Good points, Rick. I didn't realize Luan was lighter that hardboard, I've never used it. I figured knobs could be found at the local hardware store, but searching their web sites was unproductive.
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A rabbet for the slides would probably be a good idea to add strength and would add some insurance that they're straight and parallel. I don't figure it would have to be too deep either. Adding vertical clearance between the drawers is a must too.
I think I'll update the drawings with these suggestions and put them in the folder.
Thanks for the input.
On 3/16/20 10:57 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you use a hardwood like oak for the slides and pin and glue them in, they should be fine. Not a lot of weight will be in the drawers. What I don't see are any rabbets where the drawer slides go, so I assume you are only planning on surface mounting the slides. This will work ok I think, but make sure you leave 1/16 or so between the drawers (vertically) to allow the drawers to move - that .125 (.13 as you show) will need to go to .1875 (.19) clear, same as you show horizontally at the drawer.
I would do a coat of wax (parafin or whatever) on the top and bottom surfaces of the slides before you install them.
If you want to save some weight, use Luan plywood (doorskin) instead of hardboard. That and suitable knobs are available at HDepot or Lowes.
One thing I'm really not satisfied with are the drawer slides. I'm concerned they are too fragile and would break during use. It would be interesting to know how the original cabinet was designed in this respect.