Date   

Re: [HOsteam] Digest Number 583

modeltrainnut
 

"ken_olson54022" wrote:

Subject: Bachmann HO 4-6-0 headlight
My low boilered 10 wheeler came with a bluish white LED for a
headlight that more resembles a deathray from a low budget sci-fi
movie than anything else. Has anyone else out there dealt with this
problem yet? What did you do?
PLEASE NOTE!! In the interest of avoiding interminably long threads
of questionable value, I'd appreciate information on something that
someone has ACTUALLY DONE from someone who has actually done it, not
suggestions on something that may or may not work.
Thanks in advance.
Ken Olson

Ken,

The method I use is to place a small circular piece of plastic photographic color filter material in front of the LED. The filter is an orange color, and the result is very close to normal incandescent lighting.

You can order the filter material from B&H Photo/Video. A 20"x24" piece costs $5.95 plus shipping and will do hundreds of headlights since you only need a piece about 1/8" in diameter!

I have used the following two colors:

Rosco
#3407 roscosun cto 20x24" /sh

Mfr# 340711 B&H# RO3407S

Item condition: -->
and

Rosco
#3408 roscosun 1/2 cto 20x24" /sh

Mfr# 340811 B&H# RO3408S
Item condition: -->
The first #3407 is a darker orange. You can use either color or both together to get the color you want.

Try this link:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

and go to
B&H USED DEPARTMENT Browse Used Department Photo Digital Video Lighting A/V Presentation Binoculars & Scopes Pro Audio -->
Home < Lighting & Studio < General Lighting Accessories < Lighting Controls & Modifiers < Lighting Filters & Accessories < Lighting Filters

Or you can type the B&H stock number into their search box.

I purchased 3 sheets of filter material and spent $24 including shipping.

You could try a local photo shop to see if they carry the same filter material.

Good luck!

Rich Velten



---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Bachmann HO 4-6-0 headlight

ken_olson54022 <kwolson@...>
 

--- In HOsteam@yahoogroups.com, "Brian McKenzie" <brianCAD@x> wrote:


If Kader are the factory responsible (just how many oriental
producers are
there?) then I would expect similar improvement in current Bachmann
models,
and maybe replacement LED from some enterprising body.

--Brian McKenzie
I wish.....The 4-6-0 is the latest offering and it is a giant step
backward from the Shay or 0-6-0 saddletank. Hence my great angst.

Ken Olson


Re: [HOsteam] Railroad origin (re run)

Nelson Kennedy <nelsonk@...>
 

But most of all, carry it somewhere else :-). This story is an
everblooming perennial that appears at least twice a yaear on any and
all RR related groups :-).
Absolutely! And for that reason I killed the original post as soon as I
saw it to avoid any ongoing angst - but not before someone else saw it and
requoted it!

Let's leave it to Roman legend, guys.


Nelson Kennedy
Christchurch, New Zealand
NZR 0 gauge and H0 Espee at http://downunder.railfan.net
Stuff for 1:32 models at http://ninemill.railfan.net


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

mwbauers
 

Brian McKenzie wrote:
Mike Bauers wrote:

I see I should post a close-up pic of an AHM wheel set nested in a
three jaw mill chuck. It's a very small amount of material in the
cross section that gets removed.
Yes please. I can't quite picture what you are suggesting - unless it is
merely gripping one wheel by its tread, with its flange and the opposing
wheel protruding.
Much like that.... I'll get the pics together.


There are pre-made RP-25 profile cutters available that would cut
both wheel taper and flange in one bite from a blank.....
Yes, and I have used several with varying degrees of success.

or re-shape a really poor wheel to proper profile.
Probably not. It would wreck it first unless the wheel could be very
rigidly mounted and supported fully (if spoked) in a lathe possessing a bit
of heft.

In most cases, you are only removing a very few thousandth's of metal.
Yes, but it is being removed simultaneously over a wide cutting face, thus
exerting tremendous pressure on the wheel. Brass does turn readily with
form tools but other materials can be troublesome and often tear, because of
a lack of side clearance inherent in form tools. Ferrous materials need
quick tool withdrawal to prevent rubbing, but this leaves a step in the
diameter.
Yes, but we are usually dealing with brass and it's alloys on our models, and only trimming the oversized, but still tiny flange, in this case.

