Date   
Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

NarrowMinded1
 

Hi Dale,

I have BS, Rail Line, C&BT, and E&B Valley/MRGS equipment and a couple brass pieces and, AFAIK, they all have cast on, not Kadee, coupler boxes or, in the case of brass; none at all. I purchased 3 packs of the #705's and plan to experiment with them upon their arrival. I will post the results here. What size washer did you use to correct the coupler droop?
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Dale Buxton
 

YES! Absolutely! I've watched train crews make up trains in Chama doing just this! The switchman puts his brake club in the draft gear area and aligns the coupler and its still being done today. However, in the prototype world there is an ongoing world wide quest to design a coupler that self aligns and has air and electrical contacts integral with the coupler head. No one has a design that has been standardized and adopted outside of the places of origin yet. But the day is coming. 

Dale B

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 2:15 PM Doug Cummings <dougcummings@...> wrote:
Generally speaking in the real world (prototype) it was the switchman or whoever was doing the switching work who would center the coupler to align it for coupling. 

I never saw a coupler that would center itself. Often whoever was doing the uncoupling could/would realign the coupler. 

D.E.C.


From: "Dale Buxton" <dbtuathaddana@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2019 12:19:52 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Nathan,
I agree about self-centering couplers not being prototypical. I use Sergent couplers and they don't self center and they work just fine for me. But, there are people in our HOn3 community who's entire coupling experience is ruined without a self-centering coupler.

 I have found that you simply can't please everyone on the coupler issue in HOn3. I for one dislike just about everything about Kadee 714's. This dislike goes back almost 50 years. I dislike the box they go in, the space it needs, the split shank, the slinky effect in a train of cars and the fact that they make you butcher a locomotive pilot to get one in there! It has not helped that they were the only automatic coupler show in town for most of those 50 years.

As to your plastic shim idea. Yeah sure why not. except... The 714 coupler box is made of an engineering plastic. Celcon I think. These plastics resist cements and glues. So what would you glut it with? It's said that Dr. Mike's has a version of CA that will glue to Delrin. This might include Celcon. But, I have no experience with their products. It would probably be far easier to glue the shim to the bottom of the coupler shank. Or shim it with washers like I said before. 

So the quest for HOn3 coupler nirvana goes on. I Just happen to like to experiment and hopefully help others in the process. But, observations, actual facts and conclusions are important parts of successful experimentation.   

Dale B

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 10:19 AM NarrowMinded1 <nathan.kline83@...> wrote:
Dale,

Re: Shank thickness/droop: Can't you just glue a strip of styrene to the coupler box or lid? I'm not concerned abput losing the automatic centering, which is unprototyipical anyway, as m pluch as the droop and causing coupler height issues.
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ


Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Labo44
 

Kadee HOn3 #705 Coupler
------------------------
My conclusions after many tests

The Coupler #705 can only be used with its housing.
Any installation in a different housing is almost impossible because of the centering system.

I installed the coupler on two vehicles by adjusting perfectly the height of the coupler and the uncoupling rod.

705/705 tests
The coupling can only be perfectly aligned.
Uncoupling on a permanent magnet is very difficult, if not impossible !
Uncoupling on an electromagnetic uncoupler is just as difficult !
The horizontal part of the uncoupling pin is too short and the spring of the knuckle is too hard !
Once uncoupled, delayed uncoupling is random, knuckles do not open enough.

705/714 tests
The coupling is possible with a small misalignment.
Uncoupling on a permanent magnet or an electromagnetic uncoupler is impossible,
the uncoupling rod of the 714 pulls the two couplers on the same side !

In summary, I continue with the good old #714 that works perfectly, although it is less realistic than the #705.

Let's hope Kadee does not stop production of #714 ...

Sincerely, ~JES~

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Doug Cummings
 

Generally speaking in the real world (prototype) it was the switchman or whoever was doing the switching work who would center the coupler to align it for coupling. 

I never saw a coupler that would center itself. Often whoever was doing the uncoupling could/would realign the coupler. 

D.E.C.


