Date   

Re: What got you in to HOn3?

Eric Schrowang
 

Hi Craig,
So I got into narrow gauge because I grew up around On3. My grandfather and father were  On3 modelers and as a young boy I had the privilege of getting to know folks like Don Brown of San Juan Engineering , Lee Snover, Charlie Brommer of CHB. Men like this influenced my love of narrow gauge but I have always had a soft place in my heart for HO scale, also my wallet. 
The availability of HO Scale and HOn3 gauge equipment I feel is what has kept me coming back to HOn3, O scale is great, but the cost of equipment is so much higher. 
 If I had one thing to watch for in HOn3 it is converting older locos to DCC. Sometimes it is difficult to find a place to hide decoders even though electronics have gotten so much smaller than they were even 25 years ago.

Thank You
Eric Schrowang

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 11:21 AM Craig Linn <drgw346@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone,

I'm getting ready to do a presentation for my railroad club on "The case for HOn3".  I was going to give my view points, but I thought that it might be cool to get a broader viewpoint from a larger group on what got them into HOn3, and then weave that into my presentation.

So my question for you all:

1). What got you into HOn3?  What appealed to you or what was the driving factor that moved you to HOn3
2). What is the one thing you really love about HOn3?
3). What is the one thing you watch out for in HOn3?

For me I've had a love of narrow gauge since a child, coming on family trips to Colorado and South Dakota's Black Hills as long as I can remember.  The small engines and big mountains really got me hooked.  When Blackstone showed up on scene that pretty much helped push me over the edge for HOn3.

What I really love about HOn3 is the tight nit communities.  I think you might say that about many of the scales, but I do feel like I get a wealth of information from many members of this community.  From Jim Vail to Craig Symington to Mike Conder to.....the list goes on and on....all help with any questions we might have and had been/have been always willing to help each other out.

The one thing to watch out for...be aware of your tolerances.  Whether it be for the tolerances on tunnels or for track work or distances between tracks...make sure you be aware and keep an eye on those tolerances.

Hoping this will generate some discussions and will help out with my presentation.  If you have anything you want to contribute, I'd love to hear your experiences.

Thanks,
Craig Linn 


Re: What got you in to HOn3?

Climax@...
 

Craig:
What got me in the NG.  Well several things.  First of all it is still HO so all the HO scenery, structuers, people, vehicles and  stuff were still useable, in fact I could do both HO and HOn3 on the same railroad, kind of like switch hitter.  On my last RR I did both and actually had an interchange of dual gauge for interest.  On my current RR I run my HO on a completely level layout with a double main line and switches off to several interest points.  The HOn3 on the other had goes loop to loop and varies in height by about a foot.  I can use tighter turns, which allows me a loop to climb through going from the lower FSM ore tipple, past the mining districts, past Electro, behind a huge mine and stamp mill, and on to Mule Pass where a town exists, engine facilities, another mine, cattle yards, and the entrance to the stamp mill tipple is for the HOn3 to deliver ore from the mining district.  The loops can provide me continuous operation, or I can mix in with the several (5) NCE plug in stations to follow trains around the layout.  I agree with you that Blackstone really bought HOn3 into the world of reliability.  It is not for the budget minded person but the detail and operation is exceptional.  I would rather have only one or two running locomotives than a feet of engine house queens just sitting there.  Up until Blackstone came out with reliable DCC motive power I was strictly a DC person and had accumulated 40 brass Narrow gauge models, of which everyone is a display case queen now.  they range from Shays, Climax, Heisler, Dunkirk, to the C series, K series, and PFM articulated's.  The Blackstone rolling stock works great, looks great, is equipped with the proper couplers but still costs a mint per car.  Not everyone can afford a fleet of cars, so either kit or scratch building is an option.  My recommendation is to a newbee is to buy a reliable Blackstone either C or K series locomotive and start building cars, then when able maybe add a Blackstone car.  
I personally like doing scenery, building buildings with the micro light LEDs adn sound.  When I look at what people model I see some layouts with track that covers everything and no scenery.  To me that just isn't right.  I like to make since, take a car from point A to point B is good too, and its operations, a lot of people like that.  Nothing wrong with any aspect of that either.  Some folks like the electrical.  The nice part of Model Railroading is that it is so vast.  Some people can do benchwork, some can do track, some like constructing structures, some are into backdrop painting, some electrical, some into building cars, engines, or scenes.  No matter what a person should enjoy what they do and not consider it a job or push too hard as mistakes will happen and need to be corrected. It is a hobby which can be worked on continuously, part time, seasonal, even put away for periods time and when the mood strikes you take it back out again.  One thing I have done over the years on the bottom of my structures is I write the date I built it.  I have some building that go back into the mid 1960's and you can see the progress in quality.  I sometimes rework some structures and as an example I have a BIS Wirey & Sons set of structures I had on an NMRA Contest module with a FSM copy with full interior of Jacob's Fuel bunker I built back in 1989.  Recently I removed the structures and am updating them with the Micro LED's, about 4 to 6 per structure and mounting them on the new layout.  I am a packrat and never throw out old structures as they can be reworked or combined with something else, like in real life.  
The hobby evolves, can be enjoyed alone or with friends but the most important thing is to remember to stop and smell the roses, in other words don't make it a job, make it enjoyable.
Dave