As to your experience with ferrous, I've got years of shop observation that show me that is not a concern for the tens of thousands of turned steel and iron truck wheels that have gone through our shop over the decades. You mainly have to use the right speed and feed to cleanly turn a blank round burnout, cut-off, or forging into a profiled wheel with the correct composition cutters and flood coolants.

It really gets down to a secure grip on the back, cutting on the front with a suitable speed and feed for the material, chips that won't get in the way, and using a cutter that will stay sharp during the operation.

Try it, but best not with someone else's wheels. Then advise us - but
please, not before some practical experience.
I'll get some snaps together Monday night after I get back from staying with some relatives that are going through the hospital.

What I have been describing is how I modified my lathe in a few seconds over twenty years ago and have since put several dozens of wheels through; as well as how it is done on much larger wheels in very large batches at the P&H Mining Shovel manufacturing plant where I work.

It has worked for them for over 110 years and it works for me as well.

They have dozens of sets of cut to holding diameter soft jaw inserts for their three jaw chucks at each machine and I've found that a decent compromise cutting that I used has allowed me to use the same jaws on every HO and N scale wheel set I've re-tools so far.

I first thought I would have to buy extra jaws and do the same multiple sizing of the receiver recess. But I never needed to get those additional sets. Perhaps it is because there is only a one inch range of diameter change that I've run through the chuck between coach wheels and the average steamer driver?

I'll get those pics up ASAP

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA


Re: [HOsteam] Railroad origin (re run)

Larry Blanchard <lgb@...>
 

mike wrote:

And the Romans got their design from the Babylonians.
And the Babylonians got their design from.......
You can carry the story as far back as the domestication of horses if
you like.

But most of all, carry it somewhere else :-). This story is an
everblooming perennial that appears at least twice a yaear on any and
all RR related groups :-).

--
To announce that there must be no criticism of the president or that we
are to stand by the president, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic
and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public.
Teddy Roosevelt


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

Brian McKenzie <brianCAD@...>
 

Mike Bauers wrote:

I see I should post a close-up pic of an AHM wheel set nested in a
three jaw mill chuck. It's a very small amount of material in the
cross section that gets removed.
Yes please. I can't quite picture what you are suggesting - unless it is
merely gripping one wheel by its tread, with its flange and the opposing
wheel protruding.

There are pre-made RP-25 profile cutters available that would cut
both wheel taper and flange in one bite from a blank.....
Yes, and I have used several with varying degrees of success.

or re-shape a really poor wheel to proper profile.
Probably not. It would wreck it first unless the wheel could be very
rigidly mounted and supported fully (if spoked) in a lathe possessing a bit
of heft.

In most cases, you are only removing a very few thousandth's of metal.
Yes, but it is being removed simultaneously over a wide cutting face, thus
exerting tremendous pressure on the wheel. Brass does turn readily with
form tools but other materials can be troublesome and often tear, because of
a lack of side clearance inherent in form tools. Ferrous materials need
quick tool withdrawal to prevent rubbing, but this leaves a step in the
diameter.

Try it, but best not with someone else's wheels. Then advise us - but
please, not before some practical experience.

--Brian McKenzie


Re: Bachmann HO 4-6-0 headlight

Brian McKenzie <brianCAD@...>
 

"ken_olson54022" commented....
My low boilered 10 wheeler came with a bluish white LED.....
The Chinese factory that manufactures the Lenz 0-6-0 diesel shunter/switcher
is using an improved version that has a different coating. A bluish fringe
is still discernable when the chassis is separate to the body.

If Kader are the factory responsible (just how many oriental producers are
there?) then I would expect similar improvement in current Bachmann models,
and maybe replacement LED from some enterprising body.

--Brian McKenzie


Bachmann HO 4-6-0 headlight

ken_olson54022 <kwolson@...>
 

My low boilered 10 wheeler came with a bluish white LED for a
headlight that more resembles a deathray from a low budget sci-fi
movie than anything else. Has anyone else out there dealt with this
problem yet? What did you do?
PLEASE NOTE!! In the interest of avoiding interminably long threads
of questionable value, I'd appreciate information on something that
someone has ACTUALLY DONE from someone who has actually done it, not
suggestions on something that may or may not work.
Thanks in advance.
Ken Olson


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

mwbauers
 

Brian McKenzie wrote:
Guys,
Reducing Rivarossi wheel flanges is fraught with danger and some of the
ideas advanced will certainly lead to their destruction - as it did for me
in my early hobby days.
Unless individual wheels can be adequately supported by shaped pegs clamped
through the spokes, to the end of a round bar in a lathe, they may not
survive the forces exerted by a turning tool.
I see I should post a close-up pic of an AHM wheel set nested in a three jaw mill chuck. It's a very small amount of material in the cross section that gets removed.

A similar set-up works well in conjunction with a Dremel type tool fitted
with a suitable grinding wheel. Ideally, the grinding wheel tool will be
under some sort of steady in-feed control and the wheel should turn
relatively slowly, say 150-200 revs, which is possibly slower than some
small lathes provide.
There are pre-made RP-25 profile cutters available that would cut both wheel taper and flange in one bite from a blank, or re-shape a really poor wheel to proper profile.

The main secret is to securely mount the wheel or wheel set so that it can be cut as a rigid part. In most cases, you are only removing a very few thousandth's of metal. The closer you work to the mill chuck, the more rigid the cut will be. If you can get the part you need to cut near there, you don't need much of an elaborate holding fixture. I find that a 3 inch lathe chuck works well on wheels under two inches real diameter if you nest the outside of the wheel into the mount of the chuck and wind up cutting first from the back of the wheel and then trimming the contour of the snipped flange inline with the flange itself.

It's the same way all truck wheels, motor heads, and contoured rollers are manufactured in the machine shop at Da Job; just nest securely into trimmed jaws and cut.

Look at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HOsteam/files/Grinder%20Workhead.jpg
in the Group Files, to see a device used for applying a slight taper to axle
ends, or for truing wheels. A finer grit wheel than the one in the photo is
used. As axles/wheels rotate about their own axis it is easy to make minor
adjustments/corrections. The electric motor is from an old record player
and the drive belt is sliced from mountain bike tube.
A slick solution.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

Brian McKenzie <brianCAD@...>
 

Guys,

Reducing Rivarossi wheel flanges is fraught with danger and some of the
ideas advanced will certainly lead to their destruction - as it did for me
in my early hobby days.

Unless individual wheels can be adequately supported by shaped pegs clamped
through the spokes, to the end of a round bar in a lathe, they may not
survive the forces exerted by a turning tool.

A similar set-up works well in conjunction with a Dremel type tool fitted
with a suitable grinding wheel. Ideally, the grinding wheel tool will be
under some sort of steady in-feed control and the wheel should turn
relatively slowly, say 150-200 revs, which is possibly slower than some
small lathes provide.

Look at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HOsteam/files/Grinder%20Workhead.jpg
in the Group Files, to see a device used for applying a slight taper to axle
ends, or for truing wheels. A finer grit wheel than the one in the photo is
used. As axles/wheels rotate about their own axis it is easy to make minor
adjustments/corrections. The electric motor is from an old record player
and the drive belt is sliced from mountain bike tube.

--Brian McKenzie


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

Tom Knowles <ncstl@...>
 

Bob,

This is an excellent idea.

Thanks,

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 1:37 PM
Subject: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?


Keeping in mind that I have never actually turned down flanges in HO
scale,
I've wondered if the following might also work? Instead of using the
model
motor and siderods to do the turning, remove them, just leaving the
wheelset
(probably just one at a time) in the frame. The wheel could then be
turned
with some sort of motor (electric drill, motor tool, whatever) that had a
small rubber wheel attached to the shaft. The motor might be hand held,
or
held against the driver via a spring or screw-type adjustment. The
spinning
driver could then have a file and/or abrasive applied to the flange to
reduce it's height. One might use a lathe-type cutter as described below,
if very light cuts were made. A DC motor (perhaps from an old model)
could
be easily controlled for speed if it were powerful enough. Not sure if
the
frame should be upside down or right side up. One might apply notched
paper
shims between the inside of the driver and the frame to help keep grit out
of the bearing. The experience I've had with lathes and drill presses in
turning wheels (at least in larger scales) is that it is very difficult
to
get them to run true. There always seemed to be a tiny bit of
eccentricity
and wobble if held by the axle, even with careful centering of a 4-jaw
chuck.

