Date   

Re: LaBelle F&CC kits

duncan
 

John and Robert.

    The LaBelle F&CC coach is a very different animal from the D&RGW coach.

    Yes, it is longer.  The D&RGW coaches were mostly Jackson and Sharp, though they did have others as well.  Those coaches are what the LaBelle kit is based on.  Basically the same model as the Blackstone cars.  The F&CC coaches were built by Billmeyer (sp?) and Small.

    The F&CC coaches also have larger windows - part of the reason for the longer length.  There may be some other differences as well, but those are the main ones I can recall.

    BTW, those F&CC coaches are virtually identical to coaches the C&S had, so can be used for that road as well. The C&S had no Jackson and Sharp cars.

                                    Duncan Harvey


Re: Screw Size

Bruce Bowie
 

That's exactly what I was looking for!  Thanks so much.


On Mon, Aug 31, 2020, 8:31 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Here  you go Bruce. The last photo is of a Westside C-16 tender with the modified post.

Dale Buxton

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 6:14 AM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Dale,

How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post.  Sounds like something I might want to do.

And again, thanks for sharing.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:20 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


Re: LaBelle F&CC kits

Robert Bell
 

John,
I think they aretwere different.  I have one of the F&CC coaches that I started building when I was in high school and have not finished yet.  It is longer than my Blackstone coaches, and looks different.  If I get a chance later, I'll take a photo and post it.

Rob Bell


Re: LaBelle F&CC kits

John Stutz
 

Cliff

Did the LaBelle Florence and Cripple Creek coach kits differ in any way, other than the label on the box, from their D&RGW open platform coach kits? I have LaBelle HOn3-20 coach kits labeled for both the D&RGW and the Denver and Fort Worth, and have not found any other differences.

John Stutz

On August 31, 2020 at 4:59 PM "Clifford Mestel via groups.io" <troutckeng@...> wrote:

Does anyone have one or two LaBelle Florence and Cripple Creek coaches for sale or for trade for F&CC combines?

Cliff Mestel
 

 


Re: Screw Size

Dale Buxton
 

Here  you go Bruce. The last photo is of a Westside C-16 tender with the modified post.

Dale Buxton

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 6:14 AM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Dale,

How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post.  Sounds like something I might want to do.

And again, thanks for sharing.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:20 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


LaBelle F&CC kits

Clifford Mestel
 

Does anyone have one or two LaBelle Florence and Cripple Creek coaches for sale or for trade for F&CC combines?

Cliff Mestel
 


Re: Grandt C & S Bettendorf vs Micro Trains

John Stutz
 

Dusty

I would take the difference off of the car bolster. That slight ring on the truck bolster helps the car track over any variation in track levels, and you can always add a .020" washer if converting back to Grandt.

If car body wobble is a problem, Kadee makes a wide variety of coil compression springs for their various scale couplers. Find one that fits over your truck screws, cut a short length, just a few turns, and place it under the screw head of one truck, leaving the other slightly loose. If that does not suffice, add body bolster side bearings, with just a hair's clearance, for the sprung down truck.

John Stutz

On August 30, 2020 at 3:31 PM Dusty <Dustburm@q.com> wrote:

It appears the Micro Trains bettendorf truck bolsters sit about .020 higher than the Grandt trucks. Any opinion on removing material from the MT bolster or the car bolster or something else entirely.

Any experience?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707

 


Re: Screw Size

Bruce Bowie
 

Good ideas all around.  Thanks.


On Mon, Aug 31, 2020, 10:54 AM Mark Kasprowicz <mark@...> wrote:
If you solder on a thin nut, with a smaller ID and drilled out to take the end of the post vinstead of a washer, you can undo it with a spinner without having to unsolder it.

Mark K
Oxon England


Re: Screw Size

Mark Kasprowicz
 

If you solder on a thin nut, with a smaller ID and drilled out to take the end of the post vinstead of a washer, you can undo it with a spinner without having to unsolder it.

Mark K
Oxon England


Re: Screw Size

LARRY KLOSE
 

Along with many others, I use a short piece of shrink wrap or vinyl tubing on the end of the pin to keep the drawbar on. It allows separation when necessary but avoids undesired splits. Why make it permanent if there’s components that need servicing in the tender?

Larry

Larry Klose


Re: Screw Size

Russ Norris
 

I've been soldering a washer to the end of the tender post for years.  Just takes a few seconds and about the same if you need to separate locomotive and tender. 

Russ

On Mon, Aug 31, 2020, 7:32 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Sure Bruce, I''l do that tomorrow. This can be as simple or as complicated as you want. On the simple end, I just ream out a # 1 or # 2 machined brass washer until it slips over the end of the drawbar post and then I solder it in place. 

  Then, sometimes I opt to lathe up a new post out of brass rod and thread it to 2mm and the other end has simply got a head like a flathead screw, I slot the head with a jewelers saw.   

You can get the washers from Micro Mark of course in a package of 25 or you can go to J. I. Morris and get them in packages in multiples of 10s. I have found in the long run that it is far more economical to buy these from Morris. It seems like I always need more than 25. Either way you're still getting the Morris product. 

I'll get on that photo tomorrow.

Dale Buxton

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 6:14 AM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Dale,

How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post.  Sounds like something I might want to do.

And again, thanks for sharing.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:20 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Screw Size

Dale Buxton
 

Sure Bruce, I''l do that tomorrow. This can be as simple or as complicated as you want. On the simple end, I just ream out a # 1 or # 2 machined brass washer until it slips over the end of the drawbar post and then I solder it in place. 

  Then, sometimes I opt to lathe up a new post out of brass rod and thread it to 2mm and the other end has simply got a head like a flathead screw, I slot the head with a jewelers saw.   

You can get the washers from Micro Mark of course in a package of 25 or you can go to J. I. Morris and get them in packages in multiples of 10s. I have found in the long run that it is far more economical to buy these from Morris. It seems like I always need more than 25. Either way you're still getting the Morris product. 

I'll get on that photo tomorrow.

Dale Buxton

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 6:14 AM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
Dale,

How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post.  Sounds like something I might want to do.

And again, thanks for sharing.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:20 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


Westside brass K37

Graham Hodges
 

Long shot I know but I'm after a (cheap) Westside K37 to keep my other 4 running.  Superstructure condition not important and don't even need a tender.  I'm in Australia, can pay by PayPal.  Please reply off group

Graham Hodges,
Cairns, Australia


Re: Grandt C & S Bettendorf vs Micro Trains

Ric Case
 

Dusty : Ihave done both! Just depends on how much you need to remove!
Careful with the bolster as you may get wheel of truck to frame interference!
The brake shoes are also a problem with drag on some trucks! 
I have taken the brake shoes off of most of the fifty plus pair I am using! 
Just my view !

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Aug 30, 2020, at 6:31 PM, Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:

It appears the Micro Trains bettendorf truck bolsters sit about .020 higher than the Grandt trucks. Any opinion on removing material from the MT bolster or the car bolster or something else entirely.

Any experience?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Grandt C & S Bettendorf vs Micro Trains

Dusty
 

It appears the Micro Trains bettendorf truck bolsters sit about .020 higher than the Grandt trucks. Any opinion on removing material from the MT bolster or the car bolster or something else entirely.

Any experience?

Dusty Burman
623 261-8707


Re: Screw Size

Bruce
 

Dale,

How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post.  Sounds like something I might want to do.

And again, thanks for sharing.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584
in2trains@...


On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:20 PM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


Re: Screw Size

Bruce
 

Ric,

It would be great if you could mail it to me.

Thanks.

And much thanks to the others who responded.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
19 Dayton Ave
Huron, Ohio 44839
419-602-3584
in2trains@...


On Sun, Aug 30, 2020, 12:48 AM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
I have one in my parts drawer let me know if you want it! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Aug 29, 2020, at 4:37 PM, Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:


<20200829_163317.jpg>
<20200829_163404.jpg>
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


Re: Screw Size

Ric Case
 

I have one in my parts drawer let me know if you want it! 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Aug 29, 2020, at 4:37 PM, Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:


<20200829_163317.jpg>
<20200829_163404.jpg>
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?


Re: Screw Size

waynecohen49@...
 

American Scale Models (americanscalemodels.com) has them;
parts 9167 or 9167-2, depending on length.  You probably need the shorter one.



On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 8:23 PM <Climax@...> wrote:
Get a long 2mm screw and put a tube on it.

-----Original Message-----


From: Dale Buxton


Sent: Aug 29, 2020 11:19 PM


To: HOn3@groups.io


Subject: Re: [HOn3] Screw Size





Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?































--
Wayne Cohen


Re: Screw Size

Climax@...
 

Get a long 2mm screw and put a tube on it.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Aug 29, 2020 11:19 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Screw Size

Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.

I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.

Dale Buxton

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 9:00 PM Dale Buxton via groups.io <dbtuathaddana=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.


Dale Buxton 

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale.  Looks to be in very good condition.  However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread.  Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post?  Or have one I could buy?

2121 - 2140 of 8241