  -----Original Message----- 
From: Craig Linn
Sent: Jan 16, 2021 11:21 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] What got you in to HOn3?

Hi Everyone,

I'm getting ready to do a presentation for my railroad club on "The case for HOn3".  I was going to give my view points, but I thought that it might be cool to get a broader viewpoint from a larger group on what got them into HOn3, and then weave that into my presentation.

So my question for you all:

1). What got you into HOn3?  What appealed to you or what was the driving factor that moved you to HOn3
2). What is the one thing you really love about HOn3?
3). What is the one thing you watch out for in HOn3?

For me I've had a love of narrow gauge since a child, coming on family trips to Colorado and South Dakota's Black Hills as long as I can remember.  The small engines and big mountains really got me hooked.  When Blackstone showed up on scene that pretty much helped push me over the edge for HOn3.

What I really love about HOn3 is the tight nit communities.  I think you might say that about many of the scales, but I do feel like I get a wealth of information from many members of this community.  From Jim Vail to Craig Symington to Mike Conder to.....the list goes on and on....all help with any questions we might have and had been/have been always willing to help each other out.

The one thing to watch out for...be aware of your tolerances.  Whether it be for the tolerances on tunnels or for track work or distances between tracks...make sure you be aware and keep an eye on those tolerances.

Hoping this will generate some discussions and will help out with my presentation.  If you have anything you want to contribute, I'd love to hear your experiences.

Thanks,
Craig Linn 


White Pass & Yukon decals

Robert Veefkind
 


Are they available for hon3 ? Microscale and Thinfilm do not list them.   Bob veefkind


What got you in to HOn3?

Craig Linn
 

Hi Everyone,

I'm getting ready to do a presentation for my railroad club on "The case for HOn3".  I was going to give my view points, but I thought that it might be cool to get a broader viewpoint from a larger group on what got them into HOn3, and then weave that into my presentation.

So my question for you all:

1). What got you into HOn3?  What appealed to you or what was the driving factor that moved you to HOn3
2). What is the one thing you really love about HOn3?
3). What is the one thing you watch out for in HOn3?

For me I've had a love of narrow gauge since a child, coming on family trips to Colorado and South Dakota's Black Hills as long as I can remember.  The small engines and big mountains really got me hooked.  When Blackstone showed up on scene that pretty much helped push me over the edge for HOn3.

What I really love about HOn3 is the tight nit communities.  I think you might say that about many of the scales, but I do feel like I get a wealth of information from many members of this community.  From Jim Vail to Craig Symington to Mike Conder to.....the list goes on and on....all help with any questions we might have and had been/have been always willing to help each other out.

The one thing to watch out for...be aware of your tolerances.  Whether it be for the tolerances on tunnels or for track work or distances between tracks...make sure you be aware and keep an eye on those tolerances.

Hoping this will generate some discussions and will help out with my presentation.  If you have anything you want to contribute, I'd love to hear your experiences.

