Date   

Re: Shapeways resins

John Stutz
 

Thanks Al

I will give it a try.

John

On 11/19/2018 01:53 PM, asandrini wrote:
John,
My wife gave me a scratched teflon frying pan.
I put it in the stove, get the water warn-to hot, not boiling. I dont put more than 1/4" of water. I let it stay about 39 seconds at a time, then check to see if is warm.  Once the material us warm, I take it out and lay it on a piece of granite left over from remodeling the kitchen.
Usually I can get it flat in one to two attempts.  The key is to get all the material warm (gently) so that it will stay flat when laid out. I was never successful with putting it under a lamp and letting the heat from a bulb heat the resin. Try fi doing anything but an LED light now.
BAFC
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "John Stutz via Groups.Io" <john.c.stutz=nasa.gov@groups.io>
Date: 11/19/18 1:16 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] Shapeways resins
Any advice Mike, on how to straighten warped pieces?
I have an HOn3 WP&Y depressed center flat done in the FED/Smoothest resin. It
bowed up to about a 20 degree difference in the end deck angles.  I tried to
straighten it, and broke it.  Is there any way to safely straighten such?
John Stutz
On 11/18/2018 07:58 PM, Mike Conder wrote:
> The two resins are very similar, used to be FUD (frosted ultra detail IIRC) and
> FUD (frosted extreme detail), now Smooth and Smoothest.  For car sides I would
> spend the extra on the Snoothest.
>
> But remember, both are brittle resins so be careful handling the and DON'T DROP
> THEM!
>
> Mike Conder
--


Re: Shapeways resins

Mike Conder
 

That's exactly what I'd try ... hot, hot water.  Not sure about max temp, trial and error, there, but Shapeways says it's good to 176°F.

Mike Conder

On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 2:53 PM asandrini <asandrini@... wrote:
John,

My wife gave me a scratched teflon frying pan. 

I put it in the stove, get the water warn-to hot, not boiling. I dont put more than 1/4" of water. I let it stay about 39 seconds at a time, then check to see if is warm.  Once the material us warm, I take it out and lay it on a piece of granite left over from remodeling the kitchen. 

Usually I can get it flat in one to two attempts.  The key is to get all the material warm (gently) so that it will stay flat when laid out. I was never successful with putting it under a lamp and letting the heat from a bulb heat the resin. Try fi doing anything but an LED light now.

BAFC



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "John Stutz via Groups.Io" <john.c.stutz=nasa.gov@groups.io>
Date: 11/19/18 1:16 PM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: [HOn3] Shapeways resins

Any advice Mike, on how to straighten warped pieces?

I have an HOn3 WP&Y depressed center flat done in the FED/Smoothest resin. It
bowed up to about a 20 degree difference in the end deck angles.  I tried to
straighten it, and broke it.  Is there any way to safely straighten such?

John Stutz

On 11/18/2018 07:58 PM, Mike Conder wrote:
> The two resins are very similar, used to be FUD (frosted ultra detail IIRC) and
> FUD (frosted extreme detail), now Smooth and Smoothest.  For car sides I would
> spend the extra on the Snoothest.
>
> But remember, both are brittle resins so be careful handling the and DON'T DROP
> THEM!
>
> Mike Conder




Re: Shapeways resins

asandrini
 

John,

My wife gave me a scratched teflon frying pan. 

I put it in the stove, get the water warn-to hot, not boiling. I dont put more than 1/4" of water. I let it stay about 39 seconds at a time, then check to see if is warm.  Once the material us warm, I take it out and lay it on a piece of granite left over from remodeling the kitchen. 

Usually I can get it flat in one to two attempts.  The key is to get all the material warm (gently) so that it will stay flat when laid out. I was never successful with putting it under a lamp and letting the heat from a bulb heat the resin. Try fi doing anything but an LED light now.

BAFC



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "John Stutz via Groups.Io" <john.c.stutz@...>
Date: 11/19/18 1:16 PM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: [HOn3] Shapeways resins

Any advice Mike, on how to straighten warped pieces?

I have an HOn3 WP&Y depressed center flat done in the FED/Smoothest resin. It
bowed up to about a 20 degree difference in the end deck angles.  I tried to
straighten it, and broke it.  Is there any way to safely straighten such?

John Stutz

On 11/18/2018 07:58 PM, Mike Conder wrote:
> The two resins are very similar, used to be FUD (frosted ultra detail IIRC) and
> FUD (frosted extreme detail), now Smooth and Smoothest.  For car sides I would
> spend the extra on the Snoothest.
>
> But remember, both are brittle resins so be careful handling the and DON'T DROP
> THEM!
>
> Mike Conder




Shapeways resins

John Stutz
 

Any advice Mike, on how to straighten warped pieces?

I have an HOn3 WP&Y depressed center flat done in the FED/Smoothest resin. It bowed up to about a 20 degree difference in the end deck angles. I tried to straighten it, and broke it. Is there any way to safely straighten such?

John Stutz

On 11/18/2018 07:58 PM, Mike Conder wrote:
The two resins are very similar, used to be FUD (frosted ultra detail IIRC) and FUD (frosted extreme detail), now Smooth and Smoothest.  For car sides I would spend the extra on the Snoothest.
But remember, both are brittle resins so be careful handling the and DON'T DROP THEM!
Mike Conder


Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle

Ken Martin
 


A friend of mine Dave Good, built an HO model of the trestle for the Sacramento club. He has over 300 hours in it and it is about 98% complete.

You can see it next year as we will be open for the NNGC.

Ken Martin
Sacramento







Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

jhoff02@...
 

please send me copy. Jim


Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

Doc
 

I do need to point out that my model of the Owenyo transfer trestle does not have the angled boards between the upper and lower decks.  The narrow gauge ore cars were side dump that required scoops (boards) to channel the ore into the center to load the standard gauge cars.  The narrow gauge ore cars on our railroad are center dump hoppers.  The channeling boards can be modeled by inserting strips of wood or plastic under the upper level of the trestle.
doc


Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

kevin b
 

as many of us have asked etc, might as well just send 1 email to the whole group at once.

thanks in advance.
Kevin



From: Doc <railroadops@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2018 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

 I will gather the files from my computer archives this week and send the to all who have requested them.  Thanksgiving and family will limit the time I have available.
doc




Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

Doc
 

 I will gather the files from my computer archives this week and send the to all who have requested them.  Thanksgiving and family will limit the time I have available.
doc


Re: Jordan Spreader

Margie & Larry Galkowski
 

Forgot the photo

On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 7:02 PM tonyk537 via Groups.Io <Tonyk375=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The width over the side sills of D&RGW OU is 4'-7".  Having said this, if it was built with the SG end sills it could still run on NG trucks without a problem as long as it clears.  It is your railroad, does the foot or so difference in width matter for that piece of equipment.  Having a departed friend's piece of equipment would outweigh the width issue for me.  The decking overhangs the frame on the end with the operators cabin anyway.

I think the best option for trucks for the Jordan is a set of Central Valley.  They are oversized heavy trucks like the OU has.  I also use them on passenger cars that been converted to MOW and lost their trucks to the Silverton.  


Re: Jordan Spreader

Margie & Larry Galkowski
 

This is the spreader. He built it for HO, now it sits with narrow gauge trucks ( not Central Valley yet) & couplers on a dead end in the unfinished yard.
It does look similar to some photos I found.
Thanks to all for the info.
Larry G.


On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 7:02 PM tonyk537 via Groups.Io <Tonyk375=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The width over the side sills of D&RGW OU is 4'-7".  Having said this, if it was built with the SG end sills it could still run on NG trucks without a problem as long as it clears.  It is your railroad, does the foot or so difference in width matter for that piece of equipment.  Having a departed friend's piece of equipment would outweigh the width issue for me.  The decking overhangs the frame on the end with the operators cabin anyway.

