Leaking scuppers


norcalsyncro
 

Looks like its time to replace the seam caulking in the scuppers, I know a few people have had to tackle that job already, I'm curious what the caulk of choice is, 4200, 4000UV, life caulk? I searched the archives, but couldn't find any real recommendations. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Duncan
s/v Pingouin #431


edhunnicutt254
 

Duncan,
Four months ago I repaired a leaking scupper on my boat and did not have another leak during the Florida daily summer rains. After cleaning out all of the old caulk, I used butyl tape purchased at a RV dealer. I rolled the flat tape into balls then elongated and stuffed each of them into the crevice and used a dowel to pack them tightly. Smooth finish with no mess to clean and best of all no leaks.
 
Ed
sv/Laughing Dolphin  #218


norcalsyncro
 

 Ed,

I hadn't even considered butyl tape, thanks for the info.

Cheers,
Duncan
s/v Pingouin #431


---In Flicka20@..., <EdHunnicut@...> wrote:

Duncan,
Four months ago I repaired a leaking scupper on my boat and did not have another leak during the Florida daily summer rains. After cleaning out all of the old caulk, I used butyl tape purchased at a RV dealer. I rolled the flat tape into balls then elongated and stuffed each of them into the crevice and used a dowel to pack them tightly. Smooth finish with no mess to clean and best of all no leaks.
 
Ed
sv/Laughing Dolphin  #218


Brad Simeon <simeon.brad@...>
 

OceanCraft Sailboats would recommend using 3M 4200 Fast Cure.
If someone is interested in butyl bedding:
We have two full boxes.  If someone would like to buy these 2 boxes,
total of 4 rolls, 30' each roll, = 120' of 3/8" diameter "butyl bedding" coils, we will sell them for $12.00/box, $24.00 for all, plus shipping.
Please send interest to info@... or respond to me thro. this Flicka site.
Hope OceanCraft Sailboats can help you with your Flicka needs.
The new owners of the PSC Flicka and Orion molds.
Cheers ~ Amy
252-617-2763



On Tuesday, November 5, 2013 11:15 AM, "Norcalsyncro@..." <Norcalsyncro@...> wrote:
 
 Ed,
I hadn't even considered butyl tape, thanks for the info.

Cheers,
Duncan
s/v Pingouin #431


---In Flicka20@..., wrote:

Duncan,
Four months ago I repaired a leaking scupper on my boat and did not have another leak during the Florida daily summer rains. After cleaning out all of the old caulk, I used butyl tape purchased at a RV dealer. I rolled the flat tape into balls then elongated and stuffed each of them into the crevice and used a dowel to pack them tightly. Smooth finish with no mess to clean and best of all no leaks.
 
Ed
sv/Laughing Dolphin  #218



Daryl Clark
 

 I have used the 3M 4200 Fast Cure for other calking needs on my Flicka. It works very well and cleans up fairly easily with a product our Marina supplies called RELEASE that is citrus bases - it also works! I used the 3M 4200 to install the Beckson water tank inspection ports and to install deck glands this past summer for mast lighting and wind speed indicators.

 

Daryl

S/Y Ballo Liscio - Flicka 433

On Tuesday, November 5, 2013 11:15 AM, "Norcalsyncro@..." <Norcalsyncro@...> wrote:
 
 Ed,
I hadn't even considered butyl tape, thanks for the info.

Cheers,
Duncan
s/v Pingouin #431


---In Flicka20@..., <EdHunnicut@...> wrote:

Duncan,
Four months ago I repaired a leaking scupper on my boat and did not have another leak during the Florida daily summer rains. After cleaning out all of the old caulk, I used butyl tape purchased at a RV dealer. I rolled the flat tape into balls then elongated and stuffed each of them into the crevice and used a dowel to pack them tightly. Smooth finish with no mess to clean and best of all no leaks.
 
Ed
sv/Laughing Dolphin  #218



randy.richardson52
 

Both the port and starboard scuppers were leaking when I bought Zanzibar. I scrapped out as much of the old caulk as I could and re-caulked the scuppers with Boat Life. That was 4 years ago- the scuppers haven't leaked since and the caulk still looks like the day I put it on. 

On Tuesday, November 5, 2013 11:15 AM, "Norcalsyncro@..." <Norcalsyncro@...> wrote:
 
 Ed,
I hadn't even considered butyl tape, thanks for the info.

Cheers,
Duncan
s/v Pingouin #431


---In Flicka20@..., <EdHunnicut@...> wrote:

Duncan,
Four months ago I repaired a leaking scupper on my boat and did not have another leak during the Florida daily summer rains. After cleaning out all of the old caulk, I used butyl tape purchased at a RV dealer. I rolled the flat tape into balls then elongated and stuffed each of them into the crevice and used a dowel to pack them tightly. Smooth finish with no mess to clean and best of all no leaks.
 
Ed
sv/Laughing Dolphin  #218



norcalsyncro
 

 Well, I dug out all the old caulk, taped the area off, and re-caulked with 4200 fast cure, now she's tight as a drum. I think the scuppers had been letting in small amounts of water for quite awhile before there was any sign of water intrusion in the cabin, and the plywood headliner panels had been absorbing it, hiding the problem until the plywood needed replacement.

Duncan
s/v Pingouin 431


Antonio Martinez
 

I know this is an old topic, but I want to make sure I understand:  are the scuppers being discussed, the ones at aft end of gunwale near front of cockpit area?  We have an annoying leak on one side and I've been chasing it in the toerail screws and genoa track bolts.  Now wondering if its the sealant (??) i see between topdeck and hull molding where they join in scupper.  Current plan (?) is to dremel out (small grinding ball) a 1/4" or so deep (from interior of cabin), and 4200 that seam.

Suggestions or critique???
thx
a


Antonio Martinez
 

Here is the original thread I was referencing/questioning...

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 11:52 AM Antonio Martinez via groups.io <middleriverstudio=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I know this is an old topic, but I want to make sure I understand:  are the scuppers being discussed, the ones at aft end of gunwale near front of cockpit area?  We have an annoying leak on one side and I've been chasing it in the toerail screws and genoa track bolts.  Now wondering if its the sealant (??) i see between topdeck and hull molding where they join in scupper.  Current plan (?) is to dremel out (small grinding ball) a 1/4" or so deep (from interior of cabin), and 4200 that seam.

Suggestions or critique???
thx
a


Laurence Holden
 

I have only recently had the same problem on my 1978,  except on scuppers near aft end of cabin, where hull meets deck joint. The sealant there very crumbly. I Dremmelled out there a small depression and filled with 5200 sealant, bur haven’t had it in the water yet to see if that works. If hull/ deck sealant is crumbling away there it worries about the whole seam.

Laurence Holden
Info on my art: Drawing From Our Own True Nature:


Antonio Martinez
 

Laurence, when you say sealant crumbly, exactly where is that? Viewed from inside quarter berth where moulded-in scupper dips down.  Or from exterior below the toe rail?

On Jun 23, 2022, at 12:30 PM, Laurence Holden <art.laurence.holden@...> wrote:

I have only recently had the same problem on my 1978,  except on scuppers near aft end of cabin, where hull meets deck joint. The sealant there very crumbly. I Dremmelled out there a small depression and filled with 5200 sealant, bur haven’t had it in the water yet to see if that works. If hull/ deck sealant is crumbling away there it worries about the whole seam.

Laurence Holden
Info on my art: Drawing From Our Own True Nature:


Joe Collins
 

It’s the Genoa track - I was told to remove the track  - clean out the holes well and reseat them all with a top grade sealant. Very annoying. I have the last Flicka made hull number 434 - made in 1998. I love the boat. The previous owner lost the boarding ladder. Any idea where I can pick up an original replacement? 


On Jun 23, 2022, at 12:30 PM, Laurence Holden <art.laurence.holden@...> wrote:

I have only recently had the same problem on my 1978,  except on scuppers near aft end of cabin, where hull meets deck joint. The sealant there very crumbly. I Dremmelled out there a small depression and filled with 5200 sealant, bur haven’t had it in the water yet to see if that works. If hull/ deck sealant is crumbling away there it worries about the whole seam.

Laurence Holden
Info on my art: Drawing From Our Own True Nature:


Laurence Holden
 

I saw the leak inside coming down the carpeted hull and when i looked outside it seemed obvious it  was coming from where the scuppers meet the deck and digging at that seam with a thin screw driver out came crumbly sealant.


Antonio Martinez
 

Thx Laurence…. Mine looks ok and track bolts are suspect but will examine closely this weekend.

