Okay folks, Let's see if I can get something started. Many years ago, I had (key word "had") a model of Southern Pacific 4-8-4. If I remember correctly, it was a Westside brass and they listed it

Don, and for the information of other list members, you should click on the unsubscribe URL in the message header to effect an automated unsubscription. But hey, guys, don't all leave. Post

John Gardener, who makes kits for steam locos in Sn3�, has listed his kits at: http://www.homestead.com/jg_models/files/index.htm Nelson Kennedy Christchurch, New Zealand Ferrymead Trams, NZR 0

Hello all, a friend of mine had a major problem with his Roco 01 pacific steam engine. The trace under the running board was cooked, melting the running board in the process. Last year he ordered a

Hi All, I noticed on a recent dealer's listing that Kato is producing a DRGW 2-6-0 mogul. It did not state the scale however. Will this be HO scale? Thanks! Thomas Beutel San Francisco

Jack, Marshall, Thanks for the timing info. I don't have a sound source, other than what I've heard on the Pentrex videos. I was thinking of synthesizing it on a computer and then recording it. I

Thomas Beutel wrote: Air pumps operated on a pressure demand system. When the main reservoirs dropped below a level which could maintain trainline pressure, the pumps would start. Therefore, your

Hi All, I want to include those distinctive air pump sounds that a Cab Forward produces into an HO Rivarossi Cab Forward, and I was thinking of using one of those digital sound chips from Radio

Yea, I meant to say that I've heard of OTHER folks ALSO using the HOn3 for scale appearane. I've never tried them - I started using the standard Kadee (#5 mostly) many years ago and I'd have to take

Elden Baker wrote: As I understand it, Elden, the 714 *is* the HOn3 coupler, with longer trip pins (no other changes). Your biggest problem (and the reason it was marketed as an 'old-timer') is the

The Kadee #711 IS thier HOn3 coupeler, but with a different trip-pin. Another alternative is a dummy. There are a couple of nice ones available, and you'll save a TON on magnets. I think most of us

--- Ashley Rachel Pollard <Ashley@...> wrote: No doubt about it, the standard Kadees are too large for scale appearance. I've have not used the #711 couplers but, I do know that

I've been informed that the standard Kadees are too large, but that the old time #711 are closer to scale. So I bought a packet to try them out. Umhh... has anyone got any hints. What do they mean

Another thing to consider is this: before the gear box is installed, make sure that the loco frame and drivers, with rods and valve gear installed, are free rolling, and does not bind. A good test is

Thomas Beutel wrote: Personally I have used only the NWSL 0 scale gearboxes - and they are wonderful. I have a friend who is a custom builder and he uses the NWSL H0 gearboxes. He finds them great.

Hello from New Zealand, Home of the Americas Cup. Ken Clarke, Thomas Beutel and others have made some great points regarding fine tuning and repowering of locomotives. I model NZ Railways in Sn

Tom: I have not re-motored a steam engine yet. However, I know a man who earns a tidy profit working on re-motoring brass engines. He suggested using a few different gear boxes from NWSL and

Thomas, Thanks for opening the Memorial Weekend Can-of-Worms. I'm sure you will get a variety of answers on the subject. Many different approaches appear to work equally well; success depends

Ok, here's another topic for discussion. What are your experiences in remotoring/regearing/tuning HO steam engines, either plastic or brass. I've found that brass models in particular need a lot of

Are the tanks dry? Or are we just dead on the law?