Re: KADEE 705 couplers WAS_Any

Dale Buxton

I saw your post and just did a Rail Line car. This is the ticket!!! I think it may be even easier than what you did. I did step 1 and and only part of step 2. At step 2 I cut the side walls off of the Kadee box flush with the inside faces of the walls. I left the rear wall on. This wall is the same height as the pivot post. Now the new coupler box floor will rest on 2 places instead of just 1.  The new floor width is exactly the same width as the Rail Line boxes inside width and no measuring was needed! Pretty nice. Then I followed your steps 3 and 4. I did the same procedure on a Blackstone boxcar. All that I needed to do was to remove the original pivot post on both cars. I kind of mentioned that last week when these first showed up in the Gazette add. And then promptly forgot about it.  Good On You Brother! Nicely done!!!

Now apply one of these to a steam loco pilot.

Dale B 

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 11:50 PM hiroechan <hiroechan@...> wrote:

Alright gents,
I have solved this issue. Here's how you install the new 705 couplers in existing draft gear, without major surgery, and actually have them look right and center properly.

1: cut the old center pin out of the existing box.
2: disassemble the 705, discard the lid, and trim the box into a new lid. Cut off box sides and rear. 
3: use new lid with triangular center pin, together with new coupler, placed in old box on car, to find location for drilling and tapping for new mounting screw. 
4: remove 705 coupler and new lid, drill and tap car box, then reassemble new coupler in old box with new lid, spring, and screw.

See photos for details.

This is a Rail Line boxcar, this technique should work for blackstone cars as well. The centering works, and the coupler head is nice and close to the striker plate like it should be.

--Drew McCann

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 12:48 AM Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:

?I hate to burst Kadee's bubble. While the 705 will indeed go anywhere that a 714 will go. There are two problems. I just spent the last hour or so experimenting with this.

1. As I mentioned before, the little centering spring really needs to be in it's designed slot with about 1/32" of horizontal play. It is all but impossible to get that idy-biddy spring in the back of the coupler shank and behind the pivot post in a Kadee 714 coupler box or 714 clone coupler box ( like the one on a Blackstone car ) . If you by some chance of magic get in it in there. It will be completely compressed and the centering action is lost!

2.  The 705 coupler's shank thickness is only .041". A Kadee 714's shank thickness is .057". The 705's shank is way thinner!  The Kadee 714 coupler boxes inside height at the pivot post is .067". This gives the 705 coupler  .026" of vertical play and no spring torsion pushing against it to hold it on the vertical plane. It sticks out there, drooping down to a 15 to 20 degree angle and flops around unable to mate with any other coupler. This fix of coarse, is to add about .025" of shim washers to the pivot post to get the thing to sit level in the coupler box. More work and expense I didn't want.

And once again the Sergent Sharon type coupler was purpose designed to fit in  the Kadee 714 box and is clones with no vertical play. Yes I am a proponent of Sharon couplers. But, I am also will to try new things. This new coupler design of Kadee's is turning out to be more work that I want to deal with.

Why in the world did they make the 705's shank thickness so much thinner than the 714's??? Why did the make the pivot post such a unique and generally uncombatable design with what is already on the market?

It's both baffling and disappointing for this modeler. 

Dale B 

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