Re: Abteilung weathering.
Mark, Yes, I’m still here. I’m not as active in contributing as before, but there are subjects of interest which catch my eye.toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
To build up gradual weathering, a barrier is needed to seal and protect one weathering stage, from the next. A Barrier’s is applied after each stage of wash.
I use model master paints because they thin with scalecoat, but are not strong enough to attack my barrier. As any paint, they dilute to a fine wash and can be steered to create lines, spots, stains, or build up of grime. Oils work exactly the same. Obviously with oils, the higher quality the paint, the better the wash.
Regarding the lacquer. I believe mine is an acrylic lacquer. At least that’s what the thinner states. However I’m not sure if my clear is acrylic or not. No label on the can.
The best way to find out if it will work is to paint a sheet of brass with a primary paint ( the paint you will use to paint your model). After it’s dry, spray it with the clear you wish to use as a barrier. If the clear does not craze the primary paint (the engine or rolling stock color), proceed to the next step. If it does, you may have to find a stronger primary paint.... more on this later
If your barrier did not craze primary paint; proceed to spraying a dirty wash (diluted earth colors on the test piece). Then apply a wet brush of scale coat and begin to clean off the dirty wash. As you attempt to wash off the spray paint. If the clear begins to lift or craze as you brush the dirty wash, then your clear is not strong enough and must find a substitute.
Even though I use the thinner for washes, Scalecoat is not a good primary paint. In my experience the clear does not adhere to it’s surface, and it just peels away like a decal. PBL is one of my primary colors and so is true color. My clear does not attack/craze the paint.
Hope this helps.
On May 19, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...> wrote: