Affordable is a relative word. A Roco engine can cost up to $250-300. If the
P2K engine is of that level, and if one looks at what P2K has done with the
diesels, the price is at the right level. This is an articulated engine.

Compare this to brass, and you will see that the articulated are much more
expensive than non articulated engines.

I would not compare this to Rivarossi, as much as they improved the running
and mechanism, they are still the old dies, and they are overpriced.

If affordable means $150 or less, then look no further than IHM or Bachmann
(and now Athearn)

Cheers
Leo

From: BillD53A@aol.com

The model is listed in the Walthers catalog, 1 undecorated, 2 ATSF #s nd

2NW

#s... price is $375, and no delivery date given.

From: Brad Bourbina <bbbourbina@netscape.net>

That's well OUT of what I consider the "affordable" range...

Brad Bourbina

I posed a question to the SP list for possible kitbashing of this engine in
something
that SP had. This was the reply, which also touches on the design of this
articulated.

Cheers
Leo

From: thompson@signaturepress.com (Tony Thompson)

Leo Pesce forwarded this:

Apparently Proto 2000 has decided to do a steam engine, in what they call

their "Proto 2000 Heritage Steam Collection". The unit, a 2-8-8-2 is
modeled after the N&W #20xx series of units. Price is in the $375 range.

and asked:

Would this engine, any of its part be a candidate for an easy kitbash to an

SP

articulated.

The actual P2k locomotive is the USRA design, not the N&W per se, as it
was used by a bunch of roads. The P2K versions will have accurate tenders
and applicances to model the individual roads.
But no, it ain't at all close to any SP power.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 http://www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroads and on Western history


----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Miller <atsf@inow.com>
To: <HOsteam@onelist.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Re: [HOsteam] P2K articulated???]

From: "Jon Miller" <atsf@inow.com>

I copied this from the Santa Fe list.

Apparently Proto 2000 has decided to do a steam engine, in what they

call

their "Proto 2000 Heritage Steam Collection". The unit, a 2-8-8-2 is
modeled after the N&W #20xx series of units. ATSF acquired a few of these
during the war and sold them to the Virginian Railway in 1948. ATSF
numbered the units in the 1790-1797 series. P2K will release the unit in
two ATSF numbers, 1790 and 1791 as well at N&W 2011 and 2019 as well as
undec. Price is in the $375 range. These were 20 mph units. They had
good boilers and if ATSF hadn't dieselized, the boilers might have ended

up

on the 3751 class.<<

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax DCC owner, Chief system
NMRA Life member #2623

Keeping the memory of steam alive!

It's also relative to personal budget. I'm aware that an articulated is a tad
more complicated, but I'm disappointed that Life-Like thinks that makes it
worth twice as much. I was hoping for something more in the Athearn,
Bachmann, or IHC range...give them a "run for their money" so to speak. Not
the case. Of course, they will be cheaper than what's in the Walther's
Catalog, but I'd still rather have an offering that didn't require I take out
a small personal loan to buy that isn't brass. Prices in the hobby in a lot
of cases seem to be going one direction...and faster than the space program
too.

Brad Bourbina


Leo Pesce <leo@sco.COM> wrote:
Affordable is a relative word. A Roco engine can cost up to $250-300. If the
P2K engine is of that level, and if one looks at what P2K has done with the
diesels, the price is at the right level. This is an articulated engine.

Compare this to brass, and you will see that the articulated are much more
expensive than non articulated engines.

I would not compare this to Rivarossi, as much as they improved the running
and mechanism, they are still the old dies, and they are overpriced.

If affordable means $150 or less, then look no further than IHM or Bachmann
(and now Athearn)

Cheers
Leo

From: BillD53A@aol.com

The model is listed in the Walthers catalog, 1 undecorated, 2 ATSF #s nd

2NW

#s... price is $375, and no delivery date given.

From: Brad Bourbina <bbbourbina@netscape.net>

That's well OUT of what I consider the "affordable" range...

Brad Bourbina

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keeping the memory of steam alive!

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That's well OUT of what I consider the "affordable" range...

Brad Bourbina


BillD53A@aol.com wrote:
The model is listed in the Walthers catalog, 1 undecorated, 2 ATSF #s nd 2NW
#s... price is $375, and no delivery date given.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keeping the memory of steam alive!

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Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.

