Re: Abteilung weathering.

jczul36
 

Mark/Dale, Com’n you two!  You know me and even have my email.  I highly respect both of you and you could have contacted me direct.

Dale, I’m not sure what person from the Guild provided you info, but I can assure you no one asked.  When I’m asked, I normally divulge the information.

This “trade secrets” issue begins when I mentioned words like “barrier’s” and “washes”.  Most who never paint, seem to glare as if I were speaking to them in another language. I can assure you, no “trade secrets” here.  I’ve addressed this multiple times, but when I see them glaring, I advise them to read military modelers magazines on weathering so they can understand the lingo and concept.  We hoped the video from brass trains would help, but I guess it wasn’t enough.

As in military weathering, Jerry and I, both use barriers between multiple weathering stages.  Our barrier is the automotive lacquer (The reason for the lacquer base clear, is because it holds up to solvent washes and is not disturbed by the weaker thinner from the wash).  We use it to protect the earlier weathering and produce a gradual buildup.  However the barrier brand is irrelevant.  I use DuPont and Jerry uses PPG.  I will move to a new brand when my DuPont runs out.  

For the wash, We both use scalecoat 1 thinner for thinning oils or enamels.  We both used dio-sol thinner, but when it was no longer commercially available, we moved to scalecoat. Should scalecoat end, we’ll will find a different solvent to supplement it. The key to the solvent wash; it needs to evaporates quickly, not disturb the barrier, and thin our weathering colors.

The big difference between Jerry and I; I use testors enamel paints, and Jerry uses Abteilung oils for weathering colors. I’ve used the oils also, but prefer the enamels because they are available at any local hobby store.  We both used Dio-Sol, but when that ran out we substituted it with scalecoat.

Keep in mind, Any strong barrier and quick evaporating wash will provide the tools needed to weather.  This really is no trade secret, and very popular with the military modeling world.  Hope this helps.

Warm Regards,

jc





On May 18, 2019, at 3:29 AM, Dale Buxton <dbtuathaddana@...> wrote:

Mark,

Yes, I was told by JC that Jerry is using Scalecoat 1. It is produced by Minute Man Hobbies now. 

Ahhhh so! Celulose Thinners. Now this is starting to make sense to me. MIG products sells two thinners in the celulose formulation. "Regular Celulose" and "Very Hot Thinner". In the USA Hot, Very Hot and Extremely Hot were/are terms to describe the evaporation or drying time of automotive lacquer thinners.

So, I have a friend in CA. that is a member of the Slim Gauge Guild and he knows JC (rather reluctantly I might add). He has asked JC for me about the details of Jerry's weathering process (types of lacquers and thinners etc.). But, JC would not commit to specifics. Like it's some sort of trade secret or something. The Brass Trains video was lacking in these specific details too. This is very strange for a how-to vid if you ask me. Anyway, I commented to the YouTube video on the process that it did not explain what clear lacquer and thinner Jerry was using. JC responded with any brand of Automotive clear lacquer. But they were using Dupont's brand. I told him I knew what is was and that I also knew that it was not made in the US anymore. Then he responded with back with Scalecoat 1 Clear. To be honest I'm have no Idea if that is true or not. 

I have about a quarter pint of Automotive Lacquer Clear left from my custom painting days many years ago. I'll need to find a new source for it for this weathering process if I end up liking it. I hava a gallon or two of the thinners left. I've always liked how this clear goes on with an airbrush. It sets down very smooth when it dries. I recently got some of PBL's Star Brand clear lacquer. So I'm going to give that a whirl with this process first.

About your thinners for the Abteilung Oils. Like I said  before, the Abteilung thinner is a odorless turpinoid thinner.  Go to the art store and get some Winsore/Newton Sansodor thinner. It comes in up to 2.5 L tins. I can get  odorless turpinoid at my local art supply. But, Home Depot has the same product for a better price.


Dale 

On Sat, May 18, 2019 at 12:15 AM Mark Kasprowicz <marowicz@...> wrote:
Dale,

Thanks for the reply. The problem I have is figuring what 'Scalecoat 1' is - that's the stuff Jerry was using. I've started using the wash/ clear laquer method but using acrylics like the cheap ones from Walmart though a few dealers in this country chrage about $9.00 for a 99 cent pot! I might bring some back with me to sell on Ebay. I'm in the process of converting a couple of Downtown Deco hydrocal two engine shed into the Rico engine house ie shortening the distance between the piers from three to two windows and so on and the Acrylic/ laquer technique is just perfact but I've not tried oils.

I don't have a problem with laquer thinner which is called celulose thinners here. They send it by courier and I have a gallon of it in the garage. I also use it for paint stripping and it's available in my local True Value in Hermosa as well. So no problem there. My thoughts about thinners has gone onto Ronsonol or lighter fluid and I might give that a try.

Yes you're right a lot of those paint products come from Spain. I placed an order with Abteilung on Thursday including their fast drying thinners. It will be here on Monday. As Jerry said in the video it comes in quite a small bottle so the plan is to find something similar that can be bought more economically.

Military modeling mags are the only mags I get these days except for the Gazette and Narrow Gauge World. The processes and finishes those guys come up with are extraordinary. For anyone reading this that hasn't had a look at the internet or magazines, take a gander and don't worry about what they're making but how they're making it. You might be pleasantly surprised!

Mark K
Oxon, England

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