Re: Remembering Frank Kappler


asandrini
 

Bill,

I have been busy with trying to deal with the effects of the virus in our bar/restaurant and at the golf course. 

I saw your post and here are 2 pictures of the drawer sides. The bottom of the drawer  has 1/4" hardwood pinned and glued to what seems to be either 1/8" cardboard or a very soft type of masonite. The material is not tempered, but doesn't  seem to be cardboard. It is solid with no corrugation.

The side of the drawers are 3/8" plywood (possibly lite ply, made from poplar, used in R/C aircraft construction). These sides are laminated with a 1/16" veneer.

The front of the drawer looks like 3/8" lite ply, with 1/4" piece of lite ply laminated with the same vaneer and a drawer fascia of 1/8" lite ply with about 1/32 laminates on both front and rear of the fascia.

The rear is the same as the sides.

There are 7 drawers. Each 3/4" thick.
The compartments are 25" long and the dividers leave 1" of space between them. My 12" HO scale ruler fits nicely between the separations. The top 5 drawer are all built with the same spacing. The bottom 2 drawers on my cabinets were modified in 1978 so that I could fit 3" wide pieces of scribed sheeting in them. I don't remember
How they were originally constructed. There are notches in one drawer with gargantuan sizes of 12x24, 12x36 and 18x18. The bottom drawer has even larger sizes written, 18x24 and 24x24.

It just came to me that these "lite ply" pieces are probably bass wood, as Frank had an abundance of this around. Hard to tell as all the wood was stained  mahogany color.

Al


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Lugg <luggw1@...>
Date: 3/16/20 10:52 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: HOn3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [HOn3] Remembering Frank Kappler

Good points, Rick.  I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard,
I've never used it.  I figured knobs could be found at the local
hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.

A rabbit for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength
and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel.  I
don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical
clearance between the drawers is a must too.

I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in
the folder.

Thanks for the input.
Bill Lugg


On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, rick@... wrote:
> Bill,
>
> If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them
> in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers.
> What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I
> assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will
> work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the
> drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as
> you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19)  clear, same as you show
> horizontally at the drawer.
>
> I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom
> surfaces of the slides before you install them.
>
> If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead
> of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
>
> Rick
>> One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides.  I'm
>> concerned they are too fragile and would break during use.  It would
>> be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this
>> respect.
>
>
>
>



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