Birth of a bowsprit


David Shook
 

Matt Corwin of our group made this awesome bowsprit for me.. it’s as easy as this hahaha


Antonio Martinez
 

Looks great!
My only addition is that I would recommend more than just washers at the bolts.  Even with teak one seen compression.  I didn’t like the square corners on our factory one and made a thicker rounded ss plate when I made our sprit.


On May 24, 2021, at 9:36 AM, David Shook <dasf@...> wrote:

Matt Corwin of our group made this awesome bowsprit for me.. it’s as easy as this hahaha
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David Shook
 

I agree 100%.. but making one of those is way beyond me... 


Antonio Martinez
 


You can buy the strip of steel in 24” length.  SS not that hard to work if you go slow and keep spritzing with water.  
Of course a machine shop would make quick work out of it but typically 75$ or so an hour.
I also also made plates for underside.  You have to curve them slightly on a vise and the forward most bolt I could only fit a washer.

While I was at it I made a stout tab to secure the anchor line.




On May 24, 2021, at 11:20 AM, David Shook <dasf@...> wrote:

I agree 100%.. but making one of those is way beyond me... 


David Shook
 

YHANK YOU


Scott
 

Nice work!

What species did you go with?  Type of glue?

Best,
Scott
#392


On May 24, 2021, at 9:25 AM, David Shook <dasf@...> wrote:

YHANK YOU


David Shook
 

All questions and or information/orders should go thru the amazing carpenter who made it.. MATT CORWIN


Matt Corwin
 

Teak & epoxy



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Scott via groups.io" <wilsometer@...>
Date: 5/24/21 2:15 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Birth of a bowsprit

Nice work!

What species did you go with?  Type of glue?

Best,
Scott
#392


On May 24, 2021, at 9:25 AM, David Shook <dasf@...> wrote:

YHANK YOU


Steve
 

Wow. Very good work


On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 8:46 AM, Antonio Martinez
<middleriverstudio@...> wrote:
Looks great!
My only addition is that I would recommend more than just washers at the bolts.  Even with teak one seen compression.  I didn’t like the square corners on our factory one and made a thicker rounded ss plate when I made our sprit.


On May 24, 2021, at 9:36 AM, David Shook <dasf@...> wrote:

Matt Corwin of our group made this awesome bowsprit for me.. it’s as easy as this hahaha
<94BB1943-F7AC-4897-A184-EDC07659933E.jpeg>
<882FB2B9-3DC6-4264-AEE3-40D83C1003A2.jpeg>
<5C7BBC8E-D117-45C1-9A54-B1C48EEC4284.jpeg>
<FFE76343-8CFA-42E5-8E8B-DAFACD9B9BFD.jpeg>
<F2B3F0C7-AC59-4D3D-BDD3-D8E62BDCB01A.jpeg>
<3872B882-6A8D-44F5-8F02-9E9B604B6891.jpeg>
<0B88B93D-EA75-4546-ADED-33971C6674A9.jpeg>
<84434D46-7ABD-4392-AC6B-8324A53E8956.jpeg>
<B3F65689-68C6-4104-9D05-A12A618886D9.jpeg>
<CEA1DEDC-7D0D-4C41-B6D8-7239E030F0F9.jpeg>


kocarc@...
 

Beautiful work. Congrats! I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Found a young and talented boatwright in Philadelphia who did a very nice job as well. My need now for the install is the distance from the tip of the bow to the tip of the sprit in order to drill the anchor holes in the correct location. Also, how did you drill the holes on an angle as my bolts are not straight up?

Thanks,
Tom Kocubinski
Chestertown, MD


Antonio Martinez
 

This is what was on our Flicka when we purchased it.  I don't know whether it was original. It was either made inaccurately or it had shrunk to a trapezoidal shape in section.  I.e. the sides were not 90deg to each other.  Not a huge amount but it made the side platforms not horizontal and it drove me crazy.
So, on ours, the back of the cranse iron was 2'-5.75" from the bow.  Note that its very important - if replicating a sprit - that you match the length to existing and that the angle of the sprit not change.  If not, your rigging lengths will change.

Note that I have no idea whether this is a correct bowsprit as designed by Bingham (!).  I'd love someone with drawing to post a photo of his layout :-)

image.png







On Thu, Jun 3, 2021 at 6:46 PM kocarc via groups.io <kocarc=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Beautiful work. Congrats! I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Found a young and talented boatwright in Philadelphia who did a very nice job as well. My need now for the install is the distance from the tip of the bow to the tip of the sprit in order to drill the anchor holes in the correct location. Also, how did you drill the holes on an angle as my bolts are not straight up?

Thanks,
Tom Kocubinski
Chestertown, MD


Matt Corwin
 

Yes, the measurement from the shoulder of the cranse-iron, where it bears upon the bowsprit to the first, second and third bolt holes in the sprit must be exactly matched to the original geometry.
The bottom of the sprit is straight and the bolts come at 90deg up through bottom but the top is tapered on mine witch I am fairly sure is original to the boats design.
Before constructing a new bowsprit it is crucial that the existing sprit is observed mounted and fully rigged so determinations can be made to keep or alter the dimensions. 
When the sprit is removed it is also time to repair the bolt holes in the deck if needed. Pacific Seacraft did not do a good job of reinforcing those holes on most of the boats, no backing plates etc. On my boat the forward-most hole was badly worn oversize. 
Carriage bolts from the top, bronze if you can find them is a good upgrade. Mine had all thread rod and you know that is not strong in terms of shear strength because there is no shoulder to the bolt so skinnier in diameter for the same bolt size.
I have many pictures of the full construction of a Flicka sprit that I can send once I get my phone organized. 

