Re: HOn3 brass kits on Brasstrains today
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i have made brass master patterns etc for autos,train fittings and weapons .No easy way to do it .I have also made UK etched loco kits .I tend to use a gas torch and bakers fluid and liquid solder The modern gas torches can get small but hot tips to their flame and hit a small area with a very hot temperature .So I torch up the large parts ,wire it all up if possible and then get working on the small parts piping last .I dri.l o/ut castings such as pumps to hold the pipes in place .A gas torch and liquid solder paste means you are not using three hands .its slash and burn and will slaughter your hands .I am sure a resistance unit is the way to go but I just dont do enough to warrant buying one.Good luck .The unmade kits are around since the 70's because they are bastards to do .I always turned them down despite painting hundreds of brass trains for people.If you want to glue parts on try to pin it on and use araldite to glue it in place .,Its stronger than ACC but still weaker than solder .If you use low melt solder dont for get dont paint and bake or you will get paint and melt .
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 2:55 PM Mick Moignard <mick@...> wrote:
I have a London Road Models RSU, and I have an Ersa Icon-1 soldering iron. Since I bought the Icon-1 I have used the RSU very rarely. Before I bought the Icon-1 I had made/repaired a lot of stuff including a PSC C-16 kit - which is largely the Kemtron design brought up to date - mostly with the RSU and that worked well. I also have done many quite complex soldering jobs, brass repairs, scratchbuilding, DCC installs, etc with the Icon-1, and highly recommend it. It's a variable power and variable temperature military spec machine that can keep the tip at the set temperature +/- about 5degC. If need be it can do 150W if the tip is trying to heat something big, but mostly runs a lot less than that.