I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.

I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.

Very interesting indeed.  Maybe it is the compressive forces.  What year is your boat Matt?

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

 

no depression in mine

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>

Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: Flicka20@groups.io

Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours.  That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue.  I just recently  sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.

a

s/v Miracle

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:

I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.

no depression in mine

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>

Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: Flicka20@groups.io

Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours.  That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue.  I just recently  sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.

a

s/v Miracle

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:

I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.

no depression in mine

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>

Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: Flicka20@groups.io

Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours.  That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue.  I just recently  sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.

a

s/v Miracle

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:

I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

---

From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.

Yesterday I picked up my new mast electric wire, 16/3 bilge pump wire, it's super heavy duty and round in shape. Fits perfectly through the 3/8" size water tight deck fitting that looks the same as the chrome one in the picture. I have a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere that will serve as the disconnect for the mast light wire and as far as the vhf goes, I will just use the standard union above deck.

Because the rig will be dropped every year I am not worried about the above deck connections, they will be cleaned and greased frequently. I did not want exposed cables in the cabin or the associated sub-panel to make the nesacary connections. 

This discussion has convinced me to re-bed the mast tabernacle plate!

Matt

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>

Date: 5/5/20 5:20 AM (GMT-05:00)

To: Flicka20@groups.io

Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

Matt,

Can you tell us what type of connector is on the right in photo - looks like a threaded bulkhead power or VHF connector.

I have not decided how to make the connection or what type of glands to use.  Thinking I'll wait till mast is back up so I can mock up some ideas.

s/v Miracle

#165 1980

On Mon, May 4, 2020 at 5:21 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

no depression in mine

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>

Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: Flicka20@groups.io

Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro

Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours.  That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue.  I just recently  sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.

a

s/v Miracle

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:

I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going.  I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model.  The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:

1.  I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig.  The hinge itself is about 1 ¹/₈ inch in height.  However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 ¹/₄ or 1 ³/₈ inch.  I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat.  If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 ¹/₄ to 1 ³/₈ inch.
2. My mast is raked at the 1 ³/₄ degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat.  If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit.  An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about ³/₈ inch less clearance at the boom end.
3. I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
4. My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch.  At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole.  The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves.  If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly.  This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much.  If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole.  You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly.  If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
5. I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings.  The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
6. My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional ¹/₄" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.

With all that in mind,  I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 ³/₈ inches.  This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle.  The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.

Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch.  I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 ⁷/₈ inches.  If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be ¹/₄" greater (after correcting for the hinge!).  Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.

That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight.  But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.

Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now.  If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.

Hope this helps.

Morris London

"Golden Crown"

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From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro

 

I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine.  My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots.  The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir.  I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way.  I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south.  Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her.  The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult.  That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom.  It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon.  Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing.  Thanks for any help.
Tim S.