Date   
Re: Styrene tender scratchbuild blog

prgm_mgr
 

 Looking Great!

Mark


--- In HOsteam@..., <hosteam@...> wrote:

I don't know if anyone here read the Model Railroad Hobbyist forum, but
this might be of interest. I'm in the process of building a set of five
tenders for my locomotive fleet, and I'm documenting the progress here:
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/15139

Ken Rickman

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right" - Henry Ford

Styrene tender scratchbuild blog

Kenneth Rickman
 

I don't know if anyone here read the Model Railroad Hobbyist forum, but this might be of interest. I'm in the process of building a set of five tenders for my locomotive fleet, and I'm documenting the progress here: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/15139

Ken Rickman

--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right" - Henry Ford

Re: [HOsteam] Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

Kenneth Rickman
 

A drop of CA might suffice to hold the nut in place. I find that nuts like that usually don't take a lot to hold them, unless the bolt is really seized up in the nut.

Ken Rickman

On 9/11/2013 1:53 PM, prgm_mgr@... wrote:
On two sets of drivers, the nut the the bolt screws into are spinning when I turn the bolt. Any ideas of how to stabilize the nut so I can remove the bolt?
--
Kenneth Rickman
Salisbury, NC
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right" - Henry Ford

Removing Pins from drivers on Tyco wheels

prgm_mgr
 

Hi

I have a set of drivers from a tyco 0-8-0 that I need to remove the drive arms from.  On two sets of drivers, the nut the the bolt  screws into are spinning when I turn the bolt.  Any ideas of how to stabilize the nut so I can remove the bolt? I thought of jambing an xacto knife blade between the nut and the plastic on the wheel but don't want to damage the wheel.

 

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Thanks

Mark K

Re: Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

morey200152
 

--- In HOsteam@..., acl-wayne wrote:
Thanks for the tip, I thought I had tried the pin with a screwdriver
previously, without success. The next time I have a need to strip one
of my Mikes down I will remember this

Chris Morey


Chris,

Look closely at the crank pin location. You should see a very, very
small Phillips head screw that you will have to match exactly with a
screwdriver bit. I believe the screw has right-hand threads. After you
carefully remove the screw and save it, the eccentric lifts off of the
boss on the driver. Mark the position of the eccentric before you work
on the screw to save frustration later, when you assemble the
locomotive. BTW, the side rods are held in place by hex-headed, small
machine screws.

Wayne Long




Re: Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

Wayne Long
 

On 7/29/2013 9:15 AM, morey200152 wrote:


While we're on the topic, how does the valve gear come apart on the
Genesis Mikados? Most guides seem to stop with removing the boiler. In
particular, how does one take the eccentric crank off from the main
crank pin? I have taken my engines apart to this point, but for some
reason this disassembly does not appear obvious to me. Is it a
threaded crankpin or some sort of push on friction fit?

Chris Morey
Chris,

Look closely at the crank pin location. You should see a very, very
small Phillips head screw that you will have to match exactly with a
screwdriver bit. I believe the screw has right-hand threads. After you
carefully remove the screw and save it, the eccentric lifts off of the
boss on the driver. Mark the position of the eccentric before you work
on the screw to save frustration later, when you assemble the
locomotive. BTW, the side rods are held in place by hex-headed, small
machine screws.

Wayne Long

Re: Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

morey200152
 

While we're on the topic, how does the valve gear come apart on the Genesis Mikados? Most guides seem to stop with removing the boiler. In particular, how does one take the eccentric crank off from the main crank pin? I have taken my engines apart to this point, but for some reason this disassembly does not appear obvious to me. Is it a threaded crankpin or some sort of push on friction fit?


Chris Morey

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

Ken Clark
 

Ron,
NWSL makes flywheels that have recesses large enough for the Hobbytown universals, Some of the old Timewell flywheels were similar.
OMI used a small 2mm shaft universal in their diesels; also very fragile, they would break before the drivers would slip. As more importers
find good deals on 2mm shaft motors, expect to see more bad 2mm universals failing.


Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@...>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 5:55 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals






The universal is the smallest I have seen. Both pieces fit inside of the flywheel. a plastic piece on the 2 steel shafts and a rubber connection between them.
The shaft is 2 MM

Ron

________________________________
From: Kenneth Clark <@SP4149>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals



Ron, Wayne,

I have long used universals in HO Steam models; there are significant advantages compared to flexible tubing.
The biggest is reduced current draw as measured with a milliamp meter. I have used several different universals;
Athearn, NWSL, PSC, Grandt, OMI, Proto Power West as well as Hobbytown. For durability, smoothness, and
quiet operation the three Hobbytown universals are the best in most instances. Check my repowering guide(s) at:

http://shastasprings.com/repower/guide_to_repowering_and_regearing.htm

http://www.shastasprings.com/

for more information and examples on how I've used universals. NWSL understands the problems with shrinking
plastic gears and universals and I recommend their replacement gears. I just find the Hobbytown universals just
better overall.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: rxensen <@RonC>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@...>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 3:32 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Wayne
I replaced the broken gear with a Nortwest Short Line gear.
Now the universals are both cracked, in fact one completely broke in 3 pieces.
Ron
On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:32 PM, acl-wayne <acl-wayne@...> wrote:

On 7/26/2013 4:13 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and
2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.
I have 2 Genesis Pacifics. The first one I bought ran very well until
the plastic gear on the driven driver shaft split. I was able to
obtain one for free from Athearn. The second one had the same split
gear from the factory. From information gained from reading various
lists, like this one, I determined to purchase a replacement gear from
NWSL who also sells universals.

Once repaired, both locomotives have run well and pulled well, that is,
after sawing about 2" off of the front of each weight and substituting a
custom-made lead weight of the same size. Also, I had to remove the
springs on all of the leading and trailing trucks so the balanced weight
could bear full force on the drivers.

Incidentally, while the drive axle gear never split on my Athearn 2-8-2,
I had to perform the same repairs to the weight and trucks.
You might say that I practiced on the 2-8-2 so that repairing the
Pacifics was easy.

Wayne Long


I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is
fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC <mailto:rxensen%40yahoo.com>>;;
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>>;;
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the
motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something
like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell
apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also
cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same
thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older
locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...
<mailto:rogertra%40highspeedplus.com>>;;
To: HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>;;
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart


I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond
what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope
will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather
than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off
what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the
boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
<http://www.highspeedplus.com/%7Erogertra/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

ron christensen
 

The universal is the smallest I have seen.  Both pieces fit inside of the flywheel. a plastic piece on the 2 steel shafts and a rubber connection between them.
The shaft is 2 MM
 
Ron


________________________________
From: Kenneth Clark <@SP4149>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals



 
Ron, Wayne,

I have long used universals in HO Steam models; there are significant advantages compared to flexible tubing.
The biggest is reduced current draw as measured with a milliamp meter. I have used several different universals;
Athearn, NWSL, PSC, Grandt, OMI, Proto Power West as well as Hobbytown. For durability, smoothness, and
quiet operation the three Hobbytown universals are the best in most instances. Check my repowering guide(s) at:

http://shastasprings.com/repower/guide_to_repowering_and_regearing.htm

http://www.shastasprings.com/

for more information and examples on how I've used universals. NWSL understands the problems with shrinking
plastic gears and universals and I recommend their replacement gears. I just find the Hobbytown universals just
better overall.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: rxensen <@RonC>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@...>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 3:32 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Wayne
I replaced the broken gear with a Nortwest Short Line gear.
Now the universals are both cracked, in fact one completely broke in 3 pieces.
Ron
On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:32 PM, acl-wayne <acl-wayne@...> wrote:

On 7/26/2013 4:13 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and
2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.
I have 2 Genesis Pacifics. The first one I bought ran very well until
the plastic gear on the driven driver shaft split. I was able to
obtain one for free from Athearn. The second one had the same split
gear from the factory. From information gained from reading various
lists, like this one, I determined to purchase a replacement gear from
NWSL who also sells universals.

Once repaired, both locomotives have run well and pulled well, that is,
after sawing about 2" off of the front of each weight and substituting a
custom-made lead weight of the same size. Also, I had to remove the
springs on all of the leading and trailing trucks so the balanced weight
could bear full force on the drivers.