I copied this from the Santa Fe list.

Apparently Proto 2000 has decided to do a steam engine, in what they call

their "Proto 2000 Heritage Steam Collection". The unit, a 2-8-8-2 is
modeled after the N&W #20xx series of units. ATSF acquired a few of these
during the war and sold them to the Virginian Railway in 1948. ATSF
numbered the units in the 1790-1797 series. P2K will release the unit in
two ATSF numbers, 1790 and 1791 as well at N&W 2011 and 2019 as well as
undec. Price is in the $375 range. These were 20 mph units. They had
good boilers and if ATSF hadn't dieselized, the boilers might have ended up
on the 3751 class.<<

Jon Miller
AT&SF
For me time has stopped in 1941
Digitrax DCC owner, Chief system
NMRA Life member #2623

The model is listed in the Walthers catalog, 1 undecorated, 2 ATSF #s nd 2NW
#s... price is $375, and no delivery date given.

Hi Ashley and other denizens of the list.

The subject of Harriman engines got discussed on the SMRF list a while
ago. The modeller's of South Eastern lines got a big boost with USRA
types mentioned, and I think that a selection of Harriman types could
be the next logical step. Besides the clearly Harrriman roads, which
in my area of interest were the Central of Georgia and the Illinois
Central, several other lines had Harriman derived engines.

The Harriman Mikado would be a particularly useful choice, though as
time went by these varied in appearance as much as the USRA engines
did. For those with an SP/UP bias these would be sure to be handy
engines.

IIRC you are doing Santa Rosa in the 20's.

All I can offer here is a few ideas that may help.

1. The issue of converting the Bachmann consol is something I have
looked into. As you'll be aware it's an IC engine in most respects,
and I have succesfully converted one to this configuration using an
MDC vanderbilt tender and litlte else except styrene strip sheet and
rod

As such, it's considerably bigger than the Common Standard engines and
this may be a problem - but the IC engines were effectively Harriman
engines on steroids. You'll find some decription of the sort of work
needed to produce the IC version on the MRF archives. They are
searchable and there's a link to them under the mailing list pages at
http://smrf.railfan.net - search on "IC consol" when you get to the
archives.

This sort of conversion would produce a look-alike sort of
engine,though I'm inclined to think that the compomises in size and
therefore appearance may sit a little oddly with the rest of the
layout.

2. MDC do a "Harriman Style" ten-wheeler and Atlantic as well as the
consol. I've not run a ruler over one, so I can't comment on these
models' accuracy or otherwise, but the ten wheeler looks generally
about right, though in need of detailing. The Atlantic looks less
convincing- it really lacks the high stepping look of the original,
though rewheeling it might be the answer here.

I don't have the article on the cxonsol conversion handy, but you
shoulld be able to find the reference from the magazine index at
www.accurail.com - the magazines or photocopies of the article can
generally be obtained fom the publisher, or via the NMRA library.

HTH

Aidrian

There was mention of a Big Boy for the P2K articulated. If I was in
marketing I probably would think about it to be a good seller. But here is
the rub. Rivarossi already has one but not that well done in terms of
quality and lots of them, cheap (well sort of). If you built a really good
one (correct drivers, RP25 wheels, etc.) it would not work for the 18"
radius crowd. You would be in the 28"-30" radius curves. This would limit
sales because the Rivarossi is already out there and your pricing would have
to be higher. What to do.
I would do one that has not been done in plastic before and make it a
good one. Anyone have any ideas for a good articulated, that has not been
done in plastic and in their opinion would be a good seller from the
marketing point of view?

-----original message-----

From: "Walt Gay" <waltrail@erols.com>
Subject: Re: New Products rumour mill

I heard "Big Boy"!??

A "Big Boy". Men <g>. Surely big engines need big layouts, therefore what is
needed are smaller engines, because you need more of them. ;_)

[snip]

From: "Nelson Kennedy" <nelsonk@chch.planet.org.nz>

D&S Hobbies are predicting the announcement of a comprehensive range of new
quality steam locos by the end of October. http://onerrave.com

Put that alongside P2K's statement that they will make a major product
announcement at the Chicago bash in October and imaginations start to work
overtime!

Now, if only they could look at doing some Harriman types instead of yet
more USRA types .... well, I can dream, can't I? At least Harriman types
would be suitable for several roads ...... we'll see.

