Re: coreless motors again


Lawrence Wisniewski <lwreno@...>
 

I thought about your concern about weakening the current path, and knowing that epoxy can serve to insulate, I proceeded cautiously.  I also began to analyze the various current paths available in brass  steamers and came to the conclusion that loss of the pathway through the springs might be well tolerated because there many ways for current to by pass the spring- frame interface.  Fortunately, it works very well..  I have since used this technique when ever I run into a spring that had it in for me.  I have had spring problems on a C-18 before, so I commend your dexterity and eyesight.  Mine happened when I accidentally (and stupidly I might add), loosened the wrong screw on the bottom plate and wound up with a handful of disassembled mechanism when I turned the thing over to check something.. Since this locomotive already had a good paint job that I didn't want to damage, the reassembly process, with those little springs ready to depart in all directions for parts unknown, was ample punishment for my lack of care.  Also, with HOn3 mechanisms I have learned to only disassemble them down to removal of the main rods at most. I carefully mask the wheel treads and any wiring or contact points that need to be paint free.  That's it.  I spray Scalecoat at 20 psi with a Badger 200 medium tip.  I spray the whole frame, wheels and all, but with sensible care given to avoiding soaking vulnerable spots like journal edges and other spots where build ups need to be avoided.  I also rotate the drivers to get good coverage on their surfaces and enough coverage on the frame behind to insure that no brass remains visible.  I've found that paint applied in this manner does not get into axle holes or freeze journals like one might think it would.  The wheel tread masking really reduces clean up time tremendously.   I also bake at 175 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes and have discovered no heat damage anywhere.  Reassembly afterwards is no longer a challenge to my sanity, that the number of electric contact issues is decreased sometimes to none at all, and that once the rods are attached, the drive elements are easily freed from any paint sticking by pushing the partially assembled mechanism down the tracks back and forth by hand until friction returns to the same level that was present before the painting began.   Add motor, gears, lube and you are done.  My last 10 locos were done this way and most were small Rio Grande and C&S engines.  At my age, I've found it necessary to test the validity of many common beliefs about how things should be done.  There seems to be a lot of room for successful experimentation in this hobby and I'm grateful that I can still remain active in it by finding simpler and less stressful ways of delivering the goods.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mick Moignard <mick@...>
To: HOn3@groups.io
Sent: Wed, May 13, 2020 9:51 am
Subject: Re: [HOn3] coreless motors again

Never seen an issue with Key spring C-18s and the springs, and I’ve done a few of these, and own two.  I would not hold the springs with any sort of glue, as that risks insulating it from the frame, and weakening the current path from right wheels to frame of which the springs are part.  Tamika contact grease is what I use to hold in place while assembling.  As to gluing the axleboxes to the frame, I’m amazed you have anything that runs even half decently afterwards.

Mick

________________________________
Mick Moignard
m: +44 7774 652504
Skype: mickmoignard

, so please excuse the typos.

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