Date   
Testing that New Brass Steam engine

Ken Clark
 

All,
  Yesterday I published a new page listing procedures for testing that new brass locomotive you just got.
After 24 hours of thought and feedback I added another section and additional diagnosis procedures.
Changes are in red.  The intent of this webpage is to locate problems, but in a few cases I also included 
some possible simple fixes.

  These lists have experienced modelers that have fixed these problems in the past.
The bigger problem in tapping into this experience is fully identifying the problem(s) so that the 
discussions are productive.  Hopefully this webpage will help identify problem(s) and get those
engines quickly returned to service.

  While I have given clinics at NMRA conventions on repowering these models, I never focused
primarily on the troubleshooting that is key to repairing these models and getting them running.
Hopefully this new page fills some of that void.

http://www.shastasprings.com/repower/TestingBrassSteam2.htm




Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

Testing new brass steam

Ken Clark
 

All,
  Today I composed a webpage listing the steps to take when testing that new locomotive you just got on eBay.
To make it simpler I did not include testing DCC or sound components.  
As a result there are only 33 steps, or bullets, to consider.

Hopefully this will help you figure out why that new engine doesn't run as well as it looked.
Testing the model is recommended before starting a repowering or redetailing project or painting.
Eventually I will add photos, but I wanted to share the thoughts first.
Yes I could have created a shorter file name; when this file is linked to my homepage the name will be shorter8-) 

http://www.shastasprings.com/repower/Testing%20that%20Brass%20Steam%20Engine%20You%20Bought%20on%20eBay.htm

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

Worst HO Steam model you have owned.

Ken Clark
 

I'm sure all of us have their favorite, "worst HO Steam" model; so I decided to limit my choice to brass models. 
In making my choice I first considered market place value. Is a slightly more accurate model that sells for three times the price the better model? My value analysis would be NO. Is a more highly detailed model a better value than a model that runs better? Again NO for me. Is a more highly detailed model with the wrong details (e.g Skyline Pox) a better model? Again for me, NO. How about a nicely made model built to the wrong scale? even if it's the only game in town? You probably have guessed my analysis would again be NO. And finally can a model that runs poorly with poor workmanship that defies improvement be ever considered a better model? Uh, NO. 


It should be obvious that my personal bias would never allow me to label a KTM model from the 70's selling for $300 on eBay as worse or with a lower value per dollar than current state of the art models selling for $2,000. Still with the five criteria I listed; I can't think of a single model that would be the worst in all five criteria listed again below: 
Value per dollar 
Operation at the expense of Detailing 
Erroneous Detailing (Skyline Pox for me) 
Out of Scale model (PSC SP Dynamometer Car) 
Poor Workmanship 

I must ad that I have been able to repair or improve numerous "poor" models into excellent operators.  In selecting my worst HO Steam loco I added a final criteria "DEFIES IMPROVEMENT"  

That leaves just two Candidates.


The NKP Southern Pacific MM-3 2-6-6-2 
I reserved this model when it was announced, paid full list as most dealers did not sell it. And had my choice from six models which I inspected and tested and selected the best. It was highly detailed, but operation was unreliable (continually broke down). I rebuilt it mechanically at least three times, but the running gear was wearing out after only a few hours or operation. Parts continually fell off, before and after painting. I gave up as it couldn't meet my operational needs at the time and sold it for less than I had invested. It was nicely painted with directional lights, heavily weighted, with a large can motor and flywheel. I felt lucky to get my original $500 investment back. 


The KEY Rio Grande L-96 2-8-8-2s first run. 

 This is a mistake I made twice.  I bought the engines aftemarket, so I couldn't choose from dealer stock.  I attributed the first engines numerous defects to the previous owner who had applied a poor paint job.  The second model was unpainted and the defects were exposed completely.  Like many early Korean models poor solder joints were everywhere on a highly detailed model.  The mechanism was even worse, rods and linkage was made from butter soft metal that easily distorted and wore through.  Holes for side rod screws were so far off center that the rod material did not completely surround the screws.  Both engines never ran as well as the MM-3



My WORST HO STEAM ENGINE?    has to be the one I bought twice!


