Date   

Re: did anybody make their own truck journal tuning tool?

Mike Conder
 

Oh that's a brilliant idea ... I'd love one if it works!

Mike Conder

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 11:27 AM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I have ordered a 1/8" diameter 2-flute 60 degree carbide end mill.  My plan is to shorten it to .33" then press on an end I designed and 3D printed.  See photos.  $11.18 (and $8.50 shipping).  If it works the printed end's length could be modified for different trucks if needed.

At least, that's my plan.

I'll let the group know how it works out.


With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...


Re: truck journal tuning tool

Climax@...
 

Center drill.  Used in machine shops mostly in a lathe to precisely position a hole for either the dead or live center to be placed when turning the stock.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Sep 27, 2020 8:50 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] truck journal tuning tool

It stops cutting because there is no cutting edge on the very tip. Just the point of the pivoting tip. The cutting edge (Only 1 flute) of the blade is aligned with the angle of the cone edge. There is a name for this kind Drill blade but I don’t know what it is.

Shop Chief

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 18:01 lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:
The reboxx instructions says it stops cutting when its removed the excess material and arrived at the proper angle. So there must be something in the shape that stops the cutting. If it was just a drill flute I cant see that happening.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 6:50 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.












--
lloyd lehrer










Re: Tortoise side mounting???

Ric Case
 

I have used the factory remote mounts for these types of mounts! 
They worked out great. 
Ive also used these for crossover links to throw two turnouts with one tortoise machine! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 27, 2020, at 7:46 PM, lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:


Mount the upside down at the back wall and use a rod to link the throw under the roadbed

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 3:51 PM asandrini <asandrini@...> wrote:
I have only 12" between my middle and upper deck.  The center shelf is 15" deep, while the upper shelf is 22" deep. With a 3" fascia, I can see the bottom half of two tortoise machines located near the front edge of the shelf.

I have had to embed two machines in my lower level in 2" foam and used R/C bell ranks to change the direction of force from the machine to the turnout. Works perfectly.

My center shelf has no foam to surface mount the machine, nor do I have the space to rig up a bellcrank system.

I was wondering: 

Glue a block of 1x2 under the turnout, beneath the subroadbed

Mount the machine with the moving mechanism facing up

Heated a piece of wire and insert it into the moving black block 

Run the end of the wire up to the turnout throwbar

Would this work?

I might need to use a finer wire, as the length of throw may be too much.  The lighter wire would increase in pressure at the end limits to about the same stress as the larger wire in the normal operating position.


Any ideas?

Al



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.



--
lloyd lehrer


Re: truck journal tuning tool

Ric Case
 

Lloyd I have one each and find they both stop cutting when they reach 
The length of the tool!
They will continue to cut if you apply slight pressure between your finger tips. The one I just finished spins free in the journals , I just apply slight pressure to cut as much as I need! I find each truck is slightly different. Thus the reason I cut it a little short! Hopefully this will help with your questions! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:30 PM, Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:

Bruce just turned one especially for the CBT trucks! Using Hoffman wheel sets! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 27, 2020, at 8:01 PM, lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:


The reboxx instructions says it stops cutting when its removed the excess material and arrived at the proper angle. So there must be something in the shape that stops the cutting. If it was just a drill flute I cant see that happening.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 6:50 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.


--
lloyd lehrer


Re: truck journal tuning tool

Ric Case
 

Bruce just turned one especially for the CBT trucks! Using Hoffman wheel sets! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Sep 27, 2020, at 8:01 PM, lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:


The reboxx instructions says it stops cutting when its removed the excess material and arrived at the proper angle. So there must be something in the shape that stops the cutting. If it was just a drill flute I cant see that happening.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 6:50 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.


--
lloyd lehrer


Truck tuner

Ric Case
 

Did six axle sets in about 15 minutes!
Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694


Truck tuner

Ric Case
 

Turned this one from 3/16 “ brass stock.
Cut the groove with my dremel cutoff wheel!
I used the wheel set to determine the length!
The one I purchased is way too long for the cbt truck frame!
It is fine for the old MDC frames!







Added piece of surgical tube for grip
Ric Case
EBT Modeler
Hamilton Ohio
1-513-375-7694


Re: truck journal tuning tool

Dale Buxton
 

It stops cutting because there is no cutting edge on the very tip. Just the point of the pivoting tip. The cutting edge (Only 1 flute) of the blade is aligned with the angle of the cone edge. There is a name for this kind Drill blade but I don’t know what it is.

Shop Chief

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 18:01 lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:
The reboxx instructions says it stops cutting when its removed the excess material and arrived at the proper angle. So there must be something in the shape that stops the cutting. If it was just a drill flute I cant see that happening.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 6:50 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.