BTW, does anyone know of a web article telling of how to bash a more or
less acceptable SP C9 from a Spectrum Consolidation?

Harriman types would also be my cup of tea. I'm resigning myself to either
extensive kitbashing, or brass for the locomotive roster I want. though it
has to be said I don't need many locomotives, five all told. These things
are relative, but building five engines is a fairly big undertaking in my
mind.

Let alone of course scratchbuilding all the traction units I want as well.

So is there an article on kitbashing the Spectrum Consolidation into a
Harriman one? Has anyone got a copy of the article about improving the MDC
Consolidation kit?
--
Ashley Rachel Pollard
Ashley@apnix.demon.co.uk
Modelling Santa Rosa sometime this century...

A 2-6-6-6 Allegheney (sp?)! I don't model the C&O, but if they made one you
can BET money I'd have one! What an impressive locomotive!

Brad Bourbina


I would do one that has not been done in plastic before and make it a
good one. Anyone have any ideas for a good articulated, that has not been
done in plastic and in their opinion would be a good seller from the
marketing point of view?



____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.

I heard "Big Boy"!??

D&S Hobbies are predicting the announcement of a comprehensive range of new
quality steam locos by the end of October. http://onerrave.com

Put that alongside P2K's statement that they will make a major product
announcement at the Chicago bash in October and imaginations start to work
overtime!

Now, if only they could look at doing some Harriman types instead of yet
more USRA types .... well, I can dream, can't I? At least Harriman types
would be suitable for several roads ...... we'll see.

BTW, does anyone know of a web article telling of how to bash a more or
less acceptable SP C9 from a Spectrum Consolidation?


Nelson Kennedy
Christchurch, New Zealand
Ferrymead Trams, NZR 0 gauge, a little Espee H0 are at
http://downunder.railfan.net

| Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 08:49:43 -0700
| From: Thomas Beutel <Thomas.Beutel@efi.com>
|Subject: RE: Bachmann mountain
|
|Nelson and Jack,
|
|Another thought to add is that in some cases, you only have one shot
at
|getting a particular loco if it is a limited production run (Proto
2000
|E-6's come to mind - the City of San Francisco models were sold out
in a few
|days). Of course, this certainly was not the case for the Bachmann
model.
|
|As a post script, I did fix the intermittent stall problem without
opening
|up the engine. It turns out that I had not pushed the connector from
the
|tender in all the way... The growling does not make me comfortable,
but it
|is not any worse that any number of brass steam locos that I have.
For me
|the 4-8-2's performance is very good, and I would rank it excellent
if it
|were not for the growling in the reverse direction.
|
|Thomas Beutel
|San Francisco


If anyone caught the comments on the driver size problem with this
model on R.M.S, well it is eminently fixable. I used Alan Gibsons
wheels to rebuild the chassis, though I think Sharman may have wheels
that are an even better match.

Hope this is of interest, the model is now finished in the pre 1934
Southern livery with gold striping and lettering. There are a good few
kitbash possibilities for this model as well, including Southern Ts,
Seabord Ms and possibly CofGa mountains.


|PARTS
|
|I sourced these from Alan Gibson, I haven't found a US distributor
for
|them yet, but at about $US25 +shipping they are easy enough to order
|direct.
|
|Alan Gibson (Workshop) Ltd
|The Bungalow
|Church Rd
|Lingwood
|Norwich
|Norfolk NR13 4TR
|England
|
|Ph/Fax +44 1603 715 862 � between 8am and 6pm UK time only, since it�
s
|his private line as well.
|
|He has a really excellent mail order service � UK delivery is usually
|next day.
|
|Wheels and Crankpins
|
|The wheels are sold as 5�0� types for OO scale, but work out at 68.5�
|in HO. They have a steel rim, so you�ll want to keep them oiled or
|apply gun blue to blacken them. The centres are plastic, which won�t
|be a problem since pick up on the Bachmann chassis is by means of
|wipers bearing on the back. Axles are supplied in two lengths. For HO
|use the shorter axles � the longer ones are for EM gauge. Make sure
|you order the OO/EM wheels otherwise you�ll get P4 wheels, which may
|not run so well on standard HO track, but look real nice. he has a
|range of proto87 components as well.
|
|There are two choices from his range, neither of which is perfect but
|neither is noticeably wrong unless you are a serious rivet counter.
|You�ll need four sets of wheels and one set of crankpins.
|
|Part number G4860E
|
|This is a 16 spoke wheel instead of the 15 spokes which the USRA
|engines had. I used this since the bevelled rim on the 15 spoke
design
|would have been very noticeable with green wheels.
|
|Part number G4860
|
|A 15 spoke design with a bevelled rim. The rim could be filed back if
|you were very keen, but that�s up to you. It probably will not show
|under a coat of weathered black paint anyway.
|
|(Greenway offer 69� drivers in the US. I have not used these, so I
can
|�t comment on their suitability, but they would need to be fitted in
a
|similar way to the Gibson wheels. I understand that they come ready
|quartered and on 3mm axles - they have a website ---
|http://www.greenwayproducts.com/).
|
|Part number G4M42
|
|Crankpin set. Again these are steel, and will need careful handling,
|as some of the parts are very fine. There are spares in the pa
|
|1/8� internal diameter washers will also be required from your local
|supplier.
|
|1/16� and 3/32� o/d brass tube � K&S or similar.
|
|HOW TO DO IT
|
|Stage one involves stripping the engine down to shell and chassis �
|the Bachmann exploded drawing should help here. Undo the screws
|securing the side rods and main rods and the keeper plate that
secures
|the drivers in the frame. They should now drop free.
|
|Strip the chassis as far as it will go to leave the bare die-cast
|frame and the circuit board attached to it.
|
|Wheels and Axles
|
|The Gibson wheels might result in the flanges fouling each other,
|since they are slightly large over the flanges. I found the quickest
|way to deal with this was to mount a wheel in a Dremel tool and touch
|the flange against a sheet of wet and dry - don't get heavy handed or
|the tyre will separate from the centre if you generate too much
|heat.The interference is only in the order of a few thou at most so
it
|won't take long.
|
|There are no balance weights so they are best cut from styrene and
|attached with epoxy, and the space behind them filled with suitable
|filler. The drawings in the Kalmbach Cyclopedia will show what you
|need, watch out for the different size weights on the main drivers.
|
|The worm gear needs to be removed from the Bachmann axles � the
wheels
|twist and pull off and the axle can then be tapped out of the gear
|with a hammer and punch. The centre hole will need to be opened up
|with a reamer to accept the Gibson axles. I used a taper reamer and
|worked from both sides, and was careful to leave the hole a fraction
|under size to provide a secure fit. The gear was secured to one axle
|with a little LocTite, and the wheels were fitted with their
crankpins
|and lightly pressed on � they�ll need to be moved later. Make sure
|that you provide washers behind the leading and driven wheels before
|you press the wheels. This is to take up any sideplay between the
|wheels and the frame � it�s best to do this after you have completed
|the next stage so that the spacers, wheels and frame all match.
|
|Frame.
|
|The Bachmann wheels have 3/32� dia. axles as opposed to the 1/8�
axles
|that Gibson supplies, so the axle slots in the frame need to be
opened
|up. It�s probably easier to get the ultimate level of precision if
you
|have access to a milling machine, but I was able to open them up with
|a round needle file. If this concerns you and you have access to a
|lathe it would be possible to bush the Gibson wheels and retain the
|3/32 axles.
|
|It takes a bit of care to make sure that you remove the same amount
of
|material from the front and rear faces so that the centres remain in
|the same place. You�ll need to check the mesh of the worm and gear
and
|slowly and carefully deepen the axle slot for the driven axle with a
|file in order to get the meshing right. The depths of the other slots
|are less critical, but it needs a little care to get all the wheels
|touching without the frame leaning left or right or perhaps trimming
|up or down by the stern. Placing the model on a sheet of plate glass
|really helps to get this right.
|
|The moulded brake gear needs a little trimming with a file to get
|clearance on the new wheels.
|
|Side Rods and Main Rods.
|
|The Gibson crankpins are smaller than those that Bachmann uses, so
the
|side rods and main rods need bushing with a little brass tube. This
is
|best done using 3/32� tube and the bushes soldered into the rods.
|This kills the blackening unfortunately, but it�s easy enough to
redo,
|or paint them as I did. If you are doing an L&N engine, then this
will
|need I section side rods, and these are available from Gibson as
|�Universal Coupling Rods� , part number G4M92 - you�ll need two sets
|and they�ll need cutting to length.
|
|Quartering.
|
|This alarms some, but it�s pretty easy assuming the axle centres and
|side rods are still at the same spacing.
|
|Set up the axle with the worm gear by eye by twisting the drivers, it
|doesn�t matter whether its 90 degrees or somewhere between 87 or 93 ,
|since you can�t see both sides of the engine at the same time. Take
|the rear drivers, line them up by eye, fit them to the frame, and fit
|the side rods to just these wheels. It is pretty easy to gently tweak
|the wheels backwards and forwards until there is no binding. The
|engine will then run nicely as an 0-4-0. Once it runs as a 0-4-0, fit
|another set of divers and add the side rods to these. Since the
engine
|ran as an 0-4-0, any binding will be in the set that you last fitted.
|When it runs as an 0-6-0, add the last set and repeat the exercise.
|That�s it. If you do get any fractional misalignment it is possible
to
|tweak the holes in the side rods slightly oval to take up a bit of
the
|slack, but it should only be used as a last resort.
|
|Test run the set up extensively before fitting the valve gear. I
find
|it best to add adrop of nail polish to the crankpin nuts to stop them
|unwinding while I�m running it.
|
|When you are happy fully press the wheels home and check the back to
|back.
|
|Valve gear.
|
|Not much to worry about here unless you want to update it to
|Walschaert�s as many lines did. I didn�t, but yet again Gibson has
|some useful components which may prove adaptable.
|
|The real hassle is refitting the eccentric on the new crankpins. I
|made up a new keyed bush for the eccentric from 1/16� and 3/32� brass
|tube, which was tapped 1.0mm/14BA to fit the crankpin.
|
|And that�s about it � any questions let me know.
|
|Aidrian

Hi Thomas,

no, this is the new Athearn Mikado steam engine, just came out on the
market, and announced late last year. This is part of their new Genesis
line.

You can see the engine here: http://www2.athearn.com/athearn/282.html

As for the Model Power Consolidation, I was not aware they went back
to the deep flanges. I need to check it at the store. That was the only
reason for having it above the IHC Mogul.

Cheers
Leo

Hi Leo,

Is this the old-timer Baldwin with the motor in the tender by Fraetschi of
Brazil?

If so, I had the impression that the motor cogged and it had a very high
starting speed. I would rate my IHC Mogul above the Model Power 2-8-0.

By the way, the first 2-8-0's the Model Power put on the market had RP-25
flanges but then it appears they switched to larger flanges. Is that still
the case?

Regards,
Thomas Beutel
San Francisco


Leo writes:

Hello all,

last saturday I finally got a chance to look at the Athearn Mikado.
This gave me a chance to compare it to the Bachman MT.

As soon as I took out the engine from the box, I could tell of the
quality of this offering. Since I did not add the details, I cannot
realy tell the assembled look, but from the star, I was very
impressed.

The opened engine was lettered for the Frisco RR, which I understand
they actually had this type of engine. I did not go and confirm this.

The lettering is crisp, but there is nt much, and I do not know if the
prototype also had very little lettering. Also the black part of the bolier
is
not painted, so there is the plastic shine to contend with. The plastic
itself has very crisp details modelled on.

Overall, it is a very USRA engine.

The running gear is what I was impressed most, much better than the
Bachman. It shows that it came from Samhongsa.

In the back of the engine, there is a very thick cable with a small board
attached to it. It is supposed to be slid into the tender for storage
pupose only. the cable is so thick, it is a bit stiff, and it may lift the
tender off the rails. We did not have curves or switches to test on
(our test track at the store is just a straight section), but I was moving
the end of the engine sideways and the tender went off the rails very
easily. I think some stress relief should be done on this cable to
loosen it up a bit.

Running was very nice, not top notch, but nice. There is no wobble,
the movement is very smooth, but the motor is a bit noisy.

Question: does Athearn put their own motor, or is it coming already
mounted from Samhongsa? It definively does not sound like a can
motor to me. Not having had a chance to open the engine, I cannot
tell you one way or the other.

The engine does have some weight, so it should pull itself and a few
cars up a typical layout grade. Adding a bit in the boiler should
improve things.

Apparently everybody is going with LED lights, and this one is no
different. The light is yellow, and there is no backup light.

We compared the two engines, and they run about the same, it seems
on all the voltage range. This means double-heading is possible with
the two of them together.

