Date   

Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Joseph Melhorn
 

I realize I’m chiming in late (as usual) but another source is Drillman1 on eBay:

 

https://www.ebay.com/usr/drillman1

 

I’ve purchased a lot of carbide drill bits, end mills and other various cutters from him over the years. I think his prices are reasonable for the products he offers. Service is excellent.

Many moons ago I shared on one of the lists a low speed alternative to using a Dremel tool to hand drill holes for grab irons using twist drills. It consisted of using a General Tools Miniature powered screwdriver (Lowes Item # 78618 - on sale now for $9.99 thru 11/01/2019), some hex wrench stock (4,0mm hex wrench) and a micro drill chuck with collet set and a couple of grub screws. Since I built mine, I’ve noticed that the brass micro chuck sets now range in size from 0,5mm to 3,0mm - .0196” to .118” (eBay# 192671709836). When I acquired mine they went from 0,0mm to 3,0mm. There is a universal 0,3mm to 3,5mm (.0118” to .1378”) adjustable micro chuck (eBay# 191949240231) that could be used, too. There is still a way to get to zero closing. It requires another mini mandrel with a 0 to 1,2mm (0 to .0472”) capacity (eBay# 200866133453). This mandrel has a 3/32” (2,381mm (.0937”)) shank. You would need to trim ~1” (25,4mm) off the shank to fit in the micro chuck collet. An added bonus of using the adjustable micro chuck instead of the chuck w/collet set is that it opens wide enough to accommodate the 1/8” (3,175mm) carbide PC Board drill bits.

Here’s the procedure: Use an abrasive cutoff disc and cut a piece of the hex wrench about 1-1 1/4" long. Measure across the "points" on the 4.0mm hex wrench. I measured a screwdriver bit from my Micro Screwdriver and it measures ~.175" Take the set screw out of the chuck and drill out the hole to ~.175". Closest is a #17 at .173 or a #16 at .177". If you have a lathe or access to a lathe it's pretty simple. It can be done on a drill press if you have a vise that you can clamp the chuck into. Once the hole is drilled if you used the #17 drill bit, line up a flat on the piece of hex wrench that you cut off and dressed, with the hole for the set screw and press the cut piece in until it is about 1/8"past the set screw hole. Run the set screw in and you're done. I've made several of these for myself and friends, under $20.00 for the whole thing. Yeah, I know it’s brass and will eventually wear out, but I'm betting you'll drill several tens of thousands of grab iron holes before that happens. They're so cheap that you should buy several and you can get at least three pieces out of the 4.0mm hex wrench. Make three or four of them and keep your most used bits chucked up and its quick to change bit sizes for that project you're working on. I made six up for my workbench.

Joe Melhorn

Sahuarita, AZ

 


Re: D&RGW Book Recommendation?

Steven Haworth
 

I've got a pretty complete listing of books here, w/ descriptions -
 
- Steve Haworth
RGS history - http://www.rgsrr.info/
Blog - http://rgsrr.blogspot.com/               FB - https://www.facebook.com/stevesrgs/


On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:44 AM ColoRyan <rhickman213@...> wrote:
I'm (mostly) new to the history of the D&RGW. What recommendations do the anointed have for a one-volume history book on the D&RGW?

Second question, is there a good narrow gauge only D&RGW book?

Many thanks,
Ryan


Re: Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

Mark Lewis
 

Gary:

Most HOn3 modelers use either Mico-Engineering, Peco or Fastracks(hand laid) turnouts. 
Shinohara turnouts are old school construction and are no longer in production. 

Paul asked a reasonable question. 

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 9:46 AM <Climax@...> wrote:
I got some used L & R Code 70 Dual gauges switches I will probably never use.
Mule,  Climax at mindspring dot com

-----Original Message-----
From: Risrwy@...
Sent: Aug 29, 2019 9:28 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

Gary:

Any dual gauge code 70's?
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929


Re: Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

Climax@...
 

I got some used L & R Code 70 Dual gauges switches I will probably never use.
Mule,  Climax at mindspring dot com

-----Original Message-----
From: Risrwy@...
Sent: Aug 29, 2019 9:28 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

Gary:

Any dual gauge code 70's?
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929


Re: Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

Paul Buhrke
 

Gary:

Any dual gauge code 70's?
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929


Re: Bridge 327-A

Paul Buhrke
 

Don:
Sort of. The branch runs from Ouray Jct. about ten feet overall. However there is Ridgway and Ouray packed in sort of a narrow gauge time-saver.
I do have #329/330 & #320/319 running the branch though.
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Russ Norris
 

Great idea, Mark.  I am about to mount Tichy grab irons on an EBT house car.  I will definitely use this technique.


On Wed, Aug 28, 2019, 6:54 PM Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:
Drilling the end grab holes isn't quite as much fun as drilling the holes in the sides. This is how I try to hold the body while drilling by hand.

Dusty Burman


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Dusty
 

Drilling the end grab holes isn't quite as much fun as drilling the holes in the sides. This is how I try to hold the body while drilling by hand.

Dusty Burman


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Climax@...
 

