Rick C Shoup wrote: Good advice, but I have to question the offered opinion about not taking apart the lokies. In my experience, everything that was built, is designed to be assembled from separate pa

Rick C Shoup wrote: Sounds like you had it licked at that point. I tend to recall a line from 'Moon Trap' at times like this. "We don't take no shit from a machine!" 8^_) Yup, always a winner to have

Rick C Shoup wrote: The only wiring diagrams I have seen, show a junction box under the rear of the cab roof and a junction box on the upper corner, or at least edge, of the tender front, with a very

brasshat99 wrote: This tactic has allowed Walthers to nearly quadruple their prices over the very few last years as they eliminated their USA produced kits and converted their production to ready-buil

mike wrote: Here........ http://www.mdcroundhouse.com/drawings/holine/1476.gif

mike wrote: I think they look like this 'G' scale one....... http://www.mdcroundhouse.com/acatalog/4171.gif I made a quick and dirty clipped version of the first MDC hopper image to show what it would

cripete wrote: I have in my hands a 5 oz. tube of what seems to be exactly what Walthers puts in their smaller tubes.......In an 'industrial only package' of 3M's number 847, Rubber and Gasket Adhesiv

Tom Knowles wrote: Know of a good way to ship them? I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while ago. If yo

Nelson Kennedy wrote: I did my first AHM conversion in this fashion. Lots of filings to get into the wrong places and the size of the flange is difficult to control to be uniform. I moved to a Sherlin

Brian McKenzie wrote: I see I should post a close-up pic of an AHM wheel set nested in a three jaw mill chuck. It's a very small amount of material in the cross section that gets removed. There are pr

Brian McKenzie wrote: Much like that.... I'll get the pics together. Yes, but we are usually dealing with brass and it's alloys on our models, and only trimming the oversized, but still tiny flange, i

f-v-h@... wrote: That would be the guy that hooked it up to a network with a contemporary home computer and copied the files to an archival quality cd-r....... and those to a new dvd-r/ram burne

Rob Kirkham wrote: It could be much faster to just go and make them. I can upload classic d-i-y diagrams from model steam engine scratch building books if you would like the info. --- Regards, Mike Ba

Victor Bitleris wrote: What about using the available drivers with the smallest crescent weights, and overlaying them with larger square counterweights? You may have to use two layers of overlay to re

Chris Webster wrote: I looked........... ARGGGgggg....... MY EYES !!!!!!!!!!!

I found this in a 1950 MR or there abouts. It's the only model I've seen of a university study for a Nuclear Locomotive......... article scans at ..... http://my.execpc.com/~mwbauers/Temp/NukP1.gif ht

Forgot one little link...... http://my.execpc.com/~mwbauers/Temp/NukLocMod.jpg Mike Bauers wrote:

Pete Brown wrote: My reflections on the model made me conclude that building a mech around the HobbyTown drive trucks would be the way to go. It gives you a very low drive shaft for the geared trucks.

Pete Brown wrote: I have to look at other than $90 power trucks for this unit. There are other self-powered trucks that are much less expensive........ I've been in the hobby for quite a while now and

Bruce Brantner wrote: It's the generator that makes it seem to be difficult....... I like the 10,000 sounds on cd that are available. You can take the sounds you like and put them into something porta