Thanks,
Craig Linn 


Re: Sold : Woodland scenics details and Wheel Works trucks

lloyd lehrer
 

again all sold to a single buyer pending payment
lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097


On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 1:52 PM lloyd lehrer via groups.io <lloydlehrer=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
 --scenic details bare metal kits, $20 plus shipping.
--three wheelworks '34 ford bare metal kits $40 Plus shipping
No piecemeal shopping; all of the details and /or all of the fords. 
See images attached.
Paypal friends or venmo
lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097

--
lloyd lehrer


--
lloyd lehrer


FS: Woodland scenics details and Wheel Works trucks

lloyd lehrer
 

 --scenic details bare metal kits, $20 plus shipping.
--three wheelworks '34 ford bare metal kits $40 Plus shipping
No piecemeal shopping; all of the details and /or all of the fords. 
See images attached.
Paypal friends or venmo
lloyd lehrer, MANHATTAN BEACH, CA (310)951-9097

--
lloyd lehrer


Re: Test my track

Jim Marlett
 

Yes, I backed a train up my stuff too, but it sure made me nervous. If something had gone wrong, the floor is concrete and way to easily reached - no scenery. And it’s all that high priced HOn3.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Jan 11, 2021, at 1:45 PM, Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:

Here's how I test my track work to make sure there are no flaws.

https://youtu.be/IFe0V4rj9gw

So far so good.


Re: Difficult Spikes

Jim Marlett
 

I’m 75 years old and my wife thinks I’m crazy for hand laying this layout. She may be right, but I enjoy it, at least when it works. I think Micro Engineering flex track probably looks better and is easier to lay. Maybe I’ll give in before this is all over. I think if I were to start over, I would use code 55 flex with hand laid switches, but I already have too much code 70. I thought about mixing them, but code 55 makes my code 70 look even bigger. I’ll just stick with the big stuff and hope not too many people notice,

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

On Jan 11, 2021, at 6:18 PM, Climax@mindspring.com <Climax@Mindspring.com> wrote:

When I use to lay my own C70 rail and make my own switches etc I spiked every 7th tie. I first drilled .012 holes on either side of the rail, then pushed in the c70 spikes. I lost a lot that went to never never land and were never found, but for the most part it all worked out just fine. Now days, and at 74, my eye sight is not as good as it once was, probably to many hits the eye with flying spikes, sp I use Shinohara Flex track and switches. I still do make special things like gauge separation and special use switches though. I just figure that today I got better things to do than mumble under my breath after another spike disappears.

Dave


Sad News - Mike Schwab has passed on

drgw169
 

Hello All,

This message is little tardy.

Mike Schwab left us on Friday morning from a heart attack.   Though most of his modeling for the past decade or more was in Sn3, he had converted from HOn3 after building several layouts.  Mike also was active in O scale building structures and dioramas.   His conversion from HOn3 to Sn3 darn near broke Jim Vail's heart as that left Jim the only HOn3 guy in the local narrow gauge group.

What follows was also posted to the Sn3 group and the On3 group.   He is already missed in our local group.

Mike was a prolific builder with absolutely no fear of having to tear something out and do it again.   He loved scenery and structures, and anyone who saw any of his various HOn3 layouts or his several different versions of the Sn3 San Lorenzo Southern would certainly attest to his excellence at both.   His rolling stock was darn nice too.   Mike did draw the line at engine work though, leaving those modifications and DCC installations/upgrades to others (unless it was a PBL Foreground model which did not need any work).  

 

Mike did not limit his building to only one scale, and in the structures and diorama area built beautiful models and scenes in O scale along with On3 and On3 dioramas and was collecting items to work on a little HO standard gauge scene.   I also think Mike had collected some N scale as well with some thought of seeing what it was like to build in that scale.

