[HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers


Kenneth Rickman
 

Rob,

Which Bachmann 0-6-0 are you referring to? There are at least three that I am aware of - a copy of the AHM model, with ~45" drivers, a USRA 0-6-0 with the typical split axles and frame, and a Spectrum 0-6-0T. I have examples of the first two, but not the Spectrum version, and I'll be glad to help in whatever way I can.

If the valve gear is riveted, you have three options. Leave it as is, drill out the rivets and replace them, or replace the entire valve gear assembly. None of my models have valve gear on them, but I know that some versions did.

Ken Rickman

On 1/25/2013 1:46 AM, robert_kirkham wrote:
Hi there - I normally lurk here, but am getting into a project involving 52" drivers and need some help. Hopefully someone on the list has worked with the Bachman 0-6-0 and taken apart the drivers/axles. I obtained a junk Bachman drive gear and if the drivers are easy enough to use, may obtain another junk model (I'm modelling an 0-8-0). But when I look at the drivers on the model, it lookslike the valve gear is all revited - no obvious screws or nuts. So - does anyone have experience taking these apart and have any advice on how I should go at it?
--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert


Robert kirkham
 

well, I guess one problem with taking on someone else's junk is it isn't clear what loco it is. It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter. I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0. And so I guess it is drilling out the rivets. Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.

Rob


From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 5:52 AM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers



Rob,

Which Bachmann 0-6-0 are you referring to? There are at least three
that I am aware of - a copy of the AHM model, with ~45" drivers, a USRA
0-6-0 with the typical split axles and frame, and a Spectrum 0-6-0T. I
have examples of the first two, but not the Spectrum version, and I'll
be glad to help in whatever way I can.

If the valve gear is riveted, you have three options. Leave it as is,
drill out the rivets and replace them, or replace the entire valve gear
assembly. None of my models have valve gear on them, but I know that
some versions did.

Ken Rickman

On 1/25/2013 1:46 AM, robert_kirkham wrote:
Hi there - I normally lurk here, but am getting into a project involving 52" drivers and need some help. Hopefully someone on the list has worked with the Bachman 0-6-0 and taken apart the drivers/axles. I obtained a junk Bachman drive gear and if the drivers are easy enough to use, may obtain another junk model (I'm modelling an 0-8-0). But when I look at the drivers on the model, it lookslike the valve gear is all revited - no obvious screws or nuts. So - does anyone have experience taking these apart and have any advice on how I should go at it?
--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert


Kenneth Rickman
 

On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even driver spacing? What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old ones had pancake motors, the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic spacer. The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert


Robert kirkham
 

Answers inserted below:

Thanks for your help, - not what I wanted to learn, but far better to do so and not waste further time on a dead end!

Rob


From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 1:58 PM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers



On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It
sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even
driver spacing?

[rk: yes - even driver spacing]

What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old
ones had pancake motors,

[rk: yes - pancake motor]

the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors
and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to
remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you
pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be
a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a
Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and
main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty
nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the
one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic
spacer.

[RK: yes - so I find. A surprise! I can't see making my project work with these drivers. ]

The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited
to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split
frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming
apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also
prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in
holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want
on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert


Dave's Gmail
 

Hi Rob, have you considered using a proto 2000 USRA 0-8-0 mechanism for your project? I have scratch-built boilers and used their 0-6-0 mechanisms. They run flawlessly.
Dave Wilson.
Sent from Dave's Formerly Red iPhone

On Jan 25, 2013, at 11:57 PM, "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@live.ca> wrote:

Answers inserted below:

Thanks for your help, - not what I wanted to learn, but far better to do so and not waste further time on a dead end!

Rob

From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 1:58 PM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers

On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It
sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even
driver spacing?

[rk: yes - even driver spacing]

What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old
ones had pancake motors,

[rk: yes - pancake motor]

the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors
and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to
remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you
pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be
a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a
Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and
main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty
nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the
one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic
spacer.

[RK: yes - so I find. A surprise! I can't see making my project work with these drivers. ]

The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited
to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split
frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming
apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also
prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in
holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want
on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Dave's Gmail
 

Here is the brass part of greenway's website:

http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/index.html

Dave Wilson

Sent from Dave's Formerly Red iPhone

On Jan 25, 2013, at 11:57 PM, "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@live.ca> wrote:

Answers inserted below:

Thanks for your help, - not what I wanted to learn, but far better to do so and not waste further time on a dead end!

Rob

From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 1:58 PM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers

On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It
sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even
driver spacing?

[rk: yes - even driver spacing]

What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old
ones had pancake motors,

[rk: yes - pancake motor]

the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors
and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to
remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you
pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be
a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a
Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and
main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty
nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the
one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic
spacer.

[RK: yes - so I find. A surprise! I can't see making my project work with these drivers. ]

The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited
to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split
frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming
apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also
prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in
holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want
on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Robert kirkham
 

I'd missed Greenways in my searches - just purchased 8 PFM bearings. Thanks for the pointer Dave - that helps a lot.

Oh, and by the way, the model I am doing is a V4a switcher operated by the CPR, #6940. Its 52 inch drivers were spaced 5' 2", 5' 2", & 5' 6", which is different enough from the P2K model that I felt I had to go the scratch built route. (I've spent a lot of time looking at other models I could convert without finding something close enough for what I wanted to accomplish).

Rob Kirkham


From: Dave's Gmail
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:01 AM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers



Here is the brass part of greenway's website:

http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/index.html

Dave Wilson

Sent from Dave's Formerly Red iPhone

On Jan 25, 2013, at 11:57 PM, "Rob Kirkham" rdkirkham@live.ca> wrote:

Answers inserted below:

Thanks for your help, - not what I wanted to learn, but far better to do so and not waste further time on a dead end!

Rob

From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 1:58 PM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers

On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It
sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even
driver spacing?

[rk: yes - even driver spacing]

What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old
ones had pancake motors,

[rk: yes - pancake motor]

the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors
and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to
remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you
pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be
a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a
Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and
main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty
nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the
one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic
spacer.

[RK: yes - so I find. A surprise! I can't see making my project work with these drivers. ]

The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited
to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split
frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming
apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also
prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in
holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want
on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Dave's Gmail
 

Very cool Rob! I just looked up a photo of one. That should be a very neat project!! Post photos of your progress if you can!

Dave Wilson

Sent from Dave's Formerly Red iPhone

On Jan 26, 2013, at 11:56 AM, "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@live.ca> wrote:

I'd missed Greenways in my searches - just purchased 8 PFM bearings. Thanks for the pointer Dave - that helps a lot.

Oh, and by the way, the model I am doing is a V4a switcher operated by the CPR, #6940. Its 52 inch drivers were spaced 5' 2", 5' 2", & 5' 6", which is different enough from the P2K model that I felt I had to go the scratch built route. (I've spent a lot of time looking at other models I could convert without finding something close enough for what I wanted to accomplish).

Rob Kirkham

From: Dave's Gmail
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:01 AM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers

Here is the brass part of greenway's website:

http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/index.html

Dave Wilson

Sent from Dave's Formerly Red iPhone

On Jan 25, 2013, at 11:57 PM, "Rob Kirkham" rdkirkham@live.ca> wrote:

Answers inserted below:

Thanks for your help, - not what I wanted to learn, but far better to do so and not waste further time on a dead end!

Rob

From: Kenneth Rickman
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 1:58 PM
To: HOsteam@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Bachman 0-6-0 drivers

On 1/25/2013 9:59 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:
It has the Bachman name on the cover plate on the bottom of the frame. Certainly not Spectrum quality. But I'd say it is the USRA 0-6-0 AHM copy. The drivers are about 51 or 52 inch diameter.
It's not the AHM copy, since those drivers are considerably smaller. It
sounds to me like you have the split frame USRA 0-6-0. Does it have even
driver spacing?

[rk: yes - even driver spacing]

What kind of motor? I've seen two versions - the old
ones had pancake motors,

[rk: yes - pancake motor]

the newer ones had some pretty nice can motors
and really aren't bad models over all.

I won't be trying to save the valve gear as I'm doing an 0=8=0.
If you don't want to save the valve gear, it should be easy enough to
remove. I believe the eccentric crank should come off as soon as you
pull the crank pin out. The combination lever on the crosshead might be
a little more of a challenge, and I might try using a cuttoff wheel in a
Dremel tool to avoid removing the rivet which connects the crosshead and
main rod.

Fact is I don't have to use these drivers - but since they are here, was looking into how one might go at it.
If it's the model I'm thinking of, those drivers actually look pretty
nice. Two things to think about. The drivers (again, assuming it's the
one I'm thinking of) are cast with integral stub axles and use a plastic
spacer.

[RK: yes - so I find. A surprise! I can't see making my project work with these drivers. ]

The axle is larger than normal, so you're pretty much limited
to using the gear that comes with the model. They will require a split
frame or insulated bearings, and they have a reputation for coming
apart. Gluing them together will prevent the failure, but it also
prevents you from removing them from a frame if they're inserted in
holes or bearings. Make sure you put whatever bearings, etc. you want
on them before gluing.

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
Reality has a well known liberal bias - Stephen Colbert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]