From: "Dale Buxton" <dbtuathaddana@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2019 12:19:52 PM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Nathan,
I agree about self-centering couplers not being prototypical. I use Sergent couplers and they don't self center and they work just fine for me. But, there are people in our HOn3 community who's entire coupling experience is ruined without a self-centering coupler.

 I have found that you simply can't please everyone on the coupler issue in HOn3. I for one dislike just about everything about Kadee 714's. This dislike goes back almost 50 years. I dislike the box they go in, the space it needs, the split shank, the slinky effect in a train of cars and the fact that they make you butcher a locomotive pilot to get one in there! It has not helped that they were the only automatic coupler show in town for most of those 50 years.

As to your plastic shim idea. Yeah sure why not. except... The 714 coupler box is made of an engineering plastic. Celcon I think. These plastics resist cements and glues. So what would you glut it with? It's said that Dr. Mike's has a version of CA that will glue to Delrin. This might include Celcon. But, I have no experience with their products. It would probably be far easier to glue the shim to the bottom of the coupler shank. Or shim it with washers like I said before. 

So the quest for HOn3 coupler nirvana goes on. I Just happen to like to experiment and hopefully help others in the process. But, observations, actual facts and conclusions are important parts of successful experimentation.   

Dale B

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 10:19 AM NarrowMinded1 <nathan.kline83@...> wrote:
Dale,

Re: Shank thickness/droop: Can't you just glue a strip of styrene to the coupler box or lid? I'm not concerned abput losing the automatic centering, which is unprototyipical anyway, as m pluch as the droop and causing coupler height issues.
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ


Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Dale Buxton
 

Nathan,

I agree about self-centering couplers not being prototypical. I use Sergent couplers and they don't self center and they work just fine for me. But, there are people in our HOn3 community who's entire coupling experience is ruined without a self-centering coupler.

 I have found that you simply can't please everyone on the coupler issue in HOn3. I for one dislike just about everything about Kadee 714's. This dislike goes back almost 50 years. I dislike the box they go in, the space it needs, the split shank, the slinky effect in a train of cars and the fact that they make you butcher a locomotive pilot to get one in there! It has not helped that they were the only automatic coupler show in town for most of those 50 years.

As to your plastic shim idea. Yeah sure why not. except... The 714 coupler box is made of an engineering plastic. Celcon I think. These plastics resist cements and glues. So what would you glut it with? It's said that Dr. Mike's has a version of CA that will glue to Delrin. This might include Celcon. But, I have no experience with their products. It would probably be far easier to glue the shim to the bottom of the coupler shank. Or shim it with washers like I said before. 

So the quest for HOn3 coupler nirvana goes on. I Just happen to like to experiment and hopefully help others in the process. But, observations, actual facts and conclusions are important parts of successful experimentation.   

Dale B

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 10:19 AM NarrowMinded1 <nathan.kline83@...> wrote:
Dale,

Re: Shank thickness/droop: Can't you just glue a strip of styrene to the coupler box or lid? I'm not concerned abput losing the automatic centering, which is unprototyipical anyway, as m pluch as the droop and causing coupler height issues.
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

Re: WP&Y pilot

Robert Bell
 




The body isn't sitting quite right in these pictures...ignore that, it has been fixed.

IF you are on Facebook look up my layout on www.facebook.com/WARRNC/ 

Also check out Mike May's incredible layout recently in the last several Gazettes at https://www.facebook.com/groups/wpyr1983/

And https://www.facebook.com/WhitePassRailfan/ whrich is Borries Burkhardt's page and his web site http://www.whitepassfan.net/

And last but not least the yahoo group:
whitepassfanlist-subscribe@...

Hope to see you on FB and the email group!

