sizes as the old Kemtron screws. Maybe they are still in business. PSC at one time had 1.4 mm side rod screws but they are moving and may not be reopen yet.   Bob Veefkind      " the screw loser"

In a message dated 6/14/2018 8:15:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, zul36@... writes:

Group, I was wondering if anybody knows what size the crank pin screws are on the C class engines Key did.  



Re: Key crankpin size

John Stutz
 

jczul

If recent, they are probably metric, so try some of the standard metric sizes. Preferably in brass, and tried very gently. Better yet: try matching diameter and pitch against any remaining crank pin screws.

I believe many of the older Japanese built engines used 1/16" Whitworth, which per the table on Wikipedia's British Standard Whitworth(BSW) page is 60 tpi or 1.588mm diameter x 0.432mm pitch. Unfortunately there is nothing in the US Unified Thread Standard that matches: it is a shade larger than a #0 with a coarser thread than the UNC #1-64 or UNF #2-64. The ISO metric standard is similar, with a 1.6mm diameter standard thread, but at much finer pitch of .35mm.

However NWSL has (had?) 1/16 BSW taps and dies, now quite expensive, and reported to be easily broken. If you want to make your own crank pin, I would consider brass or NS for ease of cutting. If you require steel, get the free machining Ledloy leaded steel alloy. On second thought: best bet might be to use a stainless steel sleeve cut from hypodermic tubing for the crank pin's bearing surface, with a plain brass screw through the tube. But this will require very thin wall tubing.

John Stutz

On 06/14/2018 05:15 PM, jczul36 via Groups.Io wrote:
Group, I was wondering if anybody knows what size the crank pin screws are on the C class engines Key did.


Key crankpin size

jczul36
 

Group, I was wondering if anybody knows what size the crank pin screws are on the C class engines Key did.  



Re: #18

lloyd lehrer
 

Very nice work, and I agree with Dave if the brass was not next to it, you would not have a clue there was a difference. 

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018, 12:43 PM <Climax@...> wrote:

Nice job Paul.  Only the well informed purest of that locomotive would have ever noticed any difference and I bet they would have needed to compare it to find the differences.  Great Work.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 14, 2018 1:41 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] #18

Lloyd, I know there are Athearn conversion occasionally available on eBay, haven't seen any Kato versions..  I bought an Athearn conversion 8 years ago and was not satisfied with the crude details on the old body shells, lack of DCC or lights, and the oversized trucks.  It didn't clear some of the structures on the layout so I sold it and began converting Bachmann 70t and 44t chassis to HOn3.  For less that half the cost, I got better details, DCC, LED lights and dimensions almost exactly like the SP#1 50t.  Over the next 6 years I converted 34 70t and 2 44t diesels to HOn3.  I sold all but three, the last bringing $455 on eBay.  I haven't done any more for almost 2 years and won't be doing any more.  #18 has been running for 6 years; the only thing new is the sound installation.  For comparison purposes, I have attached photos of the Westside brass model of SP#1 and my 70t version.  The length is 4 ft. longer but all dimensions are the same, i.e. overall width, height above rails, etc.   Paul


--
lloyd lehrer


Re: #18

Climax@...
 


Nice job Paul.  Only the well informed purest of that locomotive would have ever noticed any difference and I bet they would have needed to compare it to find the differences.  Great Work.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 14, 2018 1:41 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] #18

Lloyd, I know there are Athearn conversion occasionally available on eBay, haven't seen any Kato versions..  I bought an Athearn conversion 8 years ago and was not satisfied with the crude details on the old body shells, lack of DCC or lights, and the oversized trucks.  It didn't clear some of the structures on the layout so I sold it and began converting Bachmann 70t and 44t chassis to HOn3.  For less that half the cost, I got better details, DCC, LED lights and dimensions almost exactly like the SP#1 50t.  Over the next 6 years I converted 34 70t and 2 44t diesels to HOn3.  I sold all but three, the last bringing $455 on eBay.  I haven't done any more for almost 2 years and won't be doing any more.  #18 has been running for 6 years; the only thing new is the sound installation.  For comparison purposes, I have attached photos of the Westside brass model of SP#1 and my 70t version.  The length is 4 ft. longer but all dimensions are the same, i.e. overall width, height above rails, etc.   Paul


Re: #18

Paul Sturtz
 

Lloyd, I know there are Athearn conversion occasionally available on eBay, haven't seen any Kato versions..  I bought an Athearn conversion 8 years ago and was not satisfied with the crude details on the old body shells, lack of DCC or lights, and the oversized trucks.  It didn't clear some of the structures on the layout so I sold it and began converting Bachmann 70t and 44t chassis to HOn3.  For less that half the cost, I got better details, DCC, LED lights and dimensions almost exactly like the SP#1 50t.  Over the next 6 years I converted 34 70t and 2 44t diesels to HOn3.  I sold all but three, the last bringing $455 on eBay.  I haven't done any more for almost 2 years and won't be doing any more.  #18 has been running for 6 years; the only thing new is the sound installation.  For comparison purposes, I have attached photos of the Westside brass model of SP#1 and my 70t version.  The length is 4 ft. longer but all dimensions are the same, i.e. overall width, height above rails, etc.   Paul


Re: Messages

Ric Case
 

Steve just wondering if you had any time to cut the track gauges I had requested?
Ric Case 
EBT RR
Hamilton,Ohio
1-513-375-7694


On Feb 6, 2018, at 12:13 AM, Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:

What size rail? and do you want exact 2 foot or Ngauge? Which some folks use as HOn2
-Steve Hatch


Re: #18

lloyd lehrer
 

paul, the old kato HO engine frames can be adapted as they just extended the axles on their trucks.  There is a fellow that converts old chassis to NG 36".  I have two of his locos.  I just can't find the reference.  TRy a google search or hope some other soul has it and pipes up.

lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 5:38 PM, Glenn <ghazel@...> wrote:
What did you do to narrow the trucks to HOn3?

I narrowed a boxcab body for HOn30 using a Kato N chassis. I cut the left hand window off to narrow the HO body. I added styrene strips to widen the Kato body roof for a new HOn30 roof.

Glenn



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 13, 2018 5:52 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] #18

Bachmann HO 70t chassis and frame, body by Roundhouse.  Only the boxcab track cleaner version has end doors.
Paul



--
lloyd lehrer


Re: #18

Glenn
 

What did you do to narrow the trucks to HOn3?

I narrowed a boxcab body for HOn30 using a Kato N chassis. I cut the left hand window off to narrow the HO body. I added styrene strips to widen the Kato body roof for a new HOn30 roof.

Glenn



-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 13, 2018 5:52 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] #18

Bachmann HO 70t chassis and frame, body by Roundhouse.  Only the boxcab track cleaner version has end doors.
Paul


Re: #18

Paul Sturtz
 

Bachmann HO 70t chassis and frame, body by Roundhouse.  Only the boxcab track cleaner version has end doors.
Paul


Re: #18

Glenn
 

I may have missed the original post.
Where did the chassis come from?

Glenn


Re: #18

Doc Bond <boomer1944@...>
 

Very nicely done! Like the old geezer engineer. Weathering superbly done.

Gordon Spalty


Re: #18

Climax@...
 


I am a 100% steam person but to me even that looks really good.  Congratulations on a well done model.
db

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 12, 2018 6:30 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] #18

One more news item and I'll quit.  Old #18, the narrow gauge industrial boxcab diesel is now equipped with sound!  Installed by my son last weekend, it sounds terrific, runs great, all around winner.  Number 18 was the 18th HOn3 diesel conversion I fabricated.
Paul


#18

Paul Sturtz
 

One more news item and I'll quit.  Old #18, the narrow gauge industrial boxcab diesel is now equipped with sound!  Installed by my son last weekend, it sounds terrific, runs great, all around winner.  Number 18 was the 18th HOn3 diesel conversion I fabricated.
Paul


Re: Uintah 2-6-6-2T

Paul Sturtz
 

That's a very good idea although I hadn't planned to go all the way through.  I just might rethink it, thanks!
Paul


Re: Uintah 2-6-6-2T

Climax@...
 

Might I suggest that if you indeed want to do this that you carefully layout the pattern and drill just the outside holes.  Then fit brass tubes filed to fit each hole and after putting them in place, put a drill inside each tube hole and continue drilling through the other side.  This will assure that the holes are perfectly lined up.  To hold the brass tubes I would try to solder them but if unable use Gorilla Super Glue.  A little clean up and you should have the holes you are looking for.
db

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Sturtz
Sent: Jun 12, 2018 11:27 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Uintah 2-6-6-2T

The small enclosed cabs were hot in summer weather and the pipes helped with air flow.  Here is an excellent photo of the rear of #51.  I used this photo to make a scale drawing and a pattern for marking the locations.  However, drilling brass is not easy, don't want to ruin what I have now.  I forgot to post a photo of the cab interior before.
Paul


Re: Uintah 2-6-6-2T

Paul Sturtz
 

The small enclosed cabs were hot in summer weather and the pipes helped with air flow.  Here is an excellent photo of the rear of #51.  I used this photo to make a scale drawing and a pattern for marking the locations.  However, drilling brass is not easy, don't want to ruin what I have now.  I forgot to post a photo of the cab interior before.
Paul

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