Date   

AD: Second Release of Blackstone Models SoundCar Ready HOn3 D&RGW 30' Refrigerator Cars

NarrowMinded1
 

Yesterday we received a call from Blackstone Models to inform us that the second release of SoundCar Ready D&RGW 30' Reefers had arrived. We should have these in a week or two. MSRP: $64.95, Our Price: $51.96. Remember, all orders of $75 or more ship for FREE to the CONUS so add a Soundcar decoder, Current Keeper, 16x35mm speaker and gasket to your order to qualify for free shipping!
 
http://www.nateslightironhobbies.com/store/refrigerator-cars.html
 
http://www.nateslightironhobbies.com/store/soundtraxx.html
--
Nathan Kline
Nate's Light Iron Hobbies
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: http://nateslightironhobbies.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/nateslightironhobbies/


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

hi Ed
  Yes we are not as cold as Flag  and not as hot as Phoenix.
66 is now 40  and they are both about an hour north of Dewey.

90 yesterday and 78 today
Steve


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Ed Tibbetts
 

Steve, I remember Flagstaff seeming “balmy”   After being  in Vegas. Looks like you are 1500’ lower altitude. Does that make your daytime temp. Higher then Flagstaff? I drove Rt 66 a few times in the 60’s.


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

It's the central plateau
-Steve


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Climax@...
 


Before or after you climb from the desert floor to the upper plateau?  I've driven that road many times.  Even went the GC and walked to the bottom on the Kabob and stayed at the Phantom Ranch and back up the next day on the Angel Bright.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hatch
Sent: Jul 28, 2019 7:47 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] More progress on the 20x46

  The existing railroad 
http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/

is in the blue/grey building.  That RR already has the main line terminated right through
that wall and up against the outer siding. Ready to contine on into the new room.
  This is in the dead center of Arizona a little town called Dewey in the Prescott Valley.
Our property is right up agains the Prescott National Forest.  About half way from
Phoenix to Flagstaff.

Steve Hatch
Dewey Arizona


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

  The existing railroad 
http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/

is in the blue/grey building.  That RR already has the main line terminated right through
that wall and up against the outer siding. Ready to contine on into the new room.
  This is in the dead center of Arizona a little town called Dewey in the Prescott Valley.
Our property is right up agains the Prescott National Forest.  About half way from
Phoenix to Flagstaff.

Steve Hatch
Dewey Arizona


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Climax@...
 

Nice Patio, plenty of space for a BBQ, lounges, a nice umbrella and of course the Hot tub and a cooler!  I might suggest a nice rustic railing around the edges.
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hatch
Sent: Jul 28, 2019 5:48 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] More progress on the 20x46

 I just finished the tung and groove decking on the floor.   It went fairly quickly.
Well guess I'll start framimg walls tomorrow.
new floor:

www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/floor1.jpg

Stephen Hatch


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Mike Conder
 

Darn, Steve, that really gives a great feel as to how large this extension will be!

Mike Conder

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 3:48 PM Steve Hatch <hatch@... wrote:
 I just finished the tung and groove decking on the floor.   It went fairly quickly.
Well guess I'll start framimg walls tomorrow.
new floor:

www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/floor1.jpg

Stephen Hatch


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

 I just finished the tung and groove decking on the floor.   It went fairly quickly.
Well guess I'll start framimg walls tomorrow.
new floor:

www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/floor1.jpg

Stephen Hatch


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Bill Lugg
 

Looks good.  Remind me of what part of the country you live in?  It looks like AZ or NM.

So, I assume the existing layout is in the "grey" building, right? Is that back wall going to come down then (replace with posts for load bearing support) or are you going to come through the door with track...or something else entirely?  And I assume you had to pull permits to do all this?

An interesting side story: I know a contractor who builds houses in El Paso and Elbert counties in Colorado.  He recently told me he paid $12K just for permits, excluding well and septic permits to build a house of I believe about 4K square feet in Elbert county. $7k of that was a fee for impact to road for hauling building materials to the work site.   He said the same permits would cost about $4K to $5K in El Paso county.

Just curious...
Bill Lugg

On 7/28/19 11:53 AM, Steve Hatch wrote:
Finished with the floor joists. Now the T&G floor sheeting. Right there in the back of the truck.
 Don't have to pack these very far at all.

http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/footing10.jpg

Stephen Hatch


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

Finished with the floor joists. Now the T&G floor sheeting.  Right there in the back of the truck.
 Don't have to pack these very far at all.

http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/footing10.jpg

Stephen Hatch


Re: Kadee 705’s?

Ed Tibbetts
 

Mark, mine came in the mail Friday, 07/26.😊🚂


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

I think the weathering should have more redish browns in it.
Got the last load of joists and the t&G sub floor.  Took 3/4 of the day to load it and get it here.
I did manage to get further installing the joists.   LONG day
Pic of progress.   Lunch would be good Bill and Jan Maybe Norm will come and it will be all S'ers

http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/footing9.jpg

Steve Hatch


Re: More progress on the 20x46

Mike Van Hove
 

Steve,
Nice weathering job on the existing building.  😜

Mike Van Hove

On Jul 26, 2019, at 9:22 PM, Steve Hatch <hatch@...> wrote:

I have half of the floor joists in and the main support beam and the rim joists.
 Lot of nailing today. Sure glad I have my air nailer.
  I just couldn't do this without it.   But I'm beginning to "see the Standard Gauge run in my mind.
This will give me 46 feet by 20 feet.  Nice size for me.  can't wait to see it unfolding.

Todays work pic
http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/footing8.jpg

Stephen Hatch (tired and hungry) but satisfied.

I wonder if this is what the doctor meant by get more exercise


More progress on the 20x46

Steve Hatch
 

I have half of the floor joists in and the main support beam and the rim joists.
 Lot of nailing today. Sure glad I have my air nailer.
  I just couldn't do this without it.   But I'm beginning to "see the Standard Gauge run in my mind.
This will give me 46 feet by 20 feet.  Nice size for me.  can't wait to see it unfolding.

Todays work pic
http://www.railwayeng.com/9030railroad/pics/footing8.jpg

Stephen Hatch (tired and hungry) but satisfied.

I wonder if this is what the doctor meant by get more exercise


Re: The new couplers

Doug Cummings
 

If there have been various discussions I have missed them. I do not read all of the modelling magazines that exist. And I am sure there others in the same boat. There are people who model and make a science of it, and others who model as a hobby.  I model because I have always liked trains and worked in the industry for a good many years. 




Doug,
There has already been some discussion on the new Kadee 705 Hon3 coupler

Here are some salient points on them:

FIRST AND FOREMOST! The 705 coupler is NOT a drop in replacement for a 714 coupler!

Kadee says that the 705 and its box will go anywhere a 714 and its box will go.

The 705 will mate readily with the Kadee 714 and the Sergent Sharon Type true to scale coupler.

The 705's are an all metal coupler in a plastic box.

The width of the 705 box is more or less identical to the 714 box.

Due to the 705's pivot design, the coupler must be used in the box that was designed for.

The 705 shank thickness behind the knuckle is thinner than the shank behind the knuckle of the 714. This means that the 705 coupler box front opening is not as tall as the 714's front opening. This also means that if you try to put a 705 in a 714 coupler box. The 714 box needs to be modified in some way so that the 705 won't flop around vertically in a 714 box.

Even though the pivot hole in the 705 is roughly the same width as a 714's coupler box pivot post (or 714 clone boxes on car kits). The 705's pivot hole is arrow shaped, not round.

In order to mount the 705 coupler on Rail Line, PSC, Durango Press, Model RR General Store and Blackstone cars. If you do it the way Kadee suggests. Most of the Kadee 714 clone coupler box and the pivot post must be removed from these cars.