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Knowles" <ncstl@mindspring.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


Bob,

So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a while
for
me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures I
learned
"way back when", when useful. The problem with "carbide brake shoes" in
H.O.
scale is the force required of the mechanism to do the work Secondary
problem is the residue from turning gets in the rather loose clearances
of
siderods/crank pins and wears them out very quickly in the process. One
must
do one wheel at a time which stresses that particular rod heavily, too.
I
can't imagine this is easy on either the gearboxes or motor either. A
full
size loco on track with wheel turning shoes has some benefits of scale!

As for re-wheeling, I suppose anything is possible if you want to do it
badly enough. I would have no trouble "adjusting" the journal slots to
take
other drivers. I have priced proper, beautiful replacement (scale)
drivers
at $18 and axle from Greenway products (and for other scratch-building
exercises) and find this prohibitive on my modeling budget. I really
don't
want the drivers any larger, as the 71" is close enough on the Pacific
and
the 54" is just right on the articulated for my purposes. So you see,
I'm
kind of in a quandary. Maybe I should buy one of those cheap ($3-400)
little
Chinese lathes from "Northern" for all the little stuff I often need to
do
on a lathe. Unwheeling and turning seems the best solution for now.

I agree with you about Riv and their penchant for undersize
drivers...probably has something to do with getting the overall look to
be
right with those large flanges of yesteryear. Certainly not needed
today.
What IS needed is a good source of parts for the steam freak....this
appears
to be a dieing art, scale and full-size.

Love to hear more of your Large Scale experiences.

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that
could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat
lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This
seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in RMC,
dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another engine,
such
as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from the
Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has
changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option would
still
be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section), one
reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size drivers for
their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a precision
matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just apply
thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and
better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick, but
some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out of
their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist: just
take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a carbide
cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light
pressure
with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles
for
Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on
an
old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I
turned
the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the
engines
own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it
unuseable.
I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe
to
do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has
a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while
ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw
stub
to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter
makes
a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks
just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the
last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



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Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question

stevie the great <stevie66_pa@...>
 

Hi Everyone,
Having sat here watching all the talk about turning Rivarossi wheels I have come to a conclusion. That is there is no way I can do this myself...lol...I have neither the tools or the steady hand to do this ( I have no problem admitting my faults...lol). This still leaves me with a problem. I have a few Rivarossi steamers in need of flange turning. So if any of you folks that have done this in the past and are willing to turn a few more please contact me and let me know how much and where to send them. I hope one of you folks can help me.
Thanks,

Steve Moats
Tom Knowles <ncstl@mindspring.com> wrote:Bob,

So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a while for
me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures I learned
"way back when", when useful. The problem with "carbide brake shoes" in H.O.
scale is the force required of the mechanism to do the work Secondary
problem is the residue from turning gets in the rather loose clearances of
siderods/crank pins and wears them out very quickly in the process. One must
do one wheel at a time which stresses that particular rod heavily, too. I
can't imagine this is easy on either the gearboxes or motor either. A full
size loco on track with wheel turning shoes has some benefits of scale!

As for re-wheeling, I suppose anything is possible if you want to do it
badly enough. I would have no trouble "adjusting" the journal slots to take
other drivers. I have priced proper, beautiful replacement (scale) drivers
at $18 and axle from Greenway products (and for other scratch-building
exercises) and find this prohibitive on my modeling budget. I really don't
want the drivers any larger, as the 71" is close enough on the Pacific and
the 54" is just right on the articulated for my purposes. So you see, I'm
kind of in a quandary. Maybe I should buy one of those cheap ($3-400) little
Chinese lathes from "Northern" for all the little stuff I often need to do
on a lathe. Unwheeling and turning seems the best solution for now.

I agree with you about Riv and their penchant for undersize
drivers...probably has something to do with getting the overall look to be
right with those large flanges of yesteryear. Certainly not needed today.
What IS needed is a good source of parts for the steam freak....this appears
to be a dieing art, scale and full-size.

Love to hear more of your Large Scale experiences.

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that
could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat
lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in RMC, dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another engine, such
as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from the
Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option would still be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section), one reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size drivers for
their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a precision matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just apply
thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick, but some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out of their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist: just take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a carbide cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light pressure
with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles for
Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on an
old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I turned
the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the engines
own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it unuseable.
I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe to
do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while
ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw stub to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter makes a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



Keeping the memory of steam alive!
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Sherline Slow Speed, etc. Was [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - a warning!

