Date   
Re: Frame Windows

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Bruce,

I purchased the Elgoo Mars SLA printer, I use Fusion 360 (hobbyist license) to model and Chitubox as the slicer as I am a Mac user...only tip I can offer that has been hard to find is that you should „prime“ the build plate with a light coat of resin and UV it for a couple of minutes...this allows the flimsy window frames and other fine parts to be removed without damage...sorry I cannot show any pics at the moment as my workshop is all packed up at the moment for renovations...the FDA pics look pretty good though.

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

Looking for 4-4-0 plans

Don Bergman
 

I have a friend who wants to build a wood model of a 4-4-0 engine.   Can someone point me in the direction for some plans.  I am sure there are some in the Gazette so if someone has the Index to past Gazettes can you do a search for me?
I should be able to find plans for RGS #36 4-4-0 but I am coming up short.

Thnaks

Don Bergman

Re: Frame Windows

prichie@...
 

Russ,
Check out the Shapeways site there are a lot of windows in there you can use or adapt Paul R,.

On Mon, Nov 18th, 2019 at 7:43 AM, Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:

I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements. 
I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by
6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line? 
They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/



Re: Frame Windows

Russ Norris
 

I may have to live with it.  It would be narrower and taller by 6-8 inches.  I'll give it some thought.


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 4:45 PM lloyd lehrer <lloydlehrer@...> wrote:
30x80 is not close enough?

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 12:43 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

--
lloyd lehrer


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Frame Windows

Bruce
 

Mark,

I have an inexpensive FDM printer.  I have had decent success with windows and doors.  However I will be purchasing a resin printer down the road.  This will allow me the ability to print finer details.

The photos show my efforts Rockhill Furnace Scale.

What 3D printer and design software are you using?

Re: Frame Windows

Jeff Young
 

Some of the white-metal casting folks have windows. SSLtd, B.E.S.T., maybe B.T.S.? I don’t recall any that big, though.

Re: Frame Windows

lloyd lehrer
 

30x80 is not close enough?

lloyd lehrer, (310)951-9097

On Sun, Nov 17, 2019, 12:43 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
lloyd lehrer

Re: Frame Windows

John
 

I had the same problem for an engine house. I just cut up the Grand windows and sectioned them together to make the size I needed. This was before 3d printers. The next time I need custom sizes, I'm going to just print them.
John Peckham


On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:54 PM, Mark Rosche via Groups.Io
<m_rosche@...> wrote:
Hi Russ,

I had a similar dilemma when working on a stamp mill in S scale...I finally broke down an purchased a SLA 3D printer (around $300) to make the darn things myself...with Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists) it took me all of 30min to design the window frames and a bit of time (depends on the layer thickness)to print them..it seemed expensive at first for „just a few window frames“ but I have put it through its paces for all sorts of things (working on a turntable bridge at the moment) and the investment was well worth it...

Just my $0.02...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

Re: Frame Windows

Mark Rosche
 

Hi Russ,

I had a similar dilemma when working on a stamp mill in S scale...I finally broke down an purchased a SLA 3D printer (around $300) to make the darn things myself...with Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists) it took me all of 30min to design the window frames and a bit of time (depends on the layer thickness)to print them..it seemed expensive at first for „just a few window frames“ but I have put it through its paces for all sorts of things (working on a turntable bridge at the moment) and the investment was well worth it...

Just my $0.02...

Regards,

Mark

Don‘t take life too seriously...no one gets out alive anyway....

Frame Windows

Russ Norris
 

I am scratch building an old mill from photos and personal measurements.  I need a source for 4/4 double hung frame windows approximately 3 feet by 6 feet.  Does anyone know of vendors other than Tichy and Grandt Line?  They have a variety of double hung windows, but not in the size I need.
--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: For sale Micro Engineering Flex track HOn3 and Dual Gauge new

Sam Urrate
 

Ill buy the dual gauge if it hasn’t sold.

Sam

For sale Micro Engineering Flex track HOn3 and Dual Gauge new

Doug Boudakian
 

Micro Engineering Flextrack Code 70 all new3 ft long pieces
HO-HON3 nickel silver rail non weathered 7 pieces $30
HOn3 nickel silver rail non weathered 22 pieces $98.
HOn3 nickel silver weathered 4 pieces $18.

Shipping extra

Doug Boudakian
@Durango

SOLD: HO Tom Yorke Sonora Store kit

Darryl Huffman
 

My kit has been sold.

Thanks.

Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@...

You can find my Youtube Channel of Model Building Videos Here:


You can follow my blog here:






On Saturday, November 16, 2019, 01:48:18 AM MST, Darryl Huffman via Groups.Io <darrylhuffman@...> wrote:


I have an extra kit from decades ago.

Tom Yorke's HO scale Sonora Store.

Intact and ready to mail.

$70 plus $10 for Priority Mail postage to anywhere in the USA.

If interested, please contact me off list.

Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@...

For Sale: HO Tom Yorke Sonora Store kit

Darryl Huffman
 

I have an extra kit from decades ago.

Tom Yorke's HO scale Sonora Store.

Intact and ready to mail.

$70 plus $10 for Priority Mail postage to anywhere in the USA.

If interested, please contact me off list.

Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@...

Re: Getting brass painted

LARRY KLOSE
 

And now, the URL... https://sites.google.com/site/jimbrownsdrgw/home

--------------
Here’s Jim Brown’s website, which includes the K-36 painting web site. Lots of other good stuff, too!

Larry

Re: Getting brass painted

Mike Conder
 

Back in the '80's Jim Vail had a really good series of articles on painting brass, maybe 8 articles?  All but one or two were actually focused on getting the loco running right, with one or two in the actual painting.

Mike Conder

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 9:24 PM LARRY KLOSE <lklose@...> wrote:

I’ve painted 8 or 10 brass locos, both HO and Sn3.  It’s not that difficult.  Some disassembly is required but except for the big K’s the mechanics are very simple with care and a lot of documentation as disassembly is done.  Early on I painted most of mine with a Binks Wren B airbrush, a rather basic model.  I’m using a Badger 200 now, but the Binks does fine with practice.  My locos came out beautiful, earlier with Floquil, later with PBL Star Brand.   A couple of friends here in Tucson have done beautiful jobs with spray cans as has Steve Hatch, so it’s technique, not equipment, that rules the day.

 

Jim Brown and Bill Adkins on the Sn3 list did a piece in 2003 regarding painting a Brass K-36.  It’s one of the best demos on how to do it that I’ve seen.  A unique feature was how they did it without completely disassembling the mechanism.  I’m trying to get a link to Jim’s web site.  I have my own copy of the web page but without permission, I’m reluctant to post it—it’s copyrighted.  I don’t have the URL.  I’m seeking permission  and will post it if I get that.

 

Jim and Bill used Scalecoat paint, a very good product.  It works well with baking between coats and there’s some waiting for drying time.  There’s still a lot to learn from the article even if you use different paint, especially regarding preparation.  My personal preference is PBL Star Brand paints, which gives outstanding results with extremely thin coats that don’t fill detail and are quick drying.  It’s fast drying lacquer.  It does take some practice with thinning and using retarder to keep if from drying before it hits the model, with retarder especially important in dry conditions (like our frequent 5% RH days here in Arizona).  This is lacquer with volatile solvents so good ventilation, a good safety mask and careful handling is a must.  Star doesn’t like brushing unless a lot of retarder is used so I only brush touchup.  Lately I’ve used Vallejo and craft store acrylics for brush work on trim and other small areas because of the ease of use and cleanup.

 

To summarize: with a little practice it’s not that hard, so go for it.

 

Larry

Re: Getting brass painted

John Hutnick
 

Trying to paint an engine frame by turning the drivers while still assembled is sloppy workmanship, which I would never recommend.  This procedure results in many interior areas of the frame in partial or unpainted condition.  I do not want the rods and valve gear to be painted the same black as the frame.   

Re: CMX Products

John Stutz
 

My thanks to JES

The page he references is on the website at http://www.railnet.ch, which is well worth visiting.

John Stutz

On November 13, 2019 at 8:41 AM Labo44 <labo@...> wrote:

Hello !
Please see here: http://www.railnet.ch/documents/JES001347E.pdf
Sincerely, ~JES~

 

Re: decoder hook up wire

Robert Veefkind
 



In a message dated 11/14/2019 7:12:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, kc5lpa1@... writes:

Robert maybe I am misunderstanding what you wanted but you said "take a bend and not spring back". That to me suggests solid wire
thanks all for the helpful replies. I think in my case solid wire would be the best. But at one time I had # 30 stranded that kept a bend and would stay put while a dab of black plastic insulation dried to keep it in place      Bob V.

Re: decoder hook up wire

Brian Kopp
 

I forgot to mention that butt splicing wires together can give some folks consternation, and magnet wire to stranded wire is an example butt splice you might need with a DCC loco and tender. With some real railroad comms and signals in my background, I am a fan of the lineman splice, also known as the Western Union splice. It is a strong butt splice that is small in diameter (3 wire diameters). Google it and you will see it is easy to do. If you add a drop of solder  you can easily get away with about 2 wraps per side. Heat shrink the splice or coat with liquid electrical tape and you have a very small splice. For a harness with parallel splices, if you have the room, stagger the splices just enough so that all the splices are not together creating a harness that has one big bulge. It will be easier to feed the harness through tight spaces.

--
Brian Kopp
Jacksonville, FL