--
lloyd lehrer










Re: truck journal tuning tool

lloyd lehrer
 

The reboxx instructions says it stops cutting when its removed the excess material and arrived at the proper angle. So there must be something in the shape that stops the cutting. If it was just a drill flute I cant see that happening.

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 6:50 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.


--
lloyd lehrer


Re: Tortoise side mounting???

lloyd lehrer
 

Mount the upside down at the back wall and use a rod to link the throw under the roadbed

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 3:51 PM asandrini <asandrini@...> wrote:
I have only 12" between my middle and upper deck.  The center shelf is 15" deep, while the upper shelf is 22" deep. With a 3" fascia, I can see the bottom half of two tortoise machines located near the front edge of the shelf.

I have had to embed two machines in my lower level in 2" foam and used R/C bell ranks to change the direction of force from the machine to the turnout. Works perfectly.

My center shelf has no foam to surface mount the machine, nor do I have the space to rig up a bellcrank system.

I was wondering: 

Glue a block of 1x2 under the turnout, beneath the subroadbed

Mount the machine with the moving mechanism facing up

Heated a piece of wire and insert it into the moving black block 

Run the end of the wire up to the turnout throwbar

Would this work?

I might need to use a finer wire, as the length of throw may be too much.  The lighter wire would increase in pressure at the end limits to about the same stress as the larger wire in the normal operating position.


Any ideas?

Al



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.



--
lloyd lehrer


Tortoise side mounting???

asandrini
 

I have only 12" between my middle and upper deck.  The center shelf is 15" deep, while the upper shelf is 22" deep. With a 3" fascia, I can see the bottom half of two tortoise machines located near the front edge of the shelf.

I have had to embed two machines in my lower level in 2" foam and used R/C bell ranks to change the direction of force from the machine to the turnout. Works perfectly.

My center shelf has no foam to surface mount the machine, nor do I have the space to rig up a bellcrank system.

I was wondering: 

Glue a block of 1x2 under the turnout, beneath the subroadbed

Mount the machine with the moving mechanism facing up

Heated a piece of wire and insert it into the moving black block 

Run the end of the wire up to the turnout throwbar

Would this work?

I might need to use a finer wire, as the length of throw may be too much.  The lighter wire would increase in pressure at the end limits to about the same stress as the larger wire in the normal operating position.


Any ideas?

Al



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.



Division Point caboose

k27bry
 

Hey Guys ,
                 Anyone have a DP Rio Grande 0540 in Flying Grande that might be excess to your needs ? If so , please drop a line - would like to buy one .
                                               Thanks,
                                                           Bryan


Re: Key c-18 # 316

jczul36
 

I have only opened the tender on one(319).  I put PFM sound back in 1988 and added a cam to the engine.  I did use an x-acto #11 no different than Mick.  However, I also remember having to solder inner brackets to make the shell removable.  This forced me to strip and repaint the tender.
jc


On Sep 27, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Jim Spencer <trainmanjs@...> wrote:



I have 316 and 319, both professionally painted (one by Jerry Spoelma). I suspected that the tender shell could be removed with a single edge razor, but no way was I going to compromise that work (they were painted long before Tsunamis and sound). So I used the coal bunker for both a Micro Tsunami and a built-up keep alive. Atop them and all the wiring, I put a sheet of lead cut to fit the coal bunker. And then atop that I created a brass tray painted black and filled it with crushed coal.  

The rest about opening up the locos is very aptly described by Mick. Not easy!

Jim


Re: Key c-18 # 316

Jim Spencer
 

I have 316 and 319, both professionally painted (one by Jerry Spoelma). I suspected that the tender shell could be removed with a single edge razor, but no way was I going to compromise that work (they were painted long before Tsunamis and sound). So I used the coal bunker for both a Micro Tsunami and a built-up keep alive. Atop them and all the wiring, I put a sheet of lead cut to fit the coal bunker. And then atop that I created a brass tray painted black and filled it with crushed coal.  

The rest about opening up the locos is very aptly described by Mick. Not easy!

Jim


Re: did anybody make their own truck journal tuning tool?

Russ Norris
 

I'll spring for one Bruce.

Russ

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 1:27 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I have ordered a 1/8" diameter 2-flute 60 degree carbide end mill.  My plan is to shorten it to .33" then press on an end I designed and 3D printed.  See photos.  $11.18 (and $8.50 shipping).  If it works the printed end's length could be modified for different trucks if needed.

At least, that's my plan.

I'll let the group know how it works out.


With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: did anybody make their own truck journal tuning tool?

Bruce
 

I have ordered a 1/8" diameter 2-flute 60 degree carbide end mill.  My plan is to shorten it to .33" then press on an end I designed and 3D printed.  See photos.  $11.18 (and $8.50 shipping).  If it works the printed end's length could be modified for different trucks if needed.

At least, that's my plan.

I'll let the group know how it works out.


With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...


