Date   
Re: #18

Paul Sturtz
 

The six-motor "draft truck" was developed to carry the physically more compact GE_747 motor.  The standard GE-748 motor would not fit in 36-inch gauge locomotives  .Not only did this solve the traction motor problems but it relieved the truck centers and carbody from the stresses of pulling heavy trains.  U.S. Potash in Loving, NM had three of these 70t diesels, the only narrow gauge 70t built for a US road.
Paul Sturtz

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Lee Sorensen
 

Jim

You probably can send him an email and he will send a few pics back. Glad you found the other ones.

 

I have several of the other brass units overland 486,487 and 488. I have not been able to find time to put the decoders in but in dc they run very slow without jumping.

 

Lee

 

 

From: HOn3@groups.io [mailto:HOn3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jim Spencer
Sent: September 13, 2018 2:21 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] K-36 #487 in HOn3

 

Lee, thank you.  I have later found out that there is one photo and some YouTube videos on the Division Point website of both the K-36 and K-37 pilot models pulling trains.  

Jim



On Sep 13, 2018, at 10:52 AM, Lee Sorensen <narrowminded2@...> wrote:

 

Jim

Re: Hon3 DP pilot models.

Sorry, did not think to take photos. They looked very nice and ran very well but to exact specifications, I’m not fluent enough to opine. 

 

He was there to take orders, but did not have an exact delivery date. He guessed at $2,200/engine. Since he did not have a firm order in for quantity pricing was to be announced later.

 

Lee Sorensen

 

From: HOn3@groups.io [mailto:HOn3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jim Spencer
Sent: September 12, 2018 5:32 PM
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] K-36 #487 in HOn3

 

Lee, did you happen to take photos of these, presumably, DP pilot models?  Can you share?

 

Thanks,

Jim




On Sep 12, 2018, at 3:01 PM, Lee Sorensen <narrowminded2@...> wrote:

 

He was running the DP units with a cheap power (dc) supply and they were crawling. It appears as though the workmanship is great. Additional cost of 150 or so for DCC by another person recommended by DP

Lee Sorensen 

 

James G. Spencer, Architect, AIA 

 

 




 

 

James G. Spencer, Architect, AIA 

 

 



 

HOn3 PSC locomotives and books for sale.

tonyk537
 

Hello all,  Thinning my roster of some duplicates.

Any of the Precision Scale locomotives are $600 which includes shipping.  I prefer the PSC to anything else made 
and find it head and shoulders better.  I have the two C-19s also in PSC that I have repainted to newer lettering so these must go.
The other two are Dupes..  All include the box, foam and packaging as new except the #25.  

PSC RGS 25  gently used factory painted with large numbers on tender.  box is slightly damaged. Came from Dick Dorman's layout.
PSC RGS 40  New and never used factory painted with large numbers on tender
PSC RGS 41  New and never used factory painted with large numbers on tender
PSC D&RGW 271  New and never used factory painted with bug herald on tender
BLW Rail speeder with trailer,   $500 new in box.  Factory painted yellow with no lettering.

Books
Richard Dorman Books.  All are signed. $60 ea. includes shipping
The Southern
Chama
Gunnison
Alamosa
Rio Grande Southern
Rio Grande Southern II

The Mineral Belt by Digerness Vol 1  like new signed $60
The Mineral Belt by Digerness Vol 2 like new signed $60
Rails that climb by Bollinger passable condition.  Signed $30
South Park's Gunnison Division Memeories by Klinger like new signed $35

Tony Kassin
tonyk375@...

Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Jim Betz
 

Hi,
  I opened up a Westside K-36 today in order to lube it (probably didn't need to)
The attached picture is of the motor and running gear.  There are zero markings
on this motor - it is just black.  Is this probably the not so desirable Namiki (?)
motor (i.e. the original)?  The model is nicely painted but does not appear to
have -ever- been run other than just to demo it for a few minutes.

  I am not looking forward to tearing it down again.  I have it back together
but it took about 45 minutes of fiddling to get all the various 'parts' back to
where they should be ... piston rods, crosshead slides, valve rod, the 3
'braces' for the plow, and finally the pilot truck ... and then I had to figure
out how to bet the gear cover back on the bottom of the gear box
(removed to inspect and lube gear box).

  The cab roof is 'loose' - as in it can be moved and 'repositioned' (without
actually removing it.  There is one screw that seems to be there to hold it
in place ... but it doesn't.  Any hints on that?
                                                                                                        - Jim B.

Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Jim Betz
 

  Sorry, forgot to attach picture!  Doh.

Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Jim Spencer
 

Though I don’t own one of Westside K-36s, I have several smaller C-class locos with the Namiki motors.  They all work fine.  But your motor doesn’t look like a Namiki.  It is quite large, though maybe there was a larger version used in the K-36s.

But if it runs, put it back together and run it.  Also, the main gearbox should be accessible from underneath without need to remove the boiler-cab.  There should be cover plate that when removed exposes the main drive great that meshes with the worm above.  That gear will need to be greased.  The rest, rods, wheel bearings, should be oiled.

Good luck.,
Jim

On Sep 14, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Hi,
  I opened up a Westside K-36 today in order to lube it (probably didn't need to)
The attached picture is of the motor and running gear.  There are zero markings
on this motor - it is just black.  Is this probably the not so desirable Namiki (?)
motor (i.e. the original)?  The model is nicely painted but does not appear to
have -ever- been run other than just to demo it for a few minutes.

  I am not looking forward to tearing it down again.  I have it back together
but it took about 45 minutes of fiddling to get all the various 'parts' back to
where they should be .. piston rods, crosshead slides, valve rod, the 3
'braces' for the plow, and finally the pilot truck ... and then I had to figure
out how to bet the gear cover back on the bottom of the gear box
(removed to inspect and lube gear box).

  The cab roof is 'loose' - as in it can be moved and 'repositioned' (without
actually removing it.  There is one screw that seems to be there to hold it
in place ... but it doesn't.  Any hints on that?
                                                                                                        - Jim B.

James G. Spencer, Architect, AIA 





Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Jim Spencer
 

I should add: but don’t oil the tender wheels.  That wipes out the electrical continuity to the left rail. 

On Sep 14, 2018, at 11:55 AM, Jim Spencer <trainmanjs@...> wrote:

Though I don’t own one of Westside K-36s, I have several smaller C-class locos with the Namiki motors.  They all work fine.  But your motor doesn’t look like a Namiki.  It is quite large, though maybe there was a larger version used in the K-36s.

But if it runs, put it back together and run it.  Also, the main gearbox should be accessible from underneath without need to remove the boiler-cab.  There should be cover plate that when removed exposes the main drive great that meshes with the worm above.  That gear will need to be greased.  The rest, rods, wheel bearings, should be oiled.

Good luck.,
Jim

On Sep 14, 2018, at 10:53 AM, Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote:

Hi,
  I opened up a Westside K-36 today in order to lube it (probably didn't need to)
The attached picture is of the motor and running gear.  There are zero markings
on this motor - it is just black.  Is this probably the not so desirable Namiki (?)
motor (i.e. the original)?  The model is nicely painted but does not appear to
have -ever- been run other than just to demo it for a few minutes.

  I am not looking forward to tearing it down again.  I have it back together
but it took about 45 minutes of fiddling to get all the various 'parts' back to
where they should be . piston rods, crosshead slides, valve rod, the 3
'braces' for the plow, and finally the pilot truck ... and then I had to figure
out how to bet the gear cover back on the bottom of the gear box
(removed to inspect and lube gear box).

  The cab roof is 'loose' - as in it can be moved and 'repositioned' (without
actually removing it.  There is one screw that seems to be there to hold it
in place ... but it doesn't.  Any hints on that?
                                                                                                        - Jim B.

James G. Spencer, Architect, AIA 






James G. Spencer, Architect, AIA 





Old Sundance Calenders

veronifamily
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253867391269  Folks have a lot of old Sundance Calenders on e bay with great photos of the Narrow Gauge thanks for looking

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Graeme Walker
 

Mick, interesting builder for the PSC 2002 run, I have one as well, #482, and have asked PSC just who the builder was, Locodoc list the builder as Boo Rim, but PSC have replied that it was MPS.
Just speaking on my model, as a looker it is stunning, as a runner not so. Have had DCC & Sound installed, and installer believed all it needed was some bench time breaking in, have done a good 20 + hours both directions over a few months with a couple of very light lubes mixed in and no improvement. There is a small bind that will stall at very slow speeds. Have looked at Locodocs pages for guidance.
We are maybe heading Colorado way next year for a trip to see the narrow gauge old and new, so thinking the #482 will be in my checked baggage for a visit to Locodoc for a much needed upgrade.

Regards

Graeme Walker
Kiwi in Australia

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Jim Spencer
 

Graeme, the most common reason for a driver bind is a driver out of quarter. You can actually eyeball which one it is by lifting the gearbox and worm off the main gear. Then with rods connected rotate the drivers to see which one appears to either lead or lag the others. It is then possible to twist the offending driver on its axle to correct the problem. I’ve done it many times.
Also I believe the PSC K-36s were built by MSM, same builder as the Overland K-36s.
Jim


On Sep 14, 2018, at 8:14 PM, Graeme Walker via Groups.Io <gcw1959@...> wrote:

Mick, interesting builder for the PSC 2002 run, I have one as well, #482, and have asked PSC just who the builder was, Locodoc list the builder as Boo Rim, but PSC have replied that it was MPS.
Just speaking on my model, as a looker it is stunning, as a runner not so. Have had DCC & Sound installed, and installer believed all it needed was some bench time breaking in, have done a good 20 + hours both directions over a few months with a couple of very light lubes mixed in and no improvement. There is a small bind that will stall at very slow speeds. Have looked at Locodocs pages for guidance.
We are maybe heading Colorado way next year for a trip to see the narrow gauge old and new, so thinking the #482 will be in my checked baggage for a visit to Locodoc for a much needed upgrade.

Regards

Graeme Walker
Kiwi in Australia

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Graeme,

There is no such thing as an ungrade for a bind. One of the mos common peices of advice given is that installing DCC into a poor running loco will not improve its performance. So before you do anything else to that loco, that bind has got to be cured. Also I'd add, and I'm trying to be diplomatic here, you don't go to Locodoc for a quick fix, advice yes and good advice, but Wayne can take his time over things.

Mark K
Durango CO.

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

jhoff02@...
 

I have two PSC engines, K36 and K37. They have great detail but major problem it you do any running the worm is soft brass and will wear out even with a lot of oiling. See loco Doc web page under precision Scale engines. There is no replacement worm available. He can make a replacement steel worm that requires you to send him the gear box, it does work but as Mark says don't expect fast results. jim

Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Mick Moignard
 

Bit late to say now, but you don't need to remove the cylinders to get the boiler off these things. The middle screw at the front releases the boiler; the other two hold the cylinders and the pilot to the frame and can be left in place.  However, as you have the cylinders off, you're going to have to fiddle them back into place with tweezers to  get the two valve rods and the two piston rods back in place.

To replace the motor, remove the whole gearbox from the chassis by removing the cover plate screws and wriggling it free. Unscrew and release the brass sleeve holding the motor from the rest of the gearbox.  Get the worm off the old shaft - heat it up with a solfdering iron and pull off, but don't damage the teeth.  Get a Mashima 1624 motor, and place the worm onto the shaft, secure with a small drop of superglue or some Loctite.  Screw the motor back into the gearbox and adjust the mesh. Replace gearbox in chassis and attach cover plate.  Wire motor to frame or decoder, and test.  Job done.  Doable in 15-30 minutes.  

Mick
______________________________________________________________________
Mick Moignard
Specialising in DCC Sound
p: +44 7774 652504
e:
mick@...
skype: mickmoignard
IBM Notes and Domino: still has what it takes as an App Dev and Collaboration platform.

Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

Jim Betz
 

Mick,
  Thanks for the detailed procedure.  My intent, at this time, is to leave
whatever motor is in it ... until it proves to be inadequate (for either
smoothness of running -or- just too wimpy to pull a decent train).
  If that happens I will definitely follow your process.
  Since it is a can of unknown origin (literally -no- markings on it)
I won't hesitate to replace it.  If I had to guess I would say it is
either a Mashima or a Sagami - simply because it is a black case.
I'm guessing it had a stick on label of some type that was removed
or fell off.

  I may even replace it as a matter of form when the DCC install is
done.
- Jim

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Mick Moignard
 

They were indeed made by MSM. Mine actually have an MSM makers plate under the tender!

Mick

________________________________
Mick Moignard
m: +44 7774 652504
Skype: mickmoignard

, so please excuse the typos.

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

Mark Kasprowicz
 

Does Locodoc make them himself or does he send them to NWSL I wonder?

Mark K
Durango CO

Re: K-36 #487 in HOn3

jhoff02@...
 

If you are asking about worms he told me he found screw with correct thread and cut it to length drilled hole in center and inserted shaft has to slightly modify the Gear box. Jim

Re: D&RGW 0452 Progress

Art D3
 

Here is a picture of the nearly completed 0452 on Mike Messick's layout. I just have a few details to add to complete this model. I've created a photo album with pictures of the entire Alamosa wrecker consist; derrick OP with its idler, the tool, block, and cable cars, rail and tie cars, wheel and tie car, and the kitchen car. There album also contains photos of several other MOW models I've finished to date.


--
Art Dutra
Meriden, CT

Re: D&RGW 0452 Progress

tonyk537
 

Very nice!

Re: D&RGW 0452 Progress

Jeff Young
 

Nice looking car!

Nice background, too. Are there pictures of Mike’s layout anywhere public?

Thanks,
Jeff.