Carol & Jerry Jankura <jerry.jankura@...>
 

Hi, Mike:

I never bothered to make a collar for the wheelsets, I opened the jaws
of the head and cut a small shelf, notch, on the inside of the jaws. I
place the wheels sets in only snugly, finger tightened, and use a slow
speed attachment in normal operation.
What kind of "slow speed" attachment are you talking about?

A mill/lathe is only worth using in the shop if you think you might try
making your own locomotive from one of the great books available on the
subject.
What books are you referring to? I assume HO Scale? I bought a Sherline mill
and lathe a couple of years ago with the express idea of building a
locomotive and tender. To date, I haven't gotten too far although I've used
the tools to build gauges, etc. for my woodworking tools and also have added
CNC to the mill. I've been having a really good time, especially working on
the software development (Prior to retirement, I developed machine
automation systems so the CNC came quite naturally to me). I'd love to get a
couple of good books on the subject. BTW, do you have a web page that has
info on the tools + the brass loco?

Older small lathes do turn up at swap meets and the like for quite
reasonable prices. It's worth while to look around for one of those
until you find one. It used to be that often enough the old Unimats with
full tooling and accessories would show up for about $100. The secret to
find something like that is to keep looking about, to be ready to
stumble across one.
Unfortunately, the Uni's have become collector's items and often sell for
more than a new Sherline.

-- Jerry


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - another idea?

Rick C Shoup <Rshoup@...>
 

The nasty problem is that all but the tire is plastic which will deform
with heat or under pressure.
Additionally the center is cast into the tire
and if the rim is forced off the wheel You'll never get it true again.

Regards, Rick Shoup


On Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:37:47 -0500 "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
writes:

Keeping in mind that I have never actually turned down flanges in HO
scale,
I've wondered if the following might also work? Instead of using
the model
motor and siderods to do the turning, remove them, just leaving the
wheelset
(probably just one at a time) in the frame. The wheel could then be
turned
with some sort of motor (electric drill, motor tool, whatever) that
had a
small rubber wheel attached to the shaft. The motor might be hand
held, or
held against the driver via a spring or screw-type adjustment. The
spinning
driver could then have a file and/or abrasive applied to the flange
to
reduce it's height. One might use a lathe-type cutter as described
below,
if very light cuts were made. A DC motor (perhaps from an old
model) could
be easily controlled for speed if it were powerful enough. Not sure
if the
frame should be upside down or right side up. One might apply
notched paper
shims between the inside of the driver and the frame to help keep
grit out
of the bearing. The experience I've had with lathes and drill
presses in
turning wheels (at least in larger scales) is that it is very
difficult to
get them to run true. There always seemed to be a tiny bit of
eccentricity
and wobble if held by the axle, even with careful centering of a
4-jaw
chuck.

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Knowles" <ncstl@mindspring.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


Bob,

So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a
while
for
me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures
I
learned
"way back when", when useful. The problem with "carbide brake
shoes" in
H.O.
scale is the force required of the mechanism to do the work
Secondary
problem is the residue from turning gets in the rather loose
clearances of
siderods/crank pins and wears them out very quickly in the
process. One
must
do one wheel at a time which stresses that particular rod heavily,
too. I
can't imagine this is easy on either the gearboxes or motor
either. A full
size loco on track with wheel turning shoes has some benefits of
scale!

As for re-wheeling, I suppose anything is possible if you want to
do it
badly enough. I would have no trouble "adjusting" the journal
slots to
take
other drivers. I have priced proper, beautiful replacement (scale)
drivers
at $18 and axle from Greenway products (and for other
scratch-building
exercises) and find this prohibitive on my modeling budget. I
really don't
want the drivers any larger, as the 71" is close enough on the
Pacific and
the 54" is just right on the articulated for my purposes. So you
see, I'm
kind of in a quandary. Maybe I should buy one of those cheap
($3-400)
little
Chinese lathes from "Northern" for all the little stuff I often
need to do
on a lathe. Unwheeling and turning seems the best solution for
now.