On Jun 23, 2022, at 10:09 PM, Laurence Holden <art.laurence.holden@...> wrote:

I saw the leak inside coming down the carpeted hull and when i looked outside it seemed obvious it  was coming from where the scuppers meet the deck and digging at that seam with a thin screw driver out came crumbly sealant.


Morris London
 

I had a leak there as well.  That portion of the hull-deck joint is not covered by the black aluminum strip, toe rail, or teak coaming, whichever you have.  Whatever covers the joint simply continues across the deck drain at the same level as the "bulwarks", sort of like a bridge.  So, the sealant is exposed to sunlight and weather.  Even 5200, which I believe is what's used in the H-D joint, deteriorates in sun and weather.  So, finding degraded sealant there is not necessarily an indication that the entire joint is filled with failed sealant.  The fact that it's a common leak point (i.e. this string), and that the sealant you can see that oozed out of the joint from inboard is still pliable, are indications of this.  All the foredeck, side deck and cabin roof drainage flowing over that spot is why it leaks there when the sealant degrades.

I taped over the exposed sealant with Gorilla Tape a couple years ago (intended as a very temporary fix, but......) and it's been dry ever since.  


Morris London
Golden Crown, 242


From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Laurence Holden <art.laurence.holden@...>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 10:09 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Leaking scuppers
 
I saw the leak inside coming down the carpeted hull and when i looked outside it seemed obvious it  was coming from where the scuppers meet the deck and digging at that seam with a thin screw driver out came crumbly sealant.


Nick D
 

Not sure why but this is a common leak point and has been discussed for many years. Probably the only leak anyone has ever had.  


Chuck Garrett
 

I had a long discussion about this with Ted Trimmer 20 years ago.  It seems that Pacific Seacraft over tightened the hill to deck joint thus causing this leak. While the fix is straight forward, loosening the joint around the scuppers, injecting sealant, then tightening; it certainly isn’t easy. 


On Jun 24, 2022, at 3:59 PM, Nick D <sailvela@...> wrote:


Not sure why but this is a common leak point and has been discussed for many years. Probably the only leak anyone has ever had.  


Antonio Martinez
 

There are a couple of hazardous locations.  At boat now.  Next week I’ll post some pics.

On Jun 24, 2022, at 4:59 PM, Nick D <sailvela@...> wrote:


Not sure why but this is a common leak point and has been discussed for many years. Probably the only leak anyone has ever had.  


William Huesmann
 

Sorry if I am late to the party on this. I had a very similar experience with three of the four scuppers on MorningStar. On the Dana, there is an outside trim piece in the shape of a "U" that covers that area or perhaps just dresses it up. In any case, at the hull to deck joint there in the actual scupper it is not fiberglassed over but filled where the two pieces meet with some sealant which eventually dries out. What I did with MorningStar was clean it up with the 220 sandpaper then filled the area with marine tex and sanded it smooth again. I ensured that some marine tex squeezed in to  the very minute crack so it had some backing on the other side. I then sanded it smooth, painted it with interlux brightsides then replace the trim rings using Sicaflex as a sealant on the screws. I haven't had a leak since. What drove me crazy, however, was when water leaked in there, it dripped down on a wiring harness that ran forward and slightly downhill. That put the drip on the inside two feet from the actual leak -- which was maddening.   Six years later, and no leaks.

Bill Huesmann
S/V MORNING STAR (Dana 139)
Gulf Shores, AL

“Much as I love sailing, I'm not all that interested in going off sailing 'round the world --- tho there's those who certainly wish I would." <W. Huesmann>

On Jun 23, 2022, at 11:55, Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...> wrote:


Laurence, when you say sealant crumbly, exactly where is that? Viewed from inside quarter berth where moulded-in scupper dips down.  Or from exterior below the toe rail?

On Jun 23, 2022, at 12:30 PM, Laurence Holden <art.laurence.holden@...> wrote:

I have only recently had the same problem on my 1978,  except on scuppers near aft end of cabin, where hull meets deck joint. The sealant there very crumbly. I Dremmelled out there a small depression and filled with 5200 sealant, bur haven’t had it in the water yet to see if that works. If hull/ deck sealant is crumbling away there it worries about the whole seam.

Laurence Holden
Info on my art: Drawing From Our Own True Nature:

--
Bill Huesmann
MORNING STAR (Dana 139)
Gulf Shores, AL


Nick D
 

The scupper leak is more of a design and production problem. Other  leaks in the arch are maintenance and installation problems.