Incidentally, while the drive axle gear never split on my Athearn 2-8-2,
I had to perform the same repairs to the weight and trucks.
You might say that I practiced on the 2-8-2 so that repairing the
Pacifics was easy.

Wayne Long


I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is
fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC <mailto:rxensen%40yahoo.com>>;
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>>;
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the
motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something
like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell
apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also
cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same
thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older
locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...
<mailto:rogertra%40highspeedplus.com>>;
To: HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>;
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart


I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond
what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope
will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather
than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off
what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the
boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
<http://www.highspeedplus.com/%7Erogertra/>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart - Universals

Ken Clark
 

Ron, Wayne,


I have long used universals in HO Steam models; there are significant advantages compared to flexible tubing.
The biggest is reduced current draw as measured with a milliamp meter. I have used several different universals;
Athearn, NWSL, PSC, Grandt, OMI, Proto Power West as well as Hobbytown. For durability, smoothness, and
quiet operation the three Hobbytown universals are the best in most instances. Check my repowering guide(s) at:


http://shastasprings.com/repower/guide_to_repowering_and_regearing.htm


http://www.shastasprings.com/




for more information and examples on how I've used universals. NWSL understands the problems with shrinking
plastic gears and universals and I recommend their replacement gears. I just find the Hobbytown universals just
better overall.


Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: rxensen <@RonC>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@...>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 3:32 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart






Wayne
I replaced the broken gear with a Nortwest Short Line gear.
Now the universals are both cracked, in fact one completely broke in 3 pieces.
Ron
On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:32 PM, acl-wayne <acl-wayne@...> wrote:

On 7/26/2013 4:13 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and
2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.
I have 2 Genesis Pacifics. The first one I bought ran very well until
the plastic gear on the driven driver shaft split. I was able to
obtain one for free from Athearn. The second one had the same split
gear from the factory. From information gained from reading various
lists, like this one, I determined to purchase a replacement gear from
NWSL who also sells universals.

Once repaired, both locomotives have run well and pulled well, that is,
after sawing about 2" off of the front of each weight and substituting a
custom-made lead weight of the same size. Also, I had to remove the
springs on all of the leading and trailing trucks so the balanced weight
could bear full force on the drivers.

Incidentally, while the drive axle gear never split on my Athearn 2-8-2,
I had to perform the same repairs to the weight and trucks.
You might say that I practiced on the 2-8-2 so that repairing the
Pacifics was easy.

Wayne Long


I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is
fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC <mailto:rxensen%40yahoo.com>>;
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>>;
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the
motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something
like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell
apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also
cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same
thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older
locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...
<mailto:rogertra%40highspeedplus.com>>;
To: HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>;
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart


I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond
what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope
will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather
than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off
what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the
boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
<http://www.highspeedplus.com/%7Erogertra/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

ron christensen
 

Wayne
I replaced the broken gear with a Nortwest Short Line gear.
Now the universals are both cracked, in fact one completely broke in 3 pieces.
Ron

On Jul 26, 2013, at 5:32 PM, acl-wayne <acl-wayne@...> wrote:

On 7/26/2013 4:13 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and
2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.
I have 2 Genesis Pacifics. The first one I bought ran very well until
the plastic gear on the driven driver shaft split. I was able to
obtain one for free from Athearn. The second one had the same split
gear from the factory. From information gained from reading various
lists, like this one, I determined to purchase a replacement gear from
NWSL who also sells universals.

Once repaired, both locomotives have run well and pulled well, that is,
after sawing about 2" off of the front of each weight and substituting a
custom-made lead weight of the same size. Also, I had to remove the
springs on all of the leading and trailing trucks so the balanced weight
could bear full force on the drivers.

Incidentally, while the drive axle gear never split on my Athearn 2-8-2,
I had to perform the same repairs to the weight and trucks.
You might say that I practiced on the 2-8-2 so that repairing the
Pacifics was easy.