I agree with you about Riv and their penchant for undersize
drivers...probably has something to do with getting the overall
look to be
right with those large flanges of yesteryear. Certainly not needed
today.
What IS needed is a good source of parts for the steam
freak....this
appears
to be a dieing art, scale and full-size.

Love to hear more of your Large Scale experiences.

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels,
that
could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a
Unimat
lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This
seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in
RMC, dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another
engine,
such
as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from
the
Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has
changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option
would still
be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section),
one reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the
existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size
drivers for
their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a
precision
matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just
apply
thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and
better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick,
but
some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out
of their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist:
just
take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a
carbide
cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light
pressure
with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than
condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive
wheels/axles for
Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the
drivers on an
old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I
turned
the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the
engines
own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it
unuseable.
I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a
lathe to
do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone
else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same
fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a
while
ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method
is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the
raw stub
to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just
running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe
cutter makes
a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that
looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly
convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like
over the
last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first
several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



Keeping the memory of steam alive!
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Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - a warning!

mwbauers
 

Nelson Kennedy wrote:
Hi guys,
The turning down of Rivarossi flanges requires considerable care. The
spokes for the most part are fine and will not stand up to too much
pressure. They have been known to be torn from the rims if one is too
impatient with the process! I think this is less of a risk if the wheels
are turned by the loco's own power which is a lot more limited than that of
even a very small lathe.
I did my first AHM conversion in this fashion. Lots of filings to get into the wrong places and the size of the flange is difficult to control to be uniform.

I moved to a Sherline lathe later and found it to be much better and kinder on the AHM wheels.

I never bothered to make a collar for the wheelsets, I opened the jaws of the head and cut a small shelf, notch, on the inside of the jaws. I place the wheels sets in only snugly, finger tightened, and use a slow speed attachment in normal operation.

This is quite gentle to the plastic centered drivers, since it only takes a couple of seconds to slice off the few thousandths of extra stock on the relatively thin flange. Then I bring in the contour cutter to shape the flange by contacting it for a bit over a second.

A mill/lathe is only worth using in the shop if you think you might try making your own locomotive from one of the great books available on the subject.

For the price of one imported brass locomotive, you can have all the tooling you need to make several models.

It's an potentially expensive tool that can be very helpful, but isn't really needed unless you are certain you want to machine metal now and then. For about $100, you can get a lessor capable lathe that will work great with plastics and the occasional flange reduction.

Older small lathes do turn up at swap meets and the like for quite reasonable prices. It's worth while to look around for one of those until you find one. It used to be that often enough the old Unimats with full tooling and accessories would show up for about $100. The secret to find something like that is to keep looking about, to be ready to stumble across one.

There are a lot of nicely equipped hobby lathes out there that will frequently appear at swaps and online auctions.

I bought a new one with a tax return over 30 years ago, gradually added the milling attachments, and still use the set up today with a new mill now using all the lathe conversion milling gear.

I just might be able to use it for another 20 or so........

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question - a warning!

Nelson Kennedy <nelsonk@...>
 

Hi guys,

The turning down of Rivarossi flanges requires considerable care. The
spokes for the most part are fine and will not stand up to too much
pressure. They have been known to be torn from the rims if one is too
impatient with the process! I think this is less of a risk if the wheels
are turned by the loco's own power which is a lot more limited than that of
even a very small lathe.

I have comparatively recently discovered diamond needle files. They are
brilliant. A bit expensive but they don't seem to clog and certainly speed
up the filing process. Due to their requiring little pressure to work I
think they would be a good choice for flange reduction.

Nelson Kennedy
Christchurch, New Zealand
NZR 0 gauge and H0 Espee at http://downunder.railfan.net
Stuff for 1:32 models at http://ninemill.railfan.net


Rivarossi question - another idea?

Bob Yarger <ryarger@...>
 

Keeping in mind that I have never actually turned down flanges in HO scale,
I've wondered if the following might also work? Instead of using the model
motor and siderods to do the turning, remove them, just leaving the wheelset
(probably just one at a time) in the frame. The wheel could then be turned
with some sort of motor (electric drill, motor tool, whatever) that had a
small rubber wheel attached to the shaft. The motor might be hand held, or
held against the driver via a spring or screw-type adjustment. The spinning
driver could then have a file and/or abrasive applied to the flange to
reduce it's height. One might use a lathe-type cutter as described below,
if very light cuts were made. A DC motor (perhaps from an old model) could
be easily controlled for speed if it were powerful enough. Not sure if the
frame should be upside down or right side up. One might apply notched paper
shims between the inside of the driver and the frame to help keep grit out
of the bearing. The experience I've had with lathes and drill presses in
turning wheels (at least in larger scales) is that it is very difficult to
get them to run true. There always seemed to be a tiny bit of eccentricity
and wobble if held by the axle, even with careful centering of a 4-jaw
chuck.

