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Tiller Bolt Location in Rudder Cheek
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Can someone kindly provide the measurements to locate the bolt hole? Horizontally from the straight surface facing forward and vertically from the top of the cheek. I am rebuilding from scratch and do not have a template for reference. Many thanks. Tom Hull 147 |
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Scott
Tom,
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I will be at my boat later today and can provide those measurements, but I would think it best to see if a greater sample size yields the same measurements. There were MANY changes over the years of production, and as I am learning from working on a friend’s Flicka only a few hull numbers prior to mine, some significant variance from boat to boat even if same vintage! Best, Scott #392 (1990) On Aug 23, 2022, at 7:27 AM, kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...> wrote:
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Thanks Scott, much appreciated. Understand about variations over the years. Referencing photos by the previous owner I can see where it is relative to the top portion of the cheek. I have a rough idea but do not want to drill without more input...especially after all the work and expense to get here.
Best, Tom |
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gabriel warren
Tom— From my ’84 Flicka, #275:
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From top of bronze flatbar on top of rudder, where it is straight and not curved down and aft, to C/L of tiller bolt: 3-7/8” Perpendicular from straight forward edge of rudder to C/L of tiller bolt: 4-1/2”. I hope this is what you want and that it helps. Gabriel
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Scott
Hi Tom,
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Using a combination square for consistency as shown in photos, I came up with the following: 4-23/32” aft from leading/forward edge of teak rudder cheek (checked both sides) to center of bolt hole. See photo below 4-3/32” down from top of bronze rudder head to center of bolt hole. See photo below. The leading edge of my teak rudder cheeks (factory in 1990) are set back (aft) exactly 1/4” from the forwardmost apex of the leading edge of the fiberglass rudder. I also inserted the 3/8” bolt and measured from the bottom of bolt to the top of the fiberglass rudder (again, at apex, as it has some crown) and get 21/32” (which would put center of tight holes at 27/32” above *crown* of fiberglass rudder). Measurements in 32nds of an inch are perhaps a bit silly here, as that much teak could have easily been sanded away over the years, but I figure more rather than less accuracy is better! Scott On Aug 23, 2022, at 11:28 AM, kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...> wrote:
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Jim Hooker
I wouldn’t depend on pacific seacraft always drilling all those holes on a fixed template. I would bolt the top casting in place and then clamp the undrilled assembly onto the rudder. Take off one side and drill the opposite side through the rudder, re assemble then take off the drilled side and drill the other. That is the only way to be sure the holes line up through. Otherwise I would take a tracing of the rudder and use it as a template. Good luck Jim Hooker sv Niamh #278 Detroit On Aug 23, 2022, at 10:27 AM, kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...> wrote:
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mftf47@...
I have my old cheeks here so I measured them the same way Scott measured his for comparison.
Marc   |
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Antonio Martinez
This ;-) On Aug 23, 2022, at 7:29 PM, Jim Hooker <jahooker@...> wrote:
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Exactly the process I am doing. Some of the rudder holes are slightly angled as well so field location is only way to accommodate that. Using a 7/16" bit to provide a bit of wiggle room for the rudder bolts. The top casting and tiller bolt holes will be 3/8".
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Excllent and exacting Marc. I hope you can get the marker off your ruler! Many thanks for your effort.
Best, Tom |
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Scott - very helpful and exacting as well, very helpful. I add my envy for your brass cap. Mine appears to be cast aluminum. Your photos also answered a question I had regarding replacing the flat nuts with acorn nuts. That is an upgrade I am going to do after seeing yours. Appreciate your prompt input.
Best, Tom |
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Gabriel - Much appreciated input as your boat is close in age to mine. So, in '84 they were using a bronze cap. Wonder why not in '82?
Best, Tom |
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This is why our Group is so special. A call for assistance and prompt top-notch input. One couldn't ask for any better responses and within 32's of an inch to boot! I will drill with confidence tomorrow...many thanks to all.
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Morris London
The bronze rudder cap was technically an option, as were bronze versions of the anchor roller, anchor rode hausepipe, and head pump-out fitting. At least that's how it was in late '82 when we ordered Golden Crown. Because we were intending to live aboard
and cruise her, and would obviously be good ambassadors for PS and the Flicaka, Henry kindly gifted us those bronze parts. I think most boats have the bronze rudder cap, based on the Flickabase images, but another metal would also be "factory original".
Morris London
Golden Crown, '83 #242
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2022 11:26 PM To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Tiller Bolt Location in Rudder Cheek Gabriel - Much appreciated input as your boat is close in age to mine. So, in '84 they were using a bronze cap. Wonder why not in '82?
Best, Tom |
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Morris London
Tom,
While the measurements you've been supplied by the commenters here can be an excellent guide, I would suggest that custom fitting your parts to each other would be the way to get the best results. When I replaced my rudder cheeks I did the following:
For the tiller to be able to be lifted upward you'll need to round the bottom of the aft end of the tiller to form a quarter circle around the bolt hole.
MLL
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2022 11:35 PM To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Tiller Bolt Location in Rudder Cheek This is why our Group is so special. A call for assistance and prompt top-notch input. One couldn't ask for any better responses and within 32's of an inch to boot! I will drill with confidence tomorrow...many thanks to all.
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Thanks Morris - very good tips. I have been field fitting and tinkering all along and was planning to check my tentative location before drilling today. Pulled out the tiller this morning to check its dimensions and hole location. Like the suggestion to make markings on the backside of the cheek. Going at it slowly and triple checking. Plan to replace the tiller eventually so further coordinating with the new dimensions. Mine measures 1 3/4" high while the new one is 2". Need to plan for a tad of space below to clear the rudder top. Mine has the rounded bottom you mention and having the tiller capable of being lifted upward is essential based on my experience when single handling. More flexibility the better. Again, much appreciated.
Best, Tom |
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Ready for final finish. West Systems on backside and within bolt holes. Wanted to share as many of you helped me get here! Wood is Orange Osage.
Much appreciated. Tom Hull 147 
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Antonio Martinez
Beautiful. And it should last a lifetime! a Ready for final finish. West Systems on backside and within bolt holes. Wanted to share as many of you helped me get here! Wood is Orange Osage. |
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