I think the best option for trucks for the Jordan is a set of Central Valley.  They are oversized heavy trucks like the OU has.  I also use them on passenger cars that been converted to MOW and lost their trucks to the Silverton.  


Re: tsunami 2 keep alive

jhoff02@...
 

What should cv 11 be set to? Jim


Steel rail (was Re: Bending ME Turnouts-flex track.)

Mick Moignard
 

As well as Triang's Magnadesion, (which did work well as I recall from my own pre-teen toy trains), DCC Concepts sell an aftermarket version: https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/specialised-model-accessories/dccconcepts-powerbase/  No idea whether it's really any good, but I suspect it will have some value.

Here in the UK there is also a movement in the scale end of the hobby to use steel rail: C&L sell UK rail in steel - bullhead and some flatbottom, but sadly not as small section as we might like.  Certainly steel rail is good for better traction than nickel silver, and coupled with steel or stainless steel tyres, better still.  Steel and stainless tyres give better traction on nickel silver than other tyre materials, too.    The steel rail has some lead in it which prevents rusting in normal use, but any sort of acid flux for soldering will cause rust to bloom on it, as will chemical blackening.  However, fine emery and constant operation will keep the rail heads clean. Only other issue is soldering to it for wiring.  

Mick
______________________________________________________________________
Mick Moignard
Specialising in DCC Sound
p: +44 7774 652504
e:
mick@...
skype: mickmoignard
IBM Notes and Domino: still has what it takes as an App Dev and Collaboration platform.


Re: tsunami 2 keep alive

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Russ,

What is the setting on CV11?

Mark K


Re: Bending ME Turnouts-flex track.

LARRY KLOSE
 

Re magnets for traction, Lionel tinplate has had “Magne -Traction” for at least 70 years. It uses magnetized wheels.
In Sn3, PBL locos all have stainless steel locomotive wheel treads and they pull well. Their producer now is Boo Rim and HOn3 brass models they produce may have the same thing. PPBL’s older locos by Samhongsa have the same.

Larry


Re: Shapeways Narrow Guage Unlimited question

Mike Conder
 

The two resins are very similar, used to be FUD (frosted ultra detail IIRC) and FUD (frosted extreme detail), now Smooth and Smoothest.  For car sides I would spend the extra on the Snoothest.

But remember, both are brittle resins so be careful handling the and DON'T DROP THEM!

Mike Conder 

On Sun, Nov 18, 2018, 2:00 PM Dusty <dustburm@q.com> wrote:
There appears to be two grades of 'finish'. 'Smooth' and 'Smoothest'. So is this a material difference or an intersection point density thing. Like 3D DPI or something?

Due to a rare, unanticipated budget surplus I'm considering a parlour car. I have 'finish' choices but I'm not sure what they actually mean in terms of the final product.

Dusty Burman 


Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

Mike Conder
 

Really nice, Doc!  I've been doing 3D work with printing by Shapeways, but those photos make me want to get my own printer.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 8:25 AM Doc <railroadops@...> wrote:
I have files needed to 3D print the transfer dock and trestle ramp.  Photos in the photo gallery.

doc


Re: C&C/SP Owenyo, CA transfer trestle?

rick@...
 

Doc,

Nice job! Looks great.

Rick


Shapeways Narrow Guage Unlimited question

M2fq@...
 

Dusty

As someone who does 3D printing and design - Unless you want a sugar cube mess - get the highest resolution possible.

Yes, its more expensive, but worth it.



Gary Kohler
m2fq@...
330-719-0264


Shapeways Narrow Guage Unlimited question

Dusty
 

There appears to be two grades of 'finish'. 'Smooth' and 'Smoothest'. So is this a material difference or an intersection point density thing. Like 3D DPI or something?

Due to a rare, unanticipated budget surplus I'm considering a parlour car. I have 'finish' choices but I'm not sure what they actually mean in terms of the final product.

Dusty Burman 

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