Rob

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any

NarrowMinded1
 

Hi Drew,

To me this seems like too much work for a supposedly drop-in replacement but that's just me I guess. At that rate you might aw well just remove the entire cast on box and replace it with the 705 assembly.
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

NarrowMinded1
 

Dale,

Re: Shank thickness/droop: Can't you just glue a strip of styrene to the coupler box or lid? I'm not concerned abput losing the automatic centering, which is unprototyipical anyway, as m pluch as the droop and causing coupler height issues.
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

Re: WP&Y pilot

Sean
 

No I wasn’t aware of one on yahoo? I’ve never been there, I’m a big fan. Me and a buddy of mine made a trip to El Centro (US Gypsum Raiway)last year to look at the two motors that never made up there. Neat operation. If at all possible could you send pictures of the trailing plow? Maybe something I can fabricate. The yahoo group too if you don’t mind?
Thx Sean


On Jul 20, 2019, at 05:09, Robert Bell via Groups.Io <ionhoss@...> wrote:

Well, at least you heard back from PSC.  I sent an email on March 14th, and never heard a word back.  The locos were produced in 1992.  I wouldn't , kind getting rid of one or both of the trailing pilots, ONCE I have replacement plows - either PSC or scratch built.  But I cannot use them on my layout without them.

Are you on the whitepassfanlist yahoo group?

Rob

Re: WP&Y pilot

Robert Bell
 

Well, at least you heard back from PSC.  I sent an email on March 14th, and never heard a word back.  The locos were produced in 1992.  I wouldn't , kind getting rid of one or both of the trailing pilots, ONCE I have replacement plows - either PSC or scratch built.  But I cannot use them on my layout without them.

Are you on the whitepassfanlist yahoo group?

Rob

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any

Dale Buxton
 

Drew 
I saw your post and just did a Rail Line car. This is the ticket!!! I think it may be even easier than what you did. I did step 1 and and only part of step 2. At step 2 I cut the side walls off of the Kadee box flush with the inside faces of the walls. I left the rear wall on. This wall is the same height as the pivot post. Now the new coupler box floor will rest on 2 places instead of just 1.  The new floor width is exactly the same width as the Rail Line boxes inside width and no measuring was needed! Pretty nice. Then I followed your steps 3 and 4. I did the same procedure on a Blackstone boxcar. All that I needed to do was to remove the original pivot post on both cars. I kind of mentioned that last week when these first showed up in the Gazette add. And then promptly forgot about it.  Good On You Brother! Nicely done!!!

Now apply one of these to a steam loco pilot.

Dale B 

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 11:50 PM hiroechan <hiroechan@...> wrote:

Alright gents,
I have solved this issue. Here's how you install the new 705 couplers in existing draft gear, without major surgery, and actually have them look right and center properly.

1: cut the old center pin out of the existing box.
2: disassemble the 705, discard the lid, and trim the box into a new lid. Cut off box sides and rear. 
3: use new lid with triangular center pin, together with new coupler, placed in old box on car, to find location for drilling and tapping for new mounting screw. 
4: remove 705 coupler and new lid, drill and tap car box, then reassemble new coupler in old box with new lid, spring, and screw.

See photos for details.

This is a Rail Line boxcar, this technique should work for blackstone cars as well. The centering works, and the coupler head is nice and close to the striker plate like it should be.

--Drew McCann


On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 12:48 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this.

1. As I mentioned before, the little centering spring really needs to be in it's designed slot with about 1/32" of horizontal play. It is all but impossible to get that idy-biddy spring in the back of the coupler shank and behind the pivot post in a Kadee 714 coupler box or 714 clone coupler box ( like the one on a Blackstone car ) . If you by some chance of magic get in it in there. It will be completely compressed and the centering action is lost!

2.  The 705 coupler's shank thickness is only .041". A Kadee 714's shank thickness is .057". The 705's shank is way thinner!  The Kadee 714 coupler boxes inside height at the pivot post is .067". This gives the 705 coupler  .026" of vertical play and no spring torsion pushing against it to hold it on the vertical plane. It sticks out there, drooping down to a 15 to 20 degree angle and flops around unable to mate with any other coupler. This fix of coarse, is to add about .025" of shim washers to the pivot post to get the thing to sit level in the coupler box. More work and expense I didn't want.

And once again the Sergent Sharon type coupler was purpose designed to fit in  the Kadee 714 box and is clones with no vertical play. Yes I am a proponent of Sharon couplers. But, I am also will to try new things. This new coupler design of Kadee's is turning out to be more work that I want to deal with.

Why in the world did they make the 705's shank thickness so much thinner than the 714's??? Why did the make the pivot post such a unique and generally uncombatable design with what is already on the market?

It's both baffling and disappointing for this modeler. 