The KEY Rio Grande L-96 2-8-8-2 first run


FW:Important Info

David Boyd
 

hey Losing weight has been hard for me until I started taking this! http://3dmiasto.com/fys/

Read this

David Boyd
 

Re: [HOsteam] FS Used Atlas HO Code 100 Flex Track

Mike Rosz
 

Re: [HOsteam] Was the First Train you bought HO?

morey200152
 

I had a Lionel set, gotten as a Xmas present when I was 8 (an uncatalogued Sears set with a 614 Alaska switcher with 'cold war' Pyro trucks on flats and a missle launcher and exploding box car and a generic LIonel lines caboose), but several years later I decided to make the move to HO and plotted my course of action.  I saved some money, ten dollars maybe??  (took some doing and a bit of time with needing fixes of candy and comics and MR magazines)  and finally ordered some bits from AHC in NYC from one of their monthly ads in MR.....a $3.99 Athearn HiFi diesel (I picked ATSF passenger warbonnet) think other choices were Pennsy or CBQ?  and several $ .99 freight cars, you could only pick car type, think ended up with Varney EJE gondola, Varney OB box car, an Athearn 40' flat, and a Marx NYC work caboose (a bit disappointed with that one)and maybe one or two more for my ten dollar or so investment ....however it took several months to get one of my older sisters to take me into the 'city' to a hobby shop to buy a box of 18" radius snap track and a MRC power pack, and then getting my dad to make an under the bed train table....

been in business ever since, one way or another

 

Chris Morey

Re: [HOsteam] Was the First Train you bought HO?

George William \(Bill\) Newport <gwnewport2@...>
 

whew,
first train,
027 Lionel three rail,
lay a piece of plywood across the rafters in the attic,
put down track,
add switches,
inner and outer loop,
two steam locomotives,
one die-sel electric,
a couple dozen cars,
caboose has inside light,
more plywood,
more track,
bigger train transformer,
the street lights will dim when I move both reostat controls open,
bank the curves,
just call me Mister Casey sir
G

Life consists of:
What you want.
What you need.
What you deserve.
What you end up with.
What you do with what you get.
In Ghod We Trust.


On Friday, December 27, 2013 6:17 PM, Kenneth Rickman wrote:


The first train items I bought with my own money were cars and track for my Lionel O27 set.  I would collect cans along the road and turn them in to earn money to buy an Amtrak ticket from Picayune, MS to Laurel, MS, where we would walk to a hobby shop in town, shop and drool, and eventually catch the train back home.  Some years later I purchased my first HO train set, an IHC set with an SD40 and a few cars, while visiting my grandmother in Joplin, MO.  After that, I would take the train to Laurel to buy HO scale stuff, though I have to say it never had the same magic the O27 stuff did.  Over the years, I discovered different scales and especially narrow gauge, but I'm still primarily modeling standard gauge HO.

Ken Rickman

On 12/27/2013 2:54 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:
But when you brought your hard saved money to the hobby shop to BUY your first train, was it HO?
--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC

One thing about trains: It doesn't matter where they're going.  What matters is deciding to get on.



Re: [HOsteam] Was the First Train you bought HO?

Kenneth Rickman
 

The first train items I bought with my own money were cars and track for my Lionel O27 set.  I would collect cans along the road and turn them in to earn money to buy an Amtrak ticket from Picayune, MS to Laurel, MS, where we would walk to a hobby shop in town, shop and drool, and eventually catch the train back home.  Some years later I purchased my first HO train set, an IHC set with an SD40 and a few cars, while visiting my grandmother in Joplin, MO.  After that, I would take the train to Laurel to buy HO scale stuff, though I have to say it never had the same magic the O27 stuff did.  Over the years, I discovered different scales and especially narrow gauge, but I'm still primarily modeling standard gauge HO.

Ken Rickman

On 12/27/2013 2:54 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:
But when you brought your hard saved money to the hobby shop to BUY your first train, was it HO?
-- 
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC

One thing about trains: It doesn't matter where they're going.  What matters is deciding to get on.



This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.


