[HOsteam] Bowser kits


mike rosz
 

I heard they were pretty good years back but just could not come up with that much cash at one time.
I did bu a Round house kit but it is still in the box.
Reinhard Peters <reinhard@rub-peters.de> wrote:
I wonder if the Bowser steam engine kits have good quality.

The 0-6-0 seams to have an up to date motor but the motor of the 2-8-0
looks some what outdated.

I would be glad to get some opinions.

Thank you
Reinhard






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mwbauers
 

They sell updated motors with an integrated pinion gear for the kits from a third party, and on the Bowser site.

I'm not sure what motors are in the kits. But the kits seem to be darned good to begin with and if you have to replace the motor for a modern can.

Well, that still might be ok.

Best to ya'
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee Wi, USA

On Jun 16, 2007, at 4:23 PM, mike rosz wrote:

I heard they were pretty good years back but just could not come up with that much cash at one time.
I did bu a Round house kit but it is still in the box.
Reinhard Peters <reinhard@rub-peters.de> wrote:
I wonder if the Bowser steam engine kits have good quality.

The 0-6-0 seams to have an up to date motor but the motor of the 2-8-0
looks some what outdated.

I would be glad to get some opinions.


Wayne Long
 

Reinhard,

I have built a Bowser light Pacific kit and a 4-8-2 mechanism. While this does not make me an expert on Bowser steam, I feel I should make a few comments.

First, as has been said, the technology is old. However, the mechanisms are substantial. It is unfortunate to me that the drivers are not sprung. If you follow carefully the instructions and have no bind in the mechanism, these locomotives are good pullers. I have installed one of the third party motor assemblies and it is an improvement over the earlier open motor and gearing.

Second, the boiler/cab castings leave a good deal to be desired. They are castings that are too rough in places. At least Bowser pre-drills the holes for the detail parts. Every one of their locomotive boilers needs to be detailed, and this is done with detail kits from Bowser containing many brass lost wax castings. You can end up with a credible looking steam locomotive even though it might not confirm to prototype drawings.

Third, the tenders, like the boilers are cast zamac and the detail is not up to plastic level. The tender trucks are cast metal with brass wheels. Electrical pick-up is through one side of the tender trucks and the opposite side drivers. This has presented problems on DC track going from block to block. It is a big problem to solve if you want pick-up from all of the drivers, like on plastic steam. For DCC, you would have to isolate the motor from the frame, requiring a jumper wire from the frame to one of the motor brushes.

Wayne Long


David Boyd
 

I have built a couple of "old lady', "casey jones" models, and found there
drivers much to rigid, as suggested a sprung system would be better. I have
built the 'Challenger' model and have had much better performance as It has made
appearances for the last ten years on our clubs modular layout. I do like to
use an inexpensive can motor on my models that tops out the RPM so I get a
better scale speed control. Good luck and have fun! David



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