Profurl C260 or C290 for sv Dulcinea, #302 #advice
Thanks Russel for your input. I have decided on the Furlex 50S after speaking with several of my modern sail rigging friends. I am not too worried about the lack of turnbuckle adjustment on the forestay as the backstay bridle with turnbuckle will supply ample force to brig the spar back in column after fitting the furler.
-- Fair leads, Jamie White www.thesquarerigger.com |
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Thanks for your insights Antonio.
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This might be a bit of overkill, but I have had really good luck with the Schaefer SnapFurl CF700 unit. It uses the existing headstay without cutting and is rated generally for boats 24-28 feet in length. I installed this on my Flicka in 2008 and it has
never had any issues whatsoever.....the jib unfurls and furls flawlessly and never any jamming or mechanical problems. I have trailer sailed my boat in Mexico, USA and Canada and raised/lowered the mast several times without damage to the furler.
Good luck with your project whichever unit you ultimately buy!
Steve Smith
1985 PSC Flicka #304
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Daryl Clark <dlclark@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2022 5:58 AM To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Profurl C260 or C290 for sv Dulcinea, #302 Also, if you do go Profurl, don’t go low on sail loading calculation. Get the proper size for the boat…
On most furling system manufacturers the lower load models also don’t support the pin and wire size diameters…. Do your load calculations for squall conditions: sudden down bursts - once got caught with a squall that came from behind me on Lake Superior; felt the breeze pick up on the back of my neck; clouds were racing across the lake about 100 foot off the deck, got the mainsail secured and the boat on autopilot, but was just rolling up the headsail when 60 knot gusts rolled past me. Daryl -- Daryl Clark S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 # 54 Formerly s/y Flicka 433 - Ballo Liscio S/Y Jackito - Dana 222 |
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Also, if you do go Profurl, don’t go low on sail loading calculation. Get the proper size for the boat…
On most furling system manufacturers the lower load models also don’t support the pin and wire size diameters…. Do your load calculations for squall conditions: sudden down bursts - once got caught with a squall that came from behind me on Lake Superior; felt the breeze pick up on the back of my neck; clouds were racing across the lake about 100 foot off the deck, got the mainsail secured and the boat on autopilot, but was just rolling up the headsail when 60 knot gusts rolled past me. Daryl -- Daryl Clark S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 # 54 Formerly s/y Flicka 433 - Ballo Liscio S/Y Jackito - Dana 222 |
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I looked at the Furlex 50S but decided against it since it did not incorporate a turnbuckle in the installation. I have since decided to replace my old Mariner furler with a Harken Ocean Unit 0. I am purchasing a complete package from Sailing Services which includes in addition to the furling unit a new head stay, turnbuckle, eye/jaw toggle. Everything you need.
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A bit me re expensive. Russell s/v Wren #089 On Oct 8, 2022, at 5:18 PM, Jamie White <jamie@...> wrote:
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After further research, I’ve decided to fit either a Furlex 50S or Furlex 104S roller furler to s/v Dulcinea (#302). A couple of years ago I renewed my 1x19 standing rig with New England Ropes STS-HSR Heat-Set Dyneema (see page 48 Flicka Friends September 2020 Vol. 71). Since I need to replace the Dyneema headstay with stainless 1x19 and the Furlex 50S or Furlex 104S roller furlers come with a new 1x19 headstay, I’ve decided to fit one of these to s/v Dulcinea. The Selden Furlex units come with a stanchion furling line block and furling line combined with a new forestay and free shipping it appears a simple choice. What are recommendations for fitting a 50S or 104S Furlex roller furler? The 50S is a couple hundred dollars less expensive and appears to be stout enough for a 6,000 displacement Flicka 20. -- Fair leads,Jamie White www.thesquarerigger.com |
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Thanks Daryl for your comment...definitely going to consider a 110 or 115% jib.
-- Fair leads, Jamie White www.thesquarerigger.com |
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thanks Jay for your insights. I can certainly see the logic of a 115% tri-cut radial jib.