Re: Key c-18 # 316

Mark Kasprowicz
 

....and now you know why I passed on doing it myself!!!

Mark K
Oxon England.


Re: Key c-18 # 316

Mick Moignard
 

To open the tender: get a scalpel #11 blade and run back and forth down the joint where the sides reach the floor; the solder joint is only just strong enough to keep the tender body on.  It will soon break open.  You will need to cut the pipes at the front left side, do it below the tender floor and with a sharp set of cutters to minimise the damage and crushing of the wire.  You should then be able to get the tender body off.  This goes for all second-run Key C-18s, 315, 317, 318 and 319.  

To hold the tender body back on when you're done, first file a small slot about 5mm wide and about 15thou deep on the bottom edge of the rear of the coal space, where it touches the floor. Get a piece of 10 thou brass 15mm or so long and 5mm wide, bend it across the middle. Solder it to the tank side of the coal space rear sheet with the bent piece in the slot you just made and be sure it is not below the bottom edge of the coal sheet.  .  Then drill a 1.2mm hole in the middle of this tab that now sticks out into the coal space.   Place the tender body back on the frame, line it up and mark through that hole into the floor (it's so that you can do this that you put the tab facing in to the coal space).  Drill that 1.4mm. Get an M1.4 tap and tap the hole in the tab you've added to the coal space. Put body back on frame, invert, add M1.4 screw into the hole and tighten.     I suggest that you buy a number of black M1.4 crosspoint screws with about 3mm or 4 of thread.  Use one for this fastening and then use the others to replace the crappy brass slot screws in the loco. Key/Samhongsa brass screws have a habit of snapping off when you try and unscrew them, or of half the head breaking off or the heads just chewing up, ecause they're actually made of hardened butter.  You'll also find that crosspoint screws are so, so much easier to manage than are slots.

You can then hide your new bracket with the coal load - do place that on a slope of plasticard inside the coal space and not directly on the screw and the tender floor so that you can still remove that screw and get the body off should you ever need to.  

Next question you'll ask is how to get the body off the frame, so I'll tell you that one as well. It's the most convoluted disassembly I've ever come across; and it will generate some swearing. .
  • Remove the two screws holding the rear dragbeam to the underside of the cab floor and remove the cab rear panel along with the dragbeam.   Plan to replace these screws with crosspoints.   Occasionally the cab rear is attached to the cab, don't force the issue if it is.
  • Remove the cab; four countersunk screws under the cab and slide it backwards then upwards. These tend to be crosspoints already. Keep them separate as they're the only countersunk ones in the loco.
  • Remove the brake gear.  Two screws you can replace with steel crosspoints.
  • Remove the gear box cover, two more screws to replace on reassembly.  
  • Push the gearbox upwards into the boiler. You won't get the boiler off if you don't do this.
  • Pull the chassis backwards out of the boiler; be aware of the injector water feed and drain pipes under the cab snagging on bits of frame as you do it.  While you have it apart, toss the Sagami motor and replace with something else (mine and Mark K's all have Mashimas).  The Sagami motor will not start cleanly with any decoder I've come across - or indeed on DC.  It's Ok above step 5 (of 128), but not at the steps between 0 and 5.

Assembly is basically the reverse, with care and some more swearing.  This disassembly process is also found in the PSC/Samhongsa T-19 locos (RGS 20).

Mick
______________________________________________________________________
Mick Moignard
Specialising in DCC Sound
p: +44 7774 652504
e:
mick@...
skype: mickmoignard
The week may start M,T but it always ends up WTF!


Re: did anybody make their own truck journal tuning tool?

Mark Kasprowicz
 

I too had thought of shortening the HO version so I'd be interested to know if it is feasible.

Mark K
Oxon England.


Re: Key c-18 # 316

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Often a brass tender body has a sub frame soldered to it. It fits inside the base of the tender body and is soldered to the walls. It is fixed at four corners to the tender frame with screws. Others like the Westside SPNG's have two braces across the body about a third in from either end. Fixing is with just two central screws. These are a pain when adding sound*.

The Key C-18 first run 315, 316, and 319 and second run 318 had the tender body lightly soldered to the frame and I believe it was a short cut because there's nothing inside those tnders that I can see that prevents either form of conventional attachement. (The first run 318 tender was held together by three screws, two into the water legs and a central one.

I asked Mick Moignard to convert my four, 315, 316, 318 and 319, to DCC sound because they were all factory painted and frankly he's more skilled than me in cases like this.

But I won't steal Micks thunder...

Mark K
Oxon England.

*(With Westside SPNG's I screwed the top and bottom tender halves together, drilled two holes per brace, one at each side, opened out the frame holes and taped the ones in the body then cut the unwanted centers of the cross braces away. This let me install DCC & sound without the wiring nightmare that the braces created.)

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