My experiments with the 705 couplers thus far show that the only way to get them in a car with a 714 clone coupler box without massive amounts of plastic or die-cast removal from said car is to:

(1) Remove and throw away the 705 coupler box lid.

(2) Remove the coupler and its centering spring from the 705 coupler box and set aside.

(3) Trim off the side walls of the 705 box floor flush with the insides of those walls. DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR WALL! This wall is the same height as the pivot post and will give you a second contact point when the coupler box is screwed to the bottom of the car. It will help to keep the box from compressing. The 705 coupler box floor with its pivot post is now almost exactly the same width as the 714 clone coupler box area on the car you are converting. You might need to do some filing to it to get a perfect fit.

(4) Remove the clone pivot post on the car that you are converting to the 705 coupler.

(5) Reassemble the 705 coupler with its centering spring on its pivot post and flip it over.  

(6) Place the 705 coupler with its floor in the coupler box opening on the car and slip it forwards or backwards until you have the spacing between the back of the 705 coupler knuckle and the coupler buffer plate that you want.

(7) Mark a center spot in the mounting hole of the coupler and drill and tap for the 00/90 screw supplied by Kadee and screw it in place.

Note: The pivot hole on Blackstone cars appears to already be a 00/90 thread and pretty close to the best position possible.

I have no experiments or intentions of mounting the 705 on a locomotive pilot. The Sergent Sharon type pilot coupler is the best coupler for this as far as I am concerned.


This may seem like a lot of work. But on thing is for sure. The new 705 coupler gets rid of the 714 slinky effect in trains! 

I hope this helps

Dale B  


On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:26 PM Doug Cummings <dougcummings@...> wrote:
I was down at my local hobby shop today and asked about the new couplers. Quite surprising, I was advised it is not a one size fits all situation. It was told it also depends on the make and model of the car.

So before I go out and buy dozens of these new couplers I think we need a lesson on which make and model of coupler applies to which make and model of car. I would hate to buy a dozen couplers only to find they are not the right ones

Is before investing in a batch of new couplers can some explain the situation and what couplers fit what cars, etc. etc. etc.

DEC





Re: The new couplers

Dale Buxton
 

Doug,

There has already been some discussion on the new Kadee 705 Hon3 coupler

Here are some salient points on them:

FIRST AND FOREMOST! The 705 coupler is NOT a drop in replacement for a 714 coupler!

Kadee says that the 705 and its box will go anywhere a 714 and its box will go.

The 705 will mate readily with the Kadee 714 and the Sergent Sharon Type true to scale coupler.

The 705's are an all metal coupler in a plastic box.

The width of the 705 box is more or less identical to the 714 box.

Due to the 705's pivot design, the coupler must be used in the box that was designed for.

The 705 shank thickness behind the knuckle is thinner than the shank behind the knuckle of the 714. This means that the 705 coupler box front opening is not as tall as the 714's front opening. This also means that if you try to put a 705 in a 714 coupler box. The 714 box needs to be modified in some way so that the 705 won't flop around vertically in a 714 box.

Even though the pivot hole in the 705 is roughly the same width as a 714's coupler box pivot post (or 714 clone boxes on car kits). The 705's pivot hole is arrow shaped, not round.

In order to mount the 705 coupler on Rail Line, PSC, Durango Press, Model RR General Store and Blackstone cars. If you do it the way Kadee suggests. Most of the Kadee 714 clone coupler box and the pivot post must be removed from these cars.



My experiments with the 705 couplers thus far show that the only way to get them in a car with a 714 clone coupler box without massive amounts of plastic or die-cast removal from said car is to:

(1) Remove and throw away the 705 coupler box lid.

(2) Remove the coupler and its centering spring from the 705 coupler box and set aside.

(3) Trim off the side walls of the 705 box floor flush with the insides of those walls. DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR WALL! This wall is the same height as the pivot post and will give you a second contact point when the coupler box is screwed to the bottom of the car. It will help to keep the box from compressing. The 705 coupler box floor with its pivot post is now almost exactly the same width as the 714 clone coupler box area on the car you are converting. You might need to do some filing to it to get a perfect fit.

(4) Remove the clone pivot post on the car that you are converting to the 705 coupler.

(5) Reassemble the 705 coupler with its centering spring on its pivot post and flip it over.  

(6) Place the 705 coupler with its floor in the coupler box opening on the car and slip it forwards or backwards until you have the spacing between the back of the 705 coupler knuckle and the coupler buffer plate that you want.

(7) Mark a center spot in the mounting hole of the coupler and drill and tap for the 00/90 screw supplied by Kadee and screw it in place.

Note: The pivot hole on Blackstone cars appears to already be a 00/90 thread and pretty close to the best position possible.

I have no experiments or intentions of mounting the 705 on a locomotive pilot. The Sergent Sharon type pilot coupler is the best coupler for this as far as I am concerned.


This may seem like a lot of work. But on thing is for sure. The new 705 coupler gets rid of the 714 slinky effect in trains! 

I hope this helps

Dale B  


On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:26 PM Doug Cummings <dougcummings@...> wrote:
I was down at my local hobby shop today and asked about the new couplers. Quite surprising, I was advised it is not a one size fits all situation. It was told it also depends on the make and model of the car.

So before I go out and buy dozens of these new couplers I think we need a lesson on which make and model of coupler applies to which make and model of car. I would hate to buy a dozen couplers only to find they are not the right ones

Is before investing in a batch of new couplers can some explain the situation and what couplers fit what cars, etc. etc. etc.

DEC




Re: The new couplers

Doug Cummings
 

That is not what the chap at Central Hobbies said today. He said it is not a case of one size fits all.

I will wait until this matter is settled before I start buying any new couplers.

I am taking a guess but I am sure it is not the coupler itself, but how they are mounted and thus the coupler number.

Doug



been hacking up brass to mount coolers forever, and doing al kinds of atrocious things to cars to mount couplers, I don’t see an issue; or at least any different from the 714s, and I won’t miss putting them together that’s for sure.

On Jul 25, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Doug Cummings <dougcummings@telus.net> wrote:

I was down at my local hobby shop today and asked about the new couplers. Quite surprising, I was advised it is not a one size fits all situation. It was told it also depends on the make and model of the car.

So before I go out and buy dozens of these new couplers I think we need a lesson on which make and model of coupler applies to which make and model of car. I would hate to buy a dozen couplers only to find they are not the right ones

Is before investing in a batch of new couplers can some explain the situation and what couplers fit what cars, etc. etc. etc.

DEC


Re: The new couplers

Bill Nelson
 

been hacking up brass to mount coolers forever, and doing al kinds of atrocious things to cars to mount couplers, I don’t see an issue; or at least any different from the 714s, and I won’t miss putting them together that’s for sure.

On Jul 25, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Doug Cummings <dougcummings@telus.net> wrote:

I was down at my local hobby shop today and asked about the new couplers. Quite surprising, I was advised it is not a one size fits all situation. It was told it also depends on the make and model of the car.

So before I go out and buy dozens of these new couplers I think we need a lesson on which make and model of coupler applies to which make and model of car. I would hate to buy a dozen couplers only to find they are not the right ones

Is before investing in a batch of new couplers can some explain the situation and what couplers fit what cars, etc. etc. etc.

DEC



The new couplers

Doug Cummings
 

I was down at my local hobby shop today and asked about the new couplers. Quite surprising, I was advised it is not a one size fits all situation. It was told it also depends on the make and model of the car.

So before I go out and buy dozens of these new couplers I think we need a lesson on which make and model of coupler applies to which make and model of car. I would hate to buy a dozen couplers only to find they are not the right ones

Is before investing in a batch of new couplers can some explain the situation and what couplers fit what cars, etc. etc. etc.

DEC

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