-- Fair leads, Jamie White www.thesquarerigger.com |
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Jay Cushman
Three years ago we sold our Flicka, and bought a larger boat, a Cape Dory 27. Sadly, this summer we concluded that we’re no longer able to be active sailors, and sold the CD. Now, we’re mulling a transition to power. That said, I want to second Daryl’s observation that smaller is better. In order to reduce weather helm, I had a 100% tri-radial built to replace a 115%, after reading of another CD-27 owner’s success in reducing the size of his foresail. The effect on BRAVO was striking; she sailed flatter and tacking was easier. You may wish to experiment with the location of your sheet blocks; with a working jib, sheets would presumably be led through hardware on your coach roof rather than those on your working decks or your toe rails. Fair winds, Jay Cushman Ex REDUX, Flicka #156 Ex BRAVO, CD 27, #269 On Oct 7, 2022, at 10:24, Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...> wrote:
-- SV REDUX #156 Swan’s Island, ME |
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Antonio Martinez
On Fri, Oct 7, 2022 at 9:40 AM Daryl Clark <dlclark@...> wrote: Although it may seem that a 130% Genoa would perform better in light air; I found the 110 % Yankee cut to actually perform better in all conditions on the Flicka ( same with the Dana and now with my PSC 31). Funny you should say this... our sailmaker opined the same and we found the 110 to outperform the big genny we had. The problem with the latter was that it was very *heavy* (good for coastal/offshore sailing perhaps) and when you most needed a big sail (low wind) it would just hang there. The smaller sail performs better across the entire spectrum (4-20+ kts). It's a radial cut from a higher/lighter performance cloth.
Excellent observations. Agree 100%!
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Although it may seem that a 130% Genoa would perform better in light air; I found the 110 % Yankee cut to actually perform better in all conditions on the Flicka ( same with the Dana and now with my PSC 31).
The two sails get cut quite differently and the 110% always balanced better with the mainsail and reefed better when the winds piped up! This is sailing on Lake Superior in winds from 5 to 40 knots… The most important choice today on furler selection is actually who supports them in your sailing area! Harken is probably one of the best supported in the USA. Certainly here in the Midwest. They are a USA company and we’re original equipment out of PSC in California (as well as their deck gear on the later models Ballo Liscio was a 1997). There are two versions of the Harken Unit 0 to choose from : one is the MKIV , the other is the Ocean /Cruising series - two quite different pieces of equipment. The MKIV has independent drum and head swivel units - designed to yield a better airfoil shape when furling. To most it seems the only difference between units is the single verses double luff slot and quite a large price difference. I recently upgraded to the Harken MKIV UNIT 1 furler on my PSC 31 - it was completed in about 7 hours with assistance of crew. Instructions and foil length calculations were spot on - abd I had never installed one before. Daryl s/y Intuition PSC 31 #54 Formerly Ballo Liscio - Flicka #433 and Jackito Dana #222 -- Daryl Clark S/Y Intuition - PSC 31 # 54 Formerly s/y Flicka 433 - Ballo Liscio S/Y Jackito - Dana 222 |
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Antonio Martinez
Our new jib (this past year) is a 110 tri-radial and we're very happy with the 'set'. Great sail. For years we had hank-on on a little Montgomery 15 and used it not infrequently in 'sporting' conditions. But the idea of having to go back to hank-on with the Flicka has no appeal. On the Chesapeake Bay the weather can, and does, change quickly at times and it's fantastic to be able to just dial-in the right amount of jib or reef main from cockpit. Sail center-of-effort is not ideal when jibs are reefed and a true storm sail would be better in extreme conditions, but just dialing in a little jib reefing can turn an unpleasant sail into a well planted cruise. Good luck with your purchase! a Thank you Priscilla for your informed and detailed response. I am leaning towards a 130 tri-cut for the same reasons you mentioned. Dulcinea’s current sail inventory is the same one that Hal DeVaney had for the boat and are all hanked on headsails. I definitely will go with a foam luff to maintain sail shape as I often reef the main and reduce headsail area sailing in San Francisco Bay. I intend on some extended coastwise passages where shortening sail forward is much easier accomplished by roller in the headsail instead of dousing and set a smaller one. |
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Thank you Priscilla for your informed and detailed response. I am leaning towards a 130 tri-cut for the same reasons you mentioned. Dulcinea’s current sail inventory is the same one that Hal DeVaney had for the boat and are all hanked on headsails. I definitely will go with a foam luff to maintain sail shape as I often reef the main and reduce headsail area sailing in San Francisco Bay. I intend on some extended coastwise passages where shortening sail forward is much easier accomplished by roller in the headsail instead of dousing and set a smaller one.
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Priscilla Wheatley
I installed a Profurl but it was probably 25 years ago. It was easier to put together than other makes. The model was RC-25. If the mast was down, you could remove the stay and assemble on land. |
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I’ve decided to look into fitting a roller furling unit on sv Dulcinea, #302, and have decided on going with a Profurl unit. Speaking with the factory rep this morning, I was informed the Profurl C260 would work - but would be approaching the suggested limit with a 135% jib. The Profurl C290 is much stouter, but much more expensive. I would like to fit the Profurl C260 unit and use the savings to help offset the purchase of a new jib with a foam luff. What are folks’ opinions who have used the Profurl C260 or C290? Any thoughts will be most welcome. -- Fair leads,Jamie White www.thesquarerigger.com |
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