Date   

Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Climax@...
 

Imagine the bounce that happended when the Bigboys 4-8-8-4's too up the slack on hundred car train.  There must have been several car lengths of slack over that much.  Lots of broken couplers too.

-----Original Message-----
From: claneon30
Sent: Dec 20, 2020 4:28 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Yes and no. Yes, real trains often have springs built into the draftgear, and there is “runout” as the train stretches. But the bounce of the HO kadees is wholly out of scale, and unlike the prototype and its great weight, the cars run in and out as they are being pulled on the layout, giving a most unrealistic visual.


Chris Lane - Editor HOn3 Annual



On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:31 PM Robert Bell via groups.io <ionhoss=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.






--
Wayne Taylor


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Steen Mortensen
 

I might join U


On Dec 20, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:

I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.



Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

hiroechan
 

I've put the new 705's on over a hundred cars so far, and they do drastically reduce the slack-action that causes bouncing,
They also will mate with the Sergents pretty easily if you line them up correctly. 

--Drew McCann

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 4:58 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Using a long string of BS hoppers I can imitate the slack when I start and stop.  But once the train is rolling the cars, and especially the caboose, are constantly bobbing back and forth.  I have read articles that suggest using wires that lightly drag on the caboose wheels to reduce the bouncing.

Russ  Norris 


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020, 4:28 PM claneon30 <chrislaneon30@...> wrote:
Yes and no. Yes, real trains often have springs built into the draftgear, and there is “runout” as the train stretches. But the bounce of the HO kadees is wholly out of scale, and unlike the prototype and its great weight, the cars run in and out as they are being pulled on the layout, giving a most unrealistic visual.


Chris Lane - Editor HOn3 Annual



On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Wayne
 

I can't find the source now but years ago I read that the extra pair of larger and shorter bronze springs included in the KaDee spring capsule that comes with the couplers is for eliminating the "bounce".  You place 1 spring on each truck, on one axle between the outer edge of the wheel and the inner face of the journal box.  This creates a tiny amount of drag to eliminate the bounce.  I simply make my cars heavier, to simulate real loads and to "grab" the rails better, especially when going through turnouts.


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 2:58 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Using a long string of BS hoppers I can imitate the slack when I start and stop.  But once the train is rolling the cars, and especially the caboose, are constantly bobbing back and forth.  I have read articles that suggest using wires that lightly drag on the caboose wheels to reduce the bouncing.

Russ  Norris 


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020, 4:28 PM claneon30 <chrislaneon30@...> wrote:
Yes and no. Yes, real trains often have springs built into the draftgear, and there is “runout” as the train stretches. But the bounce of the HO kadees is wholly out of scale, and unlike the prototype and its great weight, the cars run in and out as they are being pulled on the layout, giving a most unrealistic visual.


Chris Lane - Editor HOn3 Annual



On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:31 PM Robert Bell via groups.io <ionhoss=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.






--
Wayne Taylor


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/



--
Wayne Taylor


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Russ Norris
 

Using a long string of BS hoppers I can imitate the slack when I start and stop.  But once the train is rolling the cars, and especially the caboose, are constantly bobbing back and forth.  I have read articles that suggest using wires that lightly drag on the caboose wheels to reduce the bouncing.

Russ  Norris 


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020, 4:28 PM claneon30 <chrislaneon30@...> wrote:
Yes and no. Yes, real trains often have springs built into the draftgear, and there is “runout” as the train stretches. But the bounce of the HO kadees is wholly out of scale, and unlike the prototype and its great weight, the cars run in and out as they are being pulled on the layout, giving a most unrealistic visual.


Chris Lane - Editor HOn3 Annual



On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:31 PM Robert Bell via groups.io <ionhoss=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.






--
Wayne Taylor


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

claneon30
 

Yes and no. Yes, real trains often have springs built into the draftgear, and there is “runout” as the train stretches. But the bounce of the HO kadees is wholly out of scale, and unlike the prototype and its great weight, the cars run in and out as they are being pulled on the layout, giving a most unrealistic visual.


Chris Lane - Editor HOn3 Annual



On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:31 PM Robert Bell via groups.io <ionhoss=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.






