Re: Advices on pre-weathered rail

Russ Norris
 

Dusty, I just finished building a couple of #6 switches using code 55 rail and Fast Tracks tools and jigs I borrowed from my good friend, Dave Trimble.  I started using Tix flux to solder the rails to the PC ties, but had trouble getting the solder to hold.  I changed to Carr's Orange flux and the difference was immediate.  The switches turned out fine, but I did take away a few tips for good solder joints:

First, use a good thin solder.
Second, use an appropriate flux.
Third, use a HOT soldering iron.
Fourth, when soldering the rail to the PC ties, weight the rail to ensure a tight connection.
Fifth, place the tip of the iron against the web of the rail to put heat as close as possible to the joint.  
And last,  keep pressure on the joint until the solder cools.Fifth

There's  nothing new about all of this.  It's what works for me.


On Fri, Dec 20, 2019, 5:07 PM Dusty <Dustburm@q.com> wrote:
I had a bit of code 55 weathered on hand so I decided to use it to build switches. Clean the bottom real well and solder away. Sounded great. The problem I encountered was conducting the heat from the iron thru the top of the rail base to completely liquefy the solder to get the optimal bond across the base of the rail on top of the ties. That coating kills the heat transfer. I only tried it once so perhaps I screwed up somehow?

Dusty Burman 


--
Russ Norris, MMR
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
http://blacklogvalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/

Join HOn3@groups.io to automatically receive all group messages.