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Sure Bruce, I''l do that tomorrow. This can be as simple or as complicated as you want. On the simple end, I just ream out a # 1 or # 2 machined brass washer until it slips over the end of the drawbar post and then I solder it in place.
Then, sometimes I opt to lathe up a new post out of brass rod and thread it to 2mm and the other end has simply got a head like a flathead screw, I slot the head with a jewelers saw.
You can get the washers from Micro Mark of course in a package of 25 or you can go to J. I. Morris and get them in packages in multiples of 10s. I have found in the long run that it is far more economical to buy these from Morris. It seems like I always need more than 25. Either way you're still getting the Morris product.
I'll get on that photo tomorrow.
How about sharing a photo or two of your modified post. Sounds like something I might want to do.
And again, thanks for sharing.
Bruce, Disregard my first post. It's a 2mm thread. Sorry about that. I went looking to see if I had any that might work for you and I discovered my mistake. I have a bunch of Wastside C-16 drawbar posts but, those are too short for your needs. I have been replacing my drawbar posts with home made shouldered screws for some years now so that I don't have to frustratingly fiddle with the drawbar coming undone when a tender goes off the rails.
I would check with NWSL as well as Greenway for these.
Bruce, the draw bar post on these is 1.7mm thread. This thread size was pretty standard on Japanese made brass. Only the post length varied. Korea followed this same practice. Greenway Products probably has something you can use that will work.
I just purchased a HON3 BRASS WMC WESTSIDE D&RGW 2-8-2 K-27 - SLIDE VALVE at an estate sale. Looks to be in very good condition. However, it is missing the drawbar post that screws into the bottom front of the tender.
I assume it uses a metric thread. Does anyone know the screw thread used for this post? Or have one I could buy?