--
Wayne Taylor


Re: DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

George A.Nefstead Sr.
 

I have done 3 conversions of this type in similar models  ( Sumpter Valley # 250 & 251 ) both of the have tenders but the drives are the same. NWSL suggestion of using an hi/low gear box system is O.K. Only that a HOn3 model is a bit tight for their gear tower castings . And the distance between towers may be too short for proper operation. Also the boiler will need to be modified to accommodate for the forward engine swing and assembly of the model.
As for replacement of the failed gear,  Which gear has failed? The axel gear? Or one of the tower gears? I may have the gears in my spare parts drawer that I removed from my conversions if you’re interested? Let me know.

Geo.....


On Dec 20, 2020, at 12:36 PM, cmdrwmriker <banjobill@q.com> wrote:

I am sitting here looking at my PFM 2-6-6-2.  I have it apart; it is unpainted, and I have a split gear on the drive mechanism.  I am ignorant of most of what I have read here about gear sizes, etc.  I contacted NWSL and they did not have the replacement gear but suggested I use one of their Hi-Lo drives.  Ok, now you know where I have been.  The question is about DCC.  There is not much empty space in this model.  But, if I am going to use it, which I would very much like to do, I would want DCC and sound.  And LED lighting.  And a keep alive circuit!  LOL!  talk about 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag!  I am thinking if the boiler weight is removed, there may be enough room for the electronics (a TSU2 will fit inside)-the speaker can be in the coal bin (no tube vents-or maybe fake ones).  Actually, looking at the coal bin, perhaps if I cut open the bottom of it, there would be enough room for a sugar cube inside and then I could multiply the vent tube "holes" to let the sound out.  This would be almost easy if there were no wires.  The water tanks can be filled with liquid gravity or some other heavy material to recapture the mass of the boiler weight.  Has anyone out there done this modification? If so, a photo or two or a billion words would be appreciated.
ol' bill
P.S.  as an "out" I do have an aux water car...almost makes the mod easy...Except for those dang wires! 


Re: DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

Paul Sturtz
 

I used NWSL Part# 2214-6 and 2215-6 to replace the broken gears in my URY 2-6-6-2 but not sure if they still list them.  Also added ventilation tubes to the coal bunker per prototype photos.
Paul


Re: DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

Mick Moignard
 

Whatever you do, put the speaker in the smokebox where it should be.  Not in the tender or bunker on the tank locos, that’s where the decoder can go. 

I’ve dealt with a few of these with split gears and in fact have one here as I write.  I’ve used NWSL gears, possibly 148-6 or 158-6 as suggested by https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0250/4032/2669/files/Gears_1_2.pdf?263 but I can’t remember for sure.

Mick
________________________________
Mick Moignard
m: +44 7774 652504
Skype: mickmoignard

The week may start M,T but it always ends WTF.


Re: DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

cmdrwmriker
 

Here is an associated question: Does anyone out there have a NWSL 2214-6 and a NWSL 2215-6 that could be sold?  these are the two numbers of the gears it takes to repair the original PFM/United Drive.  Obtaining these would be a great help.
Thank you in advance,
bill


Re: Grant Line 5235 - C&S Caboose #1005

Robert Bell
 

Bodo,
Here are 4 picts of my Grandt Line C&S caboose.  The pedestals have come off and I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet, but the brake rigging is intact.  Hope these help!

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

Inline image


Inline image

Inline image

Inline image

On Tuesday, December 15, 2020, 06:52:04 PM EST, Bodo Rasler <raslerb@...> wrote:


Hello group,

maybe someone can be of help. The instructions for this model are very elaborate - many pages! However, not necessarily clear - not to talk about the drawings!

I am having some problems with the underbody detailing. Does anyone know a link to a movie? I found nothing when googling.

The Break lever assembly (7a) is supposed to attach to a part that is nowhere mentioned in the drawings or part list. Can it be that it has to be glues UNDER (10) Brake shoes / hangers assy?

Does anyone have photos of a finished model from below?