Dale B 

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any

hiroechan
 

Here's the same solution applied to a Blackstone RGS flat. 


On Sat, Jul 20, 2019, 1:50 AM hiroechan via Groups.Io <hiroechan=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Alright gents,
I have solved this issue. Here's how you install the new 705 couplers in existing draft gear, without major surgery, and actually have them look right and center properly.

1: cut the old center pin out of the existing box.
2: disassemble the 705, discard the lid, and trim the box into a new lid. Cut off box sides and rear. 
3: use new lid with triangular center pin, together with new coupler, placed in old box on car, to find location for drilling and tapping for new mounting screw. 
4: remove 705 coupler and new lid, drill and tap car box, then reassemble new coupler in old box with new lid, spring, and screw.

See photos for details.

This is a Rail Line boxcar, this technique should work for blackstone cars as well. The centering works, and the coupler head is nice and close to the striker plate like it should be.

--Drew McCann


On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 12:48 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this.

1. As I mentioned before, the little centering spring really needs to be in it's designed slot with about 1/32" of horizontal play. It is all but impossible to get that idy-biddy spring in the back of the coupler shank and behind the pivot post in a Kadee 714 coupler box or 714 clone coupler box ( like the one on a Blackstone car ) . If you by some chance of magic get in it in there. It will be completely compressed and the centering action is lost!

2.  The 705 coupler's shank thickness is only .041". A Kadee 714's shank thickness is .057". The 705's shank is way thinner!  The Kadee 714 coupler boxes inside height at the pivot post is .067". This gives the 705 coupler  .026" of vertical play and no spring torsion pushing against it to hold it on the vertical plane. It sticks out there, drooping down to a 15 to 20 degree angle and flops around unable to mate with any other coupler. This fix of coarse, is to add about .025" of shim washers to the pivot post to get the thing to sit level in the coupler box. More work and expense I didn't want.

And once again the Sergent Sharon type coupler was purpose designed to fit in  the Kadee 714 box and is clones with no vertical play. Yes I am a proponent of Sharon couplers. But, I am also will to try new things. This new coupler design of Kadee's is turning out to be more work that I want to deal with.

Why in the world did they make the 705's shank thickness so much thinner than the 714's??? Why did the make the pivot post such a unique and generally uncombatable design with what is already on the market?

It's both baffling and disappointing for this modeler. 

Dale B 

Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any

hiroechan
 

Alright gents,
I have solved this issue. Here's how you install the new 705 couplers in existing draft gear, without major surgery, and actually have them look right and center properly.

1: cut the old center pin out of the existing box.
2: disassemble the 705, discard the lid, and trim the box into a new lid. Cut off box sides and rear. 
3: use new lid with triangular center pin, together with new coupler, placed in old box on car, to find location for drilling and tapping for new mounting screw. 
4: remove 705 coupler and new lid, drill and tap car box, then reassemble new coupler in old box with new lid, spring, and screw.

See photos for details.

This is a Rail Line boxcar, this technique should work for blackstone cars as well. The centering works, and the coupler head is nice and close to the striker plate like it should be.

--Drew McCann


On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 12:48 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this.

1. As I mentioned before, the little centering spring really needs to be in it's designed slot with about 1/32" of horizontal play. It is all but impossible to get that idy-biddy spring in the back of the coupler shank and behind the pivot post in a Kadee 714 coupler box or 714 clone coupler box ( like the one on a Blackstone car ) . If you by some chance of magic get in it in there. It will be completely compressed and the centering action is lost!

2.  The 705 coupler's shank thickness is only .041". A Kadee 714's shank thickness is .057". The 705's shank is way thinner!  The Kadee 714 coupler boxes inside height at the pivot post is .067". This gives the 705 coupler  .026" of vertical play and no spring torsion pushing against it to hold it on the vertical plane. It sticks out there, drooping down to a 15 to 20 degree angle and flops around unable to mate with any other coupler. This fix of coarse, is to add about .025" of shim washers to the pivot post to get the thing to sit level in the coupler box. More work and expense I didn't want.

