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Precision Scale Brass Truck assembly

Kevin Miller
 

I recently picked up a couple of PS Co. 34' stock car kits at our local swap meet.  One kit has brass trucks.  I am wondering if they should be soldered together or rely on just the crimped connection of the bolsters to the side frames while allowing a little flex in the joints?  I'm building these for a friend so I'd hate to have them fall apart on him.
Thanks,
Kevin


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

John Stutz
 

Dusty

Photographs suggest that CATS has some open passenger sided cars built on former D&RGW 6500 series flats. I do not have details on this.

And while the bolster spacing is unusual for a NG flat car, it is about right for a SG car that originally used their standard 5'6" WB trucks, since bolsters are typically about one truck WB in from the ends.

Does anyone know more about D&SNG's provision of steel underframes for their passenger cars? I believe that White Pass reinforced their passenger cars during the late 1950's and early 1960's, using made to order steel underframes. Some of which actually ended up as flatcars in the catchall 10xx series.

John Stutz

On 10/17/2018 07:15 AM, Dusty wrote:
The bolster spacing looks interesting. I seem to recall at some point the CATS acquired standard gauge stock or flatcars that provided under frames for passenger cars.
Dusty Burman


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

Dusty
 

The bolster spacing looks interesting. I seem to recall at some point the CATS acquired standard gauge stock or flatcars that provided under frames for passenger cars.

Dusty Burman


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

Mick Moignard
 

Interesting, 6634 looks like a brand new boxcar built on a flat.  

Mick

________________________________
Mick Moignard
m: +44 7774 652504
Skype: mickmoignard

, so please excuse the typos.


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Brian Jansky
 

Thanks for all of the replies! Yes, I have used various pieces of of wood / yard sticks to make protractors for center lines before but my goal is to avoid what Jim mentioned about one part of the curve dipping inside the minimum radius. It makes sense that someone already makes pieces for this. Thank yall for suggesting sweep sticks and ribbon rail. 

Kent, I sent you a PM.

Thanks everyone,
Brian


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

John Stutz
 

Chris et.al.

Does anyone know what this car is?

It looks enough like a box car to fool the average tourist, but take a close look. The door hangers are particularly blatant. The safety appliances might pass current standards, but are nothing like any historic car. It is built on a steel frame of about 40' length, probably one of the later pipe gons converted from circa 1914 SG box and stock cars. The trucks look to be the 40ton ASF cast steel version, as used under the 6500s, but this car lacks the 6500s' fishbelly.

John Stutz

On 10/16/2018 05:46 AM, Chris Kodani via Groups.Io wrote:
Dusty, I saw this article, and immediately thought about your project! It
would appear that lavender is completely prototypical, even in 3 ft narrow
gauge! https://durangoherald.com/articles/86339


Kickstart Diorama of the Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn RR

Ed Tibbetts
 

I wanted to let fellow modelers know that I've begun a kickstarter campaign to raise funds for a model of the Boston, Revere Beach and Lynn RR to be installed in the Lynn Museum'  It can be found here http://kck.st/2yeJSCP for those interested.  Thank you.
Todd Gieg (toddgieg@...)


For sale Rio Grande Models kits

Doug Boudakian <dboudrrtrain@...>
 

HO/HOn3 kits
3044 Locomotive Hoist Building. Brand new. $20
3071 Erie Power Shovel Kit. New, missing instructions. $20.

Shipping extra
Doug Boudakian

dboudrrtrain@sbcglobal.net


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

Dusty
 

Progress report.

Here's the glass lined tanks 'reefer' so far. Too cheap to use Blackstone passenger trucks so I used MDC. I didn't cut car lines for the roof radius. I bent .020 x .030 scribed around copper 1/2(?) And ACCed onto a roof plug with an .080 x .080 center stringer. Good enough for a farcical purple wine car.

Dusty Burman


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

jmcqiv@...
 

I made my curve templets the old fashion way by drilling holes in a yard stick.  The wooden measuring stick that you could get free from a lumber yard with their advertising on it.  Now you have to pay for the yard sticks. 
I then used the yard stick like a compass ( remember them).
 I drew lines on a piece of 1/8 inch and cut them out with a band saw or scroll saw

Jim McQueeny MMR477
Rockford, IL USA.  



From: Russ Norris <rbnorrisjr@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: [HOn3] 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

That's how I set my curves.  I was a little less handy, ordering a set of clamps from Micro Mark to make my protractor from a piece of 1x3.  One clamp has a sharp point, the other holds a pencil.  It's probably one of my most helpful tools.

Russ Norris



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...>
Date: 10/15/18 9:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Brian,

Make one! I made my sweeps from cardboard. I made a protractor out of a piece of wood, drilled a pivot at one end and marked the centre line at the other (I was using a different radius). Cut it out carefully. It doesn't need to sit between the tracks, just follow the centre line when you mark it and keep an eye on the 'fairness' of the curve,

Mark K



Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Kent Hurley <nvrr49@...>
 

To the original poster.  How large do you want it?  1/8 of the circle?  How large is the printer you are going to use.  I can draw it in less than 10 minutes.


Kent Hurley 
Kansas City, MO 
Check out my blog at http://nvrr49.blogspot.com/


On Tuesday, October 16, 2018, 8:27:02 AM CDT, Jim Marlett <jmarlett@...> wrote:


I have Fast Tracks sweeps. I like the fact that two or more can be put together to make long sweeps. I have made two 18” long sweeps by glueing two sweeps together and if I need something really long, can put the two glued sections together for 36” sweeps. I should note that I hand lay my track the old fashioned way with spikes instead of solder. The sweeps are much more helpful than a center line, although I have used both. I have a couple of pieces of flex track that I use as a tie laying guide by running a Sharpie along the edges of the flex track ties and the sweeps are great for laying out curves on my flex track guides. One section of track on my previous layout was done only using center lines and I had a brass K37 that didn’t really care for a curve on that section when it was close-coupled to the tender. After tearing the layout apart for a move, my recently acquired long sweeps showed that I had gone under my 24” minimum radius in a short spot on that curve even though it averaged out at 24". That section is coming out as I rebuild my layout in its new home.


--
Kent in KC
nvrr49.blogspot.com


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Jim Marlett
 

I have Fast Tracks sweeps. I like the fact that two or more can be put together to make long sweeps. I have made two 18” long sweeps by glueing two sweeps together and if I need something really long, can put the two glued sections together for 36” sweeps. I should note that I hand lay my track the old fashioned way with spikes instead of solder. The sweeps are much more helpful than a center line, although I have used both. I have a couple of pieces of flex track that I use as a tie laying guide by running a Sharpie along the edges of the flex track ties and the sweeps are great for laying out curves on my flex track guides. One section of track on my previous layout was done only using center lines and I had a brass K37 that didn’t really care for a curve on that section when it was close-coupled to the tender. After tearing the layout apart for a move, my recently acquired long sweeps showed that I had gone under my 24” minimum radius in a short spot on that curve even though it averaged out at 24". That section is coming out as I rebuild my layout in its new home.


Re: Spraying Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint

Chris Kodani <ckodani@...>
 
Edited


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Russ Norris
 

That's how I set my curves.  I was a little less handy, ordering a set of clamps from Micro Mark to make my protractor from a piece of 1x3.  One clamp has a sharp point, the other holds a pencil.  It's probably one of my most helpful tools.

Russ Norris



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...>
Date: 10/15/18 9:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Brian,

Make one! I made my sweeps from cardboard. I made a protractor out of a piece of wood, drilled a pivot at one end and marked the centre line at the other (I was using a different radius). Cut it out carefully. It doesn't need to sit between the tracks, just follow the centre line when you mark it and keep an eye on the 'fairness' of the curve,

Mark K


Slim Gauge Guild Open House.

Traintalk
 

The Slim Gauge Guild Model RR Club would like to invite you to their open house Sunday November 4th from 10am to 6pm and Tuesday November 6th from 6pm to 10pm.

The Slim Gauge Guild is located on the South East corner of Raymond and Del Mar in Old Town Pasadena. The address is 300 S. Raymond, Pasadena CA. 91105

The club features two layouts in a 2000 sq. ft. basement. The HO/HOn3 layout has a Colorado theme and centers around Salida in the 1920s as the track goes up the Black Canyon and enters Cimarron Colorado. From there the track joins the Rio Grande Southern part of the layout with Ophir and the Gallagher Loop.

The S/Sn3 layout has a California high country theme with massive mountains and high bridges. The upper level has a West Side Lumber logging scenes.

Come join us. Admission is always free. Memberships are available.

Out website http://www.slimgaugeguild.com has a Google map link to the club.


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Brian,

Make one! I made my sweeps from cardboard. I made a protractor out of a piece of wood, drilled a pivot at one end and marked the centre line at the other (I was using a different radius). Cut it out carefully. It doesn't need to sit between the tracks, just follow the centre line when you mark it and keep an eye on the 'fairness' of the curve,

Mark K


Re: 3D Printer File for 20" Curve Aid

Robert Bell
 

The Ribbon Rail sweeps work beautifully and can be ordered from Walthers.  I have been using them on my layout and love them. They also have 10" long straight sweeps.  And they're NOT expensive.

Rob Bell
WP&YR, Hard Ridge Div.
Waynesville, NC


On Sunday, October 14, 2018 12:05 PM, Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...> wrote:


FastTracks has laser cut sweeps that are non-conductive too, in all scales and in 1" radius increments.

Mike Conder

On Sun, Oct 14, 2018 at 9:13 AM Ric Case <ebtmodeler@...> wrote:
Ribbon rail offers 18inch through at least 36 inch 


On Oct 14, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Brian Jansky <brianj844@...> wrote:

Hi I was wondering if anyone might have a 3D printer file for printing curve aids for a 20" curve for HOn3 track? (a plastic piece that you can put between the rails of flex track and ran through your curve to ensure a smooth curve at the desired radius.) I am wondering if someone might of already drawn one up and would be willing to share it. 

Thanks,
Brian



Re Mini Connectors - Headlight?

roundbell@...
 

The old P F M individual Mini Connectors are available from LocoDoc.com ( Roundbell com) in packs of 20 with wire to make the plugs for $4.95 + $ 1 shipping for any size order.   See    LOCODOC.com,      Supplies,     Mini Connectors      They are also available to dealers for resale.
      These were described in the recent Rail Model Craftsman article on upgrading older brass steam locomotives but no source was listed.     Wayne Weiss


-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Melhorn <toyman@...>
To: HOn3 <HOn3@groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Oct 10, 2018 11:40 am
Subject: Re: [HOn3] K-36 #487 in HOn3 - Headlight?

Hi Dale,
I’ve been following this thread and you mentioned micro connectors. Do you have a P/N, a link or manufacturers info on the ones you use? I found some Mill-Max  50 pin .050 (1,27mm) spaced machined pin headers and sockets, both single row and double row, from Mouser. The 50 pin versions seem to be the only ones they stock. I can cut them down to the appropriate size, i.e., 1x2, 1x3, 1x4, 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, etc. and solder the wires to them. I know that Miniatronics sells 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4 pre-wired sets and TCS sells 1x2, 1x4, 1x6 and 2x3 pre-wired sets in the .050 (1,27mm) spacing. But they are pricey, hence my ordering the connectors from Mouser. With 32 Ga silicone wire, I’m confident I can make my own for 1/5 the price of the pre-wired sets.
Joe Melhorn
Sahuarita, AZ


Re: Couplers

John Stutz
 

Larry

Regarding MK4's and similar:  You want a bit of wire that fits into the centering spring, and  is a little shorter than the free space between the pivot post and the coupler's spring retaining loop.  In other words, a bit shorter than the spring when it is in the retaining loop but otherwise not compressed.   The longer the dowel, the less free motion is available for slinky action.  BUT the longer the dowel is, the tighter the  limits are  on coupler side swing.  So you have a trade off here.  Kadee had to dimension the coupler/box interface to accommodate the tightest model curves.  You probably have larger curves, so can work with less side swing.

Details;

- A dowel that is shorter than the fully compressed spring will have no effect on slinky action or side swing.

- Camfer the dowel ends slightly, so it will slide freely through the centering spring.  Any tendency to catch on the spring will effectively lengthen the dowel, and further limit coupler side swing.

- The place where side swing is most critical is on track where a circular curve passes directly into a straight section, without any transition spiral.  Maximum end offset occurs with  one car on the curve, and the other on the straight, generally  increasing with the length of the car on the curve.  This sort of "snap-track" transition is the main reason that model coupler draft gear allows such extreme coupler side swing.  I believe that the D&RGW buffing block (a.k.a. coupler pocket) opening is only 2" wider than the coupler shank.  We cannot run with such limits, but we can eliminate much of the excessive side swing, and simultaneously reduce slinky action.

John Stutz

On 10/13/2018 10:43 AM, LARRY KLOSE wrote:
" A very short section of small diameter rod, called a spacer dowel, was
available to be inserted inside of the coil spring to limit stretching.
This could be done on any coupler using a coil spring in the draft gear
box."

Does anyone know the length of this rod? Seems like an easy DIY solution.
I have a couple of kits that take MK4's that I'd like to fit this way.

Larry


Re: Looking for Silverton Information

tonyk537
 

These are my favorite buildings in Silverton.  And I love all the detail of the back of some of them.

Sloan's Rainbow Route has some good info on Silverton and a couple of maps but I'm not sure of the dates.

7001 - 7020 of 8459