Thanks
Bodo Rasler
Berlin / Germany


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Wayne
 

Isn't the so-called "bounce" actually a replication of the way prototype trains work?  Every time I've watched trains start to move, including the Durango & Silverton and the Cumbres & Toltec, once the engine start in motion the slack between cars is noticeably taken up before they start to move.   That is why I prefer the KaDee couplers over all others.


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:31 PM Robert Bell via groups.io <ionhoss=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.




--
Wayne Taylor


Re: DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

Climax@...
 

You would be better off putting the DCC, Sound, and lighting units in the tender and leaving the weights and motors alone in the PFM Locomotive.  The highlow gear is about the best you can find, unless you find a Sierra or Unitah 2-6-6-2 in need of a major rebuild where you can rob the parts off of it.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: cmdrwmriker
Sent: Dec 20, 2020 1:36 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

I am sitting here looking at my PFM 2-6-6-2.  I have it apart; it is unpainted, and I have a split gear on the drive mechanism.  I am ignorant of most of what I have read here about gear sizes, etc.  I contacted NWSL and they did not have the replacement gear but suggested I use one of their Hi-Lo drives.  Ok, now you know where I have been.  The question is about DCC.  There is not much empty space in this model.  But, if I am going to use it, which I would very much like to do, I would want DCC and sound.  And LED lighting.  And a keep alive circuit!  LOL!  talk about 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag!  I am thinking if the boiler weight is removed, there may be enough room for the electronics (a TSU2 will fit inside)-the speaker can be in the coal bin (no tube vents-or maybe fake ones).  Actually, looking at the coal bin, perhaps if I cut open the bottom of it, there would be enough room for a sugar cube inside and then I could multiply the vent tube "holes" to let the sound out.  This would be almost easy if there were no wires.  The water tanks can be filled with liquid gravity or some other heavy material to recapture the mass of the boiler weight.  Has anyone out there done this modification? If so, a photo or two or a billion words would be appreciated.
ol' bill
P.S.  as an "out" I do have an aux water car...almost makes the mod easy...Except for those dang wires! 


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Robert Bell
 

Jim Marlett,
To get rid of the coupler "bounce", simply install two of the springs rolled together - slightly (4-5 coils) offset.  I have made this my norm and don't get any bounce anymore.

Rob Bell
Modeling the White Pass & Yukon Route in HOn3
Waynesville, NC

On Sunday, December 20, 2020, 12:18:02 PM EST, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.



DCC and Uintah 2-6-6-2

cmdrwmriker
 

I am sitting here looking at my PFM 2-6-6-2.  I have it apart; it is unpainted, and I have a split gear on the drive mechanism.  I am ignorant of most of what I have read here about gear sizes, etc.  I contacted NWSL and they did not have the replacement gear but suggested I use one of their Hi-Lo drives.  Ok, now you know where I have been.  The question is about DCC.  There is not much empty space in this model.  But, if I am going to use it, which I would very much like to do, I would want DCC and sound.  And LED lighting.  And a keep alive circuit!  LOL!  talk about 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag!  I am thinking if the boiler weight is removed, there may be enough room for the electronics (a TSU2 will fit inside)-the speaker can be in the coal bin (no tube vents-or maybe fake ones).  Actually, looking at the coal bin, perhaps if I cut open the bottom of it, there would be enough room for a sugar cube inside and then I could multiply the vent tube "holes" to let the sound out.  This would be almost easy if there were no wires.  The water tanks can be filled with liquid gravity or some other heavy material to recapture the mass of the boiler weight.  Has anyone out there done this modification? If so, a photo or two or a billion words would be appreciated.
ol' bill
P.S.  as an "out" I do have an aux water car...almost makes the mod easy...Except for those dang wires! 


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Earl Knoob
 

It should be pointed out that the D&RGW and other Colorado narrow gauge roads used full sized MCB couplers.  The coupler uses the same profile as any standard gauge coupler.  This profile is the same today as it was in 1900.

There were various manufacturers of couplers the built couplers of different "mass", but they all had the same knuckle profile.  the biggest coupler in mass is the "AAR" coupler.  You find this mostly on converted standard gauge cars like the 6500 class flats and 9600 class pipe-gons.  The smallest being the "passenger Janney" that was used on all the passenger equipment.  

