Re: Resistance soldering

Pete C

If you wind up deciding you want a resistance unit, I actually have two, get at least a 200 watt unit.  It will heat joints much more quickly and it will be much more versatile.  
  PBL and American Beauty are a couple of really quality units.  
  I use the probe a lot more often than the tweezers but they do have their uses since you can isolate the heat in specific areas.  
  I also have several solders with different melting points as this allows easier assembly of parts in close proximity.  The use of wet tissue paper placed strategically around the heated area also does a tremendous job of pulling the heat away from areas you want to stay put.
  Also VERY important is to be sure the area to be soldered is CLEAN.  If it’s not you will never get a solid joint even with flux.  I also recommend Tix flux for metal work but since it’s an acid flux DO NOT use it on any electrical work including track work.

Hope this helps a little with your current dilemma. 


On Sep 25, 2019, at 9:46 AM, Robert Bell via Groups.Io <ionhoss@...> wrote:


Get some Tix solder and Tix flux before shelling out $400.  Tix is low melt temp, high strength.

Clean brass parts - a fibreglass brush works great.
Cut a TINY sliver off of Tix solder sitck with a sharp hobby knife. Position parts.
Apply Tix flux.
With the sharp point of hobby knife gently stab the sliver and place next to joint.
Apply heat carefully to melt solder and for it to pull into joint.

You might try a pencil torch available from hobby shops, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc...

I'm not saying don't get a resist unit, I have two, but I rarely use them. 

Rob Bell
Waynesville,  NC

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