 

As Mike's layout room was about two thirds of a two car garage (the other third being laundry, household storage and similar) he was a master at figuring out new ways to store what he was building if there was no spot on the layout for it.   The valence above the layout held a lot of structures, such as all the O Scale D&RGW and RGS Depots he could not resist.   Dioramas were built on wheeled tables that could be stored under the layout bench work.   Other completed models were stored in tall cabinets on wheels which were built like furniture.   These cabinets were both in the 1/3 space of the garage and in the house. At some point Mike gained the space rights to hang a boxed in double ended staging yard on the partition wall in the family garage space that served as the end points of his railroad. Mike was an unstoppable builder!

 

A little over a year ago Mike decided he needed to tear out and rethink part of his layout to better accommodate some of his physical impairments, provide a little more switching in operation sessions and accommodate some more structures he really wanted to use, and make his modeling work benches and supply storage much more user friendly.  Mike works fast, and in short order had the structural and track changes in place so he could have a few of us over for a "test op session"   This happened just before the COVID 19 stay at home orders were issued in the SF Bay Area Counties. That test session showed this new version of the San Lorenzo Southern would be fun to operate, and get even better as Mike put in his gorgeous scenery and well composed scenes.  In the following months, email exchanges were used to develop the train schedule, employee time table, train line ups and  other paper to support TT&TO operations.   Most recently, Mike took and break from structure building to get the layout tuned up for operating session with plan of getting back into the rotation once the Vaccine has deployed and the medical experts announced it was safe to meet again.   Mike's love of operations I suspect stems from him being one of Jim Vail's early model railroad buddies, even adopting and using Jim's unique car card system for  decades before a more recent conversion to the more common car card and waybill system.

 

I am pretty much a lurker on the narrow gauge ioGroups, but was always struck by the number of times Mike would post just to congratulate or thank  someone on a model they posted a picture of to the group.   That's just who Mike is.   His sense of humor, infectious laugh, willingness to pitch in and help out, his encouragement to keep building, and his always up beat personality will be missed by many of us.   A true Gentleman.   There is so much more to say.

 

Thanks for your kind thoughts of Mike and his family.

 

Dave Adams

 

D&RGW Durlin Branch in On3


Re: Difficult Spikes

Climax@...
 

When I use to lay my own C70 rail and make my own switches etc I spiked every 7th tie. I first drilled .012 holes on either side of the rail, then pushed in the c70 spikes. I lost a lot that went to never never land and were never found, but for the most part it all worked out just fine. Now days, and at 74, my eye sight is not as good as it once was, probably to many hits the eye with flying spikes, sp I use Shinohara Flex track and switches. I still do make special things like gauge separation and special use switches though. I just figure that today I got better things to do than mumble under my breath after another spike disappears.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Marlett <jmarlett@cox.net>
Sent: Jan 11, 2021 7:06 PM
To: HOn3 Group <HOn3@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Difficult Spikes

They must sell those “small” spikes to O scale folks using code 100 and larger rail. Sure took a lot of effort to make them work for code 70 rail.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Jan 11, 2021, at 12:57 PM, jczul36 via groups.io <zul36=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I use to use micro engineering, but stopped using their spikes when I laid code 55. I began using proto 87 long spikes and loved them. They are sharp and the heads are really small. I even used them the on Code 40 spur. The spike heads are small enough that my flanges do not touch the spike heads. Couldn’t achieve this with Micro engineering spikes.
jc
<ea1.png>





Re: Difficult Spikes

Jim Marlett
 

They must sell those “small” spikes to O scale folks using code 100 and larger rail. Sure took a lot of effort to make them work for code 70 rail.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/

On Jan 11, 2021, at 12:57 PM, jczul36 via groups.io <zul36=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I use to use micro engineering, but stopped using their spikes when I laid code 55. I began using proto 87 long spikes and loved them. They are sharp and the heads are really small. I even used them the on Code 40 spur. The spike heads are small enough that my flanges do not touch the spike heads. Couldn’t achieve this with Micro engineering spikes.
jc
<ea1.png>


Re: Test my track

RG Teeter
 

I hope the guy on the front end has a radio !!!

Florida Bob, was Texas Bob

On 11 Jan 2021, at 14:45, Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:

Here's how I test my track work to make sure there are no flaws.

https://youtu.be/IFe0V4rj9gw

So far so good.