Still... they all couple together.  Next time you are in Durango find an open gon (former 9600 pipe gon with AAR couplers) coupled to a San Juan vestibuled car (with a Passenger Janney coupler).  It looks like an HO standard gauge Kadee coupled to an N scale coupler.

I recall both AAR and Sharons on K-36's, both front and back.

Someone should measure up all the available HO couplers on the market and compare them to the prototype dimensions.


From: HOn3@groups.io <HOn3@groups.io> on behalf of John Niemeyer <reverend455@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 10:55 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io Group Moderators <HOn3@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS
 
I've been using Sergent Sharons for years. While doing research for the 2014 HOn3 Annual article. I found very few narrow gauge equipment that used standard gauge couplers. They were K-36, K-37, class 23 - 41 foot flats and some MOW. Most everything else was either Sharon or Miller that is the same size as a Sharon.

The Sergent doesn't have any couper "bob" and I was able to get a fit in everything that I own. Not possible with Kadee. However Sergents aren't for everybody, but then, neither are Kadees. They both have their plus and minus.
John Niemeyer

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 11:18 AM Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:
I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.



Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

John Niemeyer
 

I've been using Sergent Sharons for years. While doing research for the 2014 HOn3 Annual article. I found very few narrow gauge equipment that used standard gauge couplers. They were K-36, K-37, class 23 - 41 foot flats and some MOW. Most everything else was either Sharon or Miller that is the same size as a Sharon.

The Sergent doesn't have any couper "bob" and I was able to get a fit in everything that I own. Not possible with Kadee. However Sergents aren't for everybody, but then, neither are Kadees. They both have their plus and minus.
John Niemeyer


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 11:18 AM Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:
I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.



Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Wayne
 

Yes, the KaDee/Microscale N scale couplers are identical to the KaDee #714s, only scaled down.  I use the same assembly jig for both.


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 10:18 AM Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:
I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.




--
Wayne Taylor


Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Jim Marlett
 

I would really like to get rid of the Kadee bounce. Admittedly, I am not a rivet counter and am much more into smooth operation. My feeling is that Kadee/Microscale N scale couplers are still the same design as the Kadee #714. I would gladly stick with 714s if it weren’t for the bounce, and so far I have. But I really hate that bounce. I guess I should just buy a few of the various other kinds and see what I like.

Jim Marlett
http://flatheaddrag.com/
http://jimmarlett.zenfolio.com/


On Dec 20, 2020, at 10:38 AM, Wayne <waynewtaylorii@...> wrote:

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.



Re: Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS

Wayne
 

KaDee HOn3 couplers look way out of proportion on HOn3 rolling stock.  I use Kadee N scale couplers, which are now made by Micro Trains Line (1025).  They look more realistic than the HOn3 couplers and will grip any rolling stock that has an HOn3 coupler perfectly and will also uncouple without any problem.  Being smaller, they also work better on the rolling stock where the coupler size interferes
with the swivel of the trucks.


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 9:17 AM Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:
Most Colorado narrow gauge railroads used standard gauge couplers. The question really is whether Kadee’s narrow gauge couplers are actually standard gauge size and the so-called “scale" #158s are actually still oversized for standard gauge couplers. Or does it matter that much.

The question I have of #158 users is are there any problems associated with their use. I’m thinking of springs being too strong for the weight of the car and issues with electrical conductivity on Blackstone products. It looks like they would be a darned sight easier to use as #714 replacements than the new #705s.

On Dec 18, 2020, at 6:13 PM, Bodo Rasler <raslerb@...> wrote:

Ray,
 
the head looks to me like HO size and not HOn3…
 
Bodo
 
From: HOn3@groups.io [mailto:HOn3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Ray
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2020 00:34
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Couplers for Precision Scale HOn3 BRASS
 
I suggest Kadee #158 couplers.  They are dimensionally the same as the #714 couplers.  They don't droop and don't have to be assembled.
-- 
Ray in Colorado 




--
Wayne Taylor

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