Conclusion. I think this is a better engine over the Bachman, but it is
not outstanding. In the "Best of" list, I would put this in place #2,
behind the Bachman Consolidation. It is a long way to the European
counterparts, but this is reflected in the price you pay at the counter.

My "Best of" list for the under $150 new plastic steam engines is:

1- Bachman Consolidation
2- Athearn Mikado
3- Bachman Mountain
4- Model Power Consolidation (anybody remembers this one? Fine runner!)
5- IHC Mogul
6- Bachman GS4 new generation
7- the rest: IHC and Bachman, engines used for parts only

Cheers
Leo

Nelson and Jack,

Another thought to add is that in some cases, you only have one shot at
getting a particular loco if it is a limited production run (Proto 2000
E-6's come to mind - the City of San Francisco models were sold out in a few
days). Of course, this certainly was not the case for the Bachmann model.

As a post script, I did fix the intermittent stall problem without opening
up the engine. It turns out that I had not pushed the connector from the
tender in all the way... The growling does not make me comfortable, but it
is not any worse that any number of brass steam locos that I have. For me
the 4-8-2's performance is very good, and I would rank it excellent if it
were not for the growling in the reverse direction.

Thomas Beutel
San Francisco

From: Jack Wilson <jackwils@cableone.net>

Am I missing something here?

I always figured if something is not right out of the box, return it.

I'm no particular Bachman fan, but if we do not return things and let

them know

when we aren't happy with the product, then shame on us!

I'm not sure it is as black and white as that. I agree with your sentiment
and we should certainly tell our suppliers/manufacturers if things are not
right. In practical terms it is not just as simple as that for some of us.
If I buy a product which is not quite right, and have waited 6 to 8 weeks
for a slow boat to get it to me from the US, then I am not likely to be
very happy about sending it back and waiting for it to do a round trip that
might take another three months if there os a known quick fix that I can do
myself. For me, in a comparatively isolated place, where I often have to
buy sight unseen, the 'net has proven to be a boon for the exchange of
helpful information about products and their strengths and weaknesses. I
say 'keep the information coming' *and* tell your supplier/manufacturer if
something is not right.


Nelson Kennedy
Christchurch, New Zealand.
Ferrymead Trams, NZR 0 gauge trains and a little Espee in H0 are at
http://downunder.railfan.net

Am I missing something here?

I always figured if something is not right out of the box, return it.

I'm no particular Bachman fan, but if we do not return things and let them know
when we aren't happy with the product, then shame on us!
==
Thomas Beutel wrote:

From: Thomas Beutel <Thomas.Beutel@efi.com> {snip}

the running characteristics are not what I hoped. Going forward
it growls slightly, and in reverse it growls loudly. Well at least
it wasn't the other way around! Since I will be running it forward, mostly,
I think I can live with it

The problem that I'm seeing is that the engine stalls frequently. The
strange part is that when it stalls, it is still in electrical contact. The
headlight and the firebox are lit, just brighter. What gives? I suspect that
there is either a loose connector to the motor, or the motor has a bad brush.
I guess I'll have to open it up.{snip}

Thomas Beutel

--
Jack Wilson
Prescott, AZ

Hi All,

I just received my version in Southern Pacific yesterday. The engine
does look great, although a bit small for SP. I'm toying with the idea
of adding a skyline casing to turn it into a 7/8-length MT class engine. ;-)

Anyway, the running characteristics are not what I hoped. Going forward
it growls slightly, and in reverse it growls loudly. Well at least
it wasn't the other way around! Since I will be running it forward, mostly,
I think I can live with it.

The problem that I'm seeing is that the engine stalls frequently. The
strange
part is that when it stalls, it is still in electrical contact. The
headlight
and the firebox are lit, just brighter. What gives? I suspect that there is
either a loose connector to the motor, or the motor has a bad brush.
I guess I'll have to open it up.

By the way, I'm not convinced that the new drive mechanism is any better
than just having a normal gear tower. Historically, Bachmann sure has gone
to great lengths to design weird drive trains. Even Rivarossi did better
when
they redesigned drive trains on their articulateds. Why does
Bachmann continue to buck conventional wisdom?

Thomas Beutel
San Francisco
Redwoods and Pacific RR
http://www.io.com/~fano2472/rprrhome.html