Re: [HOsteam] Was the First Train you bought HO?

mike rosz
 

mine was too  the pensy freight.


On Friday, December 27, 2013 1:54 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:
 
Several of us have indicated we received Christmas trains that jumped started the hobby; in my case that train was American Flyer.

But when you brought your hard saved money to the hobby shop to BUY your first train, was it HO?

I remember saving my meager allowance to buy Athearn metal cars in HO.  It took a few years but eventually I bought a Mantua
2-8-2 kit that I carefully assembled (it still runs).  Before then I operated a couple of old Varney switchers that my dad had 
acquired second hand and lettered for his RR, The North Central.  I also received a Gilbert Hudson for Christmas about that time,
and then a Globe gear drive ATSF F-7, which ended my HO locomotive purchases for several years.  AS a teenager I discovered
narrow gauge and acquired a couple of small Kidder HOn3 locos.  In college I acquired my first  'quality' HO brass engine, a 
WSM Heisler # 3 with HO and HOn3 trucks.  Now I find myself buying 'experienced' locomotives that I couldn't afford back then;
still that brass display case at Franciscan Hobbies should have my nose print etched in the glass....                                

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921



Was the First Train you bought HO?

Ken Clark
 

Several of us have indicated we received Christmas trains that jumped started the hobby; in my case that train was American Flyer.

But when you brought your hard saved money to the hobby shop to BUY your first train, was it HO?

I remember saving my meager allowance to buy Athearn metal cars in HO.  It took a few years but eventually I bought a Mantua
2-8-2 kit that I carefully assembled (it still runs).  Before then I operated a couple of old Varney switchers that my dad had 
acquired second hand and lettered for his RR, The North Central.  I also received a Gilbert Hudson for Christmas about that time,
and then a Globe gear drive ATSF F-7, which ended my HO locomotive purchases for several years.  AS a teenager I discovered
narrow gauge and acquired a couple of small Kidder HOn3 locos.  In college I acquired my first  'quality' HO brass engine, a 
WSM Heisler # 3 with HO and HOn3 trucks.  Now I find myself buying 'experienced' locomotives that I couldn't afford back then;
still that brass display case at Franciscan Hobbies should have my nose print etched in the glass....                                

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

OT: Merry Christmas and a New Year's Resolution

Ken Clark
 

All,
  60 years ago I woke on Christmas morning to see a train chuffing around our family Christmas tree. 
60 years later I still enjoy the sound, sight and smell of that old American Flyer train. My father's father
was an Espee engineer on the Shasta Division.  Real trains up there did not have a rail down the middle
and my first train wouldn't either.  Looking back, American Flyer was an easy choice over Lionel.

  Since then I've acquired more Flyer and Flyer compatible equipment and switched to more realistic
Showcase Lines track.  This year I didn't set-up a tree, but I did setup the track underneath it.  I still have
that first engine  AF 302 a die cast 4-4-2 locomotive with smoke and chuff; it still runs well.  This week I've been
running those 50 and 60 year old locos; savoring the sights and sounds and smells, that DCC and the techno geeks
still haven't captured.  And yes running those trains brings back the memories of so many Christmas days
over six decades.  May everyone have as rich a Christmas memory as those old trains still bring me.

  And the New year's resolution?  Well that first Flyer engine had a coal burner.  At the time it didn't matter to me;
but now I want a Flyer Espee engine.  I have acquired an oil Vandy shell for my old 4-4-2 and in the New Year
it will haul a proper Espee tank.  And the second half of the resolution? Well late in life I've collected several of Flyer's
finest oil burner 4-8-4 locomotives; one of which will be re-badged as a Southern Pacific GS-1.  Seems like a good
start to the New Year.

Kenneth R. Clark
Chula Vista, CA 91921

Re: [HOsteam] OT Massive Trojan shuts down PC

mwbauers
 

I love your humor.

I have similar mega-files on my computers. But those computers have no less than 1,000 gigs of hard drives on them.

Your daughter may be ready to add a cheap 2,000 gig external hard drive to it, about $80.

