Ken, The method I use is to place a small circular piece of plastic photographic color filter material in front of the LED. The filter is an orange color, and the result is very close to normal

producers are models, I wish.....The 4-6-0 is the latest offering and it is a giant step backward from the Shay or 0-6-0 saddletank. Hence my great angst. Ken Olson

Absolutely! And for that reason I killed the original post as soon as I saw it to avoid any ongoing angst - but not before someone else saw it and requoted it! Let's leave it to Roman legend,

Brian McKenzie wrote: Much like that.... I'll get the pics together. Yes, but we are usually dealing with brass and it's alloys on our models, and only trimming the oversized, but still tiny flange,

mike wrote: But most of all, carry it somewhere else :-). This story is an everblooming perennial that appears at least twice a yaear on any and all RR related groups :-). -- To announce that there

Mike Bauers wrote: Yes please. I can't quite picture what you are suggesting - unless it is merely gripping one wheel by its tread, with its flange and the opposing wheel protruding. Yes, and I

"ken_olson54022" commented.... The Chinese factory that manufactures the Lenz 0-6-0 diesel shunter/switcher is using an improved version that has a different coating. A bluish fringe is still

My low boilered 10 wheeler came with a bluish white LED for a headlight that more resembles a deathray from a low budget sci-fi movie than anything else. Has anyone else out there dealt with this

Brian McKenzie wrote: I see I should post a close-up pic of an AHM wheel set nested in a three jaw mill chuck. It's a very small amount of material in the cross section that gets removed. There are

Guys, Reducing Rivarossi wheel flanges is fraught with danger and some of the ideas advanced will certainly lead to their destruction - as it did for me in my early hobby days. Unless individual

Bob, This is an excellent idea. Thanks, Tom Knowles

Hi Everyone, Having sat here watching all the talk about turning Rivarossi wheels I have come to a conclusion. That is there is no way I can do this myself...lol...I have neither the tools or the

Hi, Mike: What kind of "slow speed" attachment are you talking about? What books are you referring to? I assume HO Scale? I bought a Sherline mill and lathe a couple of years ago with the express

The nasty problem is that all but the tire is plastic which will deform with heat or under pressure. Additionally the center is cast into the tire and if the rim is forced off the wheel You'll never

Nelson Kennedy wrote: I did my first AHM conversion in this fashion. Lots of filings to get into the wrong places and the size of the flange is difficult to control to be uniform. I moved to a

Hi guys, The turning down of Rivarossi flanges requires considerable care. The spokes for the most part are fine and will not stand up to too much pressure. They have been known to be torn from the

Keeping in mind that I have never actually turned down flanges in HO scale, I've wondered if the following might also work? Instead of using the model motor and siderods to do the turning, remove

Bob, So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a while for me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures I learned "way back when", when useful. The problem

Mike, That's the best offer I've had all week! Sure, I could figure a way to get 'em to you, getting the time to disassemble both is the problem right now... maybe an a week or so? Are you sure this

I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that could be found today on the MR index of modeling articles. One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat