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Thanks for all the helpful tips. I have also had pleasing results with Pan Pastels, which can be applied lightly with a sponge and wiped off if you are unhappy with the results. I use various shades of gray and rusty red a lot. I will explore using some of the weathering powders. Thanks.
An additional technique is after applying a light coat of your choice of paint is to use weathering powders. Several suppliers offer a color range including dust, rust and more. You want a dull finish before application. Amazing results. Ask Mr Google: "Weathering models with powders" for suppliers and tutorials.
On Tuesday, December 22, 2020, 3:06:21 PM CST, Climax@... <climax@...
A technique I use for buildings that are not newly painted is I never apply the paint with a brush or even air brush them. I wipe the paint on the wood ahead of time and let it dry. I can control the amount of paint by first dipping the paper towel or rag into thinner so that the wipe, always with the grain, is more like a very thin layer of paint. After that I take the jar of thinner that I clean brushes or other stuff in, which is full of sludge and shake it up. I do the same method on the fresh paint to tone it down and give an even look. I start building there. After I have the building built I take a brush and dip it into the slub again and touch the bottom of the wood where it meets the earth. I let it wick up to give the rotten look, then in the protected areas under the roofs, going down the walls to about a 45 degree point, I will take some paint very thinned out and put a wash where the sun did not bleach it out. The rest now I will give a dry brush with an off white, extremely light gray going down from high points, and then reverse it and do the same thing with an almost black, to darker gray on an up stroke with dry brushing. Metal roofs are easy to do it you use the metal standing seam or corrugated metal roofs. I use Ferric acid, use to be available from Radio Shack. I dip just until it hints at fizzing, then a very quick rinse in water, soapy water, then water and let dry on newspaper or paper towel gives a really good weathering effect PRIOR to applying it to the roof. Cedar shingle roofs I still do the dry brush technique as above but don't do the black/gray highlights. plus put back stains coming down form chimneys. Everyone develops their own techniques over time but that is what works for me. Another good place to get weathering fluids is Hunter LIne. I use several of their colors to very my structuer's looks..
From: "t_s_graser via groups.io"
Sent: Dec 22, 2020 12:54 PM
Subject: [HOn3] Weathering paint on structures
Hi, I’m fairly new to the hobby and have an hon3 layout. For the structures I’ve completed so far (a trestle and a couple of old mines) I’ve been able to get away with just using ink washes on the wood, but now I would like to embark on some painted buildings without them looking shiny and new. Are there some simple techniques for getting a weathered/aged look for a painted structure?