I see all these issue with properly locating grab irons and wonder.  Back in the mid 1960's I made a jig out of a piece of cardstock and a small section of wood.  I used a drafting pencil to locate the horizontal locations and vertical locations where the lines crossed.  All I did was drill holes in it and I have been using it for the last 50 years.  I have never had any one question grab iron locations.  All I do it slap the jig up agains the end of the car, slide it up tight to the roof line or trip board, hold it and start drilling.  When I'm done I insert grab irons and its done.  I turn the jig over and use the same techniques at the other end for the single grab iron.  Simple and effective.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Dusty
Sent: Aug 28, 2019 11:39 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Drill bits for Grab Irons

Robert,

Thanks for suggesting Unique Master Models. John Vojtech is an excellent modeler and great to do business with. I an using one of his scribes (SCR02) to clear the remnants of the door protector strap on the Railline box I'm working on. It's perfect for clearing the scribed siding groves. This car is a great big salvage job. Prior owner started car by drilling huge, crooked, misaligned grab iron holes. I'm trying to square up, fill up and improve the grab iron mounting holes.

The other tool from UMM I love is the JLC saw. Excellent for styrene. Makes Xacto and Jeweler's saws results look like chain saw cuts. Great for post assembly cuts.

Pulled the trigger on #83 and #86 jobber bits from Drill America (via Homely Despot). We will see.......

Dusty Burman


Re: Bridge 327-A

Don Bergman
 

Paul,

Nice work, this the first model I have ever seen on this bridge.   Do you model the Ouray Branch?


Don Bergman


Re: D&RGW Book Recommendation?

Mike Williams
 

The best single source history is Robert Athearn’s The Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad, also published as Rebel of the Rockies. 


On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:44 AM, ColoRyan <rhickman213@...> wrote:

I'm (mostly) new to the history of the D&RGW. What recommendations do the anointed have for a one-volume history book on the D&RGW?

Second question, is there a good narrow gauge only D&RGW book?

Many thanks,
Ryan


Re: Bridge 327-A

bob.meckley@...
 

Looks good. You do need brass I beams to hold up such a long span. I built a model of the present bridge at Cimarron but used the end deck bridges as you did. Always a spectacular site on any layout.


D&RGW Book Recommendation?

ColoRyan
 

I'm (mostly) new to the history of the D&RGW. What recommendations do the anointed have for a one-volume history book on the D&RGW?

Second question, is there a good narrow gauge only D&RGW book?

Many thanks,
Ryan


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Dusty
 

Robert,

Thanks for suggesting Unique Master Models. John Vojtech is an excellent modeler and great to do business with. I an using one of his scribes (SCR02) to clear the remnants of the door protector strap on the Railline box I'm working on. It's perfect for clearing the scribed siding groves. This car is a great big salvage job. Prior owner started car by drilling huge, crooked, misaligned grab iron holes. I'm trying to square up, fill up and improve the grab iron mounting holes.

The other tool from UMM I love is the JLC saw. Excellent for styrene. Makes Xacto and Jeweler's saws results look like chain saw cuts. Great for post assembly cuts.

Pulled the trigger on #83 and #86 jobber bits from Drill America (via Homely Despot). We will see.......

Dusty Burman


Re: Bridge 327-A

Mike Conder
 

Nicely done!

Mike Conder

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 5:34 PM <Risrwy@...> wrote:
It's been a busy month for the layout.
Bridge is all plastic and scratch built.
There are two brass I-beams on the main span.
Have to make up the supports and end caps.
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929


Shinohara HOn3 turnouts

M2fq@...
 

All

I have 19 HOn3 turnouts as follows

2 wyes

3 #6 LH

1 #6 RH

5 #4 RH

8 #4 LH

$350.00 for all postage paid

or $20.00 each

www.paypal.com

Gary Kohler
330-719-0264
m2fq@...


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Mark Lewis
 

Good prices, but many items have no stock. 🤔 

Mark Lewis 
narrow gauge modeling in N.C.


Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Robert Bell
 

Have not used these people yet, but worth a look...

Rob Bell 
Waynesville, NC


Re: Bridge 327-A

Ric Case
 

Paul it really looks good painted. 
It will be great to see the area with scenery! Keep me posted on the progress. I enjoy seeing other things people are doing even though it’s not EBT. 😂 

Ric Case 
EBT Modeler 
Hamilton Ohio 
1-513-375-7694

On Aug 27, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Risrwy@... wrote:

It's been a busy month for the layout.
Bridge is all plastic and scratch built.
There are two brass I-beams on the main span.
Have to make up the supports and end caps.
--
Paul Buhrke
Recreating the 14th. Subdivision
D&RGW Salida Division in 1929
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Re: Drill bits for Grab Irons

Mike Van Hove
 

Dusty,

Try this link, he should have anything you need.


I hope this helps,

Mike Van Hove


Columbia, MO

On Aug 27, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:

I use #86 bits for .010 grabs. I've got 2 or 3 bits left and need to get a few more. My local tool company moved to who knows where. I found 2 styles on Ebay. Jobber shafts and those with 1/8 shafts.
They also have a plastic stop ring. Probably intended for cnc.

Anyone have an opinion on which type of bit to use for drilling plastic? My experience is with the jobber style but maybe the other style has advantages?

Dusty Burman 

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