Wayne Long


I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is
fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC <mailto:rxensen%40yahoo.com>>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the
motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something
like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell
apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also
cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same
thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older
locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...
<mailto:rogertra%40highspeedplus.com>>
To: HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart


I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond
what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope
will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather
than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off
what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the
boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
<http://www.highspeedplus.com/%7Erogertra/>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Wayne Long
 

On 7/26/2013 4:13 PM, Kenneth Clark wrote:

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and
2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.
I have 2 Genesis Pacifics. The first one I bought ran very well until
the plastic gear on the driven driver shaft split. I was able to
obtain one for free from Athearn. The second one had the same split
gear from the factory. From information gained from reading various
lists, like this one, I determined to purchase a replacement gear from
NWSL who also sells universals.

Once repaired, both locomotives have run well and pulled well, that is,
after sawing about 2" off of the front of each weight and substituting a
custom-made lead weight of the same size. Also, I had to remove the
springs on all of the leading and trailing trucks so the balanced weight
could bear full force on the drivers.

Incidentally, while the drive axle gear never split on my Athearn 2-8-2,
I had to perform the same repairs to the weight and trucks.
You might say that I practiced on the 2-8-2 so that repairing the
Pacifics was easy.

Wayne Long




I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is
fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.

Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC <mailto:rxensen%40yahoo.com>>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the
motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something
like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell
apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also
cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same
thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older
locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...
<mailto:rogertra%40highspeedplus.com>>
To: HOsteam@... <mailto:HOsteam%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart


I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond
what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope
will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather
than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off
what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the
boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/
<http://www.highspeedplus.com/%7Erogertra/>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Ken Clark
 

Ron,
Will a Hobbytown universal fit? They are available in both 2mm and 2.4mm (3/32nd) shaft sizes.


I have never had one fail. Failure of other 2mm shaft universals is fairly common, one reason I don't favor 2mm shaft motors and gearboxes.


Kenneth R. Clark
P.O. Box 212454
Chula Vista, CA 91921

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen <@RonC>
To: HOsteam <HOsteam@...>
Sent: Fri, Jul 26, 2013 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart






I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older locomotives had.


Ron Christensen

________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart




I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Roger T
 

-----Original Message-----
From: ron christensen
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 12:49 PM
To: HOsteam@...
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the motor was in the clear.
Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something like a Athearn diesel would have.
This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older locomotives had.


Ron Christensen


________________________________

Ron.

Cracked gears on both the 4-6-2 and the 2-8-2 were and are very, very common. Even on brand new engines right out of the box.

Sadly, Athearn's response was less than stellar when it come to honouring their warranty. Even though these were the first locomotives of the Genesis line, they ran advertisements a year or so ago touting what they called their first locomotive of the Genesis line, completely ignoring the 4-8-2 and 2-8-2.

I have two each of the 4-6-2s and the 2-8-2 and, with a bit of work, like adding front couplers, balancing the engines to improve tracking, adding weight etc., they did turn out to be sweet running locomotives. However, they've been packed away now going on three years so I'm somewhat concerned over what I will find when I go to convert them to DCC in the future.




Cheers.

Roger T.

Home of the late Great Eastern Railway
http://greateasternrailway.com

More photos of the late GER at: -
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

ron christensen
 

I got back to the Athearn Pacific locomotive today and found the problem.
 After removing the plastic cover, and opening the metal weigh the motor was in the clear.
 Looking at the brass weight I found a plastic universal, something like a Athearn diesel would have.
 This was covered with a rubber tube slotted to fit the universal.
 The universal had cracked and when I tried to remove it, it fell apart. On closer inspection the universal on the gear housing is also cracked. I suspect the lubrication was the cause. This is the same thing that happened to the gear and early Prototype 2000 locomotives.
Now where to find a universal. Or maybe just a rubber tube like older locomotives had.
 

Ron Christensen


________________________________
From: Roger T. <rogertra@...>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart



 

I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Roger T
 

I agree but I had saved this file several years ago (on a now dead computer) and did not have the original link.



John Hagen

------------------------------------

John.

Understand. :-)

As you probably saw, I posted instructions anyway.



Cheers.

Roger T.