Re: Difficult Spikes _ Thank You, Steve Hatch

Steve Hatch
 

   Your sure welcome Jim.
It's great that it works for you.
-Steve


Test my track

Steve Hatch
 

Here's how I test my track work to make sure there are no flaws.

https://youtu.be/IFe0V4rj9gw

So far so good.


Re: Difficult Spikes

jczul36
 

I use to use micro engineering, but stopped using their spikes when I laid code 55.  I began using proto 87 long spikes and loved them.  They are sharp and the heads are really small.  I even used them the on Code 40 spur.  The spike heads are small enough that my flanges do not touch the spike heads.  Couldn’t achieve this with Micro engineering spikes.
jc  

On Jan 11, 2021, at 10:10 AM, Jim Spencer <trainmanjs@...> wrote:

It sound to me like Micro Engineering could solve this by cutting the staples apart on an angle instead of 90 degrees.

Having said that, I’ve learned how to drive them using needle nose pliers with serrated points while gripping the spike and head about 2/3rds from the tip. They are far less likely to bend.


Re: Difficult Spikes

Jim Spencer
 

It sound to me like Micro Engineering could solve this by cutting the staples apart on an angle instead of 90 degrees.

Having said that, I’ve learned how to drive them using needle nose pliers with serrated points while gripping the spike and head about 2/3rds from the tip. They are far less likely to bend.


Re: Difficult Spikes _ Thank You, Steve Hatch

Jim Marlett
 

I tried it and it worked! I’m a micros spike guy now.

I still bend more than with small spikes, but the success rate is way up. I’d suggest that anyone with a bunch of micro spikes sitting around give it a try. I weighted my Dremel tool down with a section of light rail from a full sized railroad and instead of a cut off wheel used a thicker wheel, but it all worked.

Thanks, Steve!

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Jan 11, 2021, at 12:13 AM, Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:

  The micro spikes will shove in really nice if you sharpen them.
I have a small dremel with a cut off disc sitting right beside me as I spike.
I touch the very end of the spike against the wheel for just a second
on an angle to put a chisel shape to the end.
  I do this with each and every one as I pick up the spike in the plier and touch
it diagonally to the disc to form the chisel and then insert it in the roadbed as normal.
Some reason the micro spikes are blunt on the end and do not insert well without
that slight taper at the end.  It's a minor move after you get used to it.
  They spike really well then and I can get the rail and spike nice and tight.
Try it and let me know if it works for you.
My railroad here is 20 by 46 feet and it's all laid in 55 and spiked that way.
 It didn't take all that long once I got used to the extra move.  (grind wheel)
Sure hope that helps
-Steve Hatch


Re: Difficult Spikes

Climax@...
 

Sharpening spikes with a dremel?  I I'll need a remote pilot license to fly all those spikes around the room!
DAve

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hatch
Sent: Jan 11, 2021 1:13 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Difficult Spikes

  The micro spikes will shove in really nice if you sharpen them.
I have a small dremel with a cut off disc sitting right beside me as I spike.
I touch the very end of the spike against the wheel for just a second
on an angle to put a chisel shape to the end.
  I do this with each and every one as I pick up the spike in the plier and touch
it diagonally to the disc to form the chisel and then insert it in the roadbed as normal.
Some reason the micro spikes are blunt on the end and do not insert well without
that slight taper at the end.  It's a minor move after you get used to it.
  They spike really well then and I can get the rail and spike nice and tight.
Try it and let me know if it works for you.
My railroad here is 20 by 46 feet and it's all laid in 55 and spiked that way.
 It didn't take all that long once I got used to the extra move.  (grind wheel)
Sure hope that helps
-Steve Hatch


Spiking the world

Steve Hatch
 

These videos will give a good indication of how much hand spiking I did on this new RR.
Even the code 70 has the little Micro spikes all chisel pointed.  I really encourage you
to try it  This railroad was started in July 2016.  So it's been just four years so far.

Click this link
All the videos of my hand spiked RR

Steve


Re: STOP STOP

Steve Hatch
 

 yeah you guys need to come over friday and run trains and swig away.
The locals will be here and we'll have a time.
-Where's barkeep?

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