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Knowles" <ncstl@mindspring.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


Bob,

So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a while
for
me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures I
learned
"way back when", when useful. The problem with "carbide brake shoes" in
H.O.
scale is the force required of the mechanism to do the work Secondary
problem is the residue from turning gets in the rather loose clearances of
siderods/crank pins and wears them out very quickly in the process. One
must
do one wheel at a time which stresses that particular rod heavily, too. I
can't imagine this is easy on either the gearboxes or motor either. A full
size loco on track with wheel turning shoes has some benefits of scale!

As for re-wheeling, I suppose anything is possible if you want to do it
badly enough. I would have no trouble "adjusting" the journal slots to
take
other drivers. I have priced proper, beautiful replacement (scale) drivers
at $18 and axle from Greenway products (and for other scratch-building
exercises) and find this prohibitive on my modeling budget. I really don't
want the drivers any larger, as the 71" is close enough on the Pacific and
the 54" is just right on the articulated for my purposes. So you see, I'm
kind of in a quandary. Maybe I should buy one of those cheap ($3-400)
little
Chinese lathes from "Northern" for all the little stuff I often need to do
on a lathe. Unwheeling and turning seems the best solution for now.

I agree with you about Riv and their penchant for undersize
drivers...probably has something to do with getting the overall look to be
right with those large flanges of yesteryear. Certainly not needed today.
What IS needed is a good source of parts for the steam freak....this
appears
to be a dieing art, scale and full-size.

Love to hear more of your Large Scale experiences.

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that
could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat
lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in RMC, dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another engine,
such
as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from the
Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option would still
be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section), one reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size drivers for
their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a precision
matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just apply
thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick, but
some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out of their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist: just
take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a carbide
cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light pressure
with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles for
Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on an
old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I turned
the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the engines
own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it
unuseable.
I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe to
do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while
ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw stub
to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter makes
a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the
last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question

Tom Knowles <ncstl@...>
 

Bob,

So you're an ol' 1:1 scale model railroader too? It's been quite a while for
me, but I try to apply the prototype rules and certain procedures I learned
"way back when", when useful. The problem with "carbide brake shoes" in H.O.
scale is the force required of the mechanism to do the work Secondary
problem is the residue from turning gets in the rather loose clearances of
siderods/crank pins and wears them out very quickly in the process. One must
do one wheel at a time which stresses that particular rod heavily, too. I
can't imagine this is easy on either the gearboxes or motor either. A full
size loco on track with wheel turning shoes has some benefits of scale!

As for re-wheeling, I suppose anything is possible if you want to do it
badly enough. I would have no trouble "adjusting" the journal slots to take
other drivers. I have priced proper, beautiful replacement (scale) drivers
at $18 and axle from Greenway products (and for other scratch-building
exercises) and find this prohibitive on my modeling budget. I really don't
want the drivers any larger, as the 71" is close enough on the Pacific and
the 54" is just right on the articulated for my purposes. So you see, I'm
kind of in a quandary. Maybe I should buy one of those cheap ($3-400) little
Chinese lathes from "Northern" for all the little stuff I often need to do
on a lathe. Unwheeling and turning seems the best solution for now.

I agree with you about Riv and their penchant for undersize
drivers...probably has something to do with getting the overall look to be
right with those large flanges of yesteryear. Certainly not needed today.
What IS needed is a good source of parts for the steam freak....this appears
to be a dieing art, scale and full-size.

Love to hear more of your Large Scale experiences.