Home of the late Great Eastern Railway
http://greateasternrailway.com

More photos of the late GER at: -
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

John Hagen
 

Roger T,



I agree but I had saved this file several years ago (on a now dead computer) and did not have the original link.



John Hagen



From: HOsteam@... [mailto:HOsteam@...] On Behalf Of Roger T.
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 2:19 PM
To: HOsteam@...
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart






I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather than
just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off what I
think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

Roger T
 

I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

-----------------------------------------------------

It would be really helpful if people posted links to the files rather than just posting, "I've uploaded a file....."

Posting a link take seconds and is very helpful.

Just sayin'

Having said that: -

Disassembly instructions follow:

The boiler isn't easy to remove but it does come off.

1) Remove the screw up through the cylinders and into the smoke box.

2) Release the cab using a small blade to release the tabs
at the back wall of the cab and on the sides of the firebox
near the front corners of the cab. Release the cab grab
irons from the "buffing plate"

3) Remove the cab.

4) Remove the smoke box stays from the pilot deck and
smoke box, remove the steps and running board from
the pilot deck and above the cylinders.

5) Lift the back of the firebox end of the boiler until it clears
the top of the motor. It will clear, just be firm with it, it's
a VERY tight fit.

6) With the firebox now clear of the motor, GENTLY
squeeze the running boards near the motion
bracket (To release another set of clips inside
the boiler) and at the same time GENTLY twist the
boiler to the left and slide it forward.

The boiler should now slide away from the chassis and not break off what I think is a mechanical lubricator on the front right hand side of the boiler.

Reverse this procedure, which is just as awkward, to reassemble the
locomotive. I've done this to both my 2-8-2s. Be VERY careful with
the motor wires, they break away from the tabs VERY easily.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------

You may as well do the following while it's disassembled to improve
the tracking and pulling ability:-

Add lead behind the smoke box door. As steam in the 50s didn't use
the headlight in daylight, I removed the wiring for this and used the
space for more lead.

Fill the steam dome and sand box with lead shot.

Remove the cylinders and fill them with lead shot, leaving room for the
piston rod to slide in and out.

Permanently remove the screw that goes up between the cylinders into
the firebox and fill the steam chest with lead.

Remove the lip from the wire opening in the tender.

Cut off the sleeve on the wiring harness and removed the 2 or three
wires that are not used from the wiring harness.

Remove the pressure springs on both the leading and trailing trucks.

Install a working front coupler.

Removed the "stepped" stack and replace it with a brass casting.

Both of my Athearn 2-8-2s will now out pull the Bachmann 2-8-0s on any
of my grades.

Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra/

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

ron christensen
 

I have removed the top and took pictures of the removal, and will keep taking pictures until I'm done.
Your information was a great help the Pacific seems to come apart like the Mike information.
However the Mike breakdown drawing is of little help 
 
Ron
 
From: John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart



 
Ron,

I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

John Hagen

From: HOsteam@... [mailto:HOsteam@...] On Behalf Of
rxensen
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:58 AM
To: HOsteam@...
Subject: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I need to remove the shell off a Genesis pacific. Has any one done this? and
what is the secret?
Bill Scott gave me a lead . but the MR web site is down this AM.
Ron christensen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

ron christensen
 

I don't think so as I have a mikes instruction.
 It says the part is at the walk way and on the pacific the walk way is not full length.
I will look at it thanks
 
Ron


________________________________
From: John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
To: HOsteam@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart



 
Ron,

I just uploaded a new file about improving the Athearn Genesis Mikado's
performance by Dr. Wayne from zealot.com. While it goes much beyond what you
are requesting it begins with removing the mike's shell which I hope will be
pretty similar to removing the pacific's shell also. Hope it helps.

John Hagen

From: HOsteam@... [mailto:HOsteam@...] On Behalf Of
rxensen
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:58 AM
To: HOsteam@...
Subject: [HOsteam] Taking a Athearn Genesis pacific apart

I need to remove the shell off a Genesis pacific. Has any one done this? and
what is the secret?
Bill Scott gave me a lead . but the MR web site is down this AM.
Ron christensen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]