Date   
Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Dave Trimble
 

FYI, Atlas did market all three. RS locos.

Dave

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 7:25 AM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
Just search for RS-1, RS-2, Ottawa RS-3 locomotive. I then Went to Wikipedia.

Dave

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 6:51 AM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Thanks Dave.  The pix of the RS-2 came through fine but the links to the RS-1 and RS-3 were missing.

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 1:32 AM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
Here’s pictures of RS-1 


And RS-3:


And, for completeness, RS-2


Supposedly the 2 and 3 were nearly identical and more angular than the 1. 

They built 1418 RS-3, 377 RS-2 and 469 RS-1.

Clearly the RS-3 was the most successful.

You can read about them all and their differences in Wikipedia areticals.

Dave

--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Dave Trimble
 

Just search for RS-1, RS-2, Ottawa RS-3 locomotive. I then Went to Wikipedia.

Dave

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 6:51 AM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
Thanks Dave.  The pix of the RS-2 came through fine but the links to the RS-1 and RS-3 were missing.

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 1:32 AM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
Here’s pictures of RS-1 


And RS-3:


And, for completeness, RS-2


Supposedly the 2 and 3 were nearly identical and more angular than the 1. 

They built 1418 RS-3, 377 RS-2 and 469 RS-1.

Clearly the RS-3 was the most successful.

You can read about them all and their differences in Wikipedia areticals.

Dave

--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

Thanks Dave.  The pix of the RS-2 came through fine but the links to the RS-1 and RS-3 were missing.


On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 1:32 AM Dave Trimble <dtrimble@...> wrote:
Here’s pictures of RS-1 


And RS-3:


And, for completeness, RS-2


Supposedly the 2 and 3 were nearly identical and more angular than the 1. 

They built 1418 RS-3, 377 RS-2 and 469 RS-1.

Clearly the RS-3 was the most successful.

You can read about them all and their differences in Wikipedia areticals.

Dave


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Jeff Young
 

Thanks for the info, Mark.

I’ve got a Sargents kit (with three extra stalls), but getting through Kokomo, Marshall Pass and the Alpine Tunnel to Sargents is going to take me another 10 years or so.  I hope I still remember your advice by then. ;)

Cheers,
Jeff.


On 12 Nov 2019, at 08:09, Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...> wrote:

Perhaps buy the extra two or three stalls for the Sargents kit giving you a rarer six stall house and then look around for a more common two or three staller. I just finished a five stall Sargents and can confirm it will take a K-37 but the track has to be centralised accurately. It goes together very well but beware of the roof. It has a tendancy to warp especially with the extra stalls. If I were doing it again I'd contact Bill when ordering the extra stalls (easiest place to get them) and got him to supply another one piece three stall roof. I had to add an extension to the sides of the roof to make it fit so that might be a cure for that. There's a fair amount of timberwork that has to be glued under the roof which is supposed to straighten it, but I gave up after a while when it seemed it wasn't going to happen.
Use spirit based paints when apply the tissue/ tar paper, again to avoid warping.
Mark K

Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Perhaps buy the extra two or three stalls for the Sargents kit giving you a rarer six stall house and then look around for a more common two or three staller. I just finished a five stall Sargents and can confirm it will take a K-37 but the track has to be centralised accurately. It goes together very well but beware of the roof. It has a tendancy to warp especially with the extra stalls. If I were doing it again I'd contact Bill when ordering the extra stalls (easiest place to get them) and got him to supply another one piece three stall roof. I had to add an extension to the sides of the roof to make it fit so that might be a cure for that. There's a fair amount of timberwork that has to be glued under the roof which is supposed to straighten it, but I gave up after a while when it seemed it wasn't going to happen.
Use spirit based paints when apply the tissue/ tar paper, again to avoid warping.
Mark K

Re: Ad: EBT HOn3 Machine and Car/Carpentry Shop Kit

John Stutz
 

Bruce

This track served the carpentry shop, which probably predates the predominance of steel rolling stock. The extra narrow gauge track was probably a tram used to move wood car sills, or bundled smaller material, in and out of the shop.  A 4"x 8"x30' car sill runs about 300lbs, so you can see why they would want to move them on a small rail car.  As to where it went, I would expect to find a wood storage/drying shed near the far end.

As to gauge, what was used in the company's coal mines?

John Stutz

On November 4, 2019 at 12:34 PM Bruce <in2trains@...> wrote:

So the group is aware, I have placed a pre-order.  These guys make great kits and I have to believe this one will add to their reputation.  Can't wait for my "Xmas"  present!  Now I just have to let my bride know I am good to go for the holidays.

PS - I am reading Kyper's newest book.  One picture (copy attached) of the south wall of the car shop shows rails running up to the small door between the west and middle doors.  Does anyone know what gauge the rails were and how far south away from the car shop they ran?  Reviewing the car shop floor plan (copy also attached) they appear narrower than 3'.  Maybe 24"??

Thanks.

With cinders in your eyes,
Bruce Bowie
419-602-3584 cell



On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 10:50 AM NarrowMinded1 < nathan.kline83@...> wrote:
Hi Ric,

Yes, it will be the complete structure; 2 bay loco shop, boiler shop, machine shop, and 3 bay car shop.
--
Nathan Kline
www.nateslightironhobbies.com
www.broadtopmountainmodels.com

 

 

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Dave Trimble
 

Here’s pictures of RS-1 


And RS-3:


And, for completeness, RS-2


Supposedly the 2 and 3 were nearly identical and more angular than the 1. 

They built 1418 RS-3, 377 RS-2 and 469 RS-1.

Clearly the RS-3 was the most successful.

You can read about them all and their differences in Wikipedia areticals.

Dave

Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Dale Buxton
 

It’s mostly a width thing with D&RGW “K’s”. However, C&S locomotives with Bear Trap Spark Arrestors have a height problem at Como. That’s why the arrestor was hinged in the middle and they folded down to the side. 

Dale B.

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 20:43 <Climax@...> wrote:

Is that becasue of height or width problems.  I have most of the MM roundhouses and extra stalls yet to build.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Nov 11, 2019 10:30 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B

Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Climax@...
 


Is that becasue of height or width problems.  I have most of the MM roundhouses and extra stalls yet to build.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Buxton
Sent: Nov 11, 2019 10:30 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B

Re: Narrow Gauge Roundhouses

Dale Buxton
 

Know this about the MM Como roundhouse. The door openings will not accommodate K-27s easily and none of the larger “K” classes at all.

Monster Model Works did a short run of the Durango Roundhouse in HO scale if you can find one. It will take all of the “K” classes.

Dale B

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

And very appropriate for 1950, the era I model!  To be honest, I just like the look of them -- very early steam to diesel transition.  I understand they used to smoke like a steam engine


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:53 PM Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:
Yes they are RS-1's  The hood on the cab and the square corners
-Steve Hatch


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Steve Hatch
 

Yes they are RS-1's  The hood on the cab and the square corners
-Steve Hatch

Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

Russ Norris
 

I had a similar problem with my EBT       2-8-2's where the trailing truck would short against the frame.  I used a rubber based gasket cement from my local NAPA store to insulate the inside of the frame. Some engines required a more drastic solution that involved filing down the inside of the frame to improve clearance. 


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 5:49 PM kevin b via Groups.Io <arcatruck13=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

mine, which has yet to be painted, wants to short itself out between the trailing (tender) truck and the frame/chassis.
my cure, which I am not at all happy with, but does work, is a piece of scotch tape between the two to act as an insulator.
Kevin.



A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.



Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.




LongJohn aka John Massura


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

And for that reason I believe my RS-3s are RS1s.  Thanks.


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 5:38 PM Doug Cummings <dougcummings@...> wrote:
The RS1 and RS3 are so vastly different in appearance there should be no way to get them confused, 


From: "Russ Norris" <rbnorrisjr@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:26:21 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Running DC on a DCC Layout

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

kevin b
 


mine, which has yet to be painted, wants to short itself out between the trailing (tender) truck and the frame/chassis.
my cure, which I am not at all happy with, but does work, is a piece of scotch tape between the two to act as an insulator.
Kevin.



A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.



Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.




LongJohn aka John Massura

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Doug Cummings
 

The RS1 and RS3 are so vastly different in appearance there should be no way to get them confused, 


From: "Russ Norris" <rbnorrisjr@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:26:21 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Running DC on a DCC Layout

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

arfio@...
 

John, Steve H had one for sale not long ago for a reasonable price.

Allen Farnsworth

On Nov 11, 2019, at 2:35 PM, John G Massura <jmassura@...> wrote:

A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.

Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.

LongJohn aka John Massura

<IMG_1823.jpeg>

Re: Coupler thoughts

Mark Lewis
 

🤔  

Mark Lewis

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 1:33 PM burrst54 <burr.stewart@...> wrote:
It's ironic that the 714 is easy to uncouple with a pick because it has slack inside the knuckle, the very slack that drives us crazy when the whole train lurches forward and back, Sergents are easy to uncouple with a magnetic wand (in my experience) but very difficult to couple up, and 705's solve the lurch problem by having so little room inside the knuckle that they're hard to uncouple with a pick. We seem to be going in circles...

Re: Running DC on a DCC Layout

Russ Norris
 

Did a Google search and I believe my RS-3's may actually be RS-1's.  I like 'em anyway. 


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 12:15 PM Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...> wrote:
You may be right, Paul.  I bought them so many years ago, I can't be sure.  Is there a quick way to distinguish

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 10:40 AM Paul Sturtz <apa_208@...> wrote:
Those RS-3s look a lot like RS-1s.  Smooth runners for sure.


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Re: Custom Brass 2-8-6 Mason Bogie

jczul36
 

John, The model is painted very nice, but unfortunately, the custom brass is not the one to buy.  The custom brass looks great, but the manufacture foolishly has the front drive rigid to the superstructure.  The front drive should articulate (As on the Balboa or United models) and allow the rear tender area to always be centered between the rails (Since this is where it attaches to the rolling stock).  The way they designed this model makes the rear of the engine swing (Tender area) on curves, derailing the rolling stock coupled behind it.  I’m afraid the model you have will always have to run alone.  You should be on the look out for Balboa’s models.  They perform very well, and all they need is a can motor.
Regards,
jc

On Nov 11, 2019, at 12:35 PM, John G Massura <jmassura@...> wrote:

A good friend of mine, George Pierson, has been twerking this engine of mine for better performance.

Do any of you have experience with this engine and any suggestions to improve it? No need to re-invent the wheel.

LongJohn aka John Massura

<IMG_1823.jpeg>