Re: Westside K-36 #482 Motor?


These motors are very capable and just fine for these engines.  Blackstone uses smaller motors on their K class.  
The only issue I’ve run into with these, is a  squealing motor.  Most modelers assume these don’t need lubrication, but they do.  However you do not use oil on the rear section.  You peel the tape (where the wires are), and spray it with electronic cleaner and lubricant.  This cleans and lubricates the front bearings.  You can use light oil on the front section of the motor (output shaft section).

On Oct 17, 2018, at 4:30 PM, roundbell via Groups.Io <roundbell@...> wrote:

If the motor is about the diameter of your index finger in a much larger brass collar on the front half of the motor, THAT is the Namiki motor. It is a great motor for a C-16 or Key HOn3 2-8-0 if does not have the lubricant turned to was, but too weak for a big K.
      The cab roof was usually a problem. A brace on the bottom of the roof fitted up against the the cab front and a spring tab on the bottom of the roof pressed against the inside back of the cab. Most of these tabs broke the solder joint (that is the solder on the roof). soon. I always resolder this tab before painting, use a small router to cut a little grove in front of the roof bracket at the top and solder a little piece of wire to the cab front at the top edge to keep the cab front down when the rear tab pushes the roof forward.   It keeps the roof on.    LocoDoc

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Betz <jimbetz@...>
To: HOn3 <>
Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 11:53 am
Subject: [HOn3] Westside K-36 #482 Motor?

  I opened up a Westside K-36 today in order to lube it (probably didn't need to)
The attached picture is of the motor and running gear.  There are zero markings
on this motor - it is just black.  Is this probably the not so desirable Namiki (?)
motor (i.e. the original)?  The model is nicely painted but does not appear to
have -ever- been run other than just to demo it for a few minutes.

  I am not looking forward to tearing it down again.  I have it back together
but it took about 45 minutes of fiddling to get all the various 'parts' back to
where they should be ... piston rods, crosshead slides, valve rod, the 3
'braces' for the plow, and finally the pilot truck ... and then I had to figure
out how to bet the gear cover back on the bottom of the gear box
(removed to inspect and lube gear box).

  The cab roof is 'loose' - as in it can be moved and 'repositioned' (without
actually removing it.  There is one screw that seems to be there to hold it
in place ... but it doesn't.  Any hints on that?
                                                                                                        - Jim B.

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