Matt



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 6/4/21 5:41 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Birth of a bowsprit

This is what was on our Flicka when we purchased it.  I don't know whether it was original. It was either made inaccurately or it had shrunk to a trapezoidal shape in section.  I.e. the sides were not 90deg to each other.  Not a huge amount but it made the side platforms not horizontal and it drove me crazy.
So, on ours, the back of the cranse iron was 2'-5.75" from the bow.  Note that its very important - if replicating a sprit - that you match the length to existing and that the angle of the sprit not change.  If not, your rigging lengths will change.

Note that I have no idea whether this is a correct bowsprit as designed by Bingham (!).  I'd love someone with drawing to post a photo of his layout :-)








On Thu, Jun 3, 2021 at 6:46 PM kocarc via groups.io <kocarc=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Beautiful work. Congrats! I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Found a young and talented boatwright in Philadelphia who did a very nice job as well. My need now for the install is the distance from the tip of the bow to the tip of the sprit in order to drill the anchor holes in the correct location. Also, how did you drill the holes on an angle as my bolts are not straight up?

Thanks,
Tom Kocubinski
Chestertown, MD


Morris London
 

Tom Davison posted this factory drawing about 9 months ago.  The bowsprit conversation has been popular for quite a while.

Mine (factory original) is similar to what Matt describes below.  It is tapered, vertically, on only one side.  However on mine the taper is on the bottom.  The laminations are full thickness on the top 3 of 5 layers, and the taper is taken out of the bottom 2 as you near the FWD end.  I've also attached a photo of mine, which is now finished in a polyurethane spar varnish, having had the original gel coat sanded off (what hadn't already chipped off).  If you enlarge it and look closely you can see that the bottom most lamination is very thin even at the butt end.  It disappears due to the taper about where the second bolt is.  From that point forward the taper continues into the 4th layer.  At the nose you can see that the 4th layer is notably thinner than the top 3.  As Matt describes, the holes are perpendicular to the bottom surface, which makes them also perpendicular to the deck.  So from the building point of view, taper first, lay the bottom on the table of the drill press and drill vertically.

It tapers evenly from both sides going forward.

My platform sides are not as shown in the drawing, they do not taper from one end to the other.  And, the holes are drilled perpendicular to the edges of the platform.  They were obviously drilled in the platforms separately from the spar.  This means that due to the taper of the bowsprit the two platforms are not parallel to each other, nor are the holes in line with each other or the holes in the bowsprit.  The all-thread actually has to bend slightly forward on each side to get the platforms up tight against the side of the spar.  A little persuasion from a rubber mallet also helps.  The holes in the spar are perpendicular to the axis of the bowsprit, so they need to be drilled prior to tapering the spar. 

Slightly different than Matt's boat, mine has a backing plate under the aft two mounting "bolts" (also all-thread).  It doesn't extend to the FWD bolt because in that area, very close to the hull joint, the deck is not cored and so there's a "step" between the first two bolts.  I did add a fender washer there a couple years ago for at least a bit of backing.  Fortunately the stiffness of the spar and the plate on the top of it managed to protect that hole from being worn out of size all these years.  My next plan there is to build that up with some material to the same level as the cored portion of the deck, and then put a backing plate that spans all 3 bolts.

MLL




From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram@...>
Sent: Friday, June 4, 2021 8:53 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Birth of a bowsprit
 
Yes, the measurement from the shoulder of the cranse-iron, where it bears upon the bowsprit to the first, second and third bolt holes in the sprit must be exactly matched to the original geometry.
The bottom of the sprit is straight and the bolts come at 90deg up through bottom but the top is tapered on mine witch I am fairly sure is original to the boats design.
Before constructing a new bowsprit it is crucial that the existing sprit is observed mounted and fully rigged so determinations can be made to keep or alter the dimensions. 
When the sprit is removed it is also time to repair the bolt holes in the deck if needed. Pacific Seacraft did not do a good job of reinforcing those holes on most of the boats, no backing plates etc. On my boat the forward-most hole was badly worn oversize. 
Carriage bolts from the top, bronze if you can find them is a good upgrade. Mine had all thread rod and you know that is not strong in terms of shear strength because there is no shoulder to the bolt so skinnier in diameter for the same bolt size.
I have many pictures of the full construction of a Flicka sprit that I can send once I get my phone organized. 

Matt



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 6/4/21 5:41 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Birth of a bowsprit

This is what was on our Flicka when we purchased it.  I don't know whether it was original. It was either made inaccurately or it had shrunk to a trapezoidal shape in section.  I.e. the sides were not 90deg to each other.  Not a huge amount but it made the side platforms not horizontal and it drove me crazy.
So, on ours, the back of the cranse iron was 2'-5.75" from the bow.  Note that its very important - if replicating a sprit - that you match the length to existing and that the angle of the sprit not change.  If not, your rigging lengths will change.

Note that I have no idea whether this is a correct bowsprit as designed by Bingham (!).  I'd love someone with drawing to post a photo of his layout :-)








On Thu, Jun 3, 2021 at 6:46 PM kocarc via groups.io <kocarc=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Beautiful work. Congrats! I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Found a young and talented boatwright in Philadelphia who did a very nice job as well. My need now for the install is the distance from the tip of the bow to the tip of the sprit in order to drill the anchor holes in the correct location. Also, how did you drill the holes on an angle as my bolts are not straight up?

Thanks,
Tom Kocubinski
Chestertown, MD


ruffolino2003
 

Hey Matt....Just rejoining this forum after a long absence....My teak bowsprit has finally failed me...seems rotted and in need of replacement...I am reading the thread and see that you've built a beautiful one..Is that something
you do for a living? I'm in need of a master craftsman !  Thanks...Eugene