And once again the Sergent Sharon type coupler was purpose designed to fit in  the Kadee 714 box and is clones with no vertical play. Yes I am a proponent of Sharon couplers. But, I am also will to try new things. This new coupler design of Kadee's is turning out to be more work that I want to deal with.

Why in the world did they make the 705's shank thickness so much thinner than the 714's??? Why did the make the pivot post such a unique and generally uncombatable design with what is already on the market?

It's both baffling and disappointing for this modeler. 

Dale B 

KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

Dale Buxton
 

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this.

1. As I mentioned before, the little centering spring really needs to be in it's designed slot with about 1/32" of horizontal play. It is all but impossible to get that idy-biddy spring in the back of the coupler shank and behind the pivot post in a Kadee 714 coupler box or 714 clone coupler box ( like the one on a Blackstone car ) . If you by some chance of magic get in it in there. It will be completely compressed and the centering action is lost!

2.  The 705 coupler's shank thickness is only .041". A Kadee 714's shank thickness is .057". The 705's shank is way thinner!  The Kadee 714 coupler boxes inside height at the pivot post is .067". This gives the 705 coupler  .026" of vertical play and no spring torsion pushing against it to hold it on the vertical plane. It sticks out there, drooping down to a 15 to 20 degree angle and flops around unable to mate with any other coupler. This fix of coarse, is to add about .025" of shim washers to the pivot post to get the thing to sit level in the coupler box. More work and expense I didn't want.

And once again the Sergent Sharon type coupler was purpose designed to fit in  the Kadee 714 box and is clones with no vertical play. Yes I am a proponent of Sharon couplers. But, I am also will to try new things. This new coupler design of Kadee's is turning out to be more work that I want to deal with.

Why in the world did they make the 705's shank thickness so much thinner than the 714's??? Why did the make the pivot post such a unique and generally uncombatable design with what is already on the market?

It's both baffling and disappointing for this modeler. 

Dale B 

Re: WP&Y pilot

Sean
 

Rob,
     I wasn’t aware it was called the trailing pilot, makes sense. I emailed PSC earlier this week and they weren’t aware of it either. Said they’d just taken over the business, if I had a product number they might be able to help. I’d like to hold on to the one I have but if you’re interested in parting with one I’d be interested. Thank you for the response.
Sean


On Jul 19, 2019, at 02:13, Robert Bell via Groups.Io <ionhoss@...> wrote:

Sean, 
I do not believe that PSC ever offered the pilots separately.  I have two of the "trailing" units and need the plow pilot.  I just recently started to scratch-build one.  
Several years ago on the whitepassfanlist on yahoo, some of the other guys proposed getting PSC to make a run of the plows and to my knowledge nothing happened.
That being said, are you looking for the plow or the trailing pilot?

Rob Bell 
Waynesville, NC 


On Wed, Jul 17, 2019 at 5:17 PM, Sean
<Cndrsean@...> wrote:

Anybody out there know the PSC number for the HOn3 WP&Y diesel that had the “Switching/yard Pilot” I remember seeing it in the two motors set you could buy when they came out (20years ago+) I bought the single motor but it didn’t come with that additional pilot.
Thx
Sean L McCarthy

Re: Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention

NarrowMinded1
 

If you go to the HOn3 Narrow Gaugers Facebook group thereare pics of the #705 in Blackstone cars and compared to the #58 and Sergeant Sharon couplets. Also, I posted a reply I received from Kadee regarding the availability of the #705 in.bilk packs as follows...

Reply from Kadee re: #705 bulk packs...

"Hello Mr. Kline,

Sorry No.  We are just starting production and it will take quite sometime to build up a reserve stock. Also, the coupler's design will not allow it to be used in another type of coupler box or cast on pocket.

Most Blackstone models come with our #714 HOn3 couplers and the #705 will fit anywhere the #714 will fit"

They kind of contradict themselves in the reply but the proof is in the pics. IMHO they would be shooting themselves in the foot if the #705 didn't fit where the defacto standard #714 did.

"That's a great shame. I had hoped that this would a) retro fit the 714 as a drop in replacement and b) eliminate the 'bounce' altogether. The potential for sales to RailLine and BS owners must surely have been a consideration. But if the conversion involves hacking away bits of an already perferctly good draft box, then I'm afraid I'm not interested.

Lost opportunity IMHO

Mark K"
--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

--
Nathan Kline
Tiadaghton Valley Railroad & Coal Co.
McConnellsburg, PA
--------------------------------------------------
Web: https://www.tiadaghtonvalleyrr.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TiadaghtonValleyRailroad/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVJMoICFWw9Muse6xm8moiQ

For Sale PFM hi grade K-27

Doug Boudakian <dboudrrtrain@...>
 

Mint condition PFM Hi grade K-27 2-8-2. Runs like a Swiss watch. Has bag with extra screws. A couple small parts need to soldered back on the engine. No driver wear. Box is in mint condition with all foam inserts and Pfm plastic wrap for engine and tender. Has original warranty card. Pictures on request. Send private reply and not to the list. $400
Shipping extra

Doug Boudakian

@Durango

Re: Any narrow gauge news/ coupler bounce is prototypical

Earl Knoob
 

One must also understand how the draft (pulling) and buff (pushing) forces act on the prototype.  When pulling up hill, the slack is stretched.  It is going down grade where it gets interesting.  The slack will run in to the engine and stay that way until the air brakes are applied and the train then stretches the slack.  In the days of steam, you did all you could to keep the slack stretched out.  The problem with out HOn3 models is the cars don't roll free enough to keep the train bunched against the engine.  If there was enough drag in the cars, they could be kept stretched going down grade, but then the locomotives couldn't pull anything up grade.  Back in the dark ages of DC operation I had a couple of cabooses set up with rear marker lights and rail wipers that provided power for lamps.  With the wipers down, I almost had to double head the caboose up grades.  But going down grade, it anchored the train nicely and kept it stretched.  The solution was to rig up a way for the wiper to be pulled up off the rail when running up hill.  The wiper could be manipulated with a tooth pick when the train was stopped.  Kinda crude, but it worked and all trains had to stop at the top of the grades for an "airbrake inspection" before starting down.


From: HOn3@groups.io <HOn3@groups.io> on behalf of ftgcss <ftgc@...>
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 10:45 AM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Any narrow gauge news/ coupler bounce is prototypical
 
Coupler "bounce" as you describe it only happens on cars with cushioned drawbars (auto racks, lumber racks and some box cars for example) narrow gauge cars of 50's and previous did not have cushioned drawbars and therefore had no "bounce".  Additionally even with cushioned drawbars once the slack is stretched the couplers stay pulled out unlike Kadees whose springs can actually pull the cars back together and make the train look like a slinky going down the track.

Scott

Re: Any narrow gauge news/ coupler bounce is prototypical

ftgcss
 

Coupler "bounce" as you describe it only happens on cars with cushioned drawbars (auto racks, lumber racks and some box cars for example) narrow gauge cars of 50's and previous did not have cushioned drawbars and therefore had no "bounce".  Additionally even with cushioned drawbars once the slack is stretched the couplers stay pulled out unlike Kadees whose springs can actually pull the cars back together and make the train look like a slinky going down the track.

Scott

Re: Any narrow gauge news from the NMRA National Convention-Change subject line

Don Peterson
 

Any chance we can change the subject line to reflect the subject being discussed?

Don Peterson

On Thursday, July 18, 2019, 9:40:56 PM MDT, Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:


Dusty

Question 1
Yes
Question 2
Don’t know. 242 box is a different animal not seen by these eyes.
Question 3
Already answered in question 1

After all is said and done. I am really glad Kadee has done an updated design. I was long overdue. 

But, now that I have been using Sergents for quite a while now. They are easier for me to assemble and mount.

This new 705 really needs its designed coupler box. Which means my scratch built and Blackstone cars would all need coupler box area surgery to use them.

All a built up Sergent coupler needs is to be dropped in a 714 or 714 clone coupler box. That works for me!

Dale B



On Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 19:58 Art D3 <apdutra3@...> wrote:
We'll have to wait a little longer for 705 couplers. Just check Kadee's website (7/18 9:45PM) and they are sold out until Monday 7/22. I guess that Kadee is finding out how annoying the old coupler bounce is!
--
Art Dutra
Meriden, CT