Tom Knowles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yarger" <ryarger@rypn.org>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question


I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that
could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat
lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in RMC, dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another engine, such
as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from the
Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option would still be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section), one reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size drivers for
their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a precision matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just apply
thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick, but some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out of their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist: just take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a carbide cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light pressure
with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles for
Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on an
old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I turned
the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the engines
own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it unuseable.
I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe to
do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while
ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw stub to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter makes a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question

Tom Knowles <ncstl@...>
 

Mike,

That's the best offer I've had all week! Sure, I could figure a way to get
'em to you, getting the time to disassemble both is the problem right now...
maybe an a week or so? Are you sure this is something you want to do? I
really appreciate the offer! That would be a total of 11 axles for me.

I have successfully turned many an AHM freight/passenger wheelset in the
drill press, armed only with files and fine emery but drive wheels are a
problem due to their diameter. I did it the same way you propose, knock the
flange down square to about .030", then apply the rounded AAR flange
profiles front and back. I polish with 600, then 1200 grit emery. each
wheelset takes about 5 min to do.

Some time back, I designed a collet with a deep throat to take AHM drivers
up to Pacific/Hudson size. This collet would clamp the axle and have an
extension of 3/8" drill rod to fit the drill press (or lathe chuck). I never
got around to building it. It has the drawback of what to do with geared
sets, too.

So do you clamp on the driver tread and try to use a miniature live-center
on the unsupported end? (where there is no center drill in the axle!) Or
turn them against the chuck?

Thanks,
Tom Knowles
Winston Salem, NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles for Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on an old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I turned the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the engines own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it unuseable. I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe to do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw stub to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter makes a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



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Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question

Bob Yarger <ryarger@...>
 

I remember a couple of articles related to AHM/Rivarossi wheels, that could
be found today on the MR index of modeling articles.

One, in MR, I think, dealt with turning the flanges down on a Unimat lathe,
with a specially built homemade fixture to hold the axles. This seemed
pretty precision oriented, and easy to fail at. Another, in RMC, dealt
with replacing the undersized wheels with those from another engine, such as
replacing the undersize drivers on the 2-10-2 with those from the Berkshire.
These would fit with the new smaller flanges. As Rivarossi has changed
things somewhat over the years, I'm not sure if this option would still be
available, re: gearing, etc..

In another magazine (perhaps just in the editorials section), one reader
described turning and applying a thin band of metal to the existing
high-flanged tire, to reduce flange height.

It would be best if Rivarossi would just make correct size drivers for their
engines. Manufacturing a true-running drive wheel is a precision matter,
however, and not that easy. It might work if they could just apply thicker
tires to the existing plastic centers, for correct diameters and better
appearance. In some cases, the tires would appear overly-thick, but some
RRs like the Rock Island did exactly that to get more speed out of their
4-8-4s.

Or you could do like we did when I was a hostler and machinist: just take
out the brake shoe and install a wheel-truing shoe with a carbide cutter,
then run the engine back and forth on the track applying light pressure with
the independent until the high flange was down to less than condemning
limits!

Bob Yarger, Editor
Railway Preservation News (free website)
www.rypn.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bauers" <mwbauers55@wi.rr.com>
To: <HOsteam@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [HOsteam] Rivarossi question




Tom Knowles wrote:
Hey, Ya'll'
Does anybody know if the current revision of drive wheels/axles for Riv
engines will retrofit old ones? I wanna change out the drivers on an old
Pacific and a Y6b so they'll operate on code 70. Years ago I turned the
driver's flanges on a Berk using a file, emery paper and the engines own
power. Of course this wore it out so badly as to render it unuseable. I
do
not want to do this with these two engines, nor do I have a lathe to do
them
on. Seems like replacing is the solution, unless someone else has a
bright
idea...
Know of a good way to ship them?

I have a lathe and several AHM engines in need of the same fix. It's
time I did the same with mine, like I did with several quite a while ago.

If you'd like, I could trim yours as well. My favorite method is to
first turn down the flange to height and then re-profile the raw stub to
a contoured shape. [I discovered a long time ago that just running a
powered Dremel cut-off disk into the blank end of a lathe cutter makes a
really nice notch that has a smooth arc on both sides that looks just
perfect for trimming a square profiled flange to a smoothly convex
profile.] I've gotten a lot of use from that finish cutter.

I've sort of gathered a lot of AHM from swaps and the like over the last
few years that need 'the treatment' I gave to my first several. It's
time I got that done.

--
regards,
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



Keeping the memory of steam alive!
Need to unsubscribe? HOsteam-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



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