Re: coreless motors again

Lawrence Wisniewski <lwreno@...>

I have remotored three of the late model Key C-18's.  I found Sagami motors in all three, and all three motors had unacceptable clogging.  I put Faulhaber 1319's in all three and they remain my best running small HOn3 locomotives eight years after their addition.  I've had similar experiences with Namiki motors as you have described.  After nearly going crazy dealing with those tiny driver springs and coming to the conclusion that they really contribute nothing to suspension improvement in HO scale (years ago someone noted that the physics of real springs in prototype locomotives require mass that makes it virtually impossible to get similar performance in small models, even with relatively weak metals) I resorted to a near permanent solution: I epoxy the damn things in place before reassembly . If for some reason (so far not encountered) that I need to remove them from the frame I'll try an acetone soak until the 5-minute epoxy releases them or simply yank them out and replace with spares.  I have yet to see any reason to continue suffering for what may well be a myth.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Spencer <trainmanjs@...>
Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 3:21 pm
Subject: Re: [HOn3] coreless motors again

I have a pair of the Key C-18 late runs with the sprung drivers.  Both have Namiki motors, a slower running version of a coreless motor.  But I don't know whether they are original to that run. Now I'm curious.  The Namikis that were used in Westsides of that period have tended to have their lubricants in sealed bearings dry out, then weaken their pulling power.  I took the slower running one, put it on its end and put a drop of Labelle 109 on the shaft at the bearing, then ran it for a couple of hours.  The idea was that the oil would migrate through the seals into the bearing.  It worked!
My experience with Sagami's (marketed by NWSL) was never good.  Now in reading, I know why. The Machimas are better.
On the question retaining the tiny driver springs, I have used a drop of canopy glue (that doesn't fully harden) to hold the spring in place when reinstalling the drivers, etc. Seems to work in that I haven't lost any since I started doing that.  It doesn't seem to affect the springing action.

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