I discovered that a game I have been running and growing over time was a really big offender on my computer. It was over 320-gigs with the many downloaded additions I had for it. I moved those files to a spare 750-gig external drive and liberated the space on my main drive, [1,000 gig].

I recently bought a specialty computer with pro-creation software on it. Its just a bit old and still has its original 160-gig drive with room for three other drives. It will be getting much larger drives on her while leaving the original drive in place. At least one of those new drives will be the system back-up drive for that computer, perhaps a 3,000 gig drive?

Extra drive space is a -good- thing.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Dec 14, 2013, at 11:57 PM, kenrclark@... wrote:



Recently while visiting family in Louisiana, I was tasked with fixing three PCs that had developed symptoms of viruses, etc...  The first, my mother-in-laws, was easy Spybot and MalwareBytes made short work of the infections and it was back to normal in no time.  The second, my granddaughter's laptop, had been used by her boyfriend and was also loaded with Malware, same fix restored everything to normal.  The third one , my daughter's PC, resisted the efforts of Spybot and MalwareBytes  The disk with the operating system was virtually full, I couldn't do any disk maintenance actions.  Exploring the hard way I found that there were 20 gigabytes of files I could not find.  On the last day after a good night's sleep, I remembered to display all the hidden files, and finally I found the offenders.  They were needed hidden in a folder named MobilSync, that folder nested two levels down from the folder.  Apple Software.  My daughter's iPad had been linked to her home network and had created massive files on the PC that filled the hard drive used by the operating system.

  Must be a new strategy by Apple to kill the PC.


I removed the files and the PC works again until the iPad sneezes again and the PC catches pneumonia.

ken clark

OT Massive Trojan shuts down PC

Ken Clark
 

Recently while visiting family in Louisiana, I was tasked with fixing three PCs that had developed symptoms of viruses, etc...  The first, my mother-in-laws, was easy Spybot and MalwareBytes made short work of the infections and it was back to normal in no time.  The second, my granddaughter's laptop, had been used by her boyfriend and was also loaded with Malware, same fix restored everything to normal.  The third one , my daughter's PC, resisted the efforts of Spybot and MalwareBytes  The disk with the operating system was virtually full, I couldn't do any disk maintenance actions.  Exploring the hard way I found that there were 20 gigabytes of files I could not find.  On the last day after a good night's sleep, I remembered to display all the hidden files, and finally I found the offenders.  They were needed hidden in a folder named MobilSync, that folder nested two levels down from the folder.  Apple Software.  My daughter's iPad had been linked to her home network and had created massive files on the PC that filled the hard drive used by the operating system.

  Must be a new strategy by Apple to kill the PC.


I removed the files and the PC works again until the iPad sneezes again and the PC catches pneumonia.

ken clark

Scratchbuilt tender, sound test

Kenneth Rickman
 

Hello folks,

I believe I've mentioned my construction blog on these tenders previously, and last night I finally posted my first ever YouTube video. I recorded the new tender making some noise on its own. I figure some of you here might be interested. There is no motion in the video (the tender was sitting still, and the camera was on a tripod), just sound. I am considering adding some polyfiber batting inside the tender to improve the sound, and I need to seal the opening around the speaker a bit better.
http://youtu.be/jnpN-Q3sxlg

Ken Rickman

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right" - Henry Ford

Re: [HOsteam] Styrene tender scratchbuild blog

Ken Clark
 

Ken,

Interesting read, keep posting your progress.

It appears that you intend to flatten the formed sides, apply the rivets and then reform the sides, hoping the rivets stay in place.
Did you try applying the rivets to the formed plastic sides and determine it was too difficult?  I've read other modelers using the 
rivet decals as their last step prior to painting, mostly on passenger cars IIRC.

Generally on rectangular tenders without the u-shaped water tank, the fuel bunker slope sheet matches the outside rivet pattern.  
This is true for oil burners as well and helps locate and size the fuel bunker inside the tender.  Given the small size of the prototype
railroad it is quite likely that they would not have custom built locos, but use either a standard design from a builder like Baldwin, 
or from a major affiliated railroad, Southern in this case.  If Southern did the Class 3 repairs on the locos, using Southern plans and
parts in their construction makes sense.  It also means there may be some imported models that can be inspected for ideas about 
detailing and modeling features.


Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921



-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Rickman
To: HO Steam Sent: Thu, Sep 12, 2013 3:59 am
Subject: [HOsteam] Styrene tender scratchbuild blog

 
I don't know if anyone here read the Model Railroad Hobbyist forum, but
this might be of interest. I'm in the process of building a set of five
tenders for my locomotive fleet, and I'm documenting the progress here:
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/15139

Ken Rickman

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right" - Henry Ford

Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

prgm_mgr
 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Last night I jambed  the end of an xacto knife blade between the nut and the plastic of the driver.  I held it in place by pressing the end of the handle on the work surface - this created enough pressure to keep the nut from turning. I like the idea of using some epoxy or other glue upon reassembly

 

Thanks again!

Mark 

-- In HOsteam@..., <hosteam@...> wrote:

I do not have any Tyco steam in my fleet, but what I have usually seen is that the nut is on the inside of the driver. Jabbing with an x-acto or small screwdriver from the back side will be just fine. For putting it back together, I would suggest a 2 part epoxy, keeping the bolt in the nut to have a good reference to keep things straight. When the epoxy sets, unscrew the bolt and put it in from the outside, through the side rods.

Hope This Helps,

Matthew


From: Mike Bauers <mwbauers55@...>;
To: <HOsteam@...>;
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels
Sent: Wed, Sep 11, 2013 9:14:45 PM

 
Perhaps you need to 'glue' the outer edge of the nut to the wheel?

How about tooth-pick applied...... 'breakable' Lock-Tite, ordinary super-glue, or 5-minute epoxy ????

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Sep 11, 2013, at 12:53 PM, <prgm_mgr@...> wrote:



Hi

I have a set of drivers from a tyco 0-8-0 that I need to remove the drive arms from.  On two sets of drivers, the nut the the bolt  screws into are spinning when I turn the bolt.  Any ideas of how to stabilize the nut so I can remove the bolt? I thought of jambing an xacto knife blade between the nut and the plastic on the wheel but don't want to damage the wheel.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

barfy barfy
 

I do not have any Tyco steam in my fleet, but what I have usually seen is that the nut is on the inside of the driver. Jabbing with an x-acto or small screwdriver from the back side will be just fine. For putting it back together, I would suggest a 2 part epoxy, keeping the bolt in the nut to have a good reference to keep things straight. When the epoxy sets, unscrew the bolt and put it in from the outside, through the side rods.

Hope This Helps,

Matthew


From: Mike Bauers ;
To: ;
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels
Sent: Wed, Sep 11, 2013 9:14:45 PM

 

Perhaps you need to 'glue' the outer edge of the nut to the wheel?

How about tooth-pick applied...... 'breakable' Lock-Tite, ordinary super-glue, or 5-minute epoxy ????

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Sep 11, 2013, at 12:53 PM, <prgm_mgr@...> wrote:



Hi

I have a set of drivers from a tyco 0-8-0 that I need to remove the drive arms from.  On two sets of drivers, the nut the the bolt  screws into are spinning when I turn the bolt.  Any ideas of how to stabilize the nut so I can remove the bolt? I thought of jambing an xacto knife blade between the nut and the plastic on the wheel but don't want to damage the wheel.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

mwbauers
 

Perhaps you need to 'glue' the outer edge of the nut to the wheel?

How about tooth-pick applied...... 'breakable' Lock-Tite, ordinary super-glue, or 5-minute epoxy ????

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Sep 11, 2013, at 12:53 PM, <prgm_mgr@...> wrote:



Hi

I have a set of drivers from a tyco 0-8-0 that I need to remove the drive arms from.  On two sets of drivers, the nut the the bolt  screws into are spinning when I turn the bolt.  Any ideas of how to stabilize the nut so I can remove the bolt? I thought of jambing an xacto knife blade between the nut and the plastic on the wheel but don't want to damage the wheel.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

prgm_mgr
 

 

--